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Old Nov 17, 2011, 07:49 PM
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Its me again I found the fotos from before all ready scanned so here ya go Enjoy
also when you get to the square holes I made mine with a sodding iron and a rectangle piece of K&s metal worked great just burn thru practice on some scrap and you will be good to go
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 07:51 PM
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And a few more
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 07:53 PM
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Thank's!!! That was fast, forget about my PM.

Is\was this one yours or Skips?
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 08:49 PM
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This is Skips, But mine looks almost the same
I used the fotos of his to build mine. I looked for documentation on the sub but found just a few blury fotos so Skips became my bible. Look at the deck I made mine out of the evergreen scribed plastic, and it makes for a great looking deck
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 09:57 PM
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Instructions

Adding instructions if anyone wants to follow along.
Due to the file size limit I had to break them up into smaller files.
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Last edited by ken_nj; Nov 18, 2011 at 07:23 PM.
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Old Nov 17, 2011, 10:19 PM
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Instructions page 4 & 5

The ballast tank is mounted and holes were drilled through the pressure hull using the ballast tank holes as guides.
WARNING... AS YOU DRILL HOLES, THE DRILL BIT WANTS TO PULL ITS WAY THROUGH THE PLASTIC SO BE CAUTIOUS WHEN DRILLING. Not so much with smaller bits like 1/8".

The instructions say to add the TEE in the ballast tank first then the brass tube in the center. It would be easier to add the brass tube, apply CA around the brass tube, then insert the TEE. Have to fix the kink in the tube before the tank is sealed, another day for that.

As some things have been waiting for glue, silicone or cement to dry, I have been jumping ahead to other assemblies that do not rely on each other.
- I trimmed and sanded the tail cone to the correct size. I need to open up the push rod holes before I glue the tail cone together, not really though.
- And I soldered the capacitors and wires to the motor and siliconed the pad to the bottom of the motor.

Although some things can be tedious, I'm having a blast building this boat. I don't want to stop, but I have to.
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Last edited by ken_nj; Nov 18, 2011 at 07:24 PM.
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Old Nov 18, 2011, 11:12 AM
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Question about the 1/8 x 1 inch tube for the propel backup going into the bottom of the pressure hull. The instructions on page 5 say to insert the tube in the 1/8 hole, but it does not say how much to leave sticking out. In the picture at the bottom of page 4, I suspect it's about 1/4 inch.
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Old Nov 18, 2011, 06:44 PM
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Never built an r/c sub before, but I have seen a spring pushed into a soft hose to prevent it from collapsing under vacuum. Even a spring slide over the outside would prevent the kink, just like the brass tubing benders from K&S. Just a thought.
And nice subject, by the way. I have always liked the subs from that era.

Dave
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Old Nov 18, 2011, 07:14 PM
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Me neither, I usually hang out in the Docktalk and Scale Boat forums. I was thinking some sort of styrene strap on the outside, or something like you mentioned. I have time as I'm not sealing up the tank yet. I prefer WWII era subs myself, but I am thrilled with the size of this one and it is not that complicated.
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Old Nov 18, 2011, 07:18 PM
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I think If I remember right I cut my tube and inserted a piece of K&S tubing that I bent using a tubing bender. Put a nice curve in it, and hooked the two pieces back together
worked like a charm and I was not worried about having a kink anymore
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Old Nov 18, 2011, 10:42 PM
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Instructions page 6

Uh-oh, I did not follow page 6 one hundred percent! Instead of holding the upper bulkheads in place, I used a nut on the thumbscrews and some clamps. That was my only deviation. No big deal.

Pictures and captions tell the story...

It seems the UPH is shifted slightly astern since the center bulkhead is coming in contact with the ballast tank. The motor\ballast tank assembly is in the correct position. The only way I see to correct this is to shift the thumbscrew holes a bit, but sometimes you cannot foresee what will happen. Moving those holes would have to have been figured out before drilling them. Also would have been difficult to know how much to move them. Unless I did something else wrong.
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Old Nov 19, 2011, 01:52 PM
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Instructions page 8 & 9

For now I am going to skip page 7 as I want to work on some hull sections. As I need to use each section, that is when I trim each piece. Each item has a ridge inside that you sand down until that ridge just disappears. I started with the lower hull and later did the upper hull.

First I used a band saw to trim excess plastic down to the top edge of the ridge on the entire perimeter of the hull. I then used coarse sandpaper to remove any plastic flashing on the inside and outside edges. Using an indelible black magic marker, I carefully ran the edge of the marker along the ridge to highlight this ridge. Using a coarse sanding drum on my drill press I ground down the hull edge until 1/4 to 1/2 of the ridge remained. I also ground down the bow and stern sections so that they are below the final location of the hull edge. This was done to prevent chatter during the next step.

With a full sheet of coarse sandpaper on a flat work surface, take the inverted hull and sand the hull edges until the black section of that ridge disappears. Check the inside edges frequently. You may have to favor pressure on one side over the other in order to get everything even. Using long strokes back and forth worked very well. You will also need to remove plastic flashing that is created on the edges with some sandpaper to see how close you are getting for that ridge to disappear. As you are getting close to being done, place the inverted hull on a flat surface. The hull edges should come in contact with the work surface. You can place the hull over a small flashlight and check for clearance. Once the edges look good, run the inverted hull on a medium or fine grade sandpaper to give the edge a nice clean surface. Then use a small piece of medium or fine sandpaper and remove the flashing from the edges.

I cut the rear section off where the tail cone will attach, highlighted the ridge, used the sanding drum to remove most of the ridge. I then made the sanding block in the picture below to sand the tail cone surface to a 90 degree angle to the hull edge. With the inverted hull on a flat surface, the sanding block worked well sanding down and removing that ridge. Used medium sanding paper to cleanup.

Now I have to return to page 8 and finish up on the tail cone assembly. I like the fact that I can actually mate the tail cone by hand to the hull to see how well it will fit. AND, had to clean up the mess of all the statically charged plastic all over the place. Sanding the two hull sections and the tail cone area took me about 3 hours to do.

But first, a late lunch. Until next time.
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Old Nov 19, 2011, 08:39 PM
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Instructions page 8

Page 8 is done. Started on page 9, but only glued the tabs on the lower hull section for the tail cone assembly. You can see the tabs added in one of the photos below.

Letting the photos and captions describe the details. I sanded the entire tail cone exterior and each of the control surfaces in preparation for painting. Figured it would be easier before all the parts were assembled.
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Last edited by ken_nj; Nov 21, 2011 at 02:43 AM.
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Old Nov 19, 2011, 08:55 PM
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Wow Ken, your workin' fast you must want to get it in the water soon.
I remember when I did mine, I though how ugly the tail part looked after doing all the modern streemlined subs, but it looked right at home once attached to the rest of the hull, and really made the boat look good.
Do you have all your electronics? and ready to install?
Good work, don't go too fast study those inst.
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Old Nov 19, 2011, 09:40 PM
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It will be a long time before getting into the water as we are just going into winter. Maybe the bathtub as a test. I'm use to scratch-building which takes forever to actually make every part.The construction process seems pretty easy with a kit. I have the radio, that's it. I need to buy the batteries, RS-5, APC-4 or UPC-1, Failsafe and the propel or whatever is needed for the Failsafe. Plus I have things I will be doing that I cannot divulge just yet.
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