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Old Jun 21, 2012, 06:10 AM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Australia
Joined Mar 2006
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No the wood blocks have been fitted inside the stabs in some, and in the elevator in others, solid strip in one side or the other, and the slots for the hinges have been cut in a position that misses the wood blocks completely which exacerbates the issue of the stab. Its also not stiff enough and the tips being wider than the root causes all these mistakes to add up and induce failure.

That said there are Snipers flying without issue, whether these guys figured out the hinge issue or not, changed hinges, changed LE and TE materials, fact remains they are flying and flying well from the videos.

And just to reitterate my views as I dont want to see another flame war in here; Personally I think HET needed to change the design back in the old sniper, I have posted up ideas for a new stab in here, many pictures, and I am not defending the current stab at all, I refuse to sell any snipers until things are sorted.
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Old Jun 21, 2012, 06:48 AM
Lee Liddle
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Carrollton, Tx
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lojik View Post
Didn't want to stir any s%^t in the thread sorry

I was just saying what I was told, we have allot of snipers in AU flying, some have the elevator flutter, some don't, the supposed reason was pre-drilled hinge holes missing the mounting blocks
Sorry, nothing against you Mate. I'm just an unsatisfied victim of Sniper flutter

Just once would like to hear some straight talk from HET. Like that's ever going to happen.
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Old Jun 21, 2012, 08:33 AM
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United States, FL, Coral Springs
Joined Jan 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRCJA View Post
@falconjet50, man that Bird came out really nice, I am going to have to step it up a notch. Are those eflite retracts? What struts did you use?

@Scalefan. Hey AL, I got sidetracked on my build and just glued in the rudder and put in some lightning holes in the wings and rudder.

Ralph
Yes they are the Eflite retracts with Tamjet upgraded trenion and trail-n-link gear. I upgraded them my self with his instruction manual. They are very nice and buying from him was great. He actually answered the phone when I called to ask questions about the upgrade. He said the gear is good up to 11Lbs with the upgrade. Gear doors where made from some heavy duty plastic. They where spacers for a drawer I bought for my RC truck parts.
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Old Jun 21, 2012, 04:33 PM
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Κύπρος, Λευκωσία, Πέρα Χωριό
Joined Jan 2010
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You xan check rc lander full metal retracts at hobbyking. They will handle the plane just fine. Thereare also available as retracts only without struts...
In the new items there are also some new ones with 4mm pins and metal trunion..
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Old Jun 21, 2012, 11:42 PM
wannabe Jet guy
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Green Valley, AZ
Joined Aug 2004
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Wings Man

@Lojik, I don't know what would give you that Idea, I am working on the Sniper XL right now, oohh look shiny. OK, I am also finishing my C-17, Mirage, making missile rails for the F-16 and last but not least making a new canopy/cockpit for my Bobcat 50, so this week, I've had my hands on 5 planes so far. Got to keep it interesting.

I am working on the wings tonight, I can't stress enough, how much time you will save yourself by pulling the cables though the wings before you glue the wings together. I always keep a Ny-Rod around to fish cables out, I used it this time to put in the three extensions on the wing and two air lines. (Two servos per wing, one for the lights. One air line for retracts (air up, Spring Down) and one airline in case I add brakes). It was a warm day so at 8PM it still registered 106 and the Garage about 10 degrees hotter, the one thing I notice is that I used the 24 hour Aeropoxy on the wings and it was starting to harden up in about 30-40 minutes, the heat activated the glue a lot faster. I used the 30 minute Aeropoxy and added a former in the forward part of the fuselage so that I could put in a pin/dowel to also hold the wing in place.

Ralph
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Old Jun 22, 2012, 12:16 AM
Team EJF >>>WHOOSH>>>
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Preeeetty sure I mentioned pulling all your cables through in one of my earlier posts... nobody pays attention these days

Also recommend you glass the Center Section of the Wing... you know... knowing how you fly...

Vic
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Old Jun 22, 2012, 12:39 AM
wannabe Jet guy
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Green Valley, AZ
Joined Aug 2004
2,010 Posts
Yep

Vic,

I don't doubt you mention pulling the cables to save time, but this thread is 104 pages long and I rather build the plane my way then search all the pages. I am not glassing the wings since I am sticking to the 8S set up for now, if I decide to go ballistic, then I will glass it later, right now I am just trying to finish the plane.

Ralph

Quote:
Originally Posted by AceMigKiller View Post
Preeeetty sure I mentioned pulling all your cables through in one of my earlier posts... nobody pays attention these days

Also recommend you glass the Center Section of the Wing... you know... knowing how you fly...

Vic
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Old Jun 22, 2012, 03:43 AM
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Australia, NSW, Hillsborough
Joined Feb 2008
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Acemigkiller

Hi Ace
Would you mind telling me your flight times you and corsairnut ,are getting on your respective setups(from your video on pge 69) please?
Thanks
Steve
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Old Jun 22, 2012, 04:46 AM
DELTAS RULE
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tehachapi, CA
Joined Jan 2006
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5-6 min depending on how i fly, and that leaves a 20% backup in the packs for a extra go around if needed
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Old Jun 22, 2012, 02:06 PM
wannabe Jet guy
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Green Valley, AZ
Joined Aug 2004
2,010 Posts
Sniper XL Drawing

Vic,

Do you have the drawing of the Sniper XL, in all white? I saw before that you had posted one with the Blue for your paint scheme and now that I want to add some decals to my plane, I can plan better if I had the drawing.

Thanks

Ralph
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 04:25 AM
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Australia, NSW, Hillsborough
Joined Feb 2008
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Originally Posted by corsair nut View Post
5-6 min depending on how i fly, and that leaves a 20% backup in the packs for a extra go around if needed
Thanks Brent.
So do you reakon i could get 3 mins WOT using 4500mah 8s, Jetfan 90, with HET 700-68-1500?
Steve
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 05:57 AM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Australia
Joined Mar 2006
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Just work out the maths, divide the WOT amp draw by the pack size, then divide 60 by that figure.

So 87 amps running 5000mah packs = 3.43 minutes. Thats 3 mins and barely reserve for one mistake.

Using 4500mah packs will give you 3mins exactly, which means 2.5mins plus a little reserve.
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 05:39 PM
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Australia, NSW, Hillsborough
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Extreme_RC View Post
Just work out the maths, divide the WOT amp draw by the pack size, then divide 60 by that figure.

So 87 amps running 5000mah packs = 3.43 minutes. Thats 3 mins and barely reserve for one mistake.

Using 4500mah packs will give you 3mins exactly, which means 2.5mins plus a little reserve.
Thanks Mark
But can you just expand on that, for i am still learning.Should i be calculating the run time on 80% of capacity,and not 100%.
ie 5000mah x 80% = 4000mah,so 87amps @WOT=2.75 minutes ??
and for 4500mah pack-x 80%=3600mah @WOT=2.48 minutes?
If that is the case, i think the 5000 packs would be the minimum.
I think i will have to forget about the 4500 pack i already have,and go bigger.
Thanks
Steve
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 07:28 PM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Australia
Joined Mar 2006
11,716 Posts
Yeah thats a good way to work it as you ideally dont want to be running your packs past 90% anyway regardless they are singles or in series.

80% means you have a margin for landing and a slow circuit if some issue arises on the field. You dont want to get caught out with an expensive composite model!
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Old Jun 24, 2012, 07:35 PM
Lee Liddle
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Carrollton, Tx
Joined Dec 2006
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If someone`s in the way you can always chop the power and call "Dead Stick", but then if you abort you might get some dirty looks. LOL
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