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View Poll Results: How much foam do you consume?
1 bundle or less per year 83 33.88%
1-2 bundles per year 98 40.00%
2-6 bundles per year 42 17.14%
1-2 bundles per month 7 2.86%
2-4 bundles per month 4 1.63%
4 or more bundles per month 11 4.49%
Voters: 245. You may not vote on this poll

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Old Sep 04, 2012, 02:43 AM
Registered User
NorCal
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by A Useless Geek View Post
Don't forget to use an atomizer and spritz on a dampening of some very flammable denatured alcohol before joining the pieces together.
I hadn't heard of that, what does it do?
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 05:16 AM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
dz1sfb's Avatar
Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
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Depronicus,
RJK is right on. Clamping is key, and less glue is more. Time for round 2.

Ken
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 05:18 AM
Slipping the Surly Bonds
dz1sfb's Avatar
Attica, MI
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheAeronut View Post
Weight is great, but vacuum bag is the ultimate. I have bagged balsa sheeting on many foam cores, both white EPS 1Lb and blue extruded from 15psi to 60psi using elmers and Gorilla Glue. Polyurethane glue works great in bags just as long as you make sure that there is enough moisture to catalyze the glue. Vacuum bagging is pretty easy once you have the equipment and can apply low to high pressure ofer the entire surface to insure an excellent bond.

Just sharing an alternative that has yet to be mentioned...

J.P.
J.P.,
Would you recommend some equipment here? I would be interested in exploring this option.

Thank you,
Ken
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 07:45 AM
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Is there an MSDS sheet available for the foam board. Has anyone tried laser cutting it?
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 10:33 AM
Altitude is my friend...
Depronicus's Avatar
Southern California
Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dz1sfb View Post
...RJK is right on. Clamping is key...
Yeah, I'm afraid so. I was trying to see if you could get away without it. Apparently not.
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 03:36 PM
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NorCal
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jolijar View Post
Is there an MSDS sheet available for the foam board. Has anyone tried laser cutting it?
GLM cuts it with a laser.
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 08:48 PM
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Joined Mar 2012
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Wow, only three sheets left in my box. This stuff is awesome!
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 08:51 PM
treefinder
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SE MI
Joined Oct 2004
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Go Jim! You've been busy!
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Old Sep 04, 2012, 11:30 PM
just Some Useless Geek
Chicagoland
Joined Oct 2008
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Raften, an atomizer is a sprayer that produces a really fine mist instead of a wetting spray. Expensive women's perfume used to be sold with atomizers so as to put a very fine mist of scent down. I found some atomizer spray bottles at a science surplus joint near me and I use them for water, denatured alcohol, and CA accelerator. It's really nice to be able to use just a touch of alcohol on glue joints or surfaces so that I can move the parts around after they're joined.
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 02:27 AM
12th Pursuit Squadron
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Garland, Tx.
Joined Mar 2002
1,111 Posts
Ken, I wish that I could give you specific recommendations for the two big items, but I cannot. The vacuum pump is mostly a matter of what you can find for a price that you are willing to oay. Make sure that it is one that is happy to run continuously for 12-24 hours. I bought my vacuum regulator eight or nine years ago and do not remember where it came from.

The bagging material I use is four or six mil polyethylene drop cloth from Home Despot or Lowes. I seal the bags with cheap caulk or plumbers putty. The Plumbers putty is reusable, the caulk is cheap and easy. My breather material is paper towels and I use a loop of cotton or nylon cord around the perimeter to help make sure that no part of the bag gets isolated and lacks proper vacuum. I never settled on any particular release/bleeder layer, but one of my favorite ideas is to take really thin two mil or less polyethylene drop cloth and perforate it with a Woodpecker perforating tool for sheeting under iron on covering. You might also use a dressmakers wheel for this. As you may already know, almost nothing will stick to polyethylene plastic. PU and Epoxy both peel off easily and cleanly.

You can also buy any of the supplies from CSTsales.com or AircraftSpruce.com...

J.P.
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 02:32 AM
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NorCal
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Thanks Geek, I don't have a atomizer but do have a air brush and think that might do the job. I hadn't learned of spraying alcohol and am interested in trying it. Wondering if you have tried the spray on contact type glue. Sure would be good to have a bit of time to get things aligned just right before pressing down. Denatured alcohol is the same as what I get for medical use? I have lots of methanol around but I am guessing that would melt the foam.
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 05:12 AM
Old age is not for sissies
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Dayton Intl, Ohio, United States
Joined Jan 2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Depronicus View Post
The Elmer's/MPF laminating experiment has failed. I just tested the bond and the sheets can be pulled apart without all that much effort. Yes, the glue is completely dry.
OK, I've never tried this on foam but since you already have scrap with dried glue, why not. Dried Elmer"s can be bonded with heat. Back in the last century when I actually built with the stuff that comes from trees It was a quick and easy trick to attach cap strips to ribs. Just play with the heat to see if you can get it hot enough to bond the glue without affecting the foam.

Azarr
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 10:56 AM
Altitude is my friend...
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Southern California
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Azarr View Post
...scrap with dried glue...
Actually, it isn't scrap. The kid-stuff Elmer's bonded so poorly that I can pretty much rub it off the MPF with my bare hand. I pulled the two sheets apart with ease, and with zero damage to the foam.

I'll try again with other glues, using these pieces over again.
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Old Sep 05, 2012, 01:57 PM
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United States, CA, Torrance
Joined Apr 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Depronicus View Post
Actually, it isn't scrap. The kid-stuff Elmer's bonded so poorly that I can pretty much rub it off the MPF with my bare hand. I pulled the two sheets apart with ease, and with zero damage to the foam.

I'll try again with other glues, using these pieces over again.
You may want to try WBPU. That's what I used so far for big flat surface bonding and it seems to work really well. Granted I don't have as much experience as others here and have not tried on full sheets, but for smaller pieces it works great so far.

I use Gorilla Glue white for joints which is stronger than the foam and the reasoning is since GG is so good and is polyurethane glue after all, why not WB polyurethane for the rest of it too. I use the spray can, but I figure brushing it liquid would work too. And WBPU can also be used to finish the plane after painting.

I haven't checked the can or the MSDS, so I don't know how toxic or not it is. YMMV
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Old Sep 06, 2012, 10:48 AM
Altitude is my friend...
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Southern California
Joined May 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Michael V View Post
...I haven't checked the can or the MSDS...
Here's a "technical data sheet" for Minwax WBPU. It isn't all that bad, and there's no mention of flammability, of course:

http://www.paintdocs.com/webmsds/web...prodno=1631647

Point is, I wouldn't have a problem recommending it in a build thread, like I would with a toxic witch's brew like 3M77. I'll try WBPU soon.
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