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That looks great !

I will expect Vids and Specs ...

Cuz I have had nothing but tough luck attempting to DO EDFs on this type of foamy.

Bob

The Elmer's/MPF laminating experiment has failed. I just tested the bond and the sheets can be pulled apart without all that much effort. Yes, the glue is completely dry.

Will somebody please tell me why standard Elmer's worked so remarkably well on Depron, and not worth a damn on MPF? How much different can the materials be?

I went back and checked the Depron blocks I made, and I can't get the two layers to even begin to separate. They're permanently fused together, period.

The MPF sheets, on the other hand, will be easy to completely pull apart. Again, what in the world is going on here? Why the drastically different results?

Mike, why are you so desperately attempting to shove a square peg into a round hole? If the Elmer's that you have used bonds well with Depron but not with Adams then use it on Depron, but not on Adams. Simple. There are many, many, many adhesives that have been mentioned in this thread that do bond well with Adams, so how about trying some of those? The difference in cost can't really be all that much unless this is a production ARF line you are trying to support. Even I'm not doing that.

Originally Posted by A Useless Geek

...There are many, many, many adhesives that have been mentioned in this thread that do bond well with Adams, so how about trying some of those?...

Oh, I will now. I'll test several. I really want to stay away from the toxic stuff, though. If I recommend laminated MPF in the build thread I'm working on, I don't want to tell people to use a toxic, flammable glue.

That's why I had my hopes up for a cheap, easy, hazard-free solution. I'll try again with other glues.

i havent tried it on larger areas but on a 30" wing Elmers rubber cement works well

Gorilla Glue, Gorilla Glue, Gorilla Glue!

Woo! Woo! Woo!

Ken

Ken, I'll bet you Do weigh it down to keep the foaming from lumping out.

:-) Bob

The trick is to apply a light covering of GG and then try to scrape it all off.
When you have scraped off every atom of GG that it is humanly possible to do, it'll be about right.

Whiskers,
That pretty close to what I do. You need to be sure it has a wet look, but no more. Then as Bob said. I don't just weigh it down though. I clamp it to the point of slightly compressing the foam. Consequently I use poplar or maple stock to clamp between. This insures there are no air gaps and the job is flat. When you use GG this way, you get alot of milage from that 2 oz bottle.

Another form of clamping is painters or masking tape. I would not build foamies without it. Consumable item though.

Ken

Here is a KF step lamination in process


And a fuselage lamination set up.


Link to this process here

Originally Posted by Whiskers

The trick is to apply a light covering of GG and then try to scrape it all off.
When you have scraped off every atom of GG that it is humanly possible to do, it'll be about right.

Another advantage of scraping the glue is that it forces it into the pores of the foam, thereby getting even deeper adhesion.

Ken

Weight is great, but vacuum bag is the ultimate. I have bagged balsa sheeting on many foam cores, both white EPS 1Lb and blue extruded from 15psi to 60psi using elmers and Gorilla Glue. Polyurethane glue works great in bags just as long as you make sure that there is enough moisture to catalyze the glue. Vacuum bagging is pretty easy once you have the equipment and can apply low to high pressure ofer the entire surface to insure an excellent bond.

Just sharing an alternative that has yet to be mentioned...

J.P.

It's awfully hard to beat that toxic, flammable spray adhesive 3M 45, 77, or 90 for laminating foam. Very easy to apply (as long as you are in a calm air, temperature-controlled environment with good ventilation), adheres really well, and is very predictable. Don't forget to use an atomizer and spritz on a dampening of some very flammable denatured alcohol before joining the pieces together.

[sigh]

Sometimes the best results come from the less-than-best solution. I guess ya just gotta weigh the overall advantages and disadvantages before making your choice.

Originally Posted by Depronicus

All I did was dribble the cheapest, most basic Elmer's available onto the sheets, spread it out with two fingers, dribble on more Elmer's where it seemed it needed it, stick the two sheets together, rub it down with the palm of my hand, and walk away from it. I didn't clamp it or put weights on it.

The lack of clamps or weights to compress the glued laminates is the biggest contributing factor to your glue failure. Sounds like an air pocket allowed the glue to dry against both surfaces. Also, the Elmer's White Glue is not nearly as good as the Elmer's Carpenters Glues.

But don't give up.
Try it again with these.

Elmer's Carpenter's Glue (Original), Elmer's Carpenter's Glue Max, Gorilla White, Gorilla Original.
Remember...don't use too much glue...and spread evenly...
I predict they will all work fine as long as you have sufficient totally flat compression of the laminates by using boards loaded down with weights or clamps.

The Groilla glues will give give you quicker results, as well as be usable in lots of other glue joints besides laminates.

Both Elmer's Carpenter glues will be limited to gluing up laminations.
They will need 48 hours of compression.;
They will take longer to cure...one to two weeks.
They will be more economical (gallon jugs).

Originally Posted by A Useless Geek

...[sigh]...

Exactly.

Originally Posted by RJKIRK

...Try it again with these...

I will. Thanks.