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Old Apr 24, 2012, 10:03 AM
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jsmith285's Avatar
Fort Wayne
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Good write up SteveT!
And nice tip GP

Here's avid that helps too.

hinges.mpg (12 min 35 sec)
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 11:00 AM
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United States, NV, Las Vegas
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Thanks so much Steve, GP and Joe's Dad for all the advice!!!
What kind of glue do you use on the joiner GP?
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 11:10 AM
Team 3DHS, Hacker, Gens Ace
United States, CA, Fullerton
Joined Nov 2007
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -= GYRO =- View Post
Thanks so much Steve, GP and Joe's Dad for all the advice!!!
What kind of glue do you use on the joiner GP?
Gorilla or similar give the most working time.

Here are the build videos from the prototype 70" Slick. The hinge install hasn't changed. The end of video #2 and the begining of #3 show the elevator/rudder install.
I've got new videos in the works for 71/72/74" planes

3D Hobby Shop 70" AJ Slick Build Video #2 (6 min 44 sec)


3D Hobby Shop 70" AJ Slick Build Video #3 (7 min 15 sec)
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 01:55 PM
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United States, NE, Lincoln
Joined Mar 2011
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That is a great idea, I will have to do that for sure on my next small airframe build! it seems the counterbalances are never perfect and you always have a small difference between the two. Not that it seems to matter in flight, I am just a perfectionist

Quote:
Originally Posted by G.P. View Post
Good write up SteveT!

One thing that I do different from the 3DHS manuals is that I do the elevator before the rudder. This allows me to clamp the two elevator halves together while the joiner glue drys. I use a long piece of wood on the top and bottom of the elevator halves and clamp them together for a proper alignment.

Also, don't use CA on the joiner as the manuals (used to?) suggest. One of the most common problems that I read about on here is misaligned elevator halves. Using a glue that gives you time to work, and clamping the halves together while it drys will give you a better chance at getting it right the first time.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.P. View Post
Good write up SteveT!

One thing that I do different from the 3DHS manuals is that I do the elevator before the rudder. This allows me to clamp the two elevator halves together while the joiner glue drys. I use a long piece of wood on the top and bottom of the elevator halves and clamp them together for a proper alignment.

Also, don't use CA on the joiner as the manuals (used to?) suggest. One of the most common problems that I read about on here is misaligned elevator halves. Using a glue that gives you time to work, and clamping the halves together while it drys will give you a better chance at getting it right the first time.
Thanks Greg....

And your suggestion is great too...I just suggested doing the rudder first as it is the easier of the two jobs, but doing the rudder second does give you the opportunity to clamp them together, which is definitely a good thing.

And, as noted for small planes, I have used "Slo-Zap", but I wouldn't for a plane this size at all...

SteveT
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 06:45 PM
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United States, ID, Boise
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I use Gorilla glue on all my joiners to give me working time and to fill in all the spaces. Use a q-tip to get everything moist with water first to get maximum expansion. I use blue painters tape to secure and align the counter balance to the stab on both sides while it is drying. Never had a problem with them being misaligned doing it that way. I do the elevator first too so i can assure both sides are lined up with the rudder out of the way. Rudder is easier to do anyways.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 06:52 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
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San Jose, CA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lammbn View Post
I use Gorilla glue on all my joiners to give me working time and to fill in all the spaces. I use blue painters tape to secure and align the counter balance to the stab on both sides while it is drying. Never had a problem with them being misaligned doing it that way. I do the elevator first too so i can assure both sides are lined up with the rudder out of the way. Rudder is easier to do anyways.
Though I heartily agree with you guys....another reason I do the rudder first, is that unlike what the instructions call for. I install the stab next to last, and the landing gear last. I like to be able to do all the interior stuff (I.E. rudder servo, receiver, motor.ESC etc..) before installing the stab and gear, so that I can lay the fuselage on it's side or whatever I want to do without having the parts that stick way out, in the way...This of course is just a personal preference, but it sure makes things a lot easier....and...as noted, just using some blue painters tape on the balance tabs on the elevator will keep the elevators aligned unless there is some gross problem, which would need to be corrected anyway....

SteveT
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 09:37 PM
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I do things similar to that for the same reason. i do the the entire plane up front first, then elevator, LG/tail wheel, and rudder last. it is much easier to do as much as you can before you do the tail.
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 10:56 PM
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Lafayette, Louisiana
Joined Dec 2005
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Hey guys... check this out...

Real Flight Plane....

THEEEEE 3DHS 74" EDGE in Silver & White !
by me... I found it hard on a edge so its the same color on a extra 330L-DC...!

What do you think?!!!

Here is the Link to down load it!:

http://www.knifeedge.com/forums/down...=file&id=16636
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Old Apr 24, 2012, 11:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by -= GYRO =- View Post
What kind of glue do you use on the joiner GP?
I like Gorrila Glue for it's gap filling properties. You have to be able to watch it for about an hour though, and keep cleaning away the excess. It can also push things apart when it expands, so you really have to watch it.

I've used epoxy with great results though. It's nice that you can just leave it while it dries.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 12:31 AM
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Ventura, CA
Joined Oct 2009
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Good looking plane, now I've gotta upgrade from 4.5 to 6. Thanks alot....
Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathan7x70 View Post
Hey guys... check this out...

Real Flight Plane....

THEEEEE 3DHS 74" EDGE in Silver & White !
by me... I found it hard on a edge so its the same color on a extra 330L-DC...!

What do you think?!!!

Here is the Link to down load it!:

http://www.knifeedge.com/forums/down...=file&id=16636
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 08:53 AM
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United States, LA, Moss Bluff
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Quote:
Originally Posted by G.P. View Post
I like Gorrila Glue for it's gap filling properties. You have to be able to watch it for about an hour though, and keep cleaning away the excess. It can also push things apart when it expands, so you really have to watch it.

I've used epoxy with great results though. It's nice that you can just leave it while it dries.
Me to but I tape everything and not overuse the GG. I also don't add any water. This just makes it expand more and in this small area you do n't need any more expansion than normal. I just let it expand and chip it off when it drys.
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 11:30 AM
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United States, NJ, Clayton
Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathan7x70 View Post
Hey guys... check this out...

Real Flight Plane....

THEEEEE 3DHS 74" EDGE in Silver & White !
by me... I found it hard on a edge so its the same color on a extra 330L-DC...!

What do you think?!!!

Here is the Link to down load it!:

http://www.knifeedge.com/forums/down...=file&id=16636

NICE!!!!!
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Old Apr 25, 2012, 02:37 PM
I fly, therefore, I crash!!!
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San Jose, CA
Joined Jan 2008
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Lets see....we have radio wars, motor brand wars, servo wars, connector wars...and now "glue wars"...








Just kidding discussion of ways to do things is good

SteveT
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Last edited by SteveT.; Apr 25, 2012 at 03:16 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2012, 12:13 AM
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United States, TN, Knoxville
Joined Apr 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jonathan7x70 View Post
Hey guys... check this out...

Real Flight Plane....

THEEEEE 3DHS 74" EDGE in Silver & White !
by me... I found it hard on a edge so its the same color on a extra 330L-DC...!

What do you think?!!!

Here is the Link to down load it!:

http://www.knifeedge.com/forums/down...=file&id=16636

Can you do the red/white scheme for me also...??

Excellent work on this one!
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