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Old Dec 14, 2011, 04:32 PM
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Australia, WA, Perth
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Zimodile View Post
Hmmm I wouldn't set too much by those settings. Inverse differential on the ailerons? Perhaps not.

Z
Hi all I have received another set up sheet for Toba & it appears that the differential was a typo..It is 6mm down & 8mm up Cg range is 94-98mm behind LE. Hook 92-96mm behind LE
Ian
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 04:46 PM
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Vancouver, Canada
Joined Jan 2008
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"James' foils are freely available from him for anyone to use."

By the way, the JH8, 7.5 and 7 as used on the Typhoon and Strega make for one heck of a thermal duration/F3J wing.

I built a two metre thermal duration wing with them and it flies a bit like the Drela AG40 series.

Sorry for the thread jack Target.


T.D.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 06:30 PM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
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No worries TD.

R,
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 10:03 PM
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Joined Jul 2004
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Here is my dry fitting of my Toba. Hope all the pushrods, tow hook and ballast tube can be stuffed properly without binding.

By the way, I have rolled a smaller ballast tube and tailored a servo tray for fuselage.

The 6 pin connectors are fixed to the outside of the fuselage and the female connectors will be glued flush to the wing root.

PB
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Last edited by polar bear; Dec 20, 2011 at 02:08 AM.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 01:44 AM
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Australia, TAS, Devonport
Joined May 2008
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Fuselage plugs

I had a lot of trouble with the connectors loosening in the fuselage of my model (too much "precision landing" :-)

Tried cyano, epoxy and even sikaflex to glue them - no luck!

The solution to be tried next is to use double sided circuit board, which has worked well on previous models.
  • Cut a strip of board to match the plug width. Cut this strip to length to exactly match the spacing you need for the plug spacing in the fuselage.Take a notch out of each corner of the board to clear the front and back pins of the connector.
  • Score the copper to form 3 strips on both sides of the strip of board, with a wider center strip. Score the copper from the outer strips in the center.
  • Insert the board between the double pins of the plug. Solder the top 2 pins to the center strip of copper, and the bottom two the other side. Solder the front and back pins to both sides of the board.
  • Add a single power lead to the top, another to the bottom, then 4 signal wires that feed the Rx.

Here's a very crude attempt at a diagram

John
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Last edited by luvF3b; Dec 20, 2011 at 02:27 AM. Reason: Hmmm - technological illiteracy?
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 02:01 AM
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Wow, thanks for reminding. I may have the connectors glued to the wing while leaving the fuselage side hanging free.
PB
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 04:47 AM
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Warwickshire, England
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Quote:
Originally Posted by luvF3b View Post
I had a lot of trouble with the connectors loosening in the fuselage of my model (too much "precision landing" :-)

Tried cyano, epoxy and even sikaflex to glue them - no luck!

The solution to be tried next is to use double sided circuit board, which has worked well on previous models.
  • Cut a strip of board to match the plug width. Cut this strip to length to exactly match the spacing you need for the plug spacing in the fuselage.Take a notch out of each corner of the board to clear the front and back pins of the connector.
  • Score the copper to form 3 strips on both sides of the strip of board, with a wider center strip. Score the copper from the outer strips in the center.
  • Insert the board between the double pins of the plug. Solder the top 2 pins to the center strip of copper, and the bottom two the other side. Solder the front and back pins to both sides of the board.
  • Add a single power lead to the top, another to the bottom, then 4 signal wires that feed the Rx.

Here's a very crude attempt at a diagram

John
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 10:24 AM
Detail Freak
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Harbor City, CA
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Thats very similar to the gadget that they have in the Fischer Estrella. It works good!

R,
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 02:03 PM
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Mar 2004
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You can just use 5200 to glue the multiplex plugs. It can never come out no matter what but is easy to remove whenever you want. It's also infinitely strong yet extremely flexible. Really a best of both worlds kind of thing but unfortunately it is unbelievably messy.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 06:07 PM
I do this for fun!
Sunshine Coast, Australia
Joined Sep 2004
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I normally use Gorilla CA for one half to get it aligned quickly and easily with some 'give', and then use Goop for the other half for all the reasons listed above by Vespa.

I'll put my 'precision landings' up against yours any day John

My plugs have never come loose yet.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 06:20 PM
Detail Freak
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vespa View Post
You can just use 5200 to glue the multiplex plugs. It can never come out no matter what but is easy to remove whenever you want. It's also infinitely strong yet extremely flexible. Really a best of both worlds kind of thing but unfortunately it is unbelievably messy.
Just an FYI, they make standard and "fast cure" 3M 5200....

And they also make a 3M 4200, you might look into all of those if you haven't already.
The original 5200 takes a REALLY long time to dry, like a week, can dry underwater, and comes in other flavors besides white.

R,
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 06:36 PM
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Thousand Oaks, CA
Joined Mar 2004
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Yes Goop is pretty similar and more readily available though it's not nearly as flexible and it skins over pretty quickly so it won't flow as nicely as the 5200. Also, many adhesives (RTV for example) will corrode metal contacts if applied directly -- 5200 does not, I don't know about Goop.

"Fast cure" 5200 takes forever to dry. Longer than anything you have ever seen. The regular 5200 takes much much longer. 4200 is the same but just weaker so there is some possibility of removing it later. 5200 is nearly impossible to remove but I have had success with lots of isopropyl scrubbing within the first few days.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 08:02 PM
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Harbor City, CA
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That's pretty funny.
Been working on boats (what 5200 is actually made for) since I was 17. That's 31 years, sonny! :-)

Here's a tip for you, that may, or may not, have molded sailplane applications....
When we were using "52Billion", that's what we called it, in a cosmetic application, to make a nice fillet, we'd use low tack masking tape first on the two surfaces the fillet connected. Then the 52billion was applied carefully from the gun.
Then a gloved finger, dipped periodically in plain old paint thinner was used to "work" the fillet. The goal was to have as much 5200 removed from the masking tape as possible, leaving a thin edge on the fillet.

Then, after a short drying/inspecting period, the tape was carefully peeled back, directly into a trash can.

You might try denatured alcohol, or even WD40 instead, for similar applications.

I've used 5200 before for servo tray installs; works well, but as you said, it tends to get places you don't intend.

Also, 5200 is pretty heavy, so that is something to consider aft of the CG.

R,
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Last edited by target; Dec 20, 2011 at 08:11 PM.
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 10:09 PM
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Australia, QLD, Gold Coast
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Is the Toba flying yet ? . .
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Old Dec 20, 2011, 10:50 PM
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Just noted that the RC car guys have some Strong thick and flexi CA glue for bonding their wheel and sponge tires. Maybe a good stuff.
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