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Quote:
HOLY KRAP!!!!! I would have never guessed someone would use an actual picture of themselves for an avitar! Good to meet you Hugh, look forward to going up against you on my home turf in the near future!![]() That goes for all you other Polaris drivers as well! |
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Latest blog entry: Swith in battery chemistry for all my...
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NorCal
Joined Nov 2009
467 Posts
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Quote:
A couple more rounds I didn't do as well and I really suck at poker, just pilot error not the plane, and then I mis-judged whether I was in front of or behind a light pole, and ended up hitting the pole with the right wing. There was a bit of leading edge damage where it struck but that was all I could find. The wing still felt strong, so later on I put some tape on the leading edge and test flew it and everything seemed fine. After a few throws or it might have been a round or two later, on launch we heard a crack. The peg was in the wingtip, but the wingtip had broken a little inboard of the peg. It was most visible from the top with the white paint, but you could feel a crack on the bottom carbon as well. I didn't want to do a bad field repair job away from my shop so I had to fly my other plane for the rest of the contest... Brian |
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Brian,
you do not suck! you are an awesome pilot with an incredible launch. if the Polaris survived for you, i am confident you would have moved up SEVERAL places. i was watching you fly and was impressed with what you were making the Polaris do. Give the plane some time. you will be a force to be reckoned with very soon with this plane ![]() ![]() ![]() Skyboyken, one set includes 6, 1/2oz plates, for a total of 3oz which should be plenty for nearly all conditions we fly. you only need one set. the only thing i dont like it the plates are dimensioned such that the mass is located at about 70mm aft of the LE which is behind the CG of what some pilots are flying. i am flying mine between 70-72mm so adding ballast does not affect balance. the plates are a little narrow too so you will need to block the sides and back of the box for a tight fit. the Polaris carries weight very well. i actually enjoy flying my Polaris with about an ounce of ballast to bring it up to 11oz. it flies faster but doesnt hinder climb. i played with the full load, 3oz of ballast (13oz AUW), and it really pulls on the arm during launch but flies great even that heavily loaded. again, climb is still good. some planes dont handle a lot of ballast very well, but the Polaris really does. My Twister 1 flew great with up to 2oz of ballast, but much more and the climb simply disappeared. being able to take a lot of ballast makes the Polaris a real multi-purpose plane, it can fly light air and heavy winds with the same airframe, just play with ballast. let me know if you need any more info. paul |
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NorCal
Joined Nov 2009
467 Posts
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Thanks Paul! When I hit the light pole, I wasn't going fast, but being able to tape it and fly says something of the overall strength of the wing. As for the tip, I don't see any other way to fix it other than to put a patch on the top and bottom, unless someone has another type of fix. I don't think I do any weird twisting of the tip when I throw, but maybe I do and just don't know it, I'm usually the one taking the pictures... The only thing I can figure is that one finger released before the other which torqued the peg funny... It did "feel" like one of my stronger launches, I'm a good launcher, but I don't usually rip tips off planes.
As for the pine car weights, here's a couple of pictures. I haven't had a chance to try them yet so I'm not sure if it affects my CG, but as Paul said, you get six 1/2 ounch plates. The picture is one set, and I think you can see the amount of room in the chamber. When you stack 3 plates in they come to just below the top of the chamber, maybe about 1/32" below the top. As you can see there is also a little side to side play and certainly front to back. Perhaps if you make different foam spacers you can add ballast in 1/2 oz. increments, at least that's what I plan to do. Brian |
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When repairing the tip...
FIRST! Inject with a syringe/needle some thin CA glue into the rohacell core. Do this around the peg area, lets say a radius of 3/8. This since the core might have been crushed/mushed just outside the hardpoint, and it needs to get stiff again to support the fabric. Then add a patch on bottom and top. Also as a last thing, create a small fillet around the peg itself to give a nice transition to the surface, like a 1/16 or so radius. Use very little CA glue...not much CA glue is needed to dothe foam fix! Hope you understand my explanation. /Jonas Ekman |
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