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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:03 AM
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Patato93's Avatar
France, IdF, Paris
Joined Mar 2012
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Hi,
I received the Baro sensor 3 weeks ago....I get the V6.4 Firmware (My AQ50D is the purple one with sensor add-on).
For the moment, I haven't found the right GAIN to flight with the Baro ON.....

I will try again soon....And will let you know about it.
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Old Nov 14, 2012, 09:14 AM
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nebstress's Avatar
United Kingdom, England
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Patato93 View Post
Hi,
I received the Baro sensor 3 weeks ago....I get the V6.4 Firmware (My AQ50D is the purple one with sensor add-on).
For the moment, I haven't found the right GAIN to flight with the Baro ON.....

I will try again soon....And will let you know about it.
Thank you Patato93, we will be very interested to hear about your experiences with the Baro.
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Old Nov 15, 2012, 08:14 PM
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Altitude Hold Module Manual in English

http://sjprs.myweb.hinet.net/tmf/HD-101/HD-101r.htm
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 04:34 PM
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Tel Aviv-Yafo Sde Dov, Israel
Joined Apr 1999
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Originally Posted by Alwayscrash View Post
oded mazor, add on sensor must be used with 5.2 firmware or higher. Your problem seems related to Esc's, check for motors/wires connection/soldering even if they look good on eyes.
After that, calibrate FC and TX and test fly again. If everything fail then controller may have problem but don't hope so.
AC
Made some extensive testing and found out that I really do have a loose solder point in the Rx's cable, fixed that and it's better but still problematic.

analog sensor (version 1.8 2G) works great, very little trim and flies beutifully (very muck like my old AQ50 board).

However, the add-on sensor board is not performing well. tried all versions with the same problem - there is no auto levelling. it responds OK to stick movements but it does not go back to level flight at all, making it impossible to fly.

any ideas ?
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 06:36 PM
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Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Sep 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oded mazor View Post
Made some extensive testing and found out that I really do have a loose solder point in the Rx's cable, fixed that and it's better but still problematic.

analog sensor (version 1.8 2G) works great, very little trim and flies beutifully (very muck like my old AQ50 board).

However, the add-on sensor board is not performing well. tried all versions with the same problem - there is no auto levelling. it responds OK to stick movements but it does not go back to level flight at all, making it impossible to fly.

any ideas ?
Did you calibrate FC after loading new firmware? on mine with add-on sensor gain pot is at 2.30 o'clock with 12x3.8 props & 3 o 'clock with 11x5 props. Seems add-on sensor doesn't like gain pot at high rate.
AC
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Old Nov 16, 2012, 07:33 PM
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Joined Aug 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by oded mazor View Post
Made some extensive testing and found out that I really do have a loose solder point in the Rx's cable, fixed that and it's better but still problematic.

analog sensor (version 1.8 2G) works great, very little trim and flies beutifully (very muck like my old AQ50 board).

However, the add-on sensor board is not performing well. tried all versions with the same problem - there is no auto levelling. it responds OK to stick movements but it does not go back to level flight at all, making it impossible to fly.

any ideas ?
maybe sensor is bad.Please contact your vendor.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 04:58 AM
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Joined Oct 2012
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Hello, I have issues with my AQ50 Board: My Quad flies pretty well, still have issues when rotating on a fixed position. The Quad starts drifting and going higher in a fast way. Can this be due to vibrations? One more thing: The Quad should go straight up, when I give full speed to the ESCs, mine starts making a curve to a side and flipps over. Is there an issue with one or more ESCs? Calibration? I did not get the solution for this.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 10:18 AM
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Italia, Piemonte, Biella
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If you haven't calibrated escs, you definately have to, unless they are simonk flashed escs. If it still leans to one side when you give throttle then try swapping left and right escs and see if it still leans the same side. If it still does, try swapping motors. Also check bullet connectors, usually a sudden flip is caused by esc-motor connection going wrong.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 10:46 AM
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If you haven't calibrated escs, you definately have to, unless they are simonk flashed escs.
Even if they are SimonK they have to be calibrated!!
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 11:22 AM
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Even if they are SimonK they have to be calibrated!!
according to timecop no... i got some from him and used them straight away without calibration. After severla days i had a strange problem and thought it was because of calibration, so i calibrated them, but problem didn't go away (at the end it was not esc fault). Anyway i contacted him, and he asked why on earth did i recalibrate escs, when they are set for standard 1000-2000 values from firmware...
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 12:18 PM
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Canada, NS, Halifax
Joined Feb 2010
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Yes if the Simonk are all flashed with same version should be no need to calibrate them.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 12:26 PM
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Weird, that's not been my experience since "Throttle Calibration" was added to SimonK FW about 10 month ago but I have only built a couple dozen copters & flashed a few hundred sets of ESC's with SimonK fw.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 12:27 PM
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Canada, NS, Halifax
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Originally Posted by nebstress View Post
Weird, that's not been my experience since "Throttle Calibration" was added to SimonK FW about 10 month ago but I have only built a couple dozen copters & flashed a few hundred sets of ESC's with SimonK fw.
It was added but I've never found it needed.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:26 AM
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Joined Dec 2012
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hi all, quick question in regards to esc live wires, as far as i know most multirotor fc's requires the live wires to be taken out except for M1 esc, does the AQ board require the same method, currently on mine the live wires from the esc's are all connected to the board..and i feel that i am experiencing fast current draw from my batts.
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Old Dec 03, 2012, 06:41 AM
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I've always connected them all on mine, never had an issue. Wouldn't be causing current draw I cannot see. If they are switching BEC type however it is not good to have them all connected.
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