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Old Feb 15, 2013, 09:19 PM
My Co-Pilots Rock!!
wolfewinde's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined May 2011
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I have had good luck with the E-Flite motors. Go with the 20 amp ESC - better safe than sorry.

I would go with the 1080 KV, but I tend to like lower KV motors.

Should be a good power system for you

Wolfe
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 09:30 PM
Registered User
United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Dec 2011
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You can use 10x4.7 on park 370 KV 1360 on 2S. Try this site:
http://rcwebclub.com/PropEngine.aspx
I have used this calculator for power plant from 200W to 2200W, it has been working great for me so far. Basically you type in the prop size, motor KV, # of cells, and AUW; leave the voltage at 3.8v, and then check the peak Amp. In your case, it's 17 amp. Make sure the peak amp is below the burst amp of your motor, ESC, and battery and you are good. You can also check the thrust and thrust/weight ratio, in this calculator, but in real world the peak Amp and thrust normally will be lower.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 12:31 AM
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Kimber's Avatar
USA
Joined Mar 2005
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Got the heat sink for my J3-S today, got it installed. Did it myself!

First nice day it get airborne. From the looks of the weather forecast,
about 2050 maybe???

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Old Feb 16, 2013, 08:30 AM
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Taiwan, 北市
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LonB View Post
I would like to start out as slow as possible and utilize my 2S 1300mAh 20C batteries. I see the Eflite Park 370 (110-150W) works well with this battery and is available in 1080, 1200 and 1360kv and swings an 8-10 prop. How do you think the SS will fly with this setup? And which kv would be best? The listing says they work with 10-20A ESCs. Is it safe to assume a 20 would have less chance of burning up?
If you insist on using 2S 1300mAh 20C with a 400 size motor on your SS, in my idea it's better to take the 1080 or even the 1200KV motor and with a 10 x 6 or EP1060 prop for good thrust, the spec of the motor might give you the best answer if you could find out the spec of the motor nowadays. And yes, a 20A ESC is safer if you forgot to throttle down right after a crash.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 09:39 AM
Right Rudder
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USA, FL, Orlando
Joined Nov 2010
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Kimber,

Nice heat sink! It brings lots of memories as I had these when I started the hobby.

Wish you the best with your flights and hope great weather conditions.

Carlos
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 09:45 AM
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Ron H's Avatar
Bishopville S.C.
Joined May 2003
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kimber View Post
Got the heat sink for my J3-S today, got it installed. Did it myself!
I assume the side mounting is to give it some right thrust. Thrust from an IPS is typically<3oz.,so it probably won't make much difference. Given that, It seems the motor should be mounted on the left side of the fuse to get right thrust.
Think what happens when a twin loses power to one motor.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 09:50 AM
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USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron H View Post
I assume the side mounting is to give it some right thrust. Thrust from an IPS is typically<3oz.,so it probably won't make much difference. Given that, It seems the motor should be mounted on the left side of the fuse to get right thrust.
Think what happens when a twin loses power to one motor.
I did it the way the instructions showed.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 02:43 PM
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Ron H's Avatar
Bishopville S.C.
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Can't argue with that. I tend to assemble things without a glance at the instructions, and make the occasional error. I mount the motor on top for extra ground clearance. Is there a reason in the manual for the side mounting?
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 02:58 PM
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USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron H View Post
Can't argue with that. I tend to assemble things without a glance at the instructions, and make the occasional error. I mount the motor on top for extra ground clearance. Is there a reason in the manual for the side mounting?
The stick is not square. So it is either left or right. Maybe the
weight of the motor off sets the torque. BTW, the prop shaft
is on the left side of the stick.
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Old Feb 16, 2013, 03:43 PM
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Bishopville S.C.
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Well dangitall, I feel like the idiot I must seem. I totally forgot about carving and shimming the fuse to get the motor on top, which gives even more ground clearance. Ah well, ignore my posts and have a great flight. Here's hoping for calm winds.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 07:01 PM
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Joined Feb 2012
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Well folks I hope to join the GWS brotherhood soon. I am an old hand at rc but fairly new to electric power. For the past year or so I have been messing with foam warbirds from the likes of Dynam, FMS and Starmax. In my search for the new Dynam f4u I came across the GWS f4u. The GWS looks like a fun tinkering project with more to do than screw it together as I would do with the Dynam. Last night from headsuprc I ordered the white no power f4u and a firepower 450 sport motor 1100kv. Unsure of the GWS motor mount setup I ordered the GWS 28mm to 35mm stick mount for the motor. Searching the threads I have failed to see how the motor is mounted in the f4u so hence the mount. I'm sure when I get the plane it will be clear to me. Love what you folks have done with your GWS planes in this thread and look forward to having fun as well.
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 07:32 PM
My Co-Pilots Rock!!
wolfewinde's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
Joined May 2011
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Welcome to the thread, Semperfi - I am going to call you SF after this. The Corsair is one of the better GWS warbirds in my experience - good choice. Keep us informed and don't hesitate to ask for help if you need it

Wolfe
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 09:23 PM
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United States, IL, Joliet
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My local shop is tempting me into a silver twin 300 C-47 for dirt cheap...
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 09:27 PM
My Co-Pilots Rock!!
wolfewinde's Avatar
United States, FL, Clearwater
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Darn those guys - LOL

Wolfe
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Old Feb 20, 2013, 11:08 PM
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The Netherlands, ZH, Wassenaar
Joined Sep 2010
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Semperfi,

I just recently finished my GWS Corsair. I built her on the light side, 2408 motor, dual 5 gr servos for the ailerons. The stock setup on one aileron servos and curved rods are tricky to get to work right.

The 10mm stick and GWS plastic ring 28mm mount should be fine with your motor. Don't glue in the stick until you've fitted just right, may need to cut a little, or maybe not. Depending on if you want scale or super sport flying, good prop sizes are 9 X 4.7 to 9 X 7 to 8 X 6. I have a higher KV motor so I'm happy with an GWS 8043 prop to fly somewhere between scale and sport. She doesn't look right doing figure 8s, turning on a dime or doing mini-hovers, which I sometimes foolishly do.

Somewhere a few pages back, Wolfe had a very good suggestion to mod the LG to prevent noseovers which will happen with less than very perfect landings. She is a warbird and won't like slow speeds (tip stalls) at landing approach.
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