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Old Nov 26, 2012, 12:01 PM
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lectroglide's Avatar
United States, WA, Puyallup
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Gws spitfire pix

just put this together and thought Id post a pic...........the build was fairly painless however installing the equip. took almost as much time as the model construction but very plezed with the outcome......

hada real hard time getting the CG right and had to use lead weight and some other metal stuff in the nose and still came out a bit tail heavy so hoping it flys ok, gotta 3 blader/nose cone on the way
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Old Nov 26, 2012, 12:42 PM
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that's means CG is a rough area, correct?
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 08:29 AM
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India, DL, New Delhi
Joined Sep 2010
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nice looking Spit.

I'd prefer to never add lead or weight to the nose. If the battery can't moved forward, I'd rather put in a more powerful heavier motor.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 08:35 AM
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India, DL, New Delhi
Joined Sep 2010
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Flew the Corsair again today. The TowerPro 2408 really makes it overpowered. It jumps in the air literally after a takeoff roll of about a foot! Not unlimited vertical but impressive for a tiny motor. The lightweight 1000 mAh lipo probably is factor along with no rudder servo to save weight. Flies level at 15% to 20% throttle! Stall speed is amazingly slow too! I'm starting to become a fan but it'll take a lot more convincing for me to say it's a better that the GWS Me109. The Me109 seems to give more a "flies on a rail" feeling.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 10:22 AM
In thrust we trust
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Aguanga, Ca
Joined Mar 2010
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I can remember reading through the GWS Corsair thread and the general consensus was indeed that it flies like on rails, so I'd suspect that the flight characteristics of yours are due to it being feather-light. You may want to consider adding a few ounces to the power system and adding rudder to see if it tracks better.

Where's your CG? 50-55mm is about right from the LE.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 10:49 AM
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United States, WA, Puyallup
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLeabres View Post
nice looking Spit.

I'd prefer to never add lead or weight to the nose. If the battery can't moved forward, I'd rather put in a more powerful heavier motor.
thanx.........like to keep my models light cuzz they fly better so didnt like adding weight, and yes I carved out the nose area prior to joining the fuse halfs so a 3S 1000 would fit but still didnt help the CG issue, also thought about a heavier motor like on my GWS ZERO but didnt wanna mess with it so went with the lead
hopefully itll fly better. Hada real crazy tail heavy maiden! if I didnt have experience would have wrecked it for sure, 2nd flight will be today and hopefully much improved BTW the magnets that hold the canopy on arent strong enuff so the canopy flew off on the 1st flight so had to use velcro....................just ordered a GWS CORSAIR so need to watch the CG issue on that one too, most war bird models are tail heavy
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 11:31 AM
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United States, WA, Puyallup
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Gws zero

just dug this out from the hanger,the canopy lines were made from thin cut electrical tape one ata time details later
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 11:56 AM
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United States, PA, Philadelphia
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Nice Zero. I did the same thing for the canopy lines. What a pain in my .
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 12:27 PM
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United States, WA, Puyallup
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Originally Posted by Vince_TT View Post
Nice Zero. I did the same thing for the canopy lines. What a pain in my .
thanx, and yes very time consuming re the lines but what the hay it kept me busy
BTW had to use some down thrust to make this mother fly, the motor is heavier than most and is a hand wound kit KH 283 from kamoto hobby, the double stator really added some weight so didnt have to use lead in the nose just the clay. If I would have known about the small lipo space would have hogged out the compartment ahead of time so had to use a 3S 450, not much flight time but about 6 min. of grin time

also had to use thicker landing gear wire cuzz stock was too whimpy
these GWS kits are good for those who have experience and take some tweeking to make fly right, wouldnt really advise newbes unless they have lotta flight time and building experience, other than that good bang for the buck. just ordered the GWS corsair so will be well aware about the CG issue, now if I can only find some miniture pilots!
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 02:45 PM
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United States, PA, Philadelphia
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My Zero has been through many motors and changes;
Turnigy 2826 kv1400- great motor, burn out at crash site.
TP 2409 KV 1200 & 1600 with many many shafts, good motor but burn out after about 30 flights on each.
EMP 2830 950kv & 1300 KV- both junk, could not get over 90W out of them.
Finally settled with EMP 2836 kv1050- great motor! also I could take 1/2oz of lead off the nose, But she still has two AA batteries in her to get the correct CG.

Being inexperienced at build so I did not cave out battery compartment all the way forward. I had to add a whopping 2.5oz of dead weight at beginning. Not a good pilot either back then so I kept crashing/fixing her but she flew better and better!

At one point I fitted micro retracts that made the AUW to 23oz/650g but lost the fun of flying her. Converted to a belly lander and have a lot of fun again!

The Spit, Zero and 190 are my favorite GWS even though I have not flown them for a long time.




Quote:
Originally Posted by lectroglide View Post
thanx, and yes very time consuming re the lines but what the hay it kept me busy
BTW had to use some down thrust to make this mother fly, the motor is heavier than most and is a hand wound kit KH 283 from kamoto hobby, the double stator really added some weight so didnt have to use lead in the nose just the clay. If I would have known about the small lipo space would have hogged out the compartment ahead of time so had to use a 3S 450, not much flight time but about 6 min. of grin time

also had to use thicker landing gear wire cuzz stock was too whimpy
these GWS kits are good for those who have experience and take some tweeking to make fly right, wouldnt really advise newbes unless they have lotta flight time and building experience, other than that good bang for the buck. just ordered the GWS corsair so will be well aware about the CG issue, now if I can only find some miniture pilots!
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 06:03 PM
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just flew and had alittle mishap "lost oreintation" and it kind of skidded in no damage just pissed me off, it shouldnt have happened but it did, so back in the shop smoothing out the rough spots and looking good as new!
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 08:08 PM
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United States, IL, Joliet
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lectroglide View Post
just dug this out from the hanger,the canopy lines were made from thin cut electrical tape one ata time details later
reverse mask the canopy....put tape on the canopy on one side, trim out the wondow and move to the other side....I always did that with the car bodies....but you could also just mask the outside and paint...
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 08:54 PM
Doing it in the Lateral Axis
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USA, OH, Akron
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lectroglide View Post
just flew and had a mishap "lost oreintation" and smacked it right in! pissed me off BIGTIME it shouldnt have happened but it did, so back in the shop putting it back togther and looking good as new, But still was acting tail heavy and still not enuff down thrust, next time will get it right
I assume your talking about the GWS Zero. Yes, the COG is hard to set and if the plane is tail heavy its very hard to control for sure. I don't use down thrust on the motor. The trick is the lipo mount. The lipo should be sitting directly behind the motor at an angle nearly strait up and down behind the motor. a 3 cell 1350 30c lipo is just right if using a regular outrunner. If you use a PZ BL motor, lipo can sit parallel to the motor a few inches back. I have some build threads somewhere..If I can find them I will post a link.

This is a great flying Zero as long as the COG is set at the right spot. The COG on these is a bit tough because they were designed for ni-mh batteries and brushed motors. Easy way to fix that problem is to install a BIG motor like from the PZ T-28..

GWS Zero with T-28 BL motor in wind (2 min 23 sec)
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 09:21 PM
Doing it in the Lateral Axis
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USA, OH, Akron
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince_TT View Post
My Zero has been through many motors and changes;
Turnigy 2826 kv1400- great motor, burn out at crash site.
TP 2409 KV 1200 & 1600 with many many shafts, good motor but burn out after about 30 flights on each.
EMP 2830 950kv & 1300 KV- both junk, could not get over 90W out of them.
Finally settled with EMP 2836 kv1050- great motor! also I could take 1/2oz of lead off the nose, But she still has two AA batteries in her to get the correct CG.

Being inexperienced at build so I did not cave out battery compartment all the way forward. I had to add a whopping 2.5oz of dead weight at beginning. Not a good pilot either back then so I kept crashing/fixing her but she flew better and better!

At one point I fitted micro retracts that made the AUW to 23oz/650g but lost the fun of flying her. Converted to a belly lander and have a lot of fun again!

The Spit, Zero and 190 are my favorite GWS even though I have not flown them for a long time.
Quote:
Originally Posted by lectroglide View Post
just put this together and thought Id post a pic...........the build was fairly painless however installing the equip. took almost as much time as the model construction but very plezed with the outcome......

hada real hard time getting the CG right and had to use lead weight and some other metal stuff in the nose and still came out a bit tail heavy so hoping it flys ok, gotta 3 blader/nose cone on the way
No dead weight is required for the GWS Zero, Spitfire or any other GWS war-bird! The added weight will just make the plane more SUSCEPTIBLE to crash damage...added dead weight? JUST SAY NO!

It can be done without dead weight. You must be belly landing with all that weight in your zero. I operate all my GWS planes on pavement so dead weight is out of the question. I have 2 GWS zeros and have been flying them for 6 years on pavement. The trick is the lipo position. Also the lipo mount angle is also critical to proper COG. These planes were designed for ni.mh batteries so they appear to be difficult to balance with lipos but in reality its not hard at all once you know the trick.

GWS Spitfire @ 120 watts #2 (2 min 47 sec)
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Last edited by modfly; Nov 27, 2012 at 09:27 PM.
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Old Nov 27, 2012, 09:34 PM
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United States, PA, Philadelphia
Joined Dec 2011
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I didn't even know RCG when I built my Zero. After some difficult flights I started researching on internet for solution and found this site. I changed the incidence angle on the main wing but it's too late to carve out the battery holder. Anyhow, she still flies beautifully at 550g with 75w of power only. At 150W she can be super aerobatic!
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