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Old Oct 29, 2012, 07:36 PM
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str8: I can't imagine a 480 motor on the small Mosa, that would be insane.

"Saving weight" is not an issue here, as the plane needs dead weight up front. When it re-maidens it will have the ESC in front of the firewall (instead of the wing cavity) which will bring the dead-weight back to 1 oz. or so.

As it was, the three motor wires ran in that square channel for the stick. On the re-maiden, that channel will carry the two battery wires to the ESC.

The old (original) scheme required no extra soldering, though it made no provision for cooling of the ESC. The new scheme requires the ESC battery wires to be extended, but moves the ESC's weight up forward where it's most useful.
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Old Oct 29, 2012, 10:41 PM
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Yes, it is fast!!! Got to use an APC prop cause the GWS props distort and I am tired f folks telling me it sounds like a train whistle during TO. I forget the setup on the F2 but on the F1 I run the ESC under the canopy where I have a few cooling pipets running into the fuse.

Thinking of my next park-bird because my GWS F4U is showing some serious wing strain due to running a 4S and the higher G's this entails. The dihedral has gotten steeper and the gull wing presents too many challenges to stiffen it without adding massive weight. Plus there is some serious warp on the right.

Looking at the GWS P-51 now. I see the boys in Ocala have an EPO version. 2 questions:

Does any one know if the wing is thick enough to mount 2x 9gm servos- one for each aileron?

Is the nose big enough for a 28mm Dia 50mm Long motor?
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 07:08 AM
I like the violent stuff!
Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Oct 2004
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I guess this would be the place to ask about orange slofly props. I want to put one on a threaded 5MM prop adapter. Any idea how? Thanks!
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 04:47 PM
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Wayne: maybe I'm confused... but any motor with a 5 mm shaft is likely to be in a power range that's way beyond what GWS props are intended for.

Like I said, maybe I'm misunderstanding your situation.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 07:03 PM
I like the violent stuff!
Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Oct 2004
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The motor has a 3MM shaft. Prop savers do not keep up with my style of flying. So I put on a collet type prop adapter with a 5MM thread on it. It's a 26g motor pulling about 70w, slofly works good. It's obvious the only thing to do is drill it out. So does anyone have words of wisdom on drilling it out? Thanks!
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 07:44 PM
Fly it low.. and fly it fast!
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United States, MA, Westport
Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingin' Wayne View Post
The motor has a 3MM shaft. Prop savers do not keep up with my style of flying. So I put on a collet type prop adapter with a 5MM thread on it. It's a 26g motor pulling about 70w, slofly works good. It's obvious the only thing to do is drill it out. So does anyone have words of wisdom on drilling it out? Thanks!
Take your time with it so you don't stray off center from the original hole. I've ruined a prop or two..... (or 8 or 9)... by rushing through it only to find that my larger hole is NOT centered with the prop.... it's near impossible to balance them well once this happens. But that's strictly with the GWS brand. Most others have spacers you can insert into the hub to accommodate different diameter prop shafts. SO if you drilled the hole a little too large or whatnot, you can just use the spacer to center the hole again.

But yeah, since we're talking GWS props, just take your time drilling it out to the larger diameter. If you have a drill press, this is much easier, but I do not, so I just take my cordless hand drill and have at it.
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Old Oct 30, 2012, 07:53 PM
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United States, FL, Monroe
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Wingin' Wayne View Post
The motor has a 3MM shaft. Prop savers do not keep up with my style of flying. So I put on a collet type prop adapter with a 5MM thread on it. It's a 26g motor pulling about 70w, slofly works good. It's obvious the only thing to do is drill it out. So does anyone have words of wisdom on drilling it out? Thanks!
I had been using an awl blade on my large Swiss Army knife for GWS blades.
I recently bought a hand reamer ($4) at Harbor Freight, it works much better.
http://www.harborfreight.com/t-handle-reamer-66936.html
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 06:23 AM
I like the violent stuff!
Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Oct 2004
1,204 Posts
Actually I have a mini mill and lathe. Since I want to make a bunch, the thing to do is make a precision drill jig out of a 2x4. Made a few for big APC props, should be the same. Thanks for your responses. Happy landings!
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 06:47 AM
Parkzone collector supreme
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Any news on shipping from factory?
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Old Oct 31, 2012, 08:40 AM
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Use a stepped reamer. It is a solid piece of metal with a series of steps that get larger & larger.

Advantage is the reamer is ALWAYS centered in the prop hole as you drill the next larger size.

Lots of places sell them. .Harbor fright is fine.
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Old Nov 01, 2012, 06:40 AM
I like the violent stuff!
Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Oct 2004
1,204 Posts
Stepped reamer is a good idea. I'll give it a try. I'm a full time machinist, mini shop in garage is last resort. A drill jig holds the prop on center and keeps it stationary while you drill it. But why make it if a simple reamer will do? Thanks for the idea.
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Old Nov 01, 2012, 10:34 AM
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Taiwan, 北市
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There are new GWS props available that are with spacers for fitting different shaft diameters. http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1762279 I think that these R ones are designed for quadcopters. I recall that many of their 3-blade props are with spacers as well.
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Old Nov 01, 2012, 06:08 PM
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United States, IL, Joliet
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GWS A-10 in the classifieds for sale....tempting
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Old Nov 02, 2012, 06:58 AM
I like the violent stuff!
Costa Mesa, CA
Joined Oct 2004
1,204 Posts
Hey Chen thats exactly what I need! Thanks a lot!
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Old Nov 04, 2012, 12:24 AM
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Taiwan, 北市
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My pleasure ! Wayne
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