Dir Sir/Madam,

We apologize our first mold did not match your original specifications and expectation.
We have since then revamped our manufacturing process and have spackled the mold. We have also drilled it and added a wooden dowl (despite the fact our office staff thinks it looks like a cement Popsicle).

Please watch up your voltage system when you are loading the mold into your die.

We are sending it to you via HK Post and you can expect to receive it in no more than 14 days. Shall you not receive it in this time frame, please do not contact us until 45 days have passed.

The rest of this post was left intentionally blank.

Originally Posted by bartricky

Your volcano looks good.

A product I haven't used but gets rave reviews for making molds is Durhams Water Putty.
http://www.homedepot.com/buy/durham-...l#.UGurH8Uahn8

I will have to try that. I actually do really need to stop by there to get some of this Reflectix stuff to make wing bags...

Lookin pretty good now!

I would do one last light skim by hand. Just put it on and scrape it off, so you get any last little imperfections. After that, it will probably have a better "factory finish" than the entire plane.

haha, thank you! Will do. The whole contraption is still pretty wet so I had to leave it alone until tomorrow. Of course at $3.50 a cowl this little experimentation probably makes no sense but it was fun nonetheless, and I really did want to give it a try.

Having said that, and given that it was fun, the next Mosa kit that I get I may have to create a mold out of the entire Plane...

Originally Posted by gordynic

looks nice..... been at Marham long? son in law works there...... in the process of building an EPO FW190 myself at the moment, and have recently built a T6

Thanks Nic.
Iv neem at Marham 3years. Model club here is pretty good and quite active! do ou know where your Son in law works at marham?
I really like the FW190's
I have a GWS Cargotrans i need to "sort out" after someones botched build.

Originally Posted by lord chris

Thanks Nic.
Iv neem at Marham 3years. Model club here is pretty good and quite active! do ou know where your Son in law works at marham?
I really like the FW190's
I have a GWS Cargotrans i need to "sort out" after someones botched build.

he works in the tower... fat farmer FOM you'll probably know him can't say much more on here , persec and all that..... Ive got a cargo trans as well, now flying it on a 3s 800mah lipo. might get round to painting it one day fun to fly and realistic from a distance if you squint your eyes

Help, Brand new at this. I have two slow sticks. There is a problem with the vertical stabilizers breaking. Any idea why? I glued them to the fuselage. The glue held; the fabric and /or foam broke above where the stabilizer was attached.

Thanks for your thoughts.

Pete, I think the vert stab is vulnerable to breakage if the SS noses over and ends up upside down, or perhaps even in a stiff crosswind, just 'cause it's really thin foam that isn't well supported. I've always glued on carbon fiber stuts at a 45 degree angle beginning at the center of the vert stab down to the horizontal stab for a solution.

How about reinforcing the stabilizer itself with a credit card or cardboard(not my ideas, got them off the internet)
How did you attach the struts. I have a little bit of fiber glass rod but its very thin (used it on the wings) Not clear how you would go about attaching.

Hi Pete,
Probably Phoam meant that you glue the fiber-glass or carbon rod to the tail feathers, with its one end to the vertical stab and the other end to the horizontal stab, and do the same on the other side of the vertical & horizontal stab. These will make two triangles if you look at the tail from the rear end of your Slow Stick to its nose after gluing the two rods.

I think your way works, too. I did glue a piece of bamboo skewer to the side of vertical stab, make the skewer penetrate the horizontal stab, for my buddy couple months ago, it worked so far. Phoam's way works best, and makes your SS look more classical.

Originally Posted by dmccalmon

I just picked this up from Tower Hobbies, they had a $25 off any $50 purchase coupon code, so I got this for half retail.

Here's a link to the plane and the motor's specs. I'm not exactly sure which version of the 350C motor plane comes with, it looks like there are 6 versions (2/1/A/B/C/D)
[

Hi Don, there's a capital letter shown on its spur gear, the plastic one. I'd guess it is the "C" gear. So you'll know of its performance by referring to the specs. Better to use the prop that works more effectively, more thrust output but fewer Amps drawn, and be reminded to cut off power earlier than the LVC of the ESC, as it might have been designed to LVC at 3.2V totally, but 3.8 or 3.7V each cell is good for lipo.

Originally Posted by twn Chen

Hi Don, there's a capital letter shown on its spur gear, the plastic one. I'd guess it is the "C" gear. So you'll know of its performance by referring to the specs. Better to use the prop that works more effectively, more thrust output but fewer Amps drawn, and be reminded to cut off power earlier than the LVC of the ESC, as it might have been designed to LVC at 3.2V totally, but 3.8 or 3.7V each cell is good for lipo.

Thanks for that tip. Never thought to look on the gear.

EPO Formosa-II arrived tonight, lightning delivery from headsuprc.

I was a bit annoyed to find that my memory from the first two was exactly correct. GWS just completely dropped the ball with the landing gear attachment on this plane, even to the point of completely ignoring the issue in their manual. Sigh. I knew that. I was just hoping I'd mis-remembered.

The other change from the first two is that GWS has decided to ditch the box. The plane's bits are simply stuffed into a large plastic bag. I guess it saves shipping costs, but alas a number of parts were dinged from rubbing against one another.

Just venting a bit here. I'll come up with something or other for the LG, and the dings are no big deal... on par with the sort of hangar rash you'd expect after a few outings.

I just built my second Mosa II and the first EPO one only a few weeks back. It is weird becuase I got mine from headsuprc as well and it came with a box... What is the serial number on it?

On the first Mosa II build i simply used parkzone t-28 mains at wolfe's recommendation. They fit right in there (and I have secured it with drilled ply as well). So If you are lazy, you can go down that route. I liked it but it wasn't providing as much prop clearance for my weed field.

On this Mosa build I used the provided plastic pieces, made a rectangular hole in ply and secured them this way. I then drilled them and used fairly thick piano wire with 2-3/4 dubro wheels. I love it! It took maybe an hour to do. There are pics a few pages back.

Of course they are those that advocate dropping the wheels altogether.

If you are going to paint it anyway, you can use the opportunity to spackle the holes. I also really like how it came out with 2 applications of wpbu (before and after the paint) at Vince's recommendation. Definitely makes the Plane hangar rash proof, more rigid in the air, and a bit crash proof as well (tested first hand last week). Added weight is negligible compared to the added strength. I am definitely going to do it on future foam planes.

Good luck! Let us know how it goes... I am hoping to fix mine tomorrow as a test bed for the new Futaba radio,,,

Originally Posted by pete41

How about reinforcing the stabilizer itself with a credit card or cardboard(not my ideas, got them off the internet)
How did you attach the struts. I have a little bit of fiber glass rod but its very thin (used it on the wings) Not clear how you would go about attaching.

I just epoxied thin carbon fiber rods to the tailplane by holding them up where the rods will be positioned after they're cut to size, and made marks with an ink pen on the stabs. Then I dabbed a bit of 6-minute epoxy, about button-size, where I made the marks (one at a time), let it set a few mins then inserted the rods into the epoxy and held in place til the epoxy hardened. Then I let it set for about an hour before flipping the fuse to epoxy the other 3 contact points. It holds up well. Be sure to clean the surfaces with alcohol prior to the epoxy.

Your fiberglass rods will work just the same. 2mm is about the right size.

In this link I explain how I built the main wing, but from the photo you can see my tailplane struts. Also note the vertical flat carbon rod at the back of the vert stab making it virtually impossible to fold the vert stab. It compliments the struts and helps to stiffen the rudder too:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=14369