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Old Aug 23, 2012, 01:16 PM
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Leabres:

My new favorite motor for GWS G1 warbirds is 28x36 in can size, kv from 1000 to 1200. You can easily find them from many different vendors on Ebay. I used to have five TP 2409 KV1600 but got tired of re-tightening the mount screw after every flight and have to wait 5 minutes for the motor to cool down between flight. So I moved a 2836-1100 from my balsa Pitts to my Zero; what a huge make over! A little heavier than the TP 2409 but much more efficient, low heat and longer flight time. Not a speed demon but can fly scale or aerobatic nicely. My test is 300w on 11x5 APC with 1200g+ trust ( My Pitts' AUW is close to 1000g and the motor give me vertical easily). I down prop to HD 9050 on the Zero so I get 10min flight time on a 3S 1200 and still enough vertical. I bought two new ones from ebay a month ago for $7 each and will install them into my Corsair and P40 with 3 blades. You should try them.

Also, I found EDF is a big magnet for crowd. I heard "nice flying" sometimes "ooh,,," when people seeing my aerobatic/3D flying but got loud "WOW" all the time with my EDF. I think your 4S batteries are prefect for FMS F16 or GWS F15 or J10. I have the F16 and the sound of EDF spinning up is just amazing. But flying an EDF is boring.
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 03:50 PM
Shelter Kitty "Orange Death"
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United States, FL, Monroe
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vince_TT View Post
Also, I found EDF is a big magnet for crowd. I heard "nice flying" sometimes "ooh,,," when people seeing my aerobatic/3D flying but got loud "WOW" all the time with my EDF. I think your 4S batteries are prefect for FMS F16 or GWS F15 or J10. I have the F16 and the sound of EDF spinning up is just amazing. But flying an EDF is boring.
I got the most positive comments when I flew my Stryker. All it did was zoom around and made noise.

Flying a beautifully covered balsa kit... nothing.
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 06:48 PM
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+1000 Flying a beautifully covered balsa kit... nothing.

But I did have some seniors stopped by looking at my FW190 and Corsair.. and said their relatives were in the WWII flying them. Very cool!!!
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Old Aug 23, 2012, 08:46 PM
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Do you fly for the kudos or for the joy of flying? Or the joy of building?

Flyboys are kinda shallow at times... impressed by size, noise, and almost any kind of warbird.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 10:01 AM
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sounds like where I fly.....it's mostly, " look at this expensive plane I bought and built, but am too scared to fly off the street cuz of curbs. But I brought it anyway to compensate. Now watch me fly my Wildcat".
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 02:31 AM
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The Netherlands, ZH, Wassenaar
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Formosa motor choice

Yeah, my Formosa started with the Towerpro 24109-12T 1600KV because I read that this particular motor was the best for GWS Warbirds. I thought I could build a fast Formosa since there are several Youtube vids of Mosas doing pylon racing.

The TP 2409-12T motor gets hot fast on aggressive flying to the point you can't touch it for a second. Even without constant WOT, the motor still gets very warm after 4 minutes. I tried it a 2S with a larger prop. I could fly slower with more thrust but I get nervous thinking I'm just always right above the stall speed and looking back, I probably had 5 to 7 recoverable stalls per flight.

So, the 2409-12T is not at all the right choice for a Mosa but probably a better fit for the Spit or Corsair.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 02:49 AM
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World's Ugliest Motor Mount

So, after two severe nose plants and softening of the firewall foam, didn't want to spend too much time on the Mosa since after one more crash (or two or three), I will probably strip it and donate the body/wings.

Instead of making a wood firewall, I just threw the stick mount back into it along with some other pieces of 10mm stick and it's just as strong, just as solid as new, if not stronger. Besides, after the cowl is installed no one will see!
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Last edited by TheLeabres; Aug 25, 2012 at 08:15 AM. Reason: added info
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 09:11 AM
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I’m now really struggling to get the EPO Formosa 2 to balance at anything close to the recommended CoG at 115mm back from the wing root. I have a standard build without the landing gear and with the motor mounted infront of where the cowl would finish it only balances with the battery 3 inches infront of the battery bay, or without the large rudder! Even if I mounted the rear servos under the wing (rather than use the rear cutouts) it does not come in anything like close.



Also this standard build with servos only leaves me 200grams before I have exceeded the recommended auw - so I'm wondering if the weight in the manual is right for the epo version!

I don’t think I can have messed up too much at this point so I’d really like to hear from anyone who has built one of these EPO version recently and managed to get the battery in the battery bay and what the auw was.

Many thanks

nick
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:02 AM
I live my life 12oz at a time
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Not to worry. With some tweaking you will be ok!

What motor are you using? To balance that long fuse, you need a motor at least in the 100G (if not more) range. I am using a 150G motor and needed to add weight in the back so you need something in between.

I don't think you need to worry about the AUW (in a sense that it may be too conservative). I fly a Mosa "Tank" and she still glides like a glider (even with an e-flite power 15, 4 * 17G servos, 3000mah bat).

To get the CG right, how much weight do you need to add in the nose? It can't be that much (if you put it as much fwd as you can). Also, try and put your ESC/BEC as fwd as you can.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:06 PM
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No need to struggle. First, accept the fact that these GWS foamies were molded before lipos became cheap and popular. The battery bays were designed for heavy nicads or nimhs.

With that, you're forced to get creative on where to put the lipo. You may have to cut out some to enlarge the bay or find a long slender lipo? Search for Zippy Compact Lipo. They're made smaller in size for smaller compartments but still carry the mAh capacity.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:45 PM
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Hi,

Thanks for the re-assuring replies, so the bottom line is that the manual shipped is not really for the epo version, although the cog is the same its no easy to get the battery to fit in the bay without adding lots of weight.

My auw is 28oz, the airframe (+servos) is 16oz, the battery/prop/spinner/motor/esc is 12 oz. With the motor/prop on the end of 10cm of extension the cog is reached with the battery infront of the batt bay.

Are these sort of settings in the same ball park as yours (just checking before I butcher the fuz )

Thanks for your help - should not be necessary is gws were on it!

nick
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:32 PM
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12 Oz of weight for the power plant in Mosa II's size range seems light to me. I have built EPO GWS 190 (similar size to Mosa II) with 4oz motor, 60A ESC, 11x8 Props, custom spinner, 3S 2650 mAh battery, metal geared servos, custom flaps and retracts bringing the AUW to 34 OZ and she still flies beautifully. If I were you, I would build a plywood mount with blind nuts to secure the motor, the ESC will hang under the motor mount, and glassed the cowl. This way is better than adding dead weight.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:49 PM
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To add to to Vince's comments, that "mount" looks way too long! It seems like the motor would stick completely out of the cowl! My ply mount only extends 22mm out of the fuse.

What is the weight of the motor alone and how much watt does it puts out?
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 05:08 PM
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Mosa II EPO Kit impressions

First, I am suing GWS for false advertising . The big block of foam that was meant to be shaped as a spinner is still EPS... Of course, who cares. They could save some $ and not include it. Does anyone actually use it? I doubt it.

The kit comes with a 2010 GWS catalog?! Either it is an indication of when my kit was manufactured or the GWS line-up haven't changed since 2010...

The canopy is fine, but the cowl has this yucky oldish yellow looking tint (of aging plastic). Not to worry, it gets painted anyway. Maybe it is an indication the kit is in fact from 2010.

Additional differences between the EPO and EPS one:

- The LG is much longer (about 1.5”). No wonder I was complaining about clearance with 12” props with the EPS kit. As such, I actually decided to give the stock LG a try as oppose to the T-28 parkzone LG I used in the previous build. Not wanting to commit to liking the stock LG, I just hot glued it in. It means that it will fall over time! But that is ok. I actually think there is benefit to making sure that on a hard landing there is some flex and if the LG break off from the foam it doesn't take the wing with it.

- The EPO fuse seems much stronger and resilient. For example, the EPS one got depressions merely from the tape used to hold the two fuse pieces together. Similarly the EPO fuse has almost no lateral flex whereas the EPS one did.

- The tail gear doesn't include the tiny plastic piece that gets glued to the fuse in addition to the bracket. I wish it was included. I think it makes the tail assembly stronger.

Kit quality: It was odd. The wing base is too small. It is missing 3 4 mm on each side to fully cover the fuse. That also meant that the wing screw didn't align with the nut and I had to drill the wing alignment pin so that the screw aligns with the nut. Similarly the rudder was too long and I had to trim about 5mm of it on the bottom. In addition, the rudder edge doesn't fully align and cover the fuse. No biggy. Just surprising. The EPS kit fit was perfect. Maybe it is a one off.
One the other hand, it is nice to see that the holes from the mold are actually covered. I am not sure how they do it, but the bottom of the wings, the rudder don't have those 1” large holes from the mold. It is almost like after the foam was taken out of the mold, someone spackled foam into the hole from the mold...

The stock LG wire area for the wheels is annoyingly short, it was almost impossible to put the wheels on, make sure they turn nicely and also lock them with a collar. I am sure the collars are likely to fall soon, as they don't have enough to grip on. The EPS kit was much better in that regards. The tail gear was so short I didn't even have enough wire to even lock it with a collar. I had to CA a wire tube to lock it in place.

It is absolutely a relief to be able to use CA and pretty much any paint you want without it melting the foam.

Some improvements I made this time around in the build:
- I epoxied the fuse as oppose to use the GWS glue. GWS glue breaks apart if you need to boil the plane... I actually didn't use rubber cement in this build at all (but rather just CA, Epoxy, and GG). If you wipe any epoxy dripping with alcohol right away, it would not leave any marks and would cleanly come off.
- The bottom cavity in the nose use to drive me crazy. It is a really weak point. It doesn't make a difference for the structural integrity of the plane, but over time if it breaks, it is a pain to fix and to maintain going forward. To improve it I stuffed it with a fitting piece from the foam block provided with the kit.
- I trimmed the elevator to make sure I get at 45 degrees for the rudder.. When hinging I made sure I get at least 45 degrees on the elevator as well... This should make “Elevator” and KE better.
- I love the affect of wbpu. It made the fuse and wing even stronger. I did exactly what Vince suggested and it works great (wpbu, paint, wbpu). Given the amount that I have used, and the strength that it has added, the added weight is insignificant.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 06:06 PM
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Joined Nov 2011
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The new Mosa 2 is basically complete. I am waiting on a new Motor and a new RX, but should be ready for weekend flying. Here is the spec of the new one. It is slightly inferior to her demised sister:

Rx: Spektrum AR400 (vs. AR8000 in the previous one). Slightly nervous about this one given the field I fly in. Hopefully, other than the number of channels the signal would be just as good. May pick up the 6210 in the last minute for its separate sat.
Motor: Power Up 15 (vs. E-flite Power 15 in the previous one). The e-flite one is dead as its bell got wrapped .
ESC: Exceed RC Proton 40A (vs. 60A in the previous one).
BEC: No BEC (for now)...
Batteries: Turnigy 3000mah 30C and Glacier 30C 2600mAh.
Servos: 4 * New Power 9G MG servos (vs. 17G Digital MG in the previous one...).
Hinges: Dubro Nylon #116 for rudder and elevator. CA hinges for the ailerons.

Will upload photos as soon as the motor and Rx are installed.
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