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Old Jun 08, 2012, 06:47 PM
In thrust we trust
phoam's Avatar
Aguanga, Ca
Joined Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnav View Post
Does this means the Mosa 2 I just built (which had glue in it) is 3 years old?
Isn't yours made of EPO? I believe they just started making the EPO versions this year.

Or am I wrong to assume that?
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 07:10 PM
I live my life 8oz at a time..
arnav's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Nov 2011
2,521 Posts
Yes it is EPO. That is exactly my point. It was said that GWS has not been including glue for the past three years yet mine did include glue (and like you said it is a newer EPO one)...

BTW, while we are on the topic of EPO, i find the GWS EPO to be too soft (especially the bottom part of the wing). Hold it too tightly and you would get finger shaped dents in the foam... This was not the case on my FMS Foam.

I only have 15 or so flights on my Mosa and the bottom of the wing already look like .

I don't mean to undermine the Plane, just that I want to build another one and treat it like a golden egg...

If it wasn't for the weight, I can totally see why someone would want to glass it.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 07:58 PM
I live my life 8oz at a time..
arnav's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Nov 2011
2,521 Posts
btw, I got my own watt meter in the mail today (hey I only started 6 months) so of course I had to benchmark the Mosa. So eager that I did it with a battery in storage mode as oppose to a full one. I will repeat it again. Nonetheless here are the results:

10x6 (what I still fly with, maybe this weekend I'll prop up in support of KE):

Amp: 20
Peak Amp: 31
Watt: 220
Peak Watt: 350.

11x5.5:

Amp: 20.5
Peak Amp: 36
Watt: 220
Peak Watt: 406

12x8:

Amp: 31.5
Peak Amp:46.5
Watt:: N/A
Peak Watt:512 (doesn't see to add up 9.9 * 46.5 = 460W)

Done with a power 15 and 3S 3000mah 30C Turnigies
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 08:43 PM
Shelter Kitty "Orange Death"
bartricky's Avatar
United States, FL, Monroe
Joined Jan 2008
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What is the definition of Amps vs Peak Amps?
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 08:50 PM
I live my life 8oz at a time..
arnav's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Nov 2011
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From the manual that came with it:

"Amps value displayed is the average current over the last screen update interval. Peak Amps Value displayed is the maximum current drawn from the load side, since the meter's startup.

So basically average vs. maximum.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 08:54 PM
Shelter Kitty "Orange Death"
bartricky's Avatar
United States, FL, Monroe
Joined Jan 2008
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Quote:
Originally Posted by arnav View Post
From the manual that came with it:

"Amps value displayed is the average current over the last screen update interval. Peak Amps Value displayed is the maximum current drawn from the load side, since the meter's startup.

So basically average vs. maximum.
OK, Kinda thought that might be the case, mine doesn't do that.
That would be handy if you measure the entire flight.
What meter is it?
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 09:02 PM
I live my life 8oz at a time..
arnav's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Nov 2011
2,521 Posts
It is the Turnigy one (as oppose to the more expensive Watts-up one):
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...dProduct=10080

It doesn't say it on the site, but it also measures:

Amps
Peak Amps
Volt
Minimum volt (i.e. sag)
Energy (in Watt-hours)
Charge (in Amp-hours)
Power (in watts and peak watts)

So basically you can measure:
- Load
- Battery charging
- Battery Discharging
- Receiver and Servo Testing

Not bad for $23 (I think)...
Which one do you have?
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Last edited by arnav; Jun 08, 2012 at 11:05 PM.
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Old Jun 08, 2012, 11:53 PM
build,fly,crash,repeat
dragraces's Avatar
Cincinnati Ohio
Joined Apr 2005
240 Posts
C130

Quote:
Originally Posted by whowhatwhere View Post
Oh yeah, the Corsair came yesterday...time to get obsessed again. And with all the discussion on the C130 I'm reminded I haven't flown mine for some time now. Gotta get 'er down and charged up. If I recall, it was not particularly fond of any wind at all...tricky, since these days it seems to be windy *all* the time.

A quick shot of the Zero...battery is in the wrong spot (I moved it into the nose) and I have an 8040 3-blade prop on it. It's one sweet flying machine. The 2nd pic is a shot of what I did to compensate for the AoI problem, dropped the h-stab TE 5mm.
Pulled mine off the shelf after 2 years and you are correct it does not like any wind!
It flies very graceful. I love it
U need to pull it down again,Im glad i did.

Jason
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Old Jun 09, 2012, 12:09 AM
Doing it in the Lateral Axis
modfly's Avatar
USA, OH, Akron
Joined Dec 2006
15,360 Posts
I used that glue on a GWS DH Beaver fuse several years ago and it still holding up although I remember it took a good while to set up. I will check how many tubes I have laying around..I know a HS that has a few GWS DH and Cub kits in stock with the glue I believe.

Beaver Float plane crash (0 min 21 sec)


this video is old (2006) and has no sound but has a good float landing
GWS Beaver on Floats doing a water landing (0 min 17 sec)
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Old Jun 09, 2012, 07:55 AM
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United States, IL, Joliet
Joined Jul 2011
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I took took out some incedence from the wing mounting area on a friends Beaver. He never really liked how it flew...seems to need alot of rudder action to get it to turn nicely...and there's so much dihedral too....weird to fly...
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Old Jun 09, 2012, 09:20 PM
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USA, MO, O'Fallon
Joined Dec 2003
2,077 Posts
I used to hate that GWS glue until I figured out how to use it. It does take a little longer to set up than epoxy, but is a LOT lighter and is more flexible (so less cracking). Now there are plenty of foam glues available, which is good because I have used all my GWS glue up.
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Old Jun 09, 2012, 09:56 PM
I live my life 8oz at a time..
arnav's Avatar
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Nov 2011
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Yeah, I am confused why people say it takes long time to set (or any rubber glue for that matter). If you are serious about your epoxy, then you would use a 3hr, 6hr, 12hr. or even 24hr epoxy (for fiberglass) and that is long time!

If you just drip it on something (like the GWS instructions say) it will never dry. If you smear it on two parts and then join them right away, it will never dry.

You need to apply it to the parts and then wait until the glue is dry to the touch which may be a few minutes (just like epoxy!). Technically you suppose to let them dry 20 mins before joining and if you wanted you can leave it like that separated up to an hour. Those who say rubber cement (AKA GWS Glue) doesn't dry, is this how they use it?

But hey, who am I to "defend" rubber cement. Epoxy is my best friend....
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Old Jun 09, 2012, 10:34 PM
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TheLeabres's Avatar
India, DL, New Delhi
Joined Sep 2010
820 Posts
I've never used GWS glue, have about 5 unopened tubes from kits. It sounds very close like UHU POR, apply a pape thin later, wait a minute, join the halves and apply an even constant pressure for a minute or two and the bond is solid. It's what I use to join the fuselage on all my kits. Also less weight than epoxy.
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Old Jun 09, 2012, 11:03 PM
Doing it in the Lateral Axis
modfly's Avatar
USA, OH, Akron
Joined Dec 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheLeabres View Post
I've never used GWS glue, have about 5 unopened tubes from kits. It sounds very close like UHU POR, apply a pape thin later, wait a minute, join the halves and apply an even constant pressure for a minute or two and the bond is solid. It's what I use to join the fuselage on all my kits. Also less weight than epoxy.
Well, as far as the weight of the epoxy I really don't think thats much of an issue. I mean how much lighter are we talking here? 3-5 grams? this kind of weight is insignificant in a model of this size. I have flown some of these GWS birds back in the old days when we used ni-mh batteries, As a matter of fact, A lot of the GWS birds were designed to use those old batteries so upgrading to a lipo pretty much is the way to go to save weight. A few grams either way on these planes makes no measurable difference as far as I can see. I built my Beaver with the GWS glue and that was the last time I used it as it just took too long to dry no matter how you slice it.
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Old Jun 10, 2012, 12:01 AM
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TheLeabres's Avatar
India, DL, New Delhi
Joined Sep 2010
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I think I'll open up one of the GWS glue tubes and see what all the rage is about - is it too liquidy, too viscous, too anything. I'll make a quick video to see how it compares to UHU POR.

These days, modelers need to be online on RCGroups all the time and can't wait hours or overnight waiting for GWS glue to cure. If that's the case, it's unreasonable now to use this type of glue especially with 5 min epoxy and quick set CA readily available.

Don't have the emperical data but I just think UHU POR and GWS glue provide a "deeper" bond, like roots from both halves coming across and interlacing. I use my old tennis grip tapes, soft and cushiony, stretchy to clamp my fuses together while UHU POR cures. I've experimented with it on EPS and EPP and sometimes it's done in a minute. It's like the inner tube patch method, done in 30 seconds, and holds back 50 psi.
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Last edited by TheLeabres; Jun 10, 2012 at 02:49 AM.
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