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Old Dec 14, 2011, 03:45 AM
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London
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Originally Posted by nogas View Post
Hey DJ,

To change the motor are you removing the hatch (just behind the turtle deck)???

I have removed the turtle deck (to make room for the 1800 3S) and it was only glued down the sides so quite easy to cut out but i've cut around the edges of the hatch and its still not budging, so i'm thinking it may be glued on the bottom which i cant cut out so not sure how to remove it.
You have too remove the hatch that holds the motor mount in place. It's a bit of a pain. I used a sharp blade and wedged it underneath from the side and the back and then pried it off.

What motor are you planing on putting in?
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 03:49 AM
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London
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Originally Posted by WitnessOnly View Post
Hi all,


I'm looking forward to more flying on this little guy, I'm running the recommended 2S 1300 and its a pleasure to fly at that weight, I'm not in any great hurry to heat this one up, I think it's quite a pleasure to fly just as it it is.

Oh, and what control horn hole are we using? Cheers.
Do you mean 3s 1300?

I'm using the outer holes on the control horns with some expo on ailerons as they are very sensitive.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 04:20 AM
Glow 😡 no no no
Australia, SA, Evanston Park
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I got all the turtle decks off and the motor screws werent tight so it was just as well I checked.
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 06:17 AM
Because gas is for BBQ's
nogas's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Feb 2011
729 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by DerkJohn View Post
You have too remove the hatch that holds the motor mount in place. It's a bit of a pain. I used a sharp blade and wedged it underneath from the side and the back and then pried it off.

What motor are you planing on putting in?
Is that the small hatch at the rear that goes over the motor or the wide hatch that is just in front of that?

motor choice atm is same as yours, but just on 3S to start with.

Quote:
Originally Posted by aeromaniac View Post
I got all the turtle decks off and the motor screws werent tight so it was just as well I checked.
How'd you get the big wide hatch off? was it just glued around the edges?
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 07:32 AM
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FYI Back in stock!
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 10:57 AM
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London
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Originally Posted by nogas View Post
Is that the small hatch at the rear that goes over the motor or the wide hatch that is just in front of that?

motor choice atm is same as yours, but just on 3S to start with.



How'd you get the big wide hatch off? was it just glued around the edges?
3s should be great fun to start with, and it will have enough power for limitless vertical performance on an apc 6*4E prop

Oh, I forgot to mention you will have to loosen the grub screw at the back of the motor and remove the cir clip to push the shaft through for the standard mount. You will also need a 5mm collet instead of the cir-clip as there is no groove on the end of the shaft.

The small hatch that sits over the motor mount is the one that needs to come off. The bigger one came off a lot easier, I just ran a blade around it and pried it off. Be sure to remove the bit of foam that surrounds the motor as it seriously limits cooling. Might not be too much of a problem on 3s though. I used medium cyno and kicker to glue it all back together.

Have fun!
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 06:43 PM
Pony Express
United States, IL, Cary
Joined Jul 2011
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Where are you guys getting your 6x4E props and prop savers? Are they the 2mm savers?
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Old Dec 14, 2011, 07:54 PM
Because gas is for BBQ's
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Feb 2011
729 Posts
I dremelled out the fuse to take the 3S 1800 (made enough room for a 4S 2200) and glued the wings on last night. I fitted a 4mm CF spar to strengthen the wing join as well.

The stock esc wires (motor side) are slightly long (and bunch up blocking airflow) now the battery is pushed up the fuselage, is there any reason i cant shorten them? I know some esc's require a minimum length to motor and at the moment i've only got about 100mm from motor to esc.


Quote:
Originally Posted by DerkJohn View Post
3s should be great fun to start with, and it will have enough power for limitless vertical performance on an apc 6*4E prop

Oh, I forgot to mention you will have to loosen the grub screw at the back of the motor and remove the cir clip to push the shaft through for the standard mount. You will also need a 5mm collet instead of the cir-clip as there is no groove on the end of the shaft.

The small hatch that sits over the motor mount is the one that needs to come off. The bigger one came off a lot easier, I just ran a blade around it and pried it off. Be sure to remove the bit of foam that surrounds the motor as it seriously limits cooling. Might not be too much of a problem on 3s though. I used medium cyno and kicker to glue it all back together.

Have fun!
Great, thats good news, 4S looks like 'RAD' fun but too quick for me atm. Do you think a 45A esc will be ok with that motor and a 6x4e?

APC and TGS are just manufacturers yeah?? I have a few 6x4E TGS props for my Bixler, will they do?

OK, so excuse my ignorance (new to planes) but what is the 5mm collet doing and where does it go and where would i get one? Also, i want to get a prop saver set up for this thing (looks like a prop killer, especially with a 6" prop) how do i work out what i need. Are they just sized off the motor shaft diameter?

Thanks for the tips on the hatches, i'll get stuck into them tonight.
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 12:19 AM
Because gas is for BBQ's
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Feb 2011
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DJ - After some research i am guessing the 5mm collet you are talking about is for the prop adaptor that comes with the motor?? Where do i get one that suits that prop adaptor? or should i just get a 5mm prop adaptor or prop saver?

Also can someone tell me where the 2 aileron servo plugs go in the Rx? Ch 1 and 2 i figure? and then i just mix the channels?
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Last edited by nogas; Dec 15, 2011 at 12:46 AM.
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 02:43 AM
Glow 😡 no no no
Australia, SA, Evanston Park
Joined Mar 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nogas View Post
DJ - After some research i am guessing the 5mm collet you are talking about is for the prop adaptor that comes with the motor?? Where do i get one that suits that prop adaptor? or should i just get a 5mm prop adaptor or prop saver?

Also can someone tell me where the 2 aileron servo plugs go in the Rx? Ch 1 and 2 i figure? and then i just mix the channels?
One servo lead goes the elevator and the other in the aileron, do delta mixing on your tranny, that does the mixing for you.

You might need to servo reverse in the tranny to get the servos going in the right direction.
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 07:10 AM
Because gas is for BBQ's
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
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Originally Posted by aeromaniac View Post
One servo lead goes the elevator and the other in the aileron, do delta mixing on your tranny, that does the mixing for you.

You might need to servo reverse in the tranny to get the servos going in the right direction.
Thanks aeromaniac.

OK, so its gone from the RADjet to the BADjet tonight. I was putting the finishing touches on the jet tonight and needed to hook up the Rx to get the servos to centre so i could fit and adjust the elevon push rods. Plugged in the lipo and 'crack', small spark, magic smoke escapes and instantly felt heat through the connectors and wires. #*@!* I quickly pulled the connectors apart and double checked all connections and all seems right.

On closer inspection there is a small chunk out of each of the male connectors and a matching groove in the female side so i figure i've got a short somewhere but where? The Lipo got quite warm too so i checked the volts and seems ok at around 3.83V / cell , so i've stashed it in the lipo sack to chill out (we'll see if its cactus tomorrow when i cycle it)

So, How can i figure out where the issue is? I'm figuring its most likely in the esc but i've heard dodgy servos can cause similar shorts. At $12 a pop for lipos and $20 for the esc, i dont want to be using trial and error.

I've got another esc here but very hesitant to just throw it in, in case theres an issue somewhere else.

EDIT - just pulled the motor wires out and the wires are colour coded. Red, Yellow and Black. The Yellows are matched but the red and blacks are mismatched????? I doubt this is the issue as i know brushless motor wires can be mixed up and the motor still runs but thought i'd get clarification from those in the know.
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Last edited by nogas; Dec 15, 2011 at 07:18 AM.
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 12:25 PM
"Take Off" eh!
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Would like to see some pics of the conectors that got burnt if you can.

The colors on the motor wires dont mean a thing. Many manufactors make them all black wires to avoid confusion.

Is your esc rated to handle 4s?
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 02:43 PM
Because gas is for BBQ's
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
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Standard ESC which has no specs anywhere that i can find (other than its 20A). Its a 3S pack and it was at storage voltage.



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Old Dec 15, 2011, 07:27 PM
"Take Off" eh!
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Wow! she really arced good.

Was that the first time you plugged that particular esc in? Im wondering if the factory wired them backwards
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Old Dec 15, 2011, 08:11 PM
Because gas is for BBQ's
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Australia, QLD, Brisbane
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Yes, first time. If they did wire it backwards would that make it short? I would have thought it just wouldn't work.

I'm thinking if I hook up the new esc and disconnect the servos and the motor when I connect the pack I should eliminate those as a potential problem. Then just connect each servo and then the motor. That way if it shorts again I know where the issue is???
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