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Old Jan 30, 2012, 05:07 PM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
Joined Aug 2008
3,044 Posts
Cut the foam man!! It will fly so much better with the correct CG. Ill bet it will even go Vertical as you want once you balance it correctly. Just take an exacto and chop away.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 05:15 PM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
Joined Aug 2008
3,044 Posts
Dont know if you seen my vid yet...Here it is using a 30amp esc(more than enough)and a 4s 2200 battery with the CG moved to 400mm from the nose. Check near the end of the vid just how slowly you can fly this thing.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=Hcf0q3Ft5M0
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 06:52 AM
Because gas is for BBQ's
nogas's Avatar
Australia, QLD, Brisbane
Joined Feb 2011
729 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_RattleSnake View Post
If the weather is good tomorrow, I will get to maiden my Radjet.

My setup is:

Turnigy 2836 2350kv
Nanotec 4s 1000mah 45-90c
Turnigy Superbrain 60 amp
Apc 5x5

Max rpm : 29k
Max amp: 44amps

Has enough thrust to go full vertical at 1/3 throttle

Ill either have tears of joy or sadness after the maiden.
So or .

My 2836 scares the pants off me on 3S, i cant even imagine it on 4S.
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Old Jan 31, 2012, 09:34 AM
master of the universe
captaingeek's Avatar
USA, CA, Novato
Joined Jul 2008
3,077 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by The_RattleSnake View Post
If the weather is good tomorrow, I will get to maiden my Radjet.

My setup is:

Turnigy 2836 2350kv
Nanotec 4s 1000mah 45-90c
Turnigy Superbrain 60 amp
Apc 5x5

Max rpm : 29k
Max amp: 44amps

Has enough thrust to go full vertical at 1/3 throttle

Ill either have tears of joy or sadness after the maiden.
How'd the maiden go? I have a 60A ESC here I'm waiting to use for somthing.

Also can you take some pics? Where's your CG?

That things gotta be heavy with that motor and ESC.

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Old Feb 01, 2012, 07:27 PM
Flying High Again!
Triptykon's Avatar
United States, CA, Huntington Beach
Joined Sep 2005
199 Posts
I purchased the PNF version of the RadJet.

I am using a 3S 1350mAh lipo and it will be a little nose heavy.

What is the best prop to run on this motor? I'm on disability and can't afford to experiment to much. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks........
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 08:05 PM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
Joined Aug 2008
3,044 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by darklighter View Post
I purchased the PNF version of the RadJet.

I am using a 3S 1350mAh lipo and it will be a little nose heavy.

What is the best prop to run on this motor? I'm on disability and can't afford to experiment to much. Any input would be greatly appreciated.


Thanks........
Im beginning to understand why some people are not willing to just cut some foam out, for the correct CG. I bought the ARF version and all I had to do was remove some foam before installing the top hatch. But you guys that bought the RTF have the top hatch already glued on. You guys should seriously think about cutting the top hatch off about 4" behind the canopy so that you can place the batteries further back. You can install some super earth magnets to hold the new hatch down as Ive done. I know you guys dont want to risk damaging the plane by making a new hatch....But it is almost garenteed that you will damage it if you dont. The Stock CG is just way too nose heavy.

If your running the stock setup..just use the prop that came with it. I believe it is a 4.75x4.75. This will not overload your esc.

Hope this helps
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 08:17 PM
Flying High Again!
Triptykon's Avatar
United States, CA, Huntington Beach
Joined Sep 2005
199 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by vettster View Post
Im beginning to understand why some people are not willing to just cut some foam out, for the correct CG. I bought the ARF version and all I had to do was remove some foam before installing the top hatch. But you guys that bought the RTF have the top hatch already glued on. You guys should seriously think about cutting the top hatch off about 4" behind the canopy so that you can place the batteries further back. You can install some super earth magnets to hold the new hatch down as Ive done. I know you guys dont want to risk damaging the plane by making a new hatch....But it is almost garenteed that you will damage it if you dont. The Stock CG is just way too nose heavy.

If your running the stock setup..just use the prop that came with it. I believe it is a 4.75x4.75. This will not overload your esc.

Hope this helps

I have cut out 2 inches of foam so far to try and get the correct C.G. I am almost there. The correct C.G. according to you guys is 15 inches from the nose of the plane. I am almost there. A little more work. I was just wondering about prop sizes for the stock motor.

Thanks for your input.
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 12:22 AM
Standing Athwart History
roo_ster's Avatar
United States, TX, Dallas
Joined Mar 2011
609 Posts
Have any of y'all tried Welder glue/contact cement?
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 05:55 AM
Registered User
The_RattleSnake's Avatar
Joined Jul 2007
745 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by captaingeek View Post
How'd the maiden go? I have a 60A ESC here I'm waiting to use for somthing.

Also can you take some pics? Where's your CG?

That things gotta be heavy with that motor and ESC.

The weather has been bad the bast 2 weeks, but :

Forecast for the rest of Saturday
Fine and partly cloudy. Light to moderate E to SE winds, tending S to SW in the evening
Bayside: Min 20 Max 29 deg C

So should be good for the maiden tomorrow morning!

All I need to do now is find someone who is brave enough to hold the radar gun and camera :P


Edit* I have also added 2x 10mm wide carbon strips that stiffened up the wing heaps!
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Last edited by The_RattleSnake; Feb 04, 2012 at 06:00 AM.
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 09:59 AM
"Take Off" eh!
vettster's Avatar
Canada, ON, Beeton
Joined Aug 2008
3,044 Posts
Good Luck! Youll have a blast
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 07:14 PM
Registered User
Canada, BC, Squamish
Joined Jul 2009
13 Posts
Despite indications that Welder would eat the EPO foam, I tried a bit inside the fuse as a test and then built the entire plane, other than the carbon wing spars, with it. It looks like as long as you keep it on the mating surfaces, and don't smear it all over where you can see it works fine. There is one small spot that it dullled the surface slightly, not sure if I could even find it again.

Welder has worked so well on my EPP planes, while I have had variable results with foam safe CA, that I plan to use it on all foam planes after a test on each.
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Old Feb 04, 2012, 07:43 PM
Standing Athwart History
roo_ster's Avatar
United States, TX, Dallas
Joined Mar 2011
609 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Guil View Post
Despite indications that Welder would eat the EPO foam, I tried a bit inside the fuse as a test and then built the entire plane, other than the carbon wing spars, with it. It looks like as long as you keep it on the mating surfaces, and don't smear it all over where you can see it works fine. There is one small spot that it dullled the surface slightly, not sure if I could even find it again.

Welder has worked so well on my EPP planes, while I have had variable results with foam safe CA, that I plan to use it on all foam planes after a test on each.
Yep, I have become a Welder fan via my EPP builds. Thanks for the heads-up.
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Old Feb 10, 2012, 02:28 PM
fly and then fly some more!
nickelbn1's Avatar
Springdale, AR
Joined Dec 2006
2,178 Posts
Ok, so what is all this talk about needing to change the shaft on the 2836 motor? Does it come with a prop adapter? Why does it need changed? My buddy just bought one for his skyfun and didnt say he had to change anything. ???
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Old Feb 10, 2012, 03:48 PM
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roo_ster's Avatar
United States, TX, Dallas
Joined Mar 2011
609 Posts
OK, assembled with Welder's last night and had a few observations:

1. Welders will dissolve the paint inside both the skid and the hatch cover. The skid is white paint, so I can't tell where it was eaten, but I can notice one spot on the canopy cover where the black is smudged. Black Sharpie to the rescue.

2. Don't go more than 5 minutes wait time when using Welders as contact cement on the vertical stabs. Went 7-10 minutes on those and nearly couldn't get one in. Also, go easy on the Welders for the vert stabs.

3. If you wait only 5 min when joining the wings, you;ll have to hold on to the wing & fuse for a while before it sets hard enough to let go. If you wait more than 5 min, you;d best position it nearly perfectly and move quick to get it right, as you will have ONE chance.

4. Feeling it this AM after 8 hours' cure time, I like the Welder's bond better than CA. It is more flexible, less brittle.

5. Welders is a bit more messy than CA, but cleans up if you let it gum up, then you can smooge it off with your finger.

6. If I were to use CA, I'd use semi-thick gap-filling CA with baking soda to fill in more gaps and create fillets where things don't join up 100% perfectly.

7. If I had to do it over again, I would likely run with the gap-filling/baking soda trick, due to the gap-filling, fillet-making properties of the thicker CA & BS. Also, the CA/BS/material bond is hella-strong. Welders is not a great gap-filler. I would sacrifice some flex, but I think that is less important with non-EPP foam.

8. The foam mostly goes back to shape when smooshed. Not 100% though. I dropped the fuse off the table with only one wing on on to the floor and I can tell where the foam compressed. I was able to mostly push it back in place, but there is a sign it had some trauma.

=========================

Assembling it and holding it, it is a bit intimidating. With its mass and small wings, it is going to want to MOVE.

I have the PNP model, mostly assembled. What are the best ways to cut in intake & exhaust air vents without butchering the model?
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Old Feb 10, 2012, 04:05 PM
master of the universe
captaingeek's Avatar
USA, CA, Novato
Joined Jul 2008
3,077 Posts
no need to make vents just P lug N Play.
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