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Old Jan 09, 2012, 04:23 PM
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USA, CO, Golden
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Another question for you guys lol one of the wires that connects the battery connector to the circuit board broke off at the board. I remember some where in the thread someone was talking about how they took of the original wires and replaced them. Is there a special technique to this so I don't melt the board? Do I just melt the solder, pull out the old wires, melt it again and put in the new wires?
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 05:03 PM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
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Originally Posted by Madman133 View Post
Another question for you guys lol one of the wires that connects the battery connector to the circuit board broke off at the board. I remember some where in the thread someone was talking about how they took of the original wires and replaced them. Is there a special technique to this so I don't melt the board? Do I just melt the solder, pull out the old wires, melt it again and put in the new wires?
Remove both the wires from the top of the board,, re-install them coming up through the board from the bottom and solder them.. Red wire is the one closest to the motor.. In case you forgot to notice..
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 05:06 PM
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Originally Posted by scub View Post
i received my xtreme aluminum swash.. weighs 1.3g.
Where did you manage to get the Metal swash (Extreme) for your GCP. I am having some difficulty sourcing this in my part of the World !!!

I see they also have a metal Head upgrade...very interesting
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 05:14 PM
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Just received my 300 MaH (25 C) batteries from Oversky. These were advertised as specifically for the Genius.

They are 7.77 Gm, compared to the Hyperion 240 at 6.84 Gm

But they dont fit !!! They are 7.77 MM thick, compared to the Hyp at 6.84

Will need some "carving" on the battery tray to get them to work. But should get about 7 to 8 mins on BL set-up (I hope)

Any body else had experience with these batts ???
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 06:44 PM
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Where did you manage to get the Metal swash (Extreme) for your GCP. I am having some difficulty sourcing this in my part of the World !!!

I see they also have a metal Head upgrade...very interesting
Miracle-mart.com
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 06:46 PM
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kansas city
Joined Feb 2007
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burned up the stock motor today! I think it was a mix of the th-hold not working right. I had problems and thought I took care of it by changing the normal -20 to 0, but twice I would come up to it and wonder, why it the tail still spinning??

One other time not using the hold and forgot I was in idle up after a crash, power on but just for a second. 10 batteries and the motor is shot.
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 07:59 PM
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
Remove both the wires from the top of the board,, re-install them coming up through the board from the bottom and solder them.. Red wire is the one closest to the motor.. In case you forgot to notice..
When I re solder do I still solder on the bottom of the board?
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 08:35 PM
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United States, MI, Livonia
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When I re solder do I still solder on the bottom of the board?
If there is a place to solder then yes I don't remember right now if there is.. Look at the PCB and see if it looks like there is,, if so solder it top and bottom..
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Old Jan 09, 2012, 09:27 PM
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Tokyo
Joined Jan 2010
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I asked this question in the new mini cp thread, but figure not many people are following that thread...yet.

I'm wondering if it would be possible to mount the genius rx holder to the new mini-cp main frame? Then the genius rx could be mounted horizontally, but still benefit from the new battery and servo positioning.

Is there something with the 120 degree servo layout that would prevent the genius rx from working correctly (mixing, etc.)?

If this works then the mini cp main frame and skids could be nice option parts for the genius.
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 12:11 AM
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Originally Posted by candy76man View Post
Well, got my 282a servos last week and just got around to trying to fit them in. I have all three fit into the gcp and secured without modifying the Genius chassis at all which I would like to avoid ( I don't want to have to remodify the chassis every time I have to replace it, just a little trimming on replacement servos is all I should have to do)

- I made a crude mount for the front ele servo, I'll probably redo it so it's smaller and fitted better but what I have now will get the job done, it holds the servo down solidly and straight. The ball position will be about 3mm forward of where it was stock but if it causes any flight issues (will it, cause I don't know for sure?) I can attach a 2mm shim to the servo arm and thread the ball into that to get the ball back closer to the stock location.

- the only trimming I did on the servos (besides the ears which can't be avoided) was to trim about 1mm off the end of the right side ail servo horn and the back side of it's servo arm to give a little breathing room between it and the back of the elev servo.

-the two back servos are loose because of the ears being to thin so I plan use a dab of hot glue around each ear on final assembly to snug and straighten them up...I may also put a small piece of servo tape between the tail holder and each servo at that time too....I did that with the stock servos just to strengthen the tail holder area and it worked pretty well.

_I'll be rewiring the servos as well to work with the Walkera rx.

That's it for now, I'll be working on it off and on this week so I'll update my progress when I can. I welcome any suggestions or ideas cause I get tunnel vision on projects like this and sometimes end up missing a simpler solution. (and yes, I thought long and hard about just biting the bullet and buying the overpriced walkera servos but have decided against it since I already have the 282a's and hope they will take more abuse than the walkera servos.

Update:
We'll I got the rest of it put back together tonight and rewired the servos. I put a battery in and tried a hover and everything is working, I still have to do a lot of fine tuning and may make a few changes in regards to servo horns mainly but it is working so I'm calling it quits for tonight..hopefully I'll have some time to play around with it tomorrow.

The 282 servo horn sits a little lower than stock so that screwed up my pitch settings....Is that best to adjust out with the tie rods or servo arm positions? I've never really had a issue like that before so some tips would be great? Can I just reposition the servo arms up a little or should I focus more on lengthening the tie rods?..or some setting in the tx?
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 12:18 AM
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Tokyo
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Originally Posted by candy76man View Post
The 282 servo horn sits a little lower than stock so that screwed up my pitch settings....Is that best to adjust out with the tie rods or servo arm positions? I've never really had a issue like that before so some tips would be great? Can I just reposition the servo arms up a little or should I focus more on lengthening the tie rods?..or some setting in the tx?
First of all congratulations. You got farther than I did

Regarding pitch, you can just adjust the pitch arms from the swash to the blade links...but if there is not enough adjustment available on those arms then you'll have to do your servo links (more troublesome).

A little curious how much time total you've spent getting these to work? Would be good to give others a rough idea of what is required so they can decide whether or not the 282a's are a viable option for them.
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by f.a.r.m.e.r View Post
Mike this video might help you for when you install another pinion, its my way of doing it and its quick easy to do. Never have issues this way of removing and re-installing

Hope it helps mike

Farmer


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=biKCG...e_gdata_player
Oh, que pena¡¡¡... ¿Has quitado el vídeo??... Yo pensaba utilizarlo para ayudar a algunos amigos que empiezan ahora... Una lástima, era de gran ayuda.

Un saludo amigo.
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 09:53 AM
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United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
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Originally Posted by bytemuncher View Post
First of all congratulations. You got farther than I did

Regarding pitch, you can just adjust the pitch arms from the swash to the blade links...but if there is not enough adjustment available on those arms then you'll have to do your servo links (more troublesome).

A little curious how much time total you've spent getting these to work? Would be good to give others a rough idea of what is required so they can decide whether or not the 282a's are a viable option for them.
There is the time involved, that you need to replace all three, the chance of making a costly mistake, making major changes in the Genius links. That you have to figure into the over all cost of doing this..

It's not a plug and play replacement by any means...
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 10:18 AM
WarpQuad, Flip260FPV, etc.
Tampa,FL
Joined Dec 2003
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Originally Posted by livonia bob View Post
There is the time involved, that you need to replace all three, the chance of making a costly mistake, making major changes in the Genius links. That you have to figure into the over all cost of doing this..

It's not a plug and play replacement by any means...
definitely not plug and play

Changing around the wires on the servo was fairly easy with my new soldering station (mainly due to the needle tip I had with it) that only took me about 15 minutes for all three.

Other than that I have maybe 3 hours into it and I expect to spend another couple of hours on it getting it adjusted right but thats mainly just because I've never done it before and am not 100% sure where to begin.
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Old Jan 10, 2012, 11:06 AM
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United States, MA, Springfield
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Originally Posted by Amphip View Post
Where did you manage to get the Metal swash (Extreme) for your GCP. I am having some difficulty sourcing this in my part of the World !!!

I see they also have a metal Head upgrade...very interesting
i got it from miracle mart.. fast shipping to USA. got it in about a week! no sources in US has them from my research.
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