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Old Jul 21, 2012, 04:51 PM
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Des Moines IA
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I was wondering what the AOA is with the recommended motor?
Also with said motor and blades could you fly it with a 22003s1p lipo and say 200gr of cams?
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 05:07 PM
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Had the maiden flight today, went well! Met a helpful gentleman at the local park finishing up his morning flying session, first RC'er I've met locally. He was flying a delta wing and slot prop F/18 scratch build, very accomplished flyer. He gave me some tips on flying w/ the ailerons when he finished, very helpful.

I've only flown Champ and Super Cub previously, so those experiences are what I bring to my expectations for Easy Star. That and the Jurgen's video of an EZ II zipping around a track infield earlier in this thread. Mine seemed a bit slow/sluggish to getup in the air. It almost nose dove on first hand launch, which had me ready to take it back to the bench and check balance again. My acquaintance at the park encouraged me that it just needed a little effort to get up, to give it full throttle and up elevator to get it going the right direction. I took another shot at it and it took off, headed skyward.

It flew nice, fairly level with hands off controls. I did move my battery pack back a little during the session which seemed to help a bit on the take offs. When I was running up wind, it seemed to wallow a little in turns with aileron and elevator only, I added in the rudder and that seemed to clean it up a little bit.

I guess my setup may be a little heavy for my motor/prop? I have not weighed it, but do have 2200mah battery and the motor mount to account for, also balsa spar in the tail. Motor is 1050kV 175W number with the stock prop. It really was a blast to fly, could take it up and then kill motor and just glide for a while. I did several flights, but probably in the air for 35 - 40 minutes. I didn't have any problems with the folding prop like was mentioned earlier in the thread, it opened up fine at very low RPMs.
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Old Jul 21, 2012, 07:02 PM
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Are there going to be parts available for the Easy Star II? Todd
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 02:47 AM
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Got to field today. Turnigy NTM 3530 1400kv with 9x4 worked good even in heavy wind.
The amp usage was under 10 during level flight.
Unable to start fpv yet due to wind, so doing normal flying sessions with fpv setup.
Added gyros which worked well. Any improvements you ppl suggest before i could do actual fpv.
easystar2 fpv test flight 2 (5 min 15 sec)
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 03:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Colonel Blink View Post
At the risk of being labelled pedantic, the major reason that the bank is induced is not due to the relative speeds of the wings - though that does assist.

Every control on an aircraft (model or full size) has a primary and a secondary effect. The primary effect of using the rudder is yaw. When an aircraft with dihedral yaws, the yaw actually increases the effective angle of attack of the forward going wing, thereby increasing the lift on that side. Thus a bank is induced. Hence roll is the secondary effect of using the rudder.

Obviously, relying on the secondary effect of a control is far less positive and efficient than using the primary effect of the ailerons to do the same job. But personally, I have not found flying the EZII R/E/T wobbly at all - on the contrary I have found it smooth and stable.
well if you can't see it from the ground, then have a look at an on-board video. You'll see the nose swinging horizontally back and forth on rudder turns before settling in on a new direction.
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 11:09 AM
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United Kingdom, Aviemore
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Originally Posted by mike_o View Post
OK, 'nuff said about mounting motors, so here's something a little different: A single-servo two-axis (pan & tilt) camera set-up with rubber bands, push rods, hinges, curved wires, and funny foam cuts :



I've posted a more detailed description and a video in the FPV forum.
Mike

Do you have a link to your post in the FPV forum? Thanks

This plane could be just what I'm looking for. Had some FPV gear for a while but not got round to fitting it to any of my existing planes, this could be just the ticket and would double as a nice little electric trainer for my five year old on buddy box. Mmm more money to find.


Edit... Never mind Mike, found it
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 01:57 PM
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Old Jul 22, 2012, 02:18 PM
So I'M meant to be in control?
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Ilkley, West Yorkshire, UK
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Originally Posted by Radio.Active View Post
Double post, my bad, but y'all chose to have 2 EZ II theads....
No we didn't - it was Gene, who came over all Threadobergruppenfuhrer with us all............
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 09:01 AM
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[QUOTE=mwoneal;22227666]Had the maiden flight today, went well! -----
It flew nice, fairly level with hands off controls. I did move my battery pack back a little during the session which seemed to help a bit on the take offs.----[QUOTE]

MWOneal

Good looking EZII without stickers. Fine example of the "motor back of the pod" option. Have you measured the CG positon after your test flight, and how far from the L.E. did it end up?

Hope you can get access to a scale to find the All Up Weight. What is the spec. weight of your 2200 mAh battery?

Happy Flying

Joe
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 09:07 AM
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When I first built the EZ Star version 1, I goofed with not cutting enough of the hs-81 nylon arm off the back end of the servo and it was constantly trying to walk it self out although never did because I had strong tape. I flew like that for 6 years! Just last fall I decided to shave the plastic off the back so they can't walk out anymore and CA'd some light weight balsa in the servo slots. I can't believe what I was missing, I wasn't getting full ele and rudd control in all those year, just took it out yesterday and WOW amazing flight.
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Old Jul 23, 2012, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by DuPageJoe View Post

MWOneal

Good looking EZII without stickers. Fine example of the "motor back of the pod" option. Have you measured the CG positon after your test flight, and how far from the L.E. did it end up?

Hope you can get access to a scale to find the All Up Weight. What is the spec. weight of your 2200 mAh battery?

Happy Flying

Joe
Joe, vendor states battery weight at 179 grams. Thanks for the comments, I'm pleased w/ the way it turned out.

You raise a good question that I'm not quite sure of myself. My understanding of CG is that the model designer measures/locates the 'design' CG based on design AUW and wing shape/area. This design CG gives the aircraft/wings a certain angle of attack when flying.

If you build your model with different components, then my understanding of rebalancing for CG is that you adjust the relative position of movable components (e.g. batteries) to shift weight such that the aircraft once again balances at this design CG. Based on your question though, is it correct that the components may simply be left in original positions, accepting the shift in CG location?

Any info would be helpful, although I appreciate the fact that answers to this question may be lengthy and varied. I've built myself a simple balancing stand, so I can check CG. However, there is probably a 1 - 2 degree tolerance in what I visually determine to be 'level' equating to 2 - 3 cm of movement of the battery inside the fuse. And 'level' being my interpretation of what is illustrated in the EZ* II manual for correct angle of attack of wings and horizontal stab.

Mark

Edit: In my setup I attempted to locate the battery to get back to the design CG of 78mm from the L.E.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 01:05 AM
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Originally Posted by mwoneal View Post
Joe, vendor states battery weight at 179 grams. Thanks for the comments, I'm pleased w/ the way it turned out.

You raise a good question that I'm not quite sure of myself. My understanding of CG is that the model designer measures/locates the 'design' CG based on design AUW and wing shape/area. This design CG gives the aircraft/wings a certain angle of attack when flying.

If you build your model with different components, then my understanding of rebalancing for CG is that you adjust the relative position of movable components (e.g. batteries) to shift weight such that the aircraft once again balances at this design CG. Based on your question though, is it correct that the components may simply be left in original positions, accepting the shift in CG location?

Any info would be helpful, although I appreciate the fact that answers to this question may be lengthy and varied. I've built myself a simple balancing stand, so I can check CG. However, there is probably a 1 - 2 degree tolerance in what I visually determine to be 'level' equating to 2 - 3 cm of movement of the battery inside the fuse. And 'level' being my interpretation of what is illustrated in the EZ* II manual for correct angle of attack of wings and horizontal stab.

Mark

Edit: In my setup I attempted to locate the battery to get back to the design CG of 78mm from the L.E.
I believe that the recommended CoG is based on the manufacturer's findings after test flying a new plane of a certain shape and geometrical lay-out. Advanced pilots can shift the CoG a little from the recommendation to achieve different flight characteristics (I wouldn't try )

The weight of the plane should not affect the CoG, only the speed with which it flies.
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 09:28 AM
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Thanks for the Info MWOneal

What I'm looking for is how close the position of the CoG came, in your opinion - using the same test, to design location after trimming to fly in a reasonable manner.

I build free flight planes from kits or from plans and always need to play around with a little nose or tail clay to get the glide to flatten out. Glad to see you have a stand and used it to get close to the design 78 mm before you flew. Everybody should do that. I agree with Mike_O on that. It's true that there's a variation with the attitude when the plane is placed on the stand. Hopefully that won't be sufficient to make the plane hard to fly.

If you found that the plane flew better with a minor shift in battery location, you should record the shift in the total CoG which accompanied that.

If you shift your battery, at 180 grams, by 2 cm, the actual CoG of your plane, at 720 grams including battery for example. would shift 0.5 cm in the same direction.

Mike_O You're right that the total weight of the plane won't change the CoG, either design or actual, but it's useful to know so you can put it into a calculation of the CoG shift as in my example above.

A molded kit plane like the EZ II is not likely to undergo much change in the center of lift when it's built, so matching the design CoG and the actual CoG is usually the best policy. The actual CoG can be measured and should be, before and after any trimming.

There are always variations in component weights when you build a kit, so hoping for the best after you put it together doesn't work. With my Phantom Fury freeflight, the CoG wasn't on the plan. I put on the prop, added the motor, then put in the clay. When it was gliding OK, the actual CoG was at 50% chord. The horizontal stabilizer was probably lifting some. It also has a peculiar tad-pole shaped airfoil with undercamber at the rear spar.

Enjoy your EZ II's

Joe
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Old Jul 24, 2012, 09:33 PM
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Joe,

Appreciate the explanation. I'll look for a scale, I'm curious now about that AUW for the formula you mentioned. In the end I'd say the 78mm referenced in the manual is a good location to shoot for, given the tolerance of my measurements. I set all of the control surfaces 'neutral' with the associated wing or stabilizer, and didn't really have to adjust trim much at all once it got in the air.

The Fury is a sharp looking model, looks like a lot of detail work goes into something like that.
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Old Jul 25, 2012, 07:55 AM
So I'M meant to be in control?
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I posted on 5th June that my EZII was ready for it's maiden; although I have managed a couple of sub 5min flights, with the wind and rain that have been lashing the UK this summer, I really didn't feel like I had enough stick time to pass much comment on the flying characteristics.

Well, we have just had about 4 days of blue skies and sunshine - but gusty winds up to 30mph. Whenever the wind dropped, I wasn't available etc etc - you know the script. But this morning there was a <5mph northerly wind (not a bad direction for the Moor), so at 6am on my way to work, I squelched off up the hill to lob it off. I managed a full 30 mins airtime and started to get a feel for it. My personal impressions (and I am by no means an expert, or highly experienced, or even a very good pilot) are as follows (note: currently my EZII is running without ailerons)

After my EZ1, which is running a 2700kV motor on 3S giving 200W input power, the EZ2 with a 1130kV outrunner giving 95W @ 8A on the same battery seems very 'soft' - maybe even tame. It won't climb at more than 30 degrees. It won't pull a loop from a glide just by wacking the go handle to the stop and hauling back on the stick. You have to take it toward the hard stuff to get out of inverted (or rudder roll it out) rather than pushing the stick forward and powering it up.

But none of that is what the EZII is designed for - though I'm sure soon we will have the sparking equivalents of V8s being shoehorned in. Getting into the groove of what the EZII was designed as makes it a very relaxing, delightful model to fly. As a 3ch trainer it will be great - it flies gracefully and smoothly and predictably. As a 4ch trainer, I hope it will be the same - because that's what I bought it for! Once I have flown it a couple of hours as R/E/T I will seperate the ailerons and start flying it 4ch. I just want to get past the 'it's a brand new model and I've crashed it waaaaaaaaaaa!!!!!!!' stage first....

Couple of idiosyncrasies on my model which may or may not be same on all EZIIs:
a) It has a surprisingly pronounced stall, and mine always seems to drop the left wing and start to enter a vertical spin. It's easy to get out of, but it took me by surprise on my first stall test. It has made me very conscious of not getting too slow when low down - especially on the downwind to base leg turn when it is easy to let the airspeed bleed off due to the perception given by the groundspeed.
b) It might just be me - and the fact that the Moor (being a lumpy hill) always has very bumpy air close to the ground - but I think that the model likes to have the motor on at low throttle for control when descending in the circuit or on final to land. Because the setup I have 'whistles' at very low throttle I have it whistling in the circuit; open the throttle one click more and you can hear the normal motor noise and can keep s&l. The low throttle opening keeps some air over the control surfaces and gives manoevring authority at landing speeds. It wouldn't do this with ailerons of course; the prop wash only works over the empennage. But then again, with the more positive control of ailerons, a 4ch version may not need the motor running.

The other thing which I noticed was that (after the howling buzz of my EZ1), the EZ2 on 'stock' gear is very very quiet and sociable. This will be the model that I fly in the early mornings, or when trying a new location for the first time...I am beginning a search, because I'm getting a bit fed up with the Moor - I'd like to try some flat fields once in a while... so quietness is important to me.

All in all, I like it a lot. On 3ch, it won't give me a heart attack; but we'll see what it does on 4ch in a few weeks time!!!


I forgot to mention: over 30 minutes flying time on a 2200mAh 3S Lipo, which started @ 80% and finished @ 29%!!!!!!! So its economical too!!!!
NB: Your mileage may vary
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Last edited by Colonel Blink; Jul 25, 2012 at 10:19 AM. Reason: Corrected motor kV
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