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Old Jan 29, 2012, 08:10 PM
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Whew. Glad I saw this old thread (link). Putting new wings on both my new 3D Beast and my old V1, and saw a little anhedral and wondered if I had somehow assembled something wrong on both of them... thought I recalled the wing being perfectly flat, but obviously my memory is faulty!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1403456


Straight form Horizon site:
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 10:08 PM
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And we are.....

Done.

Well, 'functionally done', anyway. Assembled, CF rods in place, mechanically tested and trimmed.

I still have all the proper decals and the wheel pants I could put on, and new *black* 5030/5043 props (instead of colored with a sharpie) and I have new spinners...

But I think I'll leave them just as you see here until flight tested/debugged. flight trimmed.

My sense is that these will fly perfectly fine now, BUT in retrospect, even with CF rods in place on leading edges and strut supports, I feel without the cross bracing it is not quite as stout in lateral stiffness as the original design. So if I had to do it again, I would definitely take the time to re-thread all those criss-crossing CF rods and support rigging -- it is not just eye-candy, it actually serves a function.

Anyway, having done it I can tell you given the choice of buying a $16 wing set plus tail feather and having to do the laborious task of replacement, alignment, fiddling ,etc, versus perhaps buying a $99 V1 or used Beast for 45-60, and just transplanting the electronics and servos...


well, doing those wings is a royal pain I would rather avoid, and it would be worth that price. I did like taking the opportunity to move those servos to the top of the wing, though, since I was already committed to doing the work.
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Old Jan 29, 2012, 10:25 PM
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Nice work, noob!

You've set the bar high for the rest of us.....for whom the question is not whether we will total our Beasts, but when........

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Old Jan 29, 2012, 10:50 PM
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Originally Posted by pugsam View Post
Nice work, noob!

You've set the bar high for the rest of us.....for whom the question is not whether we will total our Beasts, but when........




Just be sure if you do decide to go to top mounted servos that you remember to reverse them (right goes on left wing and left goes on right wing, and then even if you are scrupulous in getting it right, to still follow up with a careful functional test, remembering that DOWN ail is actually providing lift, and vice-versa, unlike rudder and ele which are easy to suss out directly. I'd hate to see someone do all this work only to have it pack in due to control reversal. Saw that just this last week --- and, from an experienced guy, too.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 05:05 AM
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 06:30 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post



Just be sure if you do decide to go to top mounted servos that you remember to reverse them (right goes on left wing and left goes on right wing, and then even if you are scrupulous in getting it right, to still follow up with a careful functional test, remembering that DOWN ail is actually providing lift, and vice-versa, unlike rudder and ele which are easy to suss out directly. I'd hate to see someone do all this work only to have it pack in due to control reversal. Saw that just this last week --- and, from an experienced guy, too.
Just curious if the as3x is reacting correctly against the roll direction? the people whove placed servos on top did it on V1s
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 06:57 AM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Originally Posted by Silverexpress View Post
Just curious if the as3x is reacting correctly against the roll direction? the people whove placed servos on top did it on V1s
It would as long as the actual physical servos were switched from left to right not just reversed in the TX.

-Brian
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 07:11 AM
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Yeah, so long as the mechanics stay the same then AS3X won't know anything has changed and will work ok.

Like Brian says though, make any Tx adjustments and it could go out of sync...
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 07:58 AM
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Berkley, MI
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
And we are.....

Done.

Well, 'functionally done', anyway. Assembled, CF rods in place, mechanically tested and trimmed.

I still have all the proper decals and the wheel pants I could put on, and new *black* 5030/5043 props (instead of colored with a sharpie) and I have new spinners...

But I think I'll leave them just as you see here until flight tested/debugged. flight trimmed.

My sense is that these will fly perfectly fine now, BUT in retrospect, even with CF rods in place on leading edges and strut supports, I feel without the cross bracing it is not quite as stout in lateral stiffness as the original design. So if I had to do it again, I would definitely take the time to re-thread all those criss-crossing CF rods and support rigging -- it is not just eye-candy, it actually serves a function.

Anyway, having done it I can tell you given the choice of buying a $16 wing set plus tail feather and having to do the laborious task of replacement, alignment, fiddling ,etc, versus perhaps buying a $99 V1 or used Beast for 45-60, and just transplanting the electronics and servos...


well, doing those wings is a royal pain I would rather avoid, and it would be worth that price. I did like taking the opportunity to move those servos to the top of the wing, though, since I was already committed to doing the work.
The carbon rods are not that hard to replace. They slip into sockets. You'll need to replace the plastic mounts though if you cannot get to the old rods out with CA remover. You must glue the empty mounts first and then slip in the rods. To secure just place a tiny dab of CA at each socket with the rods in place; however, you must put the wings in first! The rods must be the last things to get glued. Takes like 2 minutes to do.

The rods prevent the wings from folding up in a high +g or -g maneuver. The thin foam itself is not strong enough to handle this load, and the weight of the aileron servos.

Use an X-acto chisel blade, #17 or curved #10 to remove the old lower wing, and not a pointy #11 blade. This will prevent you from nicking the fuselage.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Silverexpress View Post
Just curious if the as3x is reacting correctly against the roll direction? the people whove placed servos on top did it on V1s

Works fine -- in fact, just completed the test hop this morning at 9:15 AM in these winds (chart below)! If only I had not slept in and had gotten there as soon as the park opened, I could have had more than an hour of smooth flying. Oh well. I'll go to bed early tonight, and hit it at oh-dark-thirty tomorrow to try to beat the wind.

Video is uploading to Youtube right now, but won't be impressive for any reason -- just a noob doing a checkride on his newly repaired Beast, but it handled it perfectly, and I am well-pleased with the outcome.
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 10:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Silverexpress View Post
The carbon rods are not that hard to replace. They slip into sockets. You'll need to replace the plastic mounts though if you cannot get to the old rods out with CA remover. You must glue the empty mounts first and then slip in the rods. To secure just place a tiny dab of CA at each socket with the rods in place...
Yup, had to follow a very similar process to carefully make new aileron linkages from the parts provided in the wing-set.

I had one set of rods that I salvaged from the bad wing, but one of them was actually slightly long right from the factory, forcing me to 'split the difference' in trim in my Beat's previous incarnation, so this time, I just made all four of them from scratch, carefully making sure the aileron surfaces were perfectly matched top-and-bottom before allowing the CA to set. Everything came out great, but as already alluded to, it is not fun work, even if it is not technically very difficult to understand.

Doing that for all those tiny inner struts, including having to either un-glue the old stubs of CF, or else remove the mounts and put in new ones, just did not appeal to my already tired brain. It's ship-in-a-bottle type tedium. If you like it and/or are prepared for it, is okay, but when repairing a broken airplane, I prefer a more 'bolt on and go' approach, *if* possible.

Like I already said, I would encourage everyone to put it back to exactly stock, but I wanted to at least this time experiment with an alternate way. You can judge in the video if you see any flex or wobble or whatever -- seems plenty stout from what I could see so far.

EDITED TO ADD VIDEO:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EUJay...ature=youtu.be
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 11:48 AM
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Cool

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Originally Posted by DangerDave View Post
with 3000kv motor


http://youtu.be/vEp-D8Y9Bqs
Thanks for the video.
What camera is that, I have an #11.
Also, you need a longer runway
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Old Jan 30, 2012, 05:07 PM
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looks like a number 11 with the rotten vignetting! lol I have one too : )
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 05:56 AM
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Poor Beast 3D. It's now old news.....your still my favorite though ;-)
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Old Feb 01, 2012, 02:05 PM
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Poor Beast 3D. It's now old news.....your still my favorite though ;-)
heh heh

Mine too... although giving it a stablemate or too could not be a bad thing, right......hmmmm....

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