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Old Jan 02, 2012, 10:39 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,954 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by imodel View Post
I got a Beast for Xmas and I'm really disappointed with it. I either have some bad batteries or a bad motor. The batteries are the recommended ones (I know there's better out there), fully charged the plane will fly for only about 30 seconds and will barely keep flying. This isn't my first micro as I have a Polecat that flies great. All suggestions/ideas welcome!
Quote:
Originally Posted by turnerm View Post
Definitely sounds like something is wrong! Call HH support. They'll get you taken care of.
Imodel,

As Turnerm noted - something's wrong. It could be the battery, charger, motor, or ESC. The stock battery should fly the plane for at least 4-5 minutes. Call HH & they'll make it right.

Joel
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Old Jan 02, 2012, 11:22 PM
Wherever you go there you are
7oneWo1f's Avatar
United States, MN, Minneapolis
Joined Nov 2011
8,455 Posts
I have the beast v1 and have learned to fly it in pretty heavy wind. Anybody fly the v1 and v2? thoughts?
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 01:02 AM
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ATC Chilli's Avatar
United States, VA, Purcellville
Joined Aug 2011
837 Posts
If you have a good handle on the V1 Beast, you may be disappointed with the performance of V2. I found V1 exhilarating. But for me it could be a handfull as I'm not the most experienced flyer. I find V2 a bit slower and more docile, but still fun to fly. If I was to only have one UM it would be V2. Still, there are times I miss the rush of flying V1. I know it helped me hone my flying skills more so than any other plane in my fleet.
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 07:31 AM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
9,262 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
I have the beast v1 and have learned to fly it in pretty heavy wind. Anybody fly the v1 and v2? thoughts?
It's hard to say how you'll feel about the V2 Beast... but I'm guessing that you'll enjoy it. It is simply amazing how well the gyros handle wind. That part is really cool.

The gyros also seem to help with calm weather flights as well - it just looks so amazingly smooth in the air and feels very locked in.

My personal opinion/experience is that I really love the 3D Beast. The only thing that's given me problems is that I find myself fighting with the gyro when in high alpha KE flight. It wants to hold it perfectly level and you have to fight with it to turn.

But I think this is just a matter of getting used to the plane with the gyro in it. I think the good points FAR outweigh any negatives. It's a great plane in my opinion.
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 09:33 AM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,174 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
I have the beast v1 and have learned to fly it in pretty heavy wind. Anybody fly the v1 and v2? thoughts?
Yup, I have both, and today I had the V2 out in 15MPH winds, with no real problems. No other UM, including my V1 Beast would allow a pilot of my limited skills to do that.

In addition, I have changed the Beast 3D over to the V1 motor, and this morning, it was fantastic -- same power, but super quiet like the original Beast.

One thing that got me last outing though was somehow I was having very reduced elevator authority. Yet when I would preflight it, it seemed to be operating correctly. Well, finally doing a simple (but fast) loop, it just would not pull out, and I crashed it badly. Broken wing, spinner, etc. When I had it on the bench to check out and repair, I found the root cause of my elevator problems: the surface had torn right near the control horn, at the thinnest part, so when it was tested just sitting still, both sides moved fine, but you could easily waggle it to make the sides move separately, like from even the slightest touch, or a breath of wind.

To fix it, I CA'ed a thin piece of CF rod stock across the surface to bind the two halves together, taking care to place the rod not interfere with rudder or elevator movement.

I normally would hate to add weight, especially to the tail, but since it was required and the battery is already riding so far back under the cowl for CG anyway, it just took a little less shoving the battery under the nose to get the balance right. It flies like a dream, even in that heavy wind this morning.

If I had thinner CF rod stock I would have used it, but necessity is a mother (or something like that!)...

Given how thin that little area across the elevator surfaces is, and the forces that you can generate in flight... well, I'm surprised it didn't break earlier, and if I had a stock Beast, I would definitely do this mod right away-- who knows how much elevator authority is being given up through flex here, even if it is not actually ripped and dangling like mine was.
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 09:41 AM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
pugsam's Avatar
Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
3,615 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
.....the surface had torn right near the control horn, at the thinnest part.....
Yikes. I see what you mean, about how thin and fragile it is at that spot.



Nice repair.

I'm pondering whether to apply some protection there, in advance.....

Dave
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 09:43 AM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,174 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pugsam View Post
Yikes. I see what you mean, about how thin and fragile it is at that spot.



Nice repair.

I'm pondering whether to apply some protection there, in advance.....

Dave
I was shocked at how thin that area was. Usually the design on these Eflite UMs is pretty good, but that is clearly a weak spot.
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 09:53 AM
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flynfrfun's Avatar
Seattle, WA
Joined Apr 2006
1,167 Posts
Hmmm...I've almost crashed mine coming out of a loop for the same reason. Also, when giving full up at high speed, it will roll right. I need to check that spot, it could be flexing or about to fall apart. Thanks for the heads up!
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 09:54 AM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
pugsam's Avatar
Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
3,615 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
I was shocked at how thin that area was. Usually the design on these Eflite UMs is pretty good, but that is clearly a weak spot.
I wonder if the guys who have hundreds of hours on the Beast (v1 and v2) could suggest where and how we could reinforce and protect it, to minimize damage.

After much experience (read: crashes) with my UM Stryker, I learned its structural vulnerabilities and how to limit them.

Any advice from you Old Hands to us Beast noobies?

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Old Jan 03, 2012, 09:55 AM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,174 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by flynfrfun View Post
Hmmm...I've almost crashed mine coming out of a loop for the same reason. Also, when giving full up at high speed, it will roll right. I need to check that spot, it could be flexing or about to fall apart. Thanks for the heads up!
I added a picture of what it looked like from the top... hard to spot -- until I inspected very carefully I could not suss out what the heck was going on!

Now that that rod is holding the halves together underneath, it flies like it's brand new again!

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Old Jan 03, 2012, 10:06 AM
Gone Huckin'
turnerm's Avatar
Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pugsam View Post
I wonder if the guys who have hundreds of hours on the Beast (v1 and v2) could suggest where and how we could reinforce and protect it, to minimize damage.

After much experience (read: crashes) with my UM Stryker, I learned its structural vulnerabilities and how to limit them.

Any advice from you Old Hands to us Beast noobies?

Hmmm... I'd say the best possible solution is to carefully inspect your Beast after every crash (even mild ones) and then once every 5-10 "drama-free" flights. A few things to consider (but don't take this as an exhaustive list - these are just a few that I've learned the hard way):
  • Wing struts. Just gently pluck each one with your finger and check to see that they are properly secured to the upper and lower wing
  • All control surfaces - make sure they are free of creases or small tears/rips. This small tears/rips/creases can be hard to detect but they will certainly show up during flight... often times you'll try to trim them out without knowing the real issue.
  • Chips in the prop
  • ALWAYS do a control surface check before taking off. And try REALLY hard to actually look closely as each surface moves. This will help identify potential problems. It will also help identify a pushrod that has been pushed beyone the Z-bend in the control horn
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 10:37 AM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
pugsam's Avatar
Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
3,615 Posts
Thanks, turnerm.

My 2 cents:

- It's seemed to me that the vertical (large) wing struts are vulnerable. I added a very thin dab of hot glue along the seams where they connect to the wings. Also, I applied a very small piece of tape across and around them, at each of the points where their width tapers from wide to narrow.

- Some of the diagonal (wire) wing struts weren't attached as securely as I would have liked, so I smeared a little dot of hot glue at each of the questionable attachment points.

- I've developed road rash on my spinner, and on the front of the fuse just below the spinner (the fuse's "chin"). So far, judicious application of black sharpie freshens-up the spinner. Any suggestions for protecting against and/or repairing scuffs and gouges in the chin area?

Dave
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 10:43 AM
Registered User
United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
7,504 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pugsam View Post
Any suggestions for protecting against and/or repairing scuffs and gouges in the chin area?
Land in grass or on very smooth pavement. Seriously... that's all I've come up with. I've got lots of chin rash too.
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 10:45 AM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,954 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by N6145k View Post
I have the beast v1 and have learned to fly it in pretty heavy wind. Anybody fly the v1 and v2? thoughts?
N6145k,

I have over 100 hours of stick-time on the V1, and maybe 7 hrs on the B3D. I agree with Turnerm.

Plus - provided there is sufficient airflow over the control surfaces, the B3D 'feels' more like a 40-60 size ship than a UM. That's a big selling-point for me, as I've always wanted a scale backyard flier that doesn't feel like a backyard flier. I love planes that fly 'big'.

Joel
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Old Jan 03, 2012, 04:57 PM
Your customer
Silverexpress's Avatar
Berkley, MI
Joined Dec 2009
1,385 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by pugsam View Post
I wonder if the guys who have hundreds of hours on the Beast (v1 and v2) could suggest where and how we could reinforce and protect it, to minimize damage.

After much experience (read: crashes) with my UM Stryker, I learned its structural vulnerabilities and how to limit them.

Any advice from you Old Hands to us Beast noobies?

I've done reinforcements using .020" carbon rod. I just tack it on with foam safe CA and Kicker. I have one continuous strip going along the leading edge of the upper wing, and two strips for the lower wing. They sit either above or below the molding flash that is left on the wings - makes it easy to align. I ended the rods at a point wherein the wings started to curve at the tips. I did not cover the curves themselves. It's too much of a bend and the foam is to flimsy, and so the bent carbon rod may induce warping.

For the foam interplane struts, I also add .020" carbon rods tacked on diagonally on the inside. This will prevent the interplane struts from folding if you land on a wing. These rods add very little weight, and add not only stiffness but act as bumpers too.

With these on, the breaks get transferred to the "glued on" interplane carbon rod mounts which will tend to pop off.

I also add 3m transparent tape from the get go. I add two strips. (1) on the top wing near the rear, and it goes from above an inside corner of an aileron to the other. The inside corners are where creases and rips tend to appear. I add another on the bottom side of the lower wing.

For the elevator, I add a small strip of .020" carbon rod along the elevator horn to stiffen up the foam. This is a weakspot, and over time the foam gets very soft here from the loads experienced. Making the elevator mushy and less effective. Same with the rudder.

Someone else had done this but used .030" carbon rod. I corresponded with him on this thread way back in the beginning.

Here is a post by a member who did the same thing to his Stryker (which I've also done to mine - in fact I've done this to all my UM's P51, Stryker, Sbach, 26m...etc...):

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1752

Here is another beautiful job:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=2679

Use applicator bulbs to apply drops of CA kicker. Makes it real real easy. The beast took me less than 10 minutes to do. Cutting the carbon was the hardest part...lol

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...&I=LXB970&P=FR
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