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Old Sep 17, 2012, 11:42 AM
Parkzone junkie
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Quote:
Originally Posted by khooke View Post
I wonder if the faulty board issues were still a different issue from this overheating with the glue? The reason why I think this is because I could run mine on the ground trying to reproduce the cutout for minutes and not get it to cut out, but then in the air it would repeatedly cutout every flight after about a minute or less.
I have seen a brick that the solder job on the elevator or rudder servo motor wires was so bad that the solder blob jumpered the power wire to a nearby resistor! This caused overheat of the VR. This is uncommon though.

The other thing to remember is that the servos draw quite a bit of juice while flying. All 4 are constantly moving in when the plane is in the air. This increase draw causes the VR to get warmer. On the ground in static tests even if the plane is being moved a little bit they will not be moving as much.

Try adding a cooling scoop like the one I posted. This will funnel nice cold air directly onto the Voltage Regulator, which incidentally is extremely close to the ESC FETs.


Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Funny how this thread has come to refer to boards that won't run 3S reliably as "faulty"!
HH just makes to good of products

-Brian
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 02:06 PM
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Well I learned a lesson today. Do not use welders glue (the same glue I use on my Twisted Hobby 3D foam plane) on the UMX Beast. MELT!!!!!! Searching for a new wing now. Any suggestions on an easy way to take the old one off and replace.
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Old Sep 17, 2012, 09:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Try adding a cooling scoop like the one I posted. This will funnel nice cold air directly onto the Voltage Regulator, which incidentally is extremely close to the ESC FETs.
My board I had the issues with was replaced by HH, but I do still have it. No problems on the new one btw. If I ever need to replace the new one I'll try going back to the original one, scrape off some of the goo, and try the cooling too.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 04:52 PM
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How much tape would you need on one side of the B3D, say between a wing and the fuse to create enough drag that you'd cause it to roll to that side?

I've got some hastily/messy applied tape on the left lower wing applied at the park on my Beast, which also has a tendency to slowly roll left. I'd trimmed it out on my controller so wasn't that bothered by it, but since the manual says to mechanically trim the plane rather than rely on controller trim, I was going to mess with the u bends in the push rods this morning, when I noticed the amount of trim I had on my controller was beyond making the surfaces level/inline - there's a noticeable amount of aileron and rudder right - the sloppy tape is on the left wing.

Is it possible the tape is causing enough drag that's causing my roll? There's a section that's against the wing surface and up against the fuse, but there's a gap underneath, so there's like a tube under the tape running from the front of the wing to the back, along the side of the fuse. Is this the cause of my rolling? :-)
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 06:29 PM
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The weight of the tape could move your cg left of the center of the fuselage, making the plane want to roll left just because of gravity. Try temporarily adding the same amount of tape to the right wing in the same place and see if that doesn't balance it out for you.

Also, make sure the left wing is level with the right wing. If the the left wing is twisted so the leading edge is lower and the trailing edge is higher than the right wing, it will want to roll to the left because the whole wing will be basically introducing up aileron...
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 07:42 PM
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The wings look pretty much level each side. I'll remove the tape and do a cleaner repair so there's not a gap between the wing/tape/fuse (I didn't get it pushed flush against the fuse, so that's where the gap is underneath the tape), and then also add the same amount to the other side and see if that does it. Thanks!
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 07:59 PM
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CG is especially important with micro planes versus larger park flyers. Glue and tape can quickly shift CG forward and back... left and right... when the airframe + batt barely makes it over 2oz.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 08:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Aphro View Post
CG is especially important with micro planes versus larger park flyers. Glue and tape can quickly shift CG forward and back... left and right... when the airframe + batt barely makes it over 2oz.
+1!

To make things worse - a 1mm CG change is quite noticeable on many of these planes!

Joel
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 08:17 PM
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Center your trims on the TX. Then power it up and make sure the servos are centered before you bend the linkage. When you unplug your battery with the AS3X active it can leave the servos at various deflections because while you are handling the plane the gyro is still correcting for the planes movement. So a quick on the ground power up without running the motor is the only way to verify servos are centered.

Try not to fly any of the AS3X planes with trim, anything over 5 clicks and the AS3X considers it stick input and that can really make it fly funky.
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Old Sep 18, 2012, 10:59 PM
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servo motors

Any one know where to get the little motors just by it self for the as3x servo
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 11:45 AM
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Is the 3DB being discontinued/ replaced by the Sbach 3D, or the low/ no stock situation here in Europe is a 'local' phenomenon?

To the 3S guys, will the Sbch 3D also be able to run on 3S?
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by McMoron View Post
Is the 3DB being discontinued/ replaced by the Sbach 3D, or the low/ no stock situation here in Europe is a 'local' phenomenon?

To the 3S guys, will the Sbach 3D also be able to run on 3S?
No the B3D is not being discontinued. The low stock is because it flies so well everyone wants one!

The Sbach 3D "should" run 3S just fine. Mine does. Again it is at your own risk. I think there was one reported failure over hundreds of people and that was an eventual wear out if I recall correctly. Statistically it should be safe.

-Brian
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Old Sep 20, 2012, 12:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Funny how this thread has come to refer to boards that won't run 3S reliably as "faulty"!
Haha, that IS funny...
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 01:13 PM
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Hi all,first time to use this forum.looking for some help, bought a lovely umx beast 3D and on its 5th flight the elevator stopped working,after some checks like (with battery pluged in and using my finger to wind on the elevator motor it makes a noise like it wants to travel to the mid position as normal,there is 4.2 volts at the motor so all seems fine there,i am starting to thing its a signal problem... if anyone has any idea about this problem i would appreciate the help to fix it.....
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Old Sep 22, 2012, 02:40 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Originally Posted by eddiekenny View Post
Hi all,first time to use this forum.looking for some help, bought a lovely umx beast 3D and on its 5th flight the elevator stopped working,after some checks like (with battery pluged in and using my finger to wind on the elevator motor it makes a noise like it wants to travel to the mid position as normal,there is 4.2 volts at the motor so all seems fine there,i am starting to thing its a signal problem... if anyone has any idea about this problem i would appreciate the help to fix it.....
Does it respond to control inputs now? Sometimes these servos lock up at full travel. If it works after you rolled to to center by hand It was probably just locked. If it doesn't work now you need to call Horizon's Customer service and tell them about it.

-Brian
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