Keep your eye on the servos, especially the rudder and elevator. My original Beast arrived in June was totally defective... I posted details couple pages back...

I was so excited when my replacement arrived and it flew like a dream So much so I immediately ordered the MiG

Unfortunately after only 5 flights on my Beast both the rudder and elevator servos went wacky. I thought I saved them by hosing them down with deoxit, but to no avail Beast #2 on it's way back to HH.

While I was on hold to return Beast #2, I was ground testing my MiG. Right out of the box the right aileron would stick in various positions. I asked the rep to ask their tech guys how they are cleaning the servos. Alcohol and pressurized air. So I tried that with absolutely no improvements. Had to call back the next day to return the MiG. I also ordered a Pole Cat to tide me over while I was waiting for Beast #2 (because they were back ordered). Pole Cat also defective was returned with Beast #2. All servos were doing their own thing... but only under power no throttle and they all worked fine...

My luck not so good... that's 4 aircraft since June... My only bright spot is at least I didn't order the GeeBee or CC when they came out... could have been more planes going back

Originally Posted by GavDorro

Received new Beast on Monday.
Due to work commitments had to leave it until last night to test. In fading light managed around 10 minutes flying. Flew really nice, no hint of servo probs! More testing this arvo..... Crossing fingers, Horizon may have fixed the servo jamming probs?

Love how this thing handles a little wind!! Giggling like a fool while hanging it on its tail and slowly spinning it round... dont think too many people were watching

Originally Posted by turnerm

Yea - that's what I was afraid of. So it's the brick that's overheating then and not the motor right? I've got another brick I can try.

Yep... the brick. But do open up that airflow I described.

Also some (Nitro) has had luck mounting additional FETs piggy-backed onto the existing ones in parallel. It's pretty tiny work. I attempted a practice session last night and did pretty well. I have a soldering iron with a needle-like tip and temperature control. I needed reading glasses, Doc Brown magnifiers and the big magnifier mounted to my "third hand" soldering helper!

I haven't had time to do it for real today, but I think I'll be successful.

Thanks. I'll try that first and see what happens because that few minutes of 3a flying was magical!

Do you think a Blade 130x brick would work and if so would there be any advantage to it?

Originally Posted by turnerm

Thanks. I'll try that first and see what happens because that few minutes of 3a flying was magical!

Do you think a Blade 130x brick would work and if so would there be any advantage to it?

No. It's got 3 servos mixed to do the job of aileron, elevator and collective. There really is no servo that's just the elevator nor just aileron. It's all a mixed in mess for the swash plate. And you'd have to mount it vertically. Interesting thought, though.

Originally Posted by turnerm

OK... I was able to get my hands on a friend's 3s hyperion 180's with the JST connector on them. I already had a JST to UMX adapter so I used that to test out the Beast out on a 3s setup. I'm using the stock motor and stock prop. I was amazed for the first 20 seconds and then the motor cut out on me. I kept on testing and it continued to do this. And I was only at around 50% throttle. And when I say the motor cut out on me I mean it just completely shut off and the plane fell out of the sky. I still had servo control but absolutely no power. The motor didn't feel hot and if I waited a few seconds it would resume working.

Any clues? Is there something special I need to do?

Two things:
I just posted a review of RCBabbel's prototype 3S 320mAh pack!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=15325

I posted pictures Turnerm, It is the brick overheating. I added heatsinks to the FETs and the VR. It is easy to do and no soldering involved. completely solved the problems with cutouts on 3S. I opened up the front cowl under the motor to match the cutout they have over the motor. I also added a tiny scoop to the cooling hole the aileron servo wires go through. This directs air straight at the brick now. 3S WOT vertical climbs until it is a dot and no cutouts!

fyi: Mine was one of the hopeless ones that cut out at <50% throttle sometimes on 3S. What I found was the person assembling the plane was heavy handed on the white silicone that holds the brick in. It oozed around the side of the brick onto an even slightly on top of the far right ESC FET! This acts like a thermal blanket and over heats the ESC.

-Brian

Originally Posted by Aphro

Keep your eye on the servos, especially the rudder and elevator. My original Beast arrived in June was totally defective... I posted details couple pages back...

I was so excited when my replacement arrived and it flew like a dream So much so I immediately ordered the MiG

Unfortunately after only 5 flights on my Beast both the rudder and elevator servos went wacky. I thought I saved them by hosing them down with deoxit, but to no avail Beast #2 on it's way back to HH.

That kinda sucks......
Flew another 3 batteries yesterday arvo. No problems at all....(now I've jinxed myself) I started with the UM's about 18 months ago....but have moved onto the bigger stuff. Although the Beast is kinda sucking me back to the smaller stuff again!
UM's are a bit more fragile and harder to keep flying (IMO).
Finding a nice field to fly them AND land them nice is a trick! Was practising landing on a cricket pitch with my UMT28... Hate the way the little wheels hit grass and instantly catapult the plane upside down.

Originally Posted by kalmon

Two things:
I just posted a review of RCBabbel's prototype 3S 320mAh pack!
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...ostcount=15325

I posted pictures Turnerm, It is the brick overheating. I added heatsinks to the FETs and the VR. It is easy to do and no soldering involved. completely solved the problems with cutouts on 3S. I opened up the front cowl under the motor to match the cutout they have over the motor. I also added a tiny scoop to the cooling hole the aileron servo wires go through. This directs air straight at the brick now. 3S WOT vertical climbs until it is a dot and no cutouts!

fyi: Mine was one of the hopeless ones that cut out at <50% throttle sometimes on 3S. What I found was the person assembling the plane was heavy handed on the white silicone that holds the brick in. It oozed around the side of the brick onto an even slightly on top of the far right ESC FET! This acts like a thermal blanket and over heats the ESC.

-Brian

Can you link me to your pictures by chance?

Originally Posted by turnerm

Can you link me to your pictures by chance?

Here is a couple links showing the Erkq's heatsinks, A bad glue job on a brick, and my cooling scoop. I don't have a shot of the cutout of the nose area, but once you take the prop off it is really obvious what I did. The top half has a 1/2 circle gap above the motor. All I did was cut the same gap below the motor.

-Brian

I use 3S BB240s in mine and I too had OTP problems.

All I have done is open up a foam hole around the motor. You can't even see it but it works a treat! No more mods and no more OTP

It sometimes cuts out when held still on a hot day but never while flying.

I removed my try and cut out the opening of the cowl a bit and that worked for one full battery but it cut out again on my second battery (about 5 minutes in between).

So I'll have to keep messing around with it to see what I can do.

Brian - what material did you make the scoop out of?

I just received my new Beast 3D and bound it to my DX6i transmitter. Per the manual, I set all of the trims to neutral before binding except for the throttle trim. I set that to the lowest trim setting (again per instruction manual). Everything seems fine except for the throttle. I get no throttle response until the stick is moved about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom. Is this normal with this plane or have I done something wrong?

Thanks, Kim

Originally Posted by raggedclaws

I just received my new Beast 3D and bound it to my DX6i transmitter. Per the manual, I set all of the trims to neutral before binding except for the throttle trim. I set that to the lowest trim setting (again per instruction manual). Everything seems fine except for the throttle. I get no throttle response until the stick is moved about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom. Is this normal with this plane or have I done something wrong?

Thanks, Kim

After binding:
1)unplug the plane
2)Power off the TX
3)Power on the TX
4)Move the Throttle trim back to middle (leave it here forever now)
5)plug in Plane
6)fly and have fun!

This should fix it.

Originally Posted by turnerm

I removed my try and cut out the opening of the cowl a bit and that worked for one full battery but it cut out again on my second battery (about 5 minutes in between).

So I'll have to keep messing around with it to see what I can do.

Brian - what material did you make the scoop out of?

I just took an Xacto hobby knife to some clear plastic packaging that was laying around. It was for a pair of mini Ipod speakers originally. I found an area that was rounded and cut it out. Then I test fit it and cut the little recesses for the aileron servos.
If you can't find anything you could try one of the UM servo covers, just make sure you trim it! The are to big stock and would grab to much air probably resulting in some down pitching due to drag. I'd say to try the CC's silver covers as it would match the silver on the bottom of the wing.

-Brian

Ground up a spinner on the runway, did a great repair with spackle, looked good but made plane wobble most likely because of the AS3X. New spinner and she flew like new.
Are spinners necessary or are the cosmetic? What do you guys think?
Mike

Originally Posted by shastamike

Ground up a spinner on the runway, did a great repair with spackle, looked good but made plane wobble most likely because of the AS3X. New spinner and she flew like new.
Are spinners necessary or are the cosmetic? What do you guys think?
Mike

You put the spinner out of balance when you repaired it. Spinners are purely cosmetic. You should see my Beast... it looks like it's been through a cheese grater. I fly it like I hate it though.

Hey T man,

Do whatever it takes to get your B3D 3S power reliable.
It's worth it!

My 3SB3D has over 200 flights on her.
Stock motor/GWS 5030 prop.
No cooling mods of any type.
I rarely fly in temps over 80° which I'm sure helps to keep things cool.

It takes a ton of power to do the good stuff!!

rc