Originally Posted by TexasFlyer

RC's 3S 180's on the stock motor and prop were AMAZING! Take offs were measured in inches, verticle thrust was "Wow!", KE flight w/o losing altitude was much better, and flight times were better than expected. The only issue is that I kept hitting over-current cutoff - a lot. Some times I could go 8 seconds full throttle up without cuttoff, followed by cut off at straight-n-level. The good news is that throttle would come back after 4-5 seconds so I only used full throttle at altitude. I tried setting the throttle endpoint to 80%, but was still getting cut offs. Any one else have this issue with the stock motor and prop?

I have a GWS 5030 that I need to try, hopefully tomorrow.

Alan

The stock prop a 5"2.75" is very similar in current draw to the GWS 5030 a 5"x3" prop. I am having the cutoff issue. I'm waiting on a 2300kv motor, I'm hoping that will fix the issue.

Joel: I Loved the flying story. This little plane always amazes me when it's flying in winds. Speaking of winds one of the local clubs here had their airshow today with direct 12-18 crosswinds. As I arrived a 80" Jetcat powered plane spun in on the base turn. not a good day for him! It reminded me that I've flown and landed a 2oz foam plane in more wind.

-Brian

Ok anyone else having this issue? I am have go to the LHS again to have my beast3d replaced for the second time. One successful flight, land and turnoff. Install the next battery and the elevator doesn't respond. Tried rebinding and still same result. LHS is replacing it no worries however how many do i have to go through before i have a good one?

Originally Posted by kalmon

The stock prop a 5"2.75" is very similar in current draw to the GWS 5030 a 5"x3" prop. I am having the cutoff issue. I'm waiting on a 2300kv motor, I'm hoping that will fix the issue.

Joel: I Loved the flying story. This little plane always amazes me when it's flying in winds. Speaking of winds one of the local clubs here had their airshow today with direct 12-18 crosswinds. As I arrived a 80" Jetcat powered plane spun in on the base turn. not a good day for him! It reminded me that I've flown and landed a 2oz foam plane in more wind.

-Brian

Brian,

Damn! That sounds like an expensive mistake! Hope the turbine & computer survived intact. The B3D still amazes me nearly every time I fly in strong winds. I often find myself laughing out loud as I surf the turbulence. And it looks like the MIg will dethrone the B3D & take the UM 'best wind-handling' crown. I can hardly imagine a UM that could handle the wind even better than the B3D, but watching the video of the guy flying the Mig at SEFF in 35+ MPH winds has me convinced. According to QQ, they'll be releasing even more AS3X aircraft this year. I can hardly wait!

Regarding the 2300 on 3s - I'm up to about 100 flights with the 2300/5043 on 3s, and have never experienced OCP or thermal shutdown. I am not shy about nailing the throttle - even on a fresh pack. However, I use throttle management throughout the flight. I do not fly around @ WOT. Rather, I go to full 200% power only when the maneuver calls for it.

Joel

Originally Posted by turboparker

Hope the turbine & computer survived intact.

From what I head the turbine spun free and looked ok so there is a good chance it is still good, or at least only minor repairs. Most everything else was a loss though.

Originally Posted by turboparker

According to QQ, they'll be releasing even more AS3X aircraft this year.

This is good and sad news all at once. I can't afford many more nice planes this year!
-Brian

Originally Posted by TexasFlyer

RC's 3S 180's on the stock motor and prop were AMAZING! Take offs were measured in inches, verticle thrust was "Wow!", KE flight w/o losing altitude was much better, and flight times were better than expected. The only issue is that I kept hitting over-current cutoff - a lot. Some times I could go 8 seconds full throttle up without cuttoff, followed by cut off at straight-n-level. The good news is that throttle would come back after 4-5 seconds so I only used full throttle at altitude. I tried setting the throttle endpoint to 80%, but was still getting cut offs. Any one else have this issue with the stock motor and prop?

I have a GWS 5030 that I need to try, hopefully tomorrow.

Alan

Alan,

OCP cutoff on (3S) w/stock 2500Kv motor & stock prop.
Wasn't expecting that.

I've never experienced OCP kicking in on my (3S) B3D w/Stock motor and 5030 prop.
Don't even give it a thought because it's been so flawless for so many flights.
I spend much of my flight time at WOT because I'm such a power and giant KE loop lover.
The verticle performance is totally addictive.

Wasn't flying my B3D much after I experienced the stock motor on (2S) batts.
Hyp (3S) 180s changed all that for me!
She is my most flown plane in my fleet now.

rc

Bought a new Beast 3D a couple of weeks ago...The first time out, on the 4th or 5th battery, experienced an inflight loss of power (OCP maybe), and dumped it in from about 20 feet into high grass. Knocked a chunk of the top wing out, but I taped it back in...

Went out today for the second outing and on the 5th pack, experienced a loss of power again, this time from about 30 feet...No motor, no control surfaces, no nothing...Knocked a wheel pant off, knocked a wing servo off, kinked the lower wing pretty good...

All of this on a completely stock Beast 3D using Hyperion 240 batts and a DX7 radio...I am a fairly experienced flyer (started flying in the mid-80's) and on both occurances, I was flying fairly simple circuits in little to no wind...

Not real happy right now...To be honest, I don't even feel like calling Horizon or spending the $$$ to fix this thing...

Rant over...

How many people have had elevator servo's go out on them??? I am now waiting on another replacement board I cant complain since they are replacing them for free just sucks being grounded when I have 3s packs sitting here

Here is a video of the Beast 3D flying at a local indoor rc club.

E-flite UMX Beast 3D BNF with AS3X Technology (1 min 27 sec)

Hi guys,

Haven't been on the forums for a while due to hectic medical school schedule but I want to get my UMX Beast 3D back in the air. I purchased Hyperion 180 and 240 loose cells and the UMX connectors a while back and never found the time to build some homebrew packs. A baby on the way is not going to help the time to solder situation so I just want to get flying and am going to buy some batteries from rcbabbell. Which one do you guys recommend as I see a lot of options now compared to when I was last active on the forums (~1 year ago). 120 vs 180 vs 240 vs 320...26 ga wire for $17....lightweight ones for $13. No time to research them all and would love some experienced direction from you guys...especially turboparker and rcbabell as I'm just going to go with the recommendation and order 3-6 of them so I can get flying with this beautiful Bay Area weather. Thanks everyone!

Also is there any interest from anyone to buy the Hyperion loose cells and the UMX connectors ? I have 6 UMX connectors that I purchased form rcbabbel last year (new in bag) and 4 new in bag Hyperion 180 1S batteries and 6 new in bag Hyperion 240 1S batteries. Enough to make 5 UMX packs with a spare UMX lead in case you mess one up Take it all for $40 shipped CONUS.

Originally Posted by sixspeed

Hi guys,

Haven't been on the forums for a while due to hectic medical school schedule but I want to get my UMX Beast 3D back in the air. I purchased Hyperion 180 and 240 loose cells and the UMX connectors a while back and never found the time to build some homebrew packs. A baby on the way is not going to help the time to solder situation so I just want to get flying and am going to buy some batteries from rcbabbell. Which one do you guys recommend as I see a lot of options now compared to when I was last active on the forums (~1 year ago). 120 vs 180 vs 240 vs 320...26 ga wire for $17....lightweight ones for $13. No time to research them all and would love some experienced direction from you guys...especially turboparker and rcbabell as I'm just going to go with the recommendation and order 3-6 of them so I can get flying with this beautiful Bay Area weather. Thanks everyone!

A baby and medical school?? Yeesh... I couldn't handle one of those.
I'd try a 3S pack. No one has had a brick failure with them yet and the little Beast becomes a MONSTER on 3S. I'm running 250's but Babbel's 180 3s' would probably be a better weight. I wish mine could fly a touch slower.

Originally Posted by sixspeed

Hi guys,

Haven't been on the forums for a while due to hectic medical school schedule but I want to get my UMX Beast 3D back in the air. I purchased Hyperion 180 and 240 loose cells and the UMX connectors a while back and never found the time to build some homebrew packs. A baby on the way is not going to help the time to solder situation so I just want to get flying and am going to buy some batteries from rcbabbell. Which one do you guys recommend as I see a lot of options now compared to when I was last active on the forums (~1 year ago). 120 vs 180 vs 240 vs 320...26 ga wire for $17....lightweight ones for $13. No time to research them all and would love some experienced direction from you guys...especially turboparker and rcbabell as I'm just going to go with the recommendation and order 3-6 of them so I can get flying with this beautiful Bay Area weather. Thanks everyone!

Email sent.

Thanks for the PM.

rc

Maidened this little plane last weekend. 15 flights since. Running cheap turnigy battaries. Absolutely happy with the plane - snap rolls are snap, edge flight is straight, harriers are easy. Handles slight wind beautifully.
The question is: does it worth to change the prop and motor?

Seen as you are running good packs, I would be looking for a 2300kv motor and a GWS 5043 prop. I've got that combo in an Sbach which is waiting for a new airframe.
Think I'll swap it to the Beast.

The 2500kv motor that comes with the B3D is a bit of a letdown tbh, you want to either go LOUD and it is LOUD! with 3000/5030 or whisper quiet (you hear the servos louder than the motor!) with 2300/5043 which is just about the same performance but a great deal better for parkflying

Originally Posted by sixspeed

Hi guys,

Haven't been on the forums for a while due to hectic medical school schedule but I want to get my UMX Beast 3D back in the air. I purchased Hyperion 180 and 240 loose cells and the UMX connectors a while back and never found the time to build some homebrew packs. A baby on the way is not going to help the time to solder situation so I just want to get flying and am going to buy some batteries from rcbabbell. Which one do you guys recommend as I see a lot of options now compared to when I was last active on the forums (~1 year ago). 120 vs 180 vs 240 vs 320...26 ga wire for $17....lightweight ones for $13. No time to research them all and would love some experienced direction from you guys...especially turboparker and rcbabell as I'm just going to go with the recommendation and order 3-6 of them so I can get flying with this beautiful Bay Area weather. Thanks everyone!

I'd recommend the 240s as the best best for outdoor flying. Let your wallet decide on whether or not you get the lightweight versions, as there is a difference but it is not to bad as long as you get the CG right.

For indoor I'd say lightweight 180s all the way.

If you want to push the limits the 3S 180s are amazing. No reported electronics failures yet. Being in sunny CA you might hit Thermal shutdown during flight just be careful close to the ground as the motor could just quit at any time. At least you'll have all control surfaces still working. If it dies remember the beast glides about the same as the space shuttle did......It doesn't! Just point it down about 45* and get it just above the ground and flare and it'll plop damage free into anything except water.

Hopefully this was helpful for you.

-Brian