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Old Mar 23, 2012, 01:09 PM
Pan Pan, Pan Pan, Mayday
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United Kingdom, Yeadon
Joined Mar 2007
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Took the Beast 3D out again today, 4 more BB240s through it today.

It was much better this time round since I learnt to keep it still after putting the battery in!

A couple of things though: even with the H240 onboard it seemed underpowered on the stock prop
It also needed a lot of left aileron trim and right rudder. Turns to the right were awful - it just sideslipped unless lots of rudder was used...

I landed and adjusted the control surfaces so the trims could be centred, they look way off now on the ground but it flies well.

The wheel pants have gone too! On the second battery one caught in the grass and got pulled off so I took the other off.

All in all though nice flights
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 01:54 PM
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United States, PA, Pittsburgh
Joined Oct 2006
442 Posts
try the gws 5x3 prop on the stock motor , give it lot more power than the stock prop.
Also some people here upgrade the motor to the one in the v1 beast 2300kv or the geebe motor of 3000kv for more power.

Wish begs the question guys does some one of you know any similar motor to the 2300kv or 3000kv on the cheap side?? (29dls its not much i know, at least any more lol).
i mean like hobbyking or any chinesse supplier??


lets say i have 2 beasts one stock and other ready for "upgrades" (i know the eflite ones im looking for the easterns upgrades)
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 02:19 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
11,134 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentPilot View Post
Took the Beast 3D out again today, 4 more BB240s through it today.

It was much better this time round since I learnt to keep it still after putting the battery in!

A couple of things though: even with the H240 onboard it seemed underpowered on the stock prop
It also needed a lot of left aileron trim and right rudder. Turns to the right were awful - it just sideslipped unless lots of rudder was used...

I landed and adjusted the control surfaces so the trims could be centred, they look way off now on the ground but it flies well.

The wheel pants have gone too! On the second battery one caught in the grass and got pulled off so I took the other off.

All in all though nice flights
SP,

I suggest trying the 5030. It provides a noticeable increase in performance & slightly longer flight-times, as it is more efficient than the stocker.

Regarding the excessive trim - you mentioned that it needed lots of left-aileron & right-rudder trim. Sounds like a possible cross-control issue to me. For instance - too much right-rudder trim would cause a roll to starboard, which would require left-aileron to correct. This results in a cross-control situation - the same thing one does on purpose during a forward-slip crosswind landing. However - in normal flight, cross-controlled rudder & ailerons can cause a number of handling problems.

A misaligned vertical or horizontal stab can also cause strange trim issues. I've noticed that a few V1 & 3D Beasts have misaligned tail surfaces. I got into the habit of inspecting my UM planes before leaving the LHS. I once looked at four Beast 3Ds before finding one that was right on the money, alignment-wise. I've seen vertical stabs that weren't quite vertical, and a few that weren't quite parallel to the fuse. I've also seen horizontal stabs that weren't quite horizontal.

For your reference, here is a flight-trimming guide, courtesy of the NSRCA (National Society of Radio Controlled Aerobatics):

http://nsrca.us/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=177:t rimchart&catid=114:flying&Itemid=187

Joel
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 02:51 PM
Pan Pan, Pan Pan, Mayday
SilentPilot's Avatar
United Kingdom, Yeadon
Joined Mar 2007
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Thanks Joel!

I do give all my models a pre-flight check, just like my full size gliders. With the Beast though I'm still a noob. I just check all the wing bracing for security and check for damage.

I have an Sbach with a 3000kv/5030 combo which is spot on power wise, just a bit on the loud side. I'd like to keep the 2500kv on the Beast as it is nice andd quiet. I have another 5030 in stock but think I'll try my 5043 in this one. Does that sound fair?

FYI I fly at sea level at my gliding club and about 500' at home so no mammoth elevation to worry about...

Cheers,
Tony
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 03:05 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Originally Posted by SilentPilot View Post
Thanks Joel!

I do give all my models a pre-flight check, just like my full size gliders. With the Beast though I'm still a noob. I just check all the wing bracing for security and check for damage.

I have an Sbach with a 3000kv/5030 combo which is spot on power wise, just a bit on the loud side. I'd like to keep the 2500kv on the Beast as it is nice and quiet. I have another 5030 in stock but think I'll try my 5043 in this one. Does that sound fair?

FYI I fly at sea level at my gliding club and about 500' at home so no mammoth elevation to worry about...

Cheers,
Tony
That's the first time I've heard that one!! If you like quiet try the 2300kv 5043 combo it really close to the power of the 3000kv 5030 combo, except MUCH quieter..

-Brian
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 03:11 PM
Pan Pan, Pan Pan, Mayday
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United Kingdom, Yeadon
Joined Mar 2007
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Hi Brian,

Yeah I've heard that about the 2300/5043 combo, I'm on the lookout for a cheap 2200/2300kv motor.

Guess I'm just thinking it's quiet compared to my Sbach!!


Tony
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 03:20 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
Joined Dec 2010
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Hope you guys can help me. I've got a Beast 3D receiver and the ESC is not working right. I've gone through the programming to make sure everything is set to the defaults. When throttle is applied, the prop chatters back and forth... the more throttle, the harder the chatter. Sometimes at high throttle it'll start running right, but it has a weird harmonic. The motor shaft gets warm (I'm holding it) during the chatter. I've measure AC voltage through ever pair of the three motor wires and get 6 volts at mid-throttle.

EDIT: It does this with 3 different motors, so that's not it.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 03:38 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
turboparker's Avatar
East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SilentPilot View Post
Thanks Joel!

I do give all my models a pre-flight check, just like my full size gliders. With the Beast though I'm still a noob. I just check all the wing bracing for security and check for damage.

I have an Sbach with a 3000kv/5030 combo which is spot on power wise, just a bit on the loud side. I'd like to keep the 2500kv on the Beast as it is nice andd quiet. I have another 5030 in stock but think I'll try my 5043 in this one. Does that sound fair?

FYI I fly at sea level at my gliding club and about 500' at home so no mammoth elevation to worry about...

Cheers,
Tony
Tony,

You're welcome! Regarding the 2500Kv/5043 combo - many of us find the 5030 to be a much better match to the 2500Kv motor. As has been noted - the 2300Kv/5043 combo dramatically improves vertical performance and top speed, as compared to the 2500Kv motor with any commonly-available, appropriately-sized prop. The 2300Kv/5043 combo provides similar speed & thrust to the 3000Kv/5030 combo - with longer flight-times.

With the 2500Kv motor, I'd go with the 5030 on the B3D.

Joel
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 03:45 PM
Gone Huckin'
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Charlotte, NC
Joined Jan 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Hope you guys can help me. I've got a Beast 3D receiver and the ESC is not working right. I've gone through the programming to make sure everything is set to the defaults. When throttle is applied, the prop chatters back and forth... the more throttle, the harder the chatter. Sometimes at high throttle it'll start running right, but it has a weird harmonic. The motor shaft gets warm (I'm holding it) during the chatter. I've measure AC voltage through ever pair of the three motor wires and get 6 volts at mid-throttle.

EDIT: It does this with 3 different motors, so that's not it.
Sounds like you've got a bad board. I had this happen with a replacement Sbach that was sent to me one time...
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 04:15 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Hope you guys can help me. I've got a Beast 3D receiver and the ESC is not working right. I've gone through the programming to make sure everything is set to the defaults. When throttle is applied, the prop chatters back and forth... the more throttle, the harder the chatter. Sometimes at high throttle it'll start running right, but it has a weird harmonic. The motor shaft gets warm (I'm holding it) during the chatter. I've measure AC voltage through ever pair of the three motor wires and get 6 volts at mid-throttle.

EDIT: It does this with 3 different motors, so that's not it.
Erkq,

I agree with Turnerm. Sounds like a bad ESC.

Not sure what you used to measure the AC, but the frequency & waveform shape of the ESC's output usually causes multimeters to display erroneous readings. Most multimeters are only accurate when measuring sine-waves at or near 60Hz. Some are rated for sine-waves in the audio frequency range. A scope is typically used for measuring the amplitude of complex waveforms, such as those produced by modern ESCs.

Joel
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 04:26 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Quote:
Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Erkq,

I agree with Turnerm. Sounds like a bad ESC.

Not sure what you used to measure the AC, but the frequency & waveform shape of the ESC's output usually causes multimeters to display erroneous readings. Most multimeters are only accurate when measuring sine-waves at or near 60Hz. Some are rated for sine-waves in the audio frequency range. A scope is typically used for measuring the amplitude of complex waveforms, such as those produced by modern ESCs.

Joel
Yeah... should have been clearer about the use of the MM. I realize all that you say but do not own a 'scope. I was only looking for something "different" between the pairs.

Well, dang... lost my AS3X board. What do you do, just throw it out? Can the servo's be taken off and used?
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 07:31 PM
Pan Pan, Pan Pan, Mayday
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United Kingdom, Yeadon
Joined Mar 2007
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
With the 2500Kv motor, I'd go with the 5030 on the B3D.
Thanks Joel!

If I dont get a 2300kv motor then I'll use one of my 5030s
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 07:53 PM
Your customer
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Berkley, MI
Joined Dec 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Yeah... should have been clearer about the use of the MM. I realize all that you say but do not own a 'scope. I was only looking for something "different" between the pairs.

Well, dang... lost my AS3X board. What do you do, just throw it out? Can the servo's be taken off and used?
Check the motor/esc wire connectors for a loose pin connection. Also check to see if the wires are still soldered in place on the board. The next components in the chain would be the fets themselves. These usually show physical damage when they're blown.

If it's a fet, I can replace it for you. Overall, it sounds like your 3 phase bl motor is only running on two phases.

Reference:
http://www.stefanv.com/rcstuff/qf200212.html
http://www.helifreak.com/showthread.php?t=64727
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 07:59 PM
Too much to do not enough time
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Wisconsin
Joined Sep 2010
273 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Well, dang... lost my AS3X board. What do you do, just throw it out? Can the servo's be taken off and used?
Why not call horizon and try to get a new one? Sounds like a defect, so I'd assume they'd replace it.... But you should be able to use the servo mechanics, but they'd need to be soldered onto another board.
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Old Mar 23, 2012, 09:00 PM
**I'm Battman**
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Twin Falls, Idaho
Joined Jan 2005
8,420 Posts
Spring has Sprung!

Beast 3DS addict checking in.

60+ Hyp (3S) 180mAh flights and loving every minute!

I've changed only the prop (GWS 5030) and the batt.

She still flies light enough to spot land her on my driveway.

Her power is spectacular!

AS3X is simply amazing!

rc

Joel received his beta Hyp (3S) 180s this week.
Shoot him a PM and tell him to post a Beast 3DS vid sn.
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