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Old Mar 02, 2012, 02:36 PM
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United States, CA, Sebastopol
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
Regarding the 2300+5043 v. the 3000+5030 combos: They are very close in power with a slight edge to the 3000kv, both are WAY more than stock and noticeable in the air you wont go wrong with either setup.
Agree completely. For me the noise is the determining factor. Some like it noisy. Some like it quiet. I like quiet and it lets me fly more places without disturbing people. So I opt for the 2300kv motor. The servos are louder!
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 02:41 PM
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United States, MI, Grand Traverse
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Originally Posted by erkq View Post
Agree completely. For me the noise is the determining factor. Some like it noisy. Some like it quiet. I like quiet and it lets me fly more places without disturbing people. So I opt for the 2300kv motor. The servos are louder!
lol The servos are louder than my Hacker A40-12s on 4cells with a 15x8!

-Brian
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 02:47 PM
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Originally Posted by kalmon View Post
lol The servos are louder than my Hacker A40-12s on 4cells with a 15x8!

-Brian
Well, yeah... they are loud little suckers. But I sure can't hear them over that screaming 3000kv motor! I think that motor is louder than your Hacker. I have an A30-12XL turning a 15x6 and the little 3000kv hornet is definitely louder than that!
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 04:12 PM
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Ah, I'd love to have a quiet motor. The stock one sounds like a brushed motor to me.
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 11:29 PM
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United States, PA, Pittsburgh
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hi guys, i have a few questions, after reading several pages of the thread of the beast 3d is that the new stock motor is better with 5x3 two blades or the 3 blades?? (i understand the old motor 2300kv and the new 3000kv is better than the stock 2500)
and which of the hyperion batterys is better the 240mah or the 180mah??for an all around performance including 3d)
and the most important question: what prop adaptor should i use for the gws props after searching and searching cant find the proper one.

thxs in advance
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Old Mar 02, 2012, 11:54 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
Joined Jul 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jaas75 View Post
hi guys, i have a few questions, after reading several pages of the thread of the beast 3d is that the new stock motor is better with 5x3 two blades or the 3 blades?? (i understand the old motor 2300kv and the new 3000kv is better than the stock 2500)
and which of the hyperion batterys is better the 240mah or the 180mah??for an all around performance including 3d)
and the most important question: what prop adaptor should i use for the gws props after searching and searching cant find the proper one.

thxs in advance
Use the GWS 5030 with the stock motor - not the 5x3x3.

Since the Hyp 180 2s packs are lighter, they are better for 3D & they're better for indoor flying. But I think the Hyp 240 2s packs are the best for general outdoor flying, pattern aerobatics, and for flying in the wind. I suggest getting both.

The GWS 5030 is a direct fit, so no adapter is required. The spinner also fits the 5030 without modification. Just use some foam-safe ca or other adhesive to reattach it. Be sure to dynamically balance the prop afterward.

Joel
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 08:25 AM
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United States, GA, Marietta
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
Use the GWS 5030 with the stock motor - not the 5x3x3.

Since the Hyp 180 2s packs are lighter, they are better for 3D & they're better for indoor flying. But I think the Hyp 240 2s packs are the best for general outdoor flying, pattern aerobatics, and for flying in the wind. I suggest getting both.

The GWS 5030 is a direct fit, so no adapter is required. The spinner also fits the 5030 without modification. Just use some foam-safe ca or other adhesive to reattach it. Be sure to dynamically balance the prop afterward.

Joel

Dynamically balance?? How is that done Joel?

Should have my V1 and 5043 in a couple days... didn't realize I needed to do that. Also do you know if I will need an adapter with the V1 or is it direct fit also?

Thanks
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 09:16 AM
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Originally Posted by dragonshade View Post
Dynamically balance?? How is that done Joel?

Should have my V1 and 5043 in a couple days... didn't realize I needed to do that. Also do you know if I will need an adapter with the V1 or is it direct fit also?

Thanks
No adapter needed. However, when using the 5043 on the V1 motor, you may need to either remove the spinner back-plate or use a longer prop-screw, due to the 5043's thicker hub. You also have to remove a bit of foam from the inside of the spinner to get it to fit the 5043's thicker hub.

Regarding dynamic balance - it's really easy. Just spool her up in your hand & check the vibration level. Temporarily put a small piece of clear packing tape on the backside of one blade & spool her up again. If the vibration gets worse, move the tape to the other blade. If it gets better, add more tape & try again. I usually get it right within a few iterations. This method balances the entire rotating assembly, rather than just the prop.

Joel
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 11:35 AM
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subscribed.

RF
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 12:15 PM
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United States, GA, Marietta
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Originally Posted by turboparker View Post
No adapter needed. However, when using the 5043 on the V1 motor, you may need to either remove the spinner back-plate or use a longer prop-screw, due to the 5043's thicker hub. You also have to remove a bit of foam from the inside of the spinner to get it to fit the 5043's thicker hub.

Regarding dynamic balance - it's really easy. Just spool her up in your hand & check the vibration level. Temporarily put a small piece of clear packing tape on the backside of one blade & spool her up again. If the vibration gets worse, move the tape to the other blade. If it gets better, add more tape & try again. I usually get it right within a few iterations. This method balances the entire rotating assembly, rather than just the prop.

Joel
As always thanks Joel

I ordered a new spinner with the motor and props.. figured I would mount a permanent 5043 and keep the original stock also. If I remove the backplate will that effect anything? Not sure how to get a longer prop screw unless I can just match it at a hardware store... what have you done?

Got it on the tape thing.. if the tape smooths it should I leave the tape on it??
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Old Mar 03, 2012, 12:50 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Originally Posted by dragonshade View Post
As always thanks Joel

I ordered a new spinner with the motor and props.. figured I would mount a permanent 5043 and keep the original stock also. If I remove the backplate will that effect anything? Not sure how to get a longer prop screw unless I can just match it at a hardware store... what have you done?

Got it on the tape thing.. if the tape smooths it should I leave the tape on it??
You're welcome! If I remember correctly, RCBabbel found a longer screw that works. When I use the 5043, I run it without the backplate so I can use the stock screw, and I just glue the spinner to the prop hub.

Regarding the tape - yes, if it works, you leave it on the backside of the blade. Be sure that it is smooth & wrinkle-free. There are other methods. Some people put the prop on their prop balancer & either sand the backside of the heavier blade near the tip, or use some clear-coat on the tip of the lighter blade. A prop balancer allows one to accurately balance the prop, but other things also affect the balance of the rotating assembly - such as the spinner, propshaft/adapter, and sometimes the motor itself.

Joel
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 02:33 PM
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has anybody tried a 6x3 or is that just ridiculous?
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 03:21 PM
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As is my normal way even though the B3D was grounded for engine issues I got off work Saturday (to no new motor yet)... and near perfect flying conditions (cloudy.. no bright sun, and wind about 3mph). So... I just had to fly

8 flights... not a single motor issue, and minor servo hunting on that aileron twice for less than a second. Weird. Again... LOVE this plane, and am really looking forward to the V1 and 5043. She just seems slow to me now. Guess I have a total of 60 flights on it now... and as I am a newbie (maybe 100 rc plane flights total) I have not tried 3D before, but was able to harrier the plane quite well Saturday.

Looking closely I have a definite crease on the elevator at the control horn.. same spot and look I have seen through this thread that has torn on others. I cut a 3" 1mm carbon fiber rod which I am going to CA right behind the control horn.. actually touching and ca'd to the horn also. Gonna be using thin CA and doing a clean job. Plan on a 1/4" piece on packing tape to cover it. Question is should I put it on the bottom or top of the elevator or will it make any difference at all?
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 03:29 PM
Gopher huntin' stick jockey
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East Bethel, MN USA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sfactor1 View Post
has anybody tried a 6x3 or is that just ridiculous?
SF,

Yup. Way too much prop for the stock power system.

Dave,

I put mine on the bottom for aesthetics reasons, but I doubt that it matters aerodynamically.

Joel
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Old Mar 05, 2012, 03:30 PM
LiPo-Sucker & Airframe EMT
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Charlottesville, Virginia, USA
Joined Aug 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dragonshade View Post
.....Question is should I put it on the bottom or top of the elevator or will it make any difference at all?
For aesthetics, I prefer putting it on the bottom.

That's for both women and aircraft.

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