The 'feedback you get from the wing camera is much better, gives coloured lights and a little vibration of confirmation when you select stuff, can plugin to a tv to set the parameters with real text to read. Can set it to start on movement and take just pics or vids, nice options.

I don't have mine at the mo as it was lent to my bro for mountain biking but it's a good product

I've heard and found some reviews in the past that the 808 has better video quality than the hobbyking cam.
This video is the older 808 Vs the hobbyking cam, I don't own any of them though.

808 #11 Keychain camera Vs Hobbyking HD "Wing" Camera (2 min 4 sec)

The new V2 808 #16 is improved and could be purchased with 120deg lens. Would be nice if it would have been 170deg.
Been considering of getting the V2 808 #16 120deg. - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-DVR-808...item2320930f5f


My OLD Sony Bloggie on my 737:

FPV PLANE - Sony BLOGGIE HD cam with Fish Eye Lens (3 min 11 sec)

& my real cheap & $12 Cam

WINDRIDER 737-700 KLM (4 min 38 sec)

Originally Posted by Spyro37

I've heard and found some reviews in the past that the 808 has better video quality than the hobbyking cam.The new V2 808 #16 is improved and could be purchased with 120deg lens.

I made a couple of videos with the 808 #16 mounted on my Hoten-X. The first video I posted was using the B lens. I also made a little test video using the new 808 #16 with the D lens which is about 120º.

Here are the two videos again so you can see the difference.

New 808 #16 HD Camera with B Lens:

Hoten Aerial Video 3 (3 min 3 sec)

New 808 #16 HD Camera with D Lens:

Hoten-X Aerial Video Test (2 min 24 sec)

Regards,
John

John, both videos looks great. I prefer the 120deg lens though.
Question, did you upload the actual file, or was edited?
I noticed that it's on 480p, did you record it with that resolution?
I have a couple of quads, and it seemed that the 808 #16 D lens is my best bet for price, size, video quality, and weight.
My old keychain cam is not HD, while my Sony Bloggie HD is weighs a ton.
That's why I've been looking into getting the 808 #16, with D lens.

- Spyro

Originally Posted by Spyro37

John, both videos looks great. I prefer the 120deg lens though.
Question, did you upload the actual file, or was edited?
I noticed that it's on 480p, did you record it with that resolution?
I have a couple of quads, and it seemed that the 808 #16 D lens is my best bet for price, size, video quality, and weight.
My old keychain cam is not HD, while my Sony Bloggie HD is weighs a ton.
That's why I've been looking into getting the 808 #16, with D lens.

- Spyro

I think the only lighter option is to have a video sender or just do away with the cameras battery all together.

Although, even the rather puny 929 carries it case and all just taped to the bottom.

v929 precision flying and swoopy practice 2.avi (16 min 41 sec)

New question, Hi,
Just wanted to say I tried to remove the feathering shaft from my V120DO2S V2 and the little screw stripped on one side of the grips, must have been locktite or something similar.
So anyway could not get the little sucker out.
I ended up ordering the upgrade metal head assembly from e-bay, Just wondering if anyone else has the metal head assembly and what do you think of it as far as performance or otherwise?

Anyone know where to order pinions from? I put in a new motor and it really needs a smaller pinion on it. Super high HS but no torque to speak of, not only that but it seems to hit a certain point and then start bogging even harder very suddenly.

I was working on continuous front flips this morning and got a bit deep in the collective on the fourth or fifth flip and suddenly I had no headspeed and the tail let go. I tried going to zero collective to get some head speed and cyclic back but it was no good, now I need a new head and swash. $(&*^#$(*#.

While I like this thing as a beater I'm starting to feel like power/battery/durability issues are almost making it not worth it. Maybe I'll snag a new V120 and some new batteries or just designate my 250 as my beater as soon as a build a bigger heli. Just a little frustrated that's all.

Anyone with the 3 axis v120d02s, please could you share your board pot positions?

Got 3 full batteries through her today with some gentle circuits and a little inverted hovering but not feeling in touch with the heli. Love the extra power after only flying the mini and super but it feels less precise at the moment.

Also I have a right yaw problem but only in faster forward flight, hovering and slow flight it is not noticeable. The faster I go, the more it adds a touch right yaw on it's own. Tried the tail giro from 75 to 95 and can't find a sweet spot either. Can anyone help here?

Originally Posted by TucsonFlyer

Anyone know where to order pinions from? I put in a new motor and it really needs a smaller pinion on it. Super high HS but no torque to speak of, not only that but it seems to hit a certain point and then start bogging even harder very suddenly.

I was working on continuous front flips this morning and got a bit deep in the collective on the fourth or fifth flip and suddenly I had no headspeed and the tail let go. I tried going to zero collective to get some head speed and cyclic back but it was no good, now I need a new head and swash. $(&*^#$(*#.

While I like this thing as a beater I'm starting to feel like power/battery/durability issues are almost making it not worth it. Maybe I'll snag a new V120 and some new batteries or just designate my 250 as my beater as soon as a build a bigger heli. Just a little frustrated that's all.

I use 130x pinions. Same .4 mod gears. I got mine on ebay, but you can get them lots of places now.

Originally Posted by microrcfiend

Anyone with the 3 axis v120d02s, please could you share your board pot positions?

Got 3 full batteries through her today with some gentle circuits and a little inverted hovering but not feeling in touch with the heli. Love the extra power after only flying the mini and super but it feels less precise at the moment.

Also I have a right yaw problem but only in faster forward flight, hovering and slow flight it is not noticeable. The faster I go, the more it adds a touch right yaw on it's own. Tried the tail giro from 75 to 95 and can't find a sweet spot either. Can anyone help here?

As far as precision I hear the Upgrade metal head assembly offers more precision feeling from the heli I hope so anyway because I just bought one.

Originally Posted by microrcfiend

Anyone with the 3 axis v120d02s, please could you share your board pot positions?

Got 3 full batteries through her today with some gentle circuits and a little inverted hovering but not feeling in touch with the heli. Love the extra power after only flying the mini and super but it feels less precise at the moment.

Also I have a right yaw problem but only in faster forward flight, hovering and slow flight it is not noticeable. The faster I go, the more it adds a touch right yaw on it's own. Tried the tail giro from 75 to 95 and can't find a sweet spot either. Can anyone help here?

ELEV/AILE G. 11 O CLOCK, ELEV/AILE EXT 11:30 O CLOCK almost 12 O CLOCK, RUDD EXT 3 O CLOCK
Edit: Glad you got a V1 3axis, my V2 6 axis sucks, it on the shelf & I only fly my V1's now.

Originally Posted by Crash Survivor

ELEV/AILE G. 11 O CLOCK, ELEV/AILE EXT 11:30 O CLOCK almost 12 O CLOCK, RUDD EXT 3 O CLOCK
Edit: Glad you got a V1 3axis, my V2 6 axis sucks, it on the shelf & I only fly my V1's now.

Thanks, that's real close to what I have set so I guess it must just be pitch and rates need dialing in a touch more.

Would it be the tail rod set wrong or giro wrong that would let the tail slide CW in FFF only? Seems solid in light pitch pumps.

I bought the 6 axis by mistake and 3 hovers was enough for me to send the rx back with the hope that it was faulty, nothing I did to the swash or mounting of rx changed the back and very left drift, really strong too. I just bought the 3 axis rx for £40 in the hope I could get something flyable. Seem to be getting close to it now.

My Super cp has the same left problem but it's really subtle on that little fellow and mild flying around covers it up. I now read the new minicp and ladybird software do the same - probably a new 'feature' from Walkera for noobs like their TH delay


Lastly, I saved some notes reading this thread but have a bunch of contradicting stuff on turning the boom over.

Do I just and flip direction of the blades or remove the blade grips? Do the little support arms need turning round if the grips do?

Thanks

Originally Posted by microrcfiend

Thanks, that's real close to what I have set so I guess it must just be pitch and rates need dialing in a touch more.

Would it be the tail rod set wrong or giro wrong that would let the tail slide CW in FFF only? Seems solid in light pitch pumps.

I bought the 6 axis by mistake and 3 hovers was enough for me to send the rx back with the hope that it was faulty, nothing I did to the swash or mounting of rx changed the back and very left drift, really strong too. I just bought the 3 axis rx for £40 in the hope I could get something flyable. Seem to be getting close to it now.

My Super cp has the same left problem but it's really subtle on that little fellow and mild flying around covers it up. I now read the new minicp and ladybird software do the same - probably a new 'feature' from Walkera for noobs like their TH delay


Lastly, I saved some notes reading this thread but have a bunch of contradicting stuff on turning the boom over.

Do I just and flip direction of the blades or remove the blade grips? Do the little support arms need turning round if the grips do?

Thanks

That's exactly what my V2 does, got tired of wasting my time with it. Haven't turned the boom over but I think you have to remove the blade grips around. It could be your tail rod not set right causing tail slide CW in FFF. To set servo tail rod up set position 2 on mix switch to 20%/rate mode & adjust for neutral yaw in hover. If you have crashed it make sure your tail shaft sleeve is still locked into your tail steering set.

Originally Posted by RaymondM

New question, Hi,
Just wanted to say I tried to remove the feathering shaft from my V120DO2S V2 and the little screw stripped on one side of the grips, must have been locktite or something similar.
So anyway could not get the little sucker out.
I ended up ordering the upgrade metal head assembly from e-bay, Just wondering if anyone else has the metal head assembly and what do you think of it as far as performance or otherwise?

The CNC rotor head is likely heavier than the stock plastic one. Flight times and performance may be limited slightly due to the extra weight. Previous models came stock with CNC rotor heads. What made the V120D02S so popular in the first place was that it was superior to previous models because it had the current design and was made out of plastic, which proved to be more durable. The new V120D02S CNC rotor does look a bit nicer than previous V120D02 and V120D05 rotor heads. In a crash, the anodized black surfaces will scratch off, showing silver aluminum under. Otherwise, it should fly just fine. Especially if basic sport flight is all your doing. The extra weight is a hindrance for 3D.

Originally Posted by TucsonFlyer

Anyone know where to order pinions from? I put in a new motor and it really needs a smaller pinion on it. Super high HS but no torque to speak of, not only that but it seems to hit a certain point and then start bogging even harder very suddenly.

I was working on continuous front flips this morning and got a bit deep in the collective on the fourth or fifth flip and suddenly I had no headspeed and the tail let go. I tried going to zero collective to get some head speed and cyclic back but it was no good, now I need a new head and swash. $(&*^#$(*#.

While I like this thing as a beater I'm starting to feel like power/battery/durability issues are almost making it not worth it. Maybe I'll snag a new V120 and some new batteries or just designate my 250 as my beater as soon as a build a bigger heli. Just a little frustrated that's all.

Ouch, it sounds like you hit pretty hard. I have only broken, maybe, 2 swashplates for the V120. They are pretty tough. You can try the 130X 9T pinion. It's the easiest to find, but you might consider ordering a 8T from here: http://www.shop.kkpmo.com/product_in...roducts_id=602

Today i received the parts to get my V120D02S back in the air. But in the mean time it's been the D05 burning up my 1S packs. I've been having some awesome flights at the field too! But today i crashed the D05 and shattered the last set of 130X blades i had. Sure, the 130X blades are soft, flexible and seem to absorb most of the impact damages. But they also shatter on concrete if you hit them hard enough. I suppose replacing $10 sets of blades is just getting old. But at least it's not shafts and gears all the time. Here is two flights. One from yesterday with the KDBB blades and one from today with the stock D02S blades. The D02S blades wobble less, so they are more stable in that aspect. I managed to fly the same amount of time i usually would and didn't get much bogging. The stock blades are pretty good, but i expect to break more heli parts with them equipped.

V120D05CS08 - 3D flips and rolls (5 min 18 sec)

V120D05CS08 - Using D02S Stock blades 2 (5 min 17 sec)

Check out my youtube channel for the most recent flights with the bigger helis: http://www.youtube.com/user/IntegrityRC