Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100

Thanks for the info! I was hoping that the BEC in the cc 10 was going to be enough to step down voltage, but I haven't played with it yet.

Rafa

The cc 10a bec outputs 5v non adjustable in the software.

I'd be interested in hearing if those servos were compatible with the replacement gears and if they were similar in performance.

Zadaw - Do yo mean a slow right roll during forward flight? Why is the orientation from left to right important, sorry if I have not understood. Will heli lose lots of height during the transition if moving slow?

I would expect more stability out of the v2 when inverted or not but transitions to be less smooth. Are you saying transition is better and more accurate with v2? What about faster flight with same move?

Do you happen to have online video?

Originally Posted by flint723

The cc 10a bec outputs 5v non adjustable in the software. The xp-12a on the other hand, does have an adjustable bec if you flash it with the blheli firmware.

Do you have a source for this? I'm very interested.

Originally Posted by sbstnp

Do you have a source for this? I'm very interested.

http://astroid-designs.myshopify.com...-and-downloads

Originally Posted by sbstnp

Do you have a source for this? I'm very interested.

I just spent 15 minutes looking for where I read that, and I can't find it now. I guess I'll edit that out since I don't know if it's true.

FWIW, one of the reasons I decided to go with Castle is that Asteroid never returned the email I sent them early this week. :=(

Rafa

Originally Posted by flint723

I just spent 15 minutes looking for where I read that, and I can't find it now. I guess I'll edit that out since I don't know if it's true.

Originally Posted by flint723

I just spent 15 minutes looking for where I read that, and I can't find it now. I guess I'll edit that out since I don't know if it's true.

I have a Plush 12A on hand, I only need to find a replacement tip for my Donau 8W soldering iron so I can solder a flashing header on. I know it's not the same thing as an XP12A but I will test if BLHeli allows customizable BEC output. That would be amazing for 2S conversions.

[QUOTE=Crash Survivor;23780677]

Originally Posted by lasakro

I'll have to experiment with it, but if guessing right less/counter clockwise a bird on crack & more clockwise a bird in a straight jacket.

i think you just described it precisely above! the gyro gain pot is the FBL's heart. turning it fully CCW turns it off, bird on crack, twitchy! fully CW, bird on straight jacket, wobbly in flight resisting movement! we just want to get the max gain (turn CW) to cancel out the wobbles and get the most out of the gyro.

i've tried lowering the gyro gain pot and the bird does become quite slippery then you need to "fly" it more. with the gain raised a tad higher then the bird seems to resist movement near the stick neutral position. although this can be resolved by raising the aile/elev ext pot to a higher value. mine are all set 12o'clock position for both pots, gives me decent cyclic rates and good gyro feedback.

rafa claims binding heli in various orientations didn't even affect the bird. although i never tried it before. i just based it on my experience with my FBL100 where binding is mandatory level heli otherwise it flies off trim. so this is common practice for FBL systems. 6-axis mystery still a mystery! hehe

Okay, so i got board and went to put a 9T pinion i've had for a while on in place of my 10T pinion. I never wanted to pull my 10T pinion because if i do i won't be able to get it to hold again probably. I'm out of pinion glue and don't want to get more. The drill hole is rather worn out, as is the outside of the teeth. It's had probably 500 flights or more. Hard to say.

Anyway, The 9T pinion... This has left me very confused about something i was POSITIVE about.... So what pinion modulus are people using today for the V120d02S????





Okay, the problem is. The 9T 0.4m pinion i have here did not mesh with the main gear properly! I measured it and checked the modulus myself, just to be sure (Diameter (mm) / Tooth count = Modulus). The 9T pinion came out to 0.44444, something like that. So if the pinion i have is a 9T 0.4m pinion. Why doesn't it mesh with the main gear?!? The pinion teeth are too small...

So i took my caliper and measured the stock 10T pinion from the D02S. That ended up being 0.5m?? So the proper size for the V120D02S would be 0.5m if that information and calculation is correct. The Stock pinion measured 5mm diameter / 10T. So i'm very confused right now because i really was certain. Hell i've read it other places enough times too. Does anyone have a 0.4m 9T pinion they can measure and see if my particular pinion is just some "off size" toothing or something?

Originally Posted by microrcfiend

I'd be interested in hearing if those servos were compatible with the replacement gears and if they were similar in performance.

Zadaw - Do yo mean a slow right roll during forward flight? Why is the orientation from left to right important, sorry if I have not understood. Will heli lose lots of height during the transition if moving slow?

I would expect more stability out of the v2 when inverted or not but transitions to be less smooth. Are you saying transition is better and more accurate with v2? What about faster flight with same move?

Do you happen to have online video?

I mean a slow left half roll from upright to inverted during upright flight. R rolls are harder but can still be down. The exact orientation is not important; I am just suggesting a way for others to try it out. This is because transitions viewed from the side are quite tough and any differences more noticeable. Also, it is much tougher to do a half roll when the heli is flying slowly since you will lose less height with a fast flight.

Transitions are much smoother for me because the heli regains balance much more quickly with the 6 axis gyro. Whereas those with 3 axis gyros will lose much more height and you have to compensate much faster.

Originally Posted by zadaw

I mean a slow left half roll from upright to inverted during upright flight. R rolls are harder but can still be down. The exact orientation is not important; I am just suggesting a way for others to try it out. Transitions are much smoother for me because the heli regains balance much more quickly with the 6 axis gyro. Whereas those with 3 axis gyros will lose much more height and you have to compensate much faster.

Are you saying that because the heli will return to "level" more on it's own it allows you to control the pitch better, since your focus is not so much on the cyclic anymore?

[QUOTE=hawk01;23785835]

Originally Posted by Crash Survivor

i think you just described it precisely above! the gyro gain pot is the FBL's heart. turning it fully CCW turns it off, bird on crack, twitchy! fully CW, bird on straight jacket, wobbly in flight resisting movement! we just want to get the max gain (turn CW) to cancel out the wobbles and get the most out of the gyro.

i've tried lowering the gyro gain pot and the bird does become quite slippery then you need to "fly" it more. with the gain raised a tad higher then the bird seems to resist movement near the stick neutral position. although this can be resolved by raising the aile/elev ext pot to a higher value. mine are all set 12o'clock position for both pots, gives me decent cyclic rates and good gyro feedback.

rafa claims binding heli in various orientations didn't even affect the bird. although i never tried it before. i just based it on my experience with my FBL100 where binding is mandatory level heli otherwise it flies off trim. so this is common practice for FBL systems. 6-axis mystery still a mystery! hehe

Great flight in this evening between the rain we been having. No drift but did bind with it only on the skids, tail fin not touching no drift at all looking good. This is my V2 which was real close to going to the shelf & still might. Have a V1 on Devo with stock motor which might get the HP08S & a WK 2801 with a HP08S 16500KV & it's awesome. V2 ELEV/AILE G at 11 O-clock. ELEV/AILE EXT at 1 1/2 O-clock not enough, flip rate to slow cause I fly low in my front yard. Think I'll max ELEV/AILE EXT out next time. Got plenty of power HP08S 16500KV. Didn't hear my 4 & 1/2 timer go off and landed at 6 minutes stock battery & still plenty of power but battery was at 3.65V after it cooled off lower than I like. Those who are thinking about going 2S, I would recommend HP08S 16500KV with a 8T. Less weight than stock & no bogging.

Originally Posted by Crash Survivor

Great flight in this evening between the rain we been having. No drift but did bind with it only on the skids, tail fin not touching no drift at all looking good. This is my V2 which was real close to going to the shelf & still might. Have a V1 on Devo with stock motor which might the HP08S & a WK 2801 with a HP08S 16500KV & it's awesome. ELEV/AILE G at 11 O-clock. ELEV/AILE EXT at 1 1/2 O-clock not enough, flip rate to slow cause I fly low in my front yard. Think I'll max ELEV/AILE EXT out next time. Got plenty of power HP08S 16500KV. Didn't hear my 4 & 1/2 timer go off and landed at 6 minutes stock battery & still plenty of power but battery was at 3.65V after it cooled off lower than I like. Those who are thinking about going 2S, I would recommend HP08S 16500KV with a 8T. Less weight than stock & no bogging.

What modulus pinions did you order? Are they meshing with the gear well? I think i got a screwy pinion here.

Before maxing your cyclic ext pot. Did you by any chance try flipping the heli forward and backward? Sometimes the neutral pitch of the heli can really effect rotation rate in one direction or the other. Thats why we set zero pitch at neutral. Otherwise the pitch and cyclic pitch ranges can be skewed to one side. So a front flip might be really fast with a slight positive skew, but back flips would be slow, or slower than expected because you need more stick to do it now, and the same the opposite way around.

Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

Are you saying that because the heli will return to "level" more on it's own it allows you to control the pitch better, since your focus is not so much on the cyclic anymore?

Yes, this is what I mean. You don't have to use as much cyclic and apply it as fast to bring the heli to a level position again .This is why it looks much smoother and is easier to do.

Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk

Okay, so i got board and went to put a 9T pinion i've had for a while on in place of my 10T pinion. I never wanted to pull my 10T pinion because if i do i won't be able to get it to hold again probably. I'm out of pinion glue and don't want to get more. The drill hole is rather worn out, as is the outside of the teeth. It's had probably 500 flights or more. Hard to say.

Anyway, The 9T pinion... This has left me very confused about something i was POSITIVE about.... So what pinion modulus are people using today for the V120d02S????





Okay, the problem is. The 9T 0.4m pinion i have here did not mesh with the main gear properly! I measured it and checked the modulus myself, just to be sure (Diameter (mm) / Tooth count = Modulus). The 9T pinion came out to 0.44444, something like that. So if the pinion i have is a 9T 0.4m pinion. Why doesn't it mesh with the main gear?!? The pinion teeth are too small...

So i took my caliper and measured the stock 10T pinion from the D02S. That ended up being 0.5m?? So the proper size for the V120D02S would be 0.5m if that information and calculation is correct. The Stock pinion measured 5mm diameter / 10T. So i'm very confused right now because i really was certain. Hell i've read it other places enough times too. Does anyone have a 0.4m 9T pinion they can measure and see if my particular pinion is just some "off size" toothing or something?

v120d02s is not mod .5, I have a bunch of .5 pinions left over from my mini cp and they have bigger teeth. It is mod .4, it just sounds like they sent you the wrong pinion. I ordered mine off ebay as 9t 130x pinion (which is also mod .4)