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Old Nov 20, 2012, 09:59 AM
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Originally Posted by ju204 View Post
I happend to destroy 2 screw holes on my frame. Tried to glue the screws with blue loctite, but that was a bad idea, and both screws went out.
Anyone got an idea? I don't want to buy a frame just for that, and I have to screw / unscrew those a lot for maintenance.
Depends how bad the screw holes are ... and not sure after the thread lock as that damages the plastic but you should be able to use CA
Put a small drop on the screw or the hole ... screw it all the way in and keep turning it (in and out) till ithe CA starts to go off. Then remove and clean the screw. Wait till the CA is solid and you should be good to go.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 10:53 AM
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Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
I would try using larger diameter screws.
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Originally Posted by rangebound View Post
Depends how bad the screw holes are ... and not sure after the thread lock as that damages the plastic but you should be able to use CA
Put a small drop on the screw or the hole ... screw it all the way in and keep turning it (in and out) till ithe CA starts to go off. Then remove and clean the screw. Wait till the CA is solid and you should be good to go.
I'll try to go for both ideas, since I found a little longer screws that can grab the screw hole where it is OK, and put a drop of CA for the entry part.
Still the loctite was a real bad idea, it did not even really dry (24h), and was all over the hole.
EDIT: Did the CA trick and works as advertised! Many thanks
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Last edited by ju204; Nov 20, 2012 at 11:59 AM. Reason: feedback
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 12:10 PM
WarpQuad, Flip260FPV, etc.
Tampa,FL
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Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
You may find the 3 axis devo version flies better than the 2801 pro version. There was some latency reported for the 2801 pro protocol. This lag in response is no longer seen with the Devo protocol and you should feel more connected with the heli.
Well, after running a pack through her today (in fairly breezy weather) I can't say it's better than the 2801 but definitely as good. No drama flying fff or otherwise. the only difference I notice between the 3 vs 6 axis devo rx (aside from stable full speed flight) is the 6axis rx seemed to require less correction to maintain a stationary hover but I don't just sit and hover anyway so no loss there.

Quite happy now


This probably isn't the best post to try to sell it in seeing as how I obviously didn't like the way it flew but.....
Anyone interested in a slightly used rx2636H-D rx? I'de let it go for 50 bucks shipped in the continental US.

PM me if interested
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 01:50 PM
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You could put a dab of epoxy in the hole and re drill it to size.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 01:58 PM
This is gonna hurt.........
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USA, OR, Sandy
Joined Mar 2009
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piro comp

Ok, so as to the piro compensation issue, being that its very basic and all fbl systems these days have it in their firmware, forget why walkera didn't do it,,,,but if they were to step up and make things right with their fbl systems to include it, is there any reason that it couldn't just be a firmware update able to download into the unit?.. and if so, I wonder how much pressure it would take to get them to do it. It seems that if they did, they would have the only micro that REALLY works like one should. I'm convinced this the best micro out there, but it really should have piro comp. There is no reason not to have it these days. It would bring this heli into a whole new level of being a true bird able to do what helis should do.
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 05:36 PM
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I did the sheer pin mod to protect the main gear from stripping. I actually use paper clip that breaks exactly (and only) when it is needed.
Over the last 2 months, I did not strip any tooth, but I noticed the gear pin hole is enlarged. So much that I preferred to change the gear
Actually the pin I use is somewhat thinner than the original, so it is not totally tight in the shaft/pin.
Anyone got a tip for this? (I might actually try the CA tip on this problem too!)
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Old Nov 20, 2012, 07:31 PM
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I use 18ga aluminum picture hanging wire from ACE hardware ~$4 for 50 ft. It is just slightly larger than the original pin so I ream out the main shaft just a tad with a carbide reamer. The wire goes through the plastic hub fine but the main shaft hole needs enlarged.

Good Luck, Don

Quote:
Originally Posted by ju204 View Post
I did the sheer pin mod to protect the main gear from stripping. I actually use paper clip that breaks exactly (and only) when it is needed.
Over the last 2 months, I did not strip any tooth, but I noticed the gear pin hole is enlarged. So much that I preferred to change the gear
Actually the pin I use is somewhat thinner than the original, so it is not totally tight in the shaft/pin.
Anyone got a tip for this? (I might actually try the CA tip on this problem too!)
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 02:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dbennettya View Post
I use 18ga aluminum picture hanging wire from ACE hardware ~$4 for 50 ft. It is just slightly larger than the original pin so I ream out the main shaft just a tad with a carbide reamer. The wire goes through the plastic hub fine but the main shaft hole needs enlarged.

Good Luck, Don
+1 ... Picked this up from your posts in the 4G6 thread a while ago - Its saved me so many headaches cant thank you enough.
I got some 1mm ally wire off ebay (UK £3 for 12m) it fit first time, no mods. It does shear on Every crash though, even heavy landings with TH on, but I still wont stop using it until I never crash!

try this (£5.50 posted to the US):

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12M-BLACK-...item416db6d2c6
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 08:44 AM
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Yeah, plastic and loctite do NOT mix-- it will dissolve the plastic.
CA is ok to act like expoxy for screws mounted into plastic, but don't try to use CA as a "filler"-- vibrations will just crack it and it will fail.

To fill stripped out holes, +1 on the expoxy. You can fill it then tap a new hole.


Chief
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Old Nov 21, 2012, 08:58 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BHChieftain View Post
Yeah, plastic and loctite do NOT mix-- it will dissolve the plastic.
CA is ok to act like expoxy for screws mounted into plastic, but don't try to use CA as a "filler"-- vibrations will just crack it and it will fail.

To fill stripped out holes, +1 on the expoxy. You can fill it then tap a new hole.


Chief
They make Thread Lock for plastic. Permatex, which is a spinoff company from loctite has it.
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 09:11 AM
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Thanks a lot for the answers. It is crazy how helpful you guys are on this forum. I have to say I am far from any other hobbyist, so it is pretty hard to get advices.

Another question:
I am doing mild 3d, started flips with my v120d02s couple of months ago. I can do front flip very easily, side flips on both sides. I am spending more and more time reversed (statio 5-10 sec, still improving every day).
The trick I really have issues with is back flip: Every time I backflip, the heli is going crazy on the left. I think it only starts on the second part of the turn. I usually manage to avoid crash, but it is really not a nice flip.
I really don't understand, it seems to me, the heli does not lock on the front axis like it would do with front flips I do not have this issue at all with simu and this happens whatever the wind conditions are ...)
Any advice?
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 11:35 AM
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Taiwan, Hsinchu City
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ju204 View Post
Another question:

The trick I really have issues with is back flip: Every time I backflip, the heli is going crazy on the left. I think it only starts on the second part of the turn. I
Any advice?
There are some gap of background knowledge of physics that you need to get into this question. I tend to jump that and say simple words. Every direction of flip tend to drift to its perpendicular side in contercolockwise way. The center of mass of main blade deviating from its long axis causes these strange behavior. The backward flip is most obvious because the wind by tail blade make the drift severe.Name: DSCF3499-800.jpg
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Two ways of solution you can try to compensate. One, practice hardly until you get use to it. Two, set the PROGMIX-> ELVE to AILE for upward control.
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Old Nov 22, 2012, 01:12 PM
This is gonna hurt.........
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USA, OR, Sandy
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It could be as simple as how the human hand is formed.
I teach people all the time to fly and its quite often people have an issue with either front or back flips. It's hard to explain but if you put out your thumbs like your holding your tx and pretend your doing a flip. If you watch your thumb it will naturally want to move in a slight arch and not straight up and down like the pot wants in the tx. So as your doing a flip, you could very well be bumping the ale slightly, and as you go around, it just gets more pronounced.
You could try upping your expo on your aleron and elevator to see if that helps. What your describing is not incommon with newer pilots. I got to play with a tx made in Germany several years ago that had this issue resolved by how the gimbles were made and able to rotate in the tx housing to suit the pilot. This same issue takes place with the collective and rudder as your changing your pitch, bumping the rudder wall in the tx.
One way I have helped with this is to have the collective stick real loose so that the throttle / collective stick moves very smooth so that if you bump the rudder channel, its very easy to feel as the rudder is spring loaded.
Also, if you sim with say phoenix, you can set it so you can see your stick movements on screen and have a friend watch your sticks on the screen to see if your bumping the rudder or ale. That's how I got busted doing it long ago. Once I knew what was going on, I just had to concentrate more on correct movements and get more air time. Over time you will gain better muscle memory and it will come together for ya. For what its worth, my 120 flips exactly in place in any direction. But that's just years of training, nothing fancy.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 02:35 AM
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Both answers let me believe the problem is between the ground and the TX. I tried to check my movement on simu but nothing obvious. I tried to decrease expo on simu to see better little mistakes ...
I'll practice more!
EDIT: Today I tried some extra back flip (focusing on having the right hand move), and it was nothing better. I usually start a flip statio, so I tried to front flip with some forward speed, it was actually smoother since the heli was facing the right direction, so I tried some backflips going backward, and this was catastrophic (saved the heli twice and broke my paper clip main gear pin at 3rd try).
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Last edited by ju204; Nov 23, 2012 at 07:20 AM.
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Old Nov 23, 2012, 07:45 AM
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I tested kbdd 130X Neon Orange Tail blades for you!

I ask a lot of questions here, so for once let me try to provide some info Please remember I am really not an expert, just an advanced beginner and v120d02s is my first CP.

Heli: Everything stock except main gear pin mod, and inverted tail (servo is upside down), xtreme skid.

Tail blades: kbdd 130X Neon Orange

Background: I got these tail blades from a us shop (paid them), but since IntegrityHndyWrk tried them and did not like (previous pages of this thread), I just left them in the spare parts box. Yesterday I broke my stock tail blades, so waiting for the parts, I gave a try to the kbdd.

setup: As reported before, the blades do not fit well in the tail holders. I did not want to break holders, so I sanded the base part of the blades. I used 500 sand paper, and tried to sand the same amount of time both sides and both blades. The result is surprisingly balanced (got this trick from the old surf shaping times ...). After 20 minutes, the blades were good to be used.

On the field: 0 wind. Takeoff was normal, I tried to go up and down in idle up, and noticed some tail move. This was also reported and to be expected, since the blades are somewhat smaller than stock. I pushed rudder extend on the RX to the max, and increased gyro (which is around 95% now). Also increased rudder travel adj to 120%, but I think this does not make anything. Then it was really ok, no tail wagging and no vibration at all (had some with my stock blades, guess its got unbalanced).

Visibility: My very good surprise is that neon orange is a lot more visible than stock blades. I could see the heli much further away (30%?) and flew a lot higher than usual (x2), to the point I was afraid of wind blast when I was too high.
On blue (sky) and white (clouds) background, it was a big step up. With autumn trees behind it was not so good (red leafs), but still better than stock black.

Flight: I have been running std mode (statio around 62%) and idle up (100 85 100), doing translations and beginner 3D (simple flips) for 4 lipos. On strong accelerations, the tail moved somewhat, I guess the giro did not have enough power to hold the tail perfectly, but it was very acceptable and did not have a big impact on flight.

My conclusion is that these blades are better than stock, because of visibility. Smaller size is not a big problem for my level. I'll keep these blades on the heli and give an update in windy conditions.

If anyone knows visible blades (preferred color would be orange or flashy yellow), that are a little bigger than stock one, I would be happy to give them a try.

Edit: Today I also tested the kbdd main blades. Tail was not holding. I really don't like them together with kbdd tail blades.
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