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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:41 PM
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Joined Sep 2010
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The 8T should work just fine, I'm tempted to try one.

Yes I soldered the motor wire directly to the ESC, I can't comment on any difference in doing this because I soldered it out of the box.

That motor require more power to start up, so I learned not to give too much initial throttle with it to avoid a 180deg spin on the ground, there is no problem inside, but for outdoor it's not ideal if there is some grass or small rock around the tail.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:52 PM
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United States, AZ, Phoenix
Joined Jul 2011
570 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin_ View Post
The 8T should work just fine, I'm tempted to try one.

Yes I soldered the motor wire directly to the ESC, I can't comment on any difference in doing this because I soldered it out of the box.

That motor require more power to start up, so I learned not to give too much initial throttle with it to avoid a 180deg spin on the ground, there is no problem inside, but for outdoor it's not ideal if there is some grass or small rock around the tail.
I'm going to wait to solder the motor till I decide which one I'm going to use. I also talked to Dylan (?) @ astroiddesign.com who says he can install the xp12a esc to fly governed. I really like the v120, but would like to be able bang the collective a little bit.
All of my batteries are questionable right now so I'm waitng to receive some fresh packs & see how it does. Has anyone used the Oversky 650 mah on their v120?
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:03 PM
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NYC
Joined Aug 2010
2,077 Posts
Parallel charging .

I have Cellpro4 Gold battery charger that I used for 2s and 3s. Any parallel charge cables for V120d02s batteries (JST) that I can use that can connect to my charger or balancer board?
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 02:31 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
1,744 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rafa's CB100 View Post
Bind the model in random ID. Go to the fixed ID menu, turn fixed ID on. A keyboard should pop up. Hit setup in the lower right corner of the keyboard. It asks if you are sure, say yes. From there, it takes 10-15 seconds for the fixed I'd to do its thing.

Rafa
Thanks. Worked perfectly. It was the one process I did not try.
Sure makes binding faster and safer. I mistakenly bound my 120 to the v400d02 model and fortunately they are similar and the heli only flew badly, but was managable. If it had been my 600, it would have been disasterous.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:14 PM
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Spain, Madrid, M
Joined May 2012
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Originally Posted by ej189 View Post
Thanks for your complement.
The form blades are really light that may improve 3D performance greatly, but they are not durable at all and also get huge air resistance too and naturally unbalanced in weight and pitch angle that needed adjustment on each blade.
Hi ej189, is there any procedure to make the foam blades fly? My heli starts shaking the nose up and down. I see them balanced in weight, and don't know how to adjust that pitch on these foam blades, because when I replace them for the stock ones it stops moving the head up and down, without further adjustments. It improves if I loose the screws that hold the blades, but it does no disappear. Don't know how to make them fly.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:19 PM
Fixed and rotary wing flyer
United States, CA, Newark
Joined Sep 2011
161 Posts
back in the air again with wobble gone!

I got my replacement servo's in the mail today from Terence (Walkera Jade). I bought the 3-pack from the 4G6 section for $34. It came out cheaper than if I bought 3 individual ones from the V120D02S section, yet they're the same identical WK-02-1 servo. I decided to try and replace just the one servo which moved faster than the other two, and immediately I could tell all three servos now moved in unison up and down, and the swash stayed level while moving up and down. I took the heli up for a spin and the wobbling is gone! It's flying perfectly again. YAY!!! Thanks IntegrityHndywrk for pointing me in the right direction.

Unless I see any weird behavior from just replacing one servo, I'm going to keep the other 2 new ones as spares for now and will just replace them as needed (and will keep the bad servo for its gears, etc if needed)

Oh, and Terence was really nice to include a beautiful jadeit crucifix gift in this order. The iphone pic doesn't do it any justice.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:34 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Thanks, I was hoping i could press a new one in there with little effort and just start using 2mm pinions with it instead of 1.5mm drill hole. I think this should work out. Thanks!

I'm not sure why they decided to use a 2mm shaft and spline it down to 1.5mm. But i'm fairly sure i don't have the tools to do this, even though i have most of my grandfathers machinist's tools.
The shaft can be easily resized by running the motor at med speed on a blank frame or piece of metal. Then use a small file to slowly cut the end of the shaft down or since you'll be replacing it chuck it up in a drill and slowly file it down to the right size. I did this on both of my HP05 1.5mm shafts to 1.0mm and it worked well. Just go slow so you don't take the temper out of the shaft or coke the bearings. Mine took about 10 minutes each to do. Probably best if you do it before installing the shaft as you'll have plenty of shaft material.

YMMV, Don
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:37 PM
Fixed and rotary wing flyer
United States, CA, Newark
Joined Sep 2011
161 Posts
Milk jug canopy update

I decided to give the milk jug canopy some color. I sanded it with 600 grit, painted it primer white, then fluorescent yellow to match my blades. Then I cut a few thin strips of blue painters tape for stripes, and made a basic windshield with some left over cf sticker sheet. Next, I sprayed clear coat over the whole canopy for gloss and so the stickers and stripes wouldn't lift. Finally, I put a dab of gluegun glue where the canopy rod goes through the canopy and poked a small hole. The friction is just right and holds it in place perfectly. The total cost was 0 since I had all the material already.

For just playing around, it sure beats a paper canopy and is quite visible and tough. And with the rod going through gluegun glue, the canopy stays put. I'll be making more for spares soon. I'll keep the beautiful D02S V2 green canopy for display.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 05:47 PM
IHW Heli Division
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
6,476 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by martin_ View Post
The 8T should work just fine, I'm tempted to try one.

Yes I soldered the motor wire directly to the ESC, I can't comment on any difference in doing this because I soldered it out of the box.

That motor require more power to start up, so I learned not to give too much initial throttle with it to avoid a 180deg spin on the ground, there is no problem inside, but for outdoor it's not ideal if there is some grass or small rock around the tail.
I think you guys are all crazy. When blade rpm max limits are not an issue, i would always rather have higher head speeds. Maybe it's because i'm not flying extreme enough 3D yet to need the extra torque. Plus it's always crazy windy here off the east coast of Florida, right on the beach too. But on something like these v120s i have to overclock the hell out of them. Then listen as people talk about how amazing it is that the heli flies in 20+ mph winds . Hell even my v450 is running 3200 rpm when the blade manufacturer (Align) suggests a MAX rpm of 2800. Maybe i'm crazy but i love me some extra authority in the collective controls. Prolonged 3d is not quite my thing yet, so maybe i just don't understand why everyone is after this extra unnecessary torque. When most of us are sport fliers to light 3D, but are calling the extra head speed unnecessary.

Quote:
Originally Posted by fabric8 View Post
I got my replacement servo's in the mail today from Terence (Walkera Jade). I bought the 3-pack from the 4G6 section for $34. It came out cheaper than if I bought 3 individual ones from the V120D02S section, yet they're the same identical WK-02-1 servo. I decided to try and replace just the one servo which moved faster than the other two, and immediately I could tell all three servos now moved in unison up and down, and the swash stayed level while moving up and down. I took the heli up for a spin and the wobbling is gone! It's flying perfectly again. YAY!!! Thanks IntegrityHndywrk for pointing me in the right direction.

Unless I see any weird behavior from just replacing one servo, I'm going to keep the other 2 new ones as spares for now and will just replace them as needed (and will keep the bad servo for its gears, etc if needed)

Oh, and Terence was really nice to include a beautiful jadeit crucifix gift in this order. The iphone pic doesn't do it any justice.
Your a bastard, and i'll tell you why! I have about 10 different ones of those things. I've spent hundreds of dollars with him! Not just 1 or 2 either..... The best looking one I've received was a turtle or something. Don't get me wrong, they are all cool as hell. But i only had one that was like a talisman that i would have hung somewhere but my nephew wanted it real bad, so i gave it to him. I gave all the rest to my mother, she seemed to love them. Or else i would take a picture. I've built up quite the collection. But i don't have that one. I would probably even wear that one.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 06:27 PM
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United States, AZ, Phoenix
Joined Jul 2011
570 Posts
The issue is not so much the hs but maintaining a constant hs. My collective management could be much better, but my current v120 is unable to pull multiple flips because hs drops & the tail blows out.

My 450 is governed @ 3250 rpm & the head doesn't bog. 450 mx motor w/15t pinion & castle 50.

My 500 EFL Pro is governed @ 2950 & the head doesn't bog. 500 mx motor & 12t helical pinion w/castle 75. I wish there was a 13t pinion to create more headroom for the governor.

Just my $.02

I'm hoping the 8t pinion will resolve the heating issue. Most esc run best around 95% I should have the pinions soon & I'll find out. I'm going to run some packs through the 120 right now.



Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I think you guys are all crazy. When blade rpm max limits are not an issue, i would always rather have higher head speeds. Maybe it's because i'm not flying extreme enough 3D yet to need the extra torque. Plus it's always crazy windy here off the east coast of Florida, right on the beach too. But on something like these v120s i have to overclock the hell out of them. Then listen as people talk about how amazing it is that the heli flies in 20+ mph winds . Hell even my v450 is running 3200 rpm when the blade manufacturer (Align) suggests a MAX rpm of 2800. Maybe i'm crazy but i love me some extra authority in the collective controls. Prolonged 3d is not quite my thing yet, so maybe i just don't understand why everyone is after this extra unnecessary torque. When most of us are sport fliers to light 3D, but are calling the extra head speed unnecessary.




Your a bastard, and i'll tell you why! I have about 10 different ones of those things. I've spent hundreds of dollars with him! Not just 1 or 2 either..... The best looking one I've received was a turtle or something. Don't get me wrong, they are all cool as hell. But i only had one that was like a talisman that i would have hung somewhere but my nephew wanted it real bad, so i gave it to him. I gave all the rest to my mother, she seemed to love them. Or else i would take a picture. I've built up quite the collection. But i don't have that one. I would probably even wear that one.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 08:31 PM
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Joined Sep 2010
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That is the same reason I want to try the 8T, for less bogging, specially after 2 minutes of flight, if that motor had enough power, i would run the 10T on it.

Don't worry, I like high head speed, I run 2550rpm governed on a 560mm bladed 600, and 2450gov rpm on another one with 640mm blades, let me tell you that it's crazy head speed, I have a 450pro on 6s also, but only 3300 gov rpm.

On to the V120, is there a way to avoid the tail to always blow out in backward flight? It looks like there gyro is not up to the task, or a is better/faster servo can be used?

Flying sideway very fast and the tail hold well, so that tell me that there is no lack of thrust.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:07 PM
IHW Heli Division
IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
6,476 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by dgibbons View Post
The issue is not so much the hs but maintaining a constant hs. My collective management could be much better, but my current v120 is unable to pull multiple flips because hs drops & the tail blows out.

My 450 is governed @ 3250 rpm & the head doesn't bog. 450 mx motor w/15t pinion & castle 50.

My 500 EFL Pro is governed @ 2950 & the head doesn't bog. 500 mx motor & 12t helical pinion w/castle 75. I wish there was a 13t pinion to create more headroom for the governor.

Just my $.02

I'm hoping the 8t pinion will resolve the heating issue. Most esc run best around 95% I should have the pinions soon & I'll find out. I'm going to run some packs through the 120 right now.

Quote:
Originally Posted by martin_ View Post
That is the same reason I want to try the 8T, for less bogging, specially after 2 minutes of flight, if that motor had enough power, i would run the 10T on it.

Don't worry, I like high head speed, I run 2550rpm governed on a 560mm bladed 600, and 2450gov rpm on another one with 640mm blades, let me tell you that it's crazy head speed, I have a 450pro on 6s also, but only 3300 gov rpm.

On to the V120, is there a way to avoid the tail to always blow out in backward flight? It looks like there gyro is not up to the task, or a is better/faster servo can be used?

Flying sideway very fast and the tail hold well, so that tell me that there is no lack of thrust.

I also am using governor on my 450 and it's clocking in (mathematically and audio tached) around 3200 rpm. This kind of concerns me becasue the 325mm CF blades usually are rated for 2800 rpm MAX. So i'm a little concerned i may throw a blade. In reality, right now i'm using cheap fiberglass blades. Which concern me even more! But these blades actually seem to break easier in a crash and are CHEAP so thats what I'm using for now. Half the time my 450 crashes are under $10, which is nice. But i don't know the max RPM rating for these FG blades either. Though, I had a feathering shaft come loose once and i dodged that blade pretty well.. they don't move that fast after they come off, they kind of flail around, as long as your not standing right next to the thing. It was pretty cool my heli just fell and landed right on the skids upright while the blades went flying! Best crash ever!

Anyway about the motors again. It's sounding like the hp08 just does not have the torque and KV output the 215 has. Because i seem to be able to do 3 or so flips in a row no problem. Pitch pump 3-5 times with no bog until the end of the pack. Have either of you compared the two? Also, just a side note. Even the same KV rated motors produced by the same MFG could have different actual outputs. For instance i have 2 TA 215 motors right now. The one with the broken motor shaft was much more powerful on the same heli, using the same pinion, than the 215 that is currently installed on it now. The one which i received from Travis MCH. Although that motor's locking bushing for the bell had come loose and it was moving around while the heli flew for a while before Travis ditched it in his parts box before eventually mailing it to me. So running with the bell loose may have damaged it's performance ability maybe, but it's not very much of a difference. It just seems to have a lower head speed than the old one, using the same throttle settings.

Again, i realize flight style has a large part to play. Perhaps i just need to start flying more aggressive.


Just to demonstrate the 215 pumps so you might be able to compare. Here is a video from the end of July. It was with my original 215 motor before the shaft broke. In the video i'm using the very heavy and wider, as well as longer 140mm black CF blades. I was having issues holding the tail using these main rotor blades in my pitch pumps. You will see the tail kick right away because i used too much collective on the first set of pumps. With the stock blades, i would have been able to go much harder. Using the stock blades was much better and the tail hold was far superior! Even though the heli was incredibly stable and able to do loops with ease because of the extra rotor weight and size. You can literally hear how hard the motor was working to fly these blades in the wind. I'm thinking with the 130x blades it might even perform better.

V120d02S - 3D with Turbo Ace 215 motor +Crash (5 min 16 sec)


Just for the fun of it, since we were talking about it. Because i only recently turned on the Gov mode on my v450 the other day. Here is my last flight video of me 3D testing the gov mode and (finally) letting the v450 loose a little bit before tropical storm Issac (or whatever) started pouring rain every day. It ended up being one of my best flights with the v450 despite the tropical storm winds blowing through. I suppose i don't have to worry too much about the 3200 rpm HS if you guys are running them like this too.

V450D01 - 3D in the wind w/ Gov mode - 08-26-12 (5 min 24 sec)
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:34 PM
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Taiwan
Joined Oct 2007
115 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by alfmateos View Post
Hi ej189, is there any procedure to make the foam blades fly? My heli starts shaking the nose up and down. I see them balanced in weight, and don't know how to adjust that pitch on these foam blades, because when I replace them for the stock ones it stops moving the head up and down, without further adjustments. It improves if I loose the screws that hold the blades, but it does no disappear. Don't know how to make them fly.
Dig my photos form 4G3 age, the form blades never well positioned by the two black clips. Mounting to a 2mm rod and you will see how bad they are.
Strip off the black clips and glue it again with form glue they again on the rod, then you can calibrate the angles.

Careful balance by tray and error, little by little, inner or outer till you don't feel any significant vibration within pitch up to down.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 12:18 AM
Team WarpSquad
Japan, Tokyo
Joined Jun 2011
2,710 Posts
Damn - I just wrote part of an essay on why high geared heads might not be a great idea but then a wrong button press and my browser lost it - maybe it doesn't agree??


Basically, a high gearing and high head speed can give more headspeed and more stability in a steady hover; through the momentum of the rotating mass, can also give a stronger initial reaction to collective or cyclic inputs but, if the torque load is greater than the motor can supply, ESC current will spike and the motor will bog.

Keeping the headspeed lower by allowing the motor to turn faster on a lower gear ratio means the motor rotates closer to peak efficiency and the headspeed variation should be less when adding collective or cyclic. Overall, keeping a constant headspeed gives a more constant response to your stick inputs, it might not be as snappy but for smooth controlled and predictable flight I would think it's preferable.

Obviously, you're perfectly within your right to set up your heli as you wish but increasing headspeed probably stresses not just the blade roots but other components more than possibly they were designed to handle; servos, links, swashplates, anti-rotation guides etc could all be at risk - more so on a larger bird.
The current through the BEC could also be increased due to the servos having to overcome all the extra gyroscopic effect from the faster turning blades.

I don't have a background in Helicopter design so I might be talking b*ll*cks but at least with a governor in play and pinion choices available on the 450 size and above you can easily play around, plus with an ICE 50, even get some comparisons of current draw during similar manoeuvres.

IHWK - there's your next V450 homework! (Now that you fixed that e-clip properly )
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 03:35 AM
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Taiwan
Joined Oct 2007
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Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
i am bit surprised that you have less than 100 posts here. It seemed as if you have been here for ever. Certainly, you are very influential. Nobody here would have known about the telemetry issue if you have not pointed it out.

I am having similar behavior to Orbitalgolem and I am sure it has got nothing to do with telemetry. What is perplexing is that two different receivers were involved. I am sure it has got nothing to do with my transmitter as it flies OK with my MIni CP.

There is nothing unusual on the ground but the brownouts occur once I am in the air. I cannot find anything wrong with the servos.
Been here from the day I bought my first heli Walkera 52# and did learn much from here. But reading English always make my eyes tired not mentioned posting such a detail things.
Now I always follow my thought to improve my helis and got some experience. I rather gave you some hints but not a detailed solution for the sake of my poor English. That's why I post some video here to show how I did for returning back what I had been got form here.

Had rebuild my DEVO7 for a test, and yes it doesn't has telemetry function so won't cause anything bad.
My friend had once power cut off in the air and proved to be ESC failure. Another one found the power connector to tight to plug all in and some times fail to control, he cut off the extra frame of JST connector then never happen again.
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