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Old Aug 27, 2012, 06:18 PM
IHW Heli Division
IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by alfmateos View Post
But then, if I understand it correctly, the main cause to break servos is the canopy itself breaking them in a crash? If that flexible pin replacing the CF canopy pin is used, may be is that the canopy breaks itself less in a crash and then keeps protecting the servo? Also, that is to protect the servo "as a box", but I understand that it does not protect it against gear stripping, am I right?

I'd like to understand it, because it could be a very useful and simple solution. By the way, your heli looks really pretty with those colors
Hmmm, for me, it's more like using a narrower paper clip than the stock CF rod loosens the servo mounting bracket. The paper clip also bends easy in a crash, sooooo, the first thing to happen is the servo pops loose out of the bracket saving it from all gear damage and impact even. Everything breaks loose, instead of just breaking. To farther save your servos from stripping. GET INTO the habit of moving the collective stick to the middle as well as the normal "make sure you hit throttle hold!" suggestion. if you move the collective stick during a crash, or while the heli is on the ground. Especially to the far bottom, as is the habit for many new fliers coming from FP and coaxial. This is where the stripped gears come from. The middle is not perfectly safe, just the safest spot because the blades them self will bind up on each other and strip the servo gears regardless of the ground or anything else, in a crash.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 07:37 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alfmateos View Post
But then, if I understand it correctly, the main cause to break servos is the canopy itself breaking them in a crash? If that flexible pin replacing the CF canopy pin is used, may be is that the canopy breaks itself less in a crash and then keeps protecting the servo? Also, that is to protect the servo "as a box", but I understand that it does not protect it against gear stripping, am I right?

I'd like to understand it, because it could be a very useful and simple solution. By the way, your heli looks really pretty with those colors
The stock thin CF canopy pin does not really hold the canopy good. And seemed that it could easily slide during a crash, causing the canopy hit or crash with all linkages inside the canopy.

I've had only 2 strong impact crashes on a paved/concrete runway, so am not sure if this actually helps a lot or not. So far all my servos had survived. Unknowingly, the tail boom slid off the body slightly after I toggled to stunt mode, then pushed out the tail gear. I tried to save the heli, but that was a wrong move. So it hit the runway full RPM while I watch it tumbling . before I could hit the TH. Flew again, after a few, but did not realized that the tail rocker's ball was compromised, at 20 feet, I lost the heli again, hit the runway, and I felt the pain this time . Seemed like that my canopy is protecting my linkages or I'm just lucky or both. No major repair except I lost the tail pushrod and lost the ball link, probably still attached with the pushrod. FYI, my nylon pin is longer than the stock, making the canopy even open wider. The heli is still very clean even after the crash as you saw on the picture.
The colored extra detail are remnant vinyls like the ones I use on my planes. They are with self adhesive backing.
Spyro.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:09 PM
IHW Heli Division
IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
The stock thin CF canopy pin does not really hold the canopy good. And seemed that it could easily slide during a crash, causing the canopy hit or crash with all linkages inside the canopy.

I've had only 2 strong impact crashes on a paved/concrete runway, so am not sure if this actually helps a lot or not. So far all my servos had survived. Unknowingly, the tail boom slid off the body slightly after I toggled to stunt mode, then pushed out the tail gear. I tried to save the heli, but that was a wrong move. So it hit the runway full RPM while I watch it tumbling . before I could hit the TH. Flew again, after a few, but did not realized that the tail rocker's ball was compromised, at 20 feet, I lost the heli again, hit the runway, and I felt the pain this time . Seemed like that my canopy is protecting my linkages or I'm just lucky or both. No major repair except I lost the tail pushrod and lost the ball link, probably still attached with the pushrod. FYI, my nylon pin is longer than the stock, making the canopy even open wider. The heli is still very clean even after the crash as you saw on the picture.
The colored extra detail are remnant vinyls like the ones I use on my planes. They are with self adhesive backing.
Spyro.

I've always noticed that the grommets just slide off the pins from vibration. So i use needle nose pliers on my paper clip to bend a little hook on the ends so they can't slide off easily. Works out pretty well..

About those vinyls, seems like they are just big strips of colored electrical tape. Thats what electrical tape is. So if you get some good quality colored electrical tape i'm sure that would be big and wide enough for this v120 size application. Just for those interested in the easy fix for the vinyl siding.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by cstoutr View Post
Hey guys, I have been testing and confirmed the KBDD main blades for the 130x work well on the 120d02s. They do make the cyclic response faster and more agile. You can pick up a set at HeliRcStore.com or RcHeliworks.com.
I also put a set on mine, and the result is the same as you, the roll/flip rate is much faster, almost twice the rate.

The downside is they have made my 120 less stable, I have to decrease the cyclic gain a lot to get rid of AIL. shake, but overall i like it.

I've also put the 130X KBDD tail blade, they are smaller but they allow me to up the tail gain much more, the tail seems to be more locked now.

This is the New V2, running with HP08 16500kv, a whole different heli now.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by martin_ View Post
I also put a set on mine, and the result is the same as you, the roll/flip rate is much faster, almost twice the rate.

The downside is they have made my 120 less stable, I have to decrease the cyclic gain a lot to get rid of AIL. shake, but overall i like it.

I've also put the 130X KBDD tail blade, they are smaller but they allow me to up the tail gain much more, the tail seems to be more locked now.

This is the New V2, running with HP08 16500kv, a whole different heli now.

Typically longer blades increase stability over all. You may have just had your cyclic gains too high in the first place? Also if your having problems holding your tail, it might be time to get a new tail servo. You really shouldn't need to be above 70-80% gyrohold to hold the tail tight, as long as you have your mechanics set up properly. Though this heli does have some tail gyro issues. It's not all that sensitive.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 08:30 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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Originally Posted by martin_ View Post

I've also put the 130X KBDD tail blade, they are smaller but they allow me to up the tail gain much more, the tail seems to be more locked now.
.
Did you adjust it on the Rx?
I might pick up a set as well. I actually would prefer a bit more of tail blade ground clearance.
Thanks,
- Spyro
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Typically longer blades increase stability over all. You may have just had your cyclic gains too high in the first place? Also if your having problems holding your tail, it might be time to get a new tail servo. You really shouldn't need to be above 70-80% gyrohold to hold the tail tight, as long as you have your mechanics set up properly. Though this heli does have some tail gyro issues. It's not all that sensitive.
They'r about 2 to 3mm longer at most, but narrower by almost 1mm, the main thing is that they are much lighter and made of softer material, hence the faster roll/flip.

I should have said the heli don't track as well as with these blades than the stock one, instead of stability.

Gain was fine before.

I fly 600 & 700 size Flybarless heli since a long time now and have experimented a lot of blades, FBL unit, etc.. etc.. , so no problem with the 120, its RX is so basic and rudimentary compared to what I'm used to play with.

.................................................

Spyro37, as far as I know there is no tail gain on the RX, at least mine is the V2 version and the tail gain is set in the TX.

Due to the higher head speed with the HP08 motor, I had the gain set at 65% to 70% to avoid tail wag in FFF, but now I'm set at 80%.

I don't know however with the stock motor if there will be enough tail authority with those smaller blade, you might experiment.

They are also not direct fit, you have to sand down the root to fit in the tail grip.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 12:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin_ View Post
They'r about 2 to 3mm longer at most, but narrower by almost 1mm, the main thing is that they are much lighter and made of softer material, hence the faster roll/flip.

I should have said the heli don't track as well as with these blades than the stock one, instead of stability.

Gain was fine before.

I fly 600 & 700 size Flybarless heli since a long time now and have experimented a lot of blades, FBL unit, etc.. etc.. , so no problem with the 120, its RX is so basic and rudimentary compared to what I'm used to play with.

.................................................

Spyro37, as far as I know there is no tail gain on the RX, at least mine is the V2 version and the tail gain is set in the TX.

Due to the higher head speed with the HP08 motor, I had the gain set at 65% to 70% to avoid tail wag in FFF, but now I'm set at 80%.

I don't know however with the stock motor if there will be enough tail authority with those smaller blade, you might experiment.

They are also not direct fit, you have to sand down the root to fit in the tail grip.
Cool, as always, i was only trying to help. Some times the gyro on this bird can be fickle and having them too high can create wobbles. I'm sure you know all about this stuff if your flying bigger helis.

Yeah, 80% is where i had to go to after getting the Turbo Ace 215 installed. The 215 and the HP08 are probably very closely speced. My D05 with the extreme spin motor has to use 90% on the tail gyro, but that thing has poor tail ratio. Only 2.5ish to 1. So the tail struggles to hold without ultimate head speeds.

Have fun flying!
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 03:01 AM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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=martin_;22568543
Spyro37, as far as I know there is no tail gain on the RX, at least mine is the V2 version and the tail gain is set in the TX.

Due to the higher head speed with the HP08 motor, I had the gain set at 65% to 70% to avoid tail wag in FFF, but now I'm set at 80%.

I don't know however with the stock motor if there will be enough tail authority with those smaller blade, you might experiment.

They are also not direct fit, you have to sand down the root to fit in the tail grip.
I'll be able to have a chance to fly mine tomorrow since I did the 130X blade mod.
I flew it around a few times but just in front of my house. My motor is stock. Stock tail blade. Gyro set @ 71-73%.
I'll start low with the Ail to see how much adjustment I'd have to do. May not be as much as yours with your upgraded motor.
Glad to hear that your heli is now turbo-charged.
- Spyro
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:05 AM
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Joined Jul 2011
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I installed the spin 16300 kv motor with the 10t pinion yesterday afternoon. I could only get about 2.5 to 3 minutes of flight. Both times the heli began to lose hs & slowly descended. The biggest thing I'm seeing is both the esc & battery are much hotter than with the stock motor.

Any ideas? I'm hoping the 8t pinion will improve the heating. The increased hs dramatically improved the responsiveness. I tried a front & back flip which were cleaner, but actually slower. The pitch pumps were a huge difference. I kinda expected this with the 10t pinion, but I wanted to try the new motor. The biggest disappointment was the head bogged quite a bit.

I desoldered the factory leads from the motor & connected the motor & esc with a 3 pin mini deans. I will probably solder directly to the esc but I haven't decided which motor I'm going to use yet.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Cool, as always, i was only trying to help. Some times the gyro on this bird can be fickle and having them too high can create wobbles. I'm sure you know all about this stuff if your flying bigger helis.

Yeah, 80% is where i had to go to after getting the Turbo Ace 215 installed. The 215 and the HP08 are probably very closely speced. My D05 with the extreme spin motor has to use 90% on the tail gyro, but that thing has poor tail ratio. Only 2.5ish to 1. So the tail struggles to hold without ultimate head speeds.

Have fun flying!
No problem, it' appreciated.

I know those walkera 2in1 RX gyro are very very basic PID control loop, it does not take much to get wobble, hopefully we manage to get acceptable result out of it.

I think I read your motor is more powerfull than my HP08, or maybee I confuse with another turbo ace.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 10:59 AM
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Originally Posted by dgibbons View Post
I installed the spin 16300 kv motor with the 10t pinion yesterday afternoon. I could only get about 2.5 to 3 minutes of flight. Both times the heli began to lose hs & slowly descended. The biggest thing I'm seeing is both the esc & battery are much hotter than with the stock motor.

Any ideas? I'm hoping the 8t pinion will improve the heating. The increased hs dramatically improved the responsiveness. I tried a front & back flip which were cleaner, but actually slower. The pitch pumps were a huge difference. I kinda expected this with the 10t pinion, but I wanted to try the new motor. The biggest disappointment was the head bogged quite a bit.

I desoldered the factory leads from the motor & connected the motor & esc with a 3 pin mini deans. I will probably solder directly to the esc but I haven't decided which motor I'm going to use yet.
For my HP08 16500kv I installed an 9T pinion, I find the 10T overkill, I still have significant higher head speed with the 9T than with the stock motor/10T. much better power but still easily boggable and flight time shorter.

I regret to not have tried 2S instead, the cost was almost the same.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:34 AM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
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Has anyone set up Fixed ID on a Devo8s. I have gone through the procedures in the manual, but can't get the heli to bind until I turn off the fixed ID in the RX.
I must be missing something. I have tried every combination I can think of, but it does not appear to be the right one.
And what I have now does not work as fixed ID as I can change model and still bind the original model which should not be correct.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 11:57 AM
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Austin, TX
Joined Dec 2009
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Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
Has anyone set up Fixed ID on a Devo8s. I have gone through the procedures in the manual, but can't get the heli to bind until I turn off the fixed ID in the RX.
I must be missing something. I have tried every combination I can think of, but it does not appear to be the right one.
And what I have now does not work as fixed ID as I can change model and still bind the original model which should not be correct.
Bind the model in random ID. Go to the fixed ID menu, turn fixed ID on. A keyboard should pop up. Hit setup in the lower right corner of the keyboard. It asks if you are sure, say yes. From there, it takes 10-15 seconds for the fixed I'd to do its thing.

Rafa
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 01:42 PM
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United States, AZ, Phoenix
Joined Jul 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by martin_ View Post
For my HP08 16500kv I installed an 9T pinion, I find the 10T overkill, I still have significant higher head speed with the 9T than with the stock motor/10T. much better power but still easily boggable and flight time shorter.

I regret to not have tried 2S instead, the cost was almost the same.
I'm hoping the 8t will not bog. Thanks for the feedback. Did you solder the motor wires directly to the esc? If so, did it make a difference.
I considered the 2s, but I'm not sure the extra weight of the batt would be an improvement. The v120d02s frame & batt cage is a bit frail.
I should have the 8t pinion this week & plan to try the hyperion 550 1s batts.
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