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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:26 AM
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Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
I am going through a rotten patch with the V120D02S at the moment. i am having these brownouts seconds into a flight and two different receivers seem to be involved. I have also burnt a large number of tail servos at the same time.

I don't have a clue what is going on as everything appears to be working normally on the ground. I am going to send these two receivers back to Walkera for a check. However, I am not hopeful that they will be able to find anything out. I am going to order a new receiver and see whether the problems persist or not.
Just a thought. As the design of the v120 is compact, I noticed after a few crashes the servo wires were a little too close to the motor for my comfort. That might cause the wire insulators to melt/strip and cause a short-circuit which would destroy the servo/receiver.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 06:30 AM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
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Originally Posted by naruto View Post
Just a thought. As the design of the v120 is compact, I noticed after a few crashes the servo wires were a little too close to the motor for my comfort. That might cause the wire insulators to melt/strip and cause a short-circuit which would destroy the servo/receiver.
I have had this happened to me before but all the wires are intact this time. I will go through the heli before putting the new receiver in.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 07:38 AM
Heli addicted.
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I'm still looking for the white ones, KBDD also makes a bunch of colors for the 130X tail blades, white being one of them. If anyone finds them let me know. Here is the KBDD 130X tail blades for the colors we should be expecting to find surface for the main blades too. I don't know if these tail blades work on the v120. But i can't see why not. Even the Trex 250 tail blades can be made to fit this.

http://helidirect.com/advanced_searc...s=130x&x=0&y=0


how is the durability of these kbdd blades??blades , similar to stock??better or worse?
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 07:43 AM
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The main blades are longer and stiffer and the tail blades are smaller but still perform well.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 07:47 AM
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Originally Posted by Rollmops67 View Post
Hello !

I'm new on this thread, and havn't the courage to read the more then 400 pages !

I'm actually flying FP helis, but I know I will have to try CP helis soon (I'm addicted !)
I'm looking for a model that's not too big (more crash-resistant), and the fact it has a brushless motor and can bee ordered with a Devo transmitter is a plus for me.
It should also beeing able to handle some wind outdoors.
So I think the V120D02S should be a good entry in the CP world.

I'm also a little confused because Walkera has also the V120D05 and V120D06, and I don't know if one of these would be better then the V120D02S.

Speaking about spare parts, what is necessary, knowing that in the begining, I won't try to fly 3D.
I will have to learn that on a simulator before trying for real, are the Devo transmitters connectable on simulator programs ?

And a last question, where would you recommend to order one and spare parts ?

Again, sorry for these basic questions, but I'm totally new in CP and Walkera.

Roland
Forget V120D05 and V120D06>The 120s is the best 120size you can buy .

V120d02s was my 1st CP heli after 5 months with a cb180z>If you know the basics -hover-forward flight -you will be fine.If you practise daily in 2 months(or less) you will make your 1st flip.If you want this heli very durable you need to install a slipper clutch and to make the servo saver mode.The 1st one will help you not to strip tail gears during crash and the 2s not to strip servo gears.Also keep in mind that with CP helis you must set the correct throttle /pitch curves to flight your flight skills.


This heli is a great teacher.You can learn a lot with minimum(crashing) cost.


As for the spares my favorite seller is this one here http://www.chinesejade.com/walkeraV120D02S.htm

good prices and very fast shipping,

Quote:
Originally Posted by naruto View Post
Just a thought. As the design of the v120 is compact, I noticed after a few crashes the servo wires were a little too close to the motor for my comfort. That might cause the wire insulators to melt/strip and cause a short-circuit which would destroy the servo/receiver.
Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
I have had this happened to me before but all the wires are intact this time. I will go through the heli before putting the new receiver in.
same here, thats why i am running all the wires from the right side since then.

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Old Aug 27, 2012, 10:37 AM
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United States, OR, Vernonia
Joined Dec 2004
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Where did you buy the 032 aluminum stock at?? Mike

QUOTE=IntegrityHndywrk;22556365]The CF is a little too strong still, Graphite was okay but hard to find the right size and hardness. The aluminum .032 stock is the best by far! Had my first crash today and it sheered clean on the D05. Not even a nick in the tiny little old skool teeth. On top of that, the middle section inside the shaft pushed right out easily. I use the little tiny allen wrench that i got with one of my 120 helis to poke the dry CA out of the hole after so the new piece of aluminum stock will slide clean though. Dab with CA and go back flying. Of course this is no walk in the park if you crash all the time. But i always have 4 helis with me at the field so it saves me money on repairs. Sure beats reinforcing each of my D05's gear hubs to withstand the impact on from the paperclip, that hardly ever sheered anyway.



Thats probably the ticket. The plastic part is probably smaller than the metal part's hole. Technically 19 AWG i think should be able to squeeze it. if you could find it. But i'm sure smaller is slightly better than too tight. /shrug

Since i got you, i've been meaning to ask you something don! Do you know where i can get a 2mm motor shaft replacement for my TA 215 motor?[/QUOTE]
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Since i got you, i've been meaning to ask you something don! Do you know where i can get a 2mm motor shaft replacement for my TA 215 motor?
I get my motor shafts from:

http://shop.osorail.com/category.sc?categoryId=30

It is just straight shaft though and not knurled. You also have to cut to length. Usually removing the old shaft bends the bell supports. I had to setup a runout gauge on the bell of the last HP08 motor I replaced the shaft on and tweeked the supports until it ran true.

Good Luck, Don
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 03:10 PM
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Could you please tell me which units the scales on your pictures displays? Is it hundredths of an Ounce or something else?

Thank you!

Notker


Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
Speaking of MAIN BLADES.
I just installed my spare blades from my Blade 130X
I t is longer by 3mm (each one) BUT LIGHTER than the Walkeras.
I flew in front of my garage with limited space, but not at the field, so no 3D flights tested with them.
Everything seems great & smooth with no issues noticed.
Lighter blades should be easier for the motor to spin (@ lower pitch). Not sure if the 3mm difference will have a "noticeable" RPM difference, as I have not flown it in a big open space.
The green blades:http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Def...odID=BLH3716GR
- Spyro
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 03:57 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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130X blade = 6.7 grams
Walkera Blades =8.8 grams

* If you double click the picture, it's actually a large image/ file, and be able to see the "g" unit.
- Spyro

Quote:
Originally Posted by H3liN00B View Post
Could you please tell me which units the scales on your pictures displays? Is it hundredths of an Ounce or something else?

Thank you!

Notker
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:11 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
I am going through a rotten patch with the V120D02S at the moment. i am having these brownouts seconds into a flight and two different receivers seem to be involved. I have also burnt a large number of tail servos at the same time.

I don't have a clue what is going on as everything appears to be working normally on the ground. I am going to send these two receivers back to Walkera for a check. However, I am not hopeful that they will be able to find anything out. I am going to order a new receiver and see whether the problems persist or not.
What version RX? Just curious. Very strange issues indeed.


Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
The V120D02S (3 axis) and the NEW V120D02S (6 axis) are arguably 2 of the easiest CP helis to start with. Forget the D05 and D06 at least for now, maybe forever.
I concur with Thwaitm on this. The D05 is actually a total piece of crap right from the factory from walkera. However after about $500 invested in mine, It flies smoother than the D02S, is much more quiet and is able to perform 3d almost as good as the D02S. But the fact remains that the D05 is a problematic heli that might not even fly "out of the box". The D06 uses a tail motor to spin the tail rotor. I would avoid this on any Helicopter. My opinion is that ANY HELICOPTER using a tail motor is an inefficient design. I know many would debate me on this but In my opinion they perform poorly and have bad flight times. So even the popular Genius and Mini CP in my mind, miss the mark of a "hobbyist" helicopter and still fall in the realm of "toy" helicopter that you will eventually get rid of or just stick in the closet when you get a better heli. Even after motor upgrades, why bother. The v120d02S will last you even as you progress into bigger helicopers where as a heli with a tail motor might not keep up with your performance desires. Again just my opinion.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
There are 2 things that you will need to do to your V120D02S to make it more crash resistant:

1) Slipper clutch mod for the rear rotor
2) Servo saver mod to the servo arms

(plus
3 - replace the main gear pin with some shear pin arrangement
4 - method to keep a hold of flying tail control rod (dental floss method/tape method/under boom method/reduced collective pitch, etc etc)
5 - hot glue and tape to reinforce/repair skids and canopy
6 - ...
-).
The slipper clutch is a MUST if you plan on flying lots and crashing ever! It will save you a ton of money on replacing tail transmission gears. I would stock up on a few sets of gears anyway!

I personally have never used a "servo saver" mod. But replacing the stiff CF Canopy mounting pin with a bendable paperclip has saved my servos almost every time apparently. I'm still on my 3rd set of servos and i own 2 V120 size helicopters. You do the math, i NEVER replace my servos. But i have had to replace my servo gears 5 or so times. I just don't strip them, like EVER. I think the replacment gears are stronger than stock too. Can't verify. So you might want to order some replacement gear sets for the servos at oomodem.com, but i would avoid ordering anything else from them, just my opinion. They are slow and have poor communication on inventory and stocking.

Quote:
Originally Posted by thwaitm View Post
Search the thread for the slipper clutch, livionabob can supply you a kit for a tail clutch if you need - or you can run the V1 non adjustable fuel tube one instead.
Sadly Liviona Bob is no longer making his slipper clutches and he is out of town right now. Bob's clutch was elegant and functional! I feel like he gave up after my review of the new BenMLee slipper clutch which works excellently BTW. But costs 2x as much as Bob's clutch. You might be able to find someone with a spare if you ask around. Otherwise you have to search Ebay for the BenMLee slipper clutch

Again both work excellently, but the BenMLee slipper clutch has some added design improvements for the helicopter and some additional machined parts to replace the stock parts with, which increase the price and not too much more functionality. I really think its "6 of one, half dozen of the other" which one you pick/find/use but the BenMLee cluch is more "over" engineered for what it really is. Even though i enjoy how it tightens up the tail over all, it's not necessary. However it might be the only readily available option any longer.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:18 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by iflyrvs1 View Post
Where did you buy the 032 aluminum stock at?? Mike
The Ace Hardware store in my town carries some aluminum, brass and stainless stock in the back. Otherwise i'm sure you can find it online somewhere. (side note, i always prefer Ace hardware because it's locally owned and not a corporate powerhouse bent on destroying small community businesses, like wally world.) So even if they didn't stock it, the guy at the Ace hardware would have been willing to order it for me. They happened to have a pack or 2 left that was hiding in the wrong slot though. If you really have trouble finding it i can probably pick up their last pack and mail it to you for about $5 give or take the shipping difference.


Quote:
Originally Posted by dbennettya View Post
I get my motor shafts from:

http://shop.osorail.com/category.sc?categoryId=30

It is just straight shaft though and not knurled. You also have to cut to length. Usually removing the old shaft bends the bell supports. I had to setup a runout gauge on the bell of the last HP08 motor I replaced the shaft on and tweeked the supports until it ran true.

Good Luck, Don


Thanks, I was hoping i could press a new one in there with little effort and just start using 2mm pinions with it instead of 1.5mm drill hole. I think this should work out. Thanks!

I'm not sure why they decided to use a 2mm shaft and spline it down to 1.5mm. But i'm fairly sure i don't have the tools to do this, even though i have most of my grandfathers machinist's tools.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:46 PM
Brent 黑雁
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Canada, AB, Ponoka
Joined Jan 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
Thanks for the heads-up.
True, everyone had mentioned about the feathering shaft and the belt needs to be replaced with align. But 'ill try to fly first before doing that. If I find it not a fun heli even just for mild sports flying, I'll sell it all built for $60 . Rx ready. So no loss on my side, since I only paid under $42 including S&H. Electronics are old spares from my box.
- Spyro
I you want for sport flying, Get these weights fo the flybar.
DUB137 Dura Collars - 1/16 Dubro.
The flybar paddle is only 2 grams and makes the heli very twitchy. If you add 2 of these on each side at 1 gram each, you can tune to your liking.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 04:46 PM
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Joined Nov 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zadaw View Post
I am going through a rotten patch with the V120D02S at the moment. i am having these brownouts seconds into a flight and two different receivers seem to be involved. I have also burnt a large number of tail servos at the same time.

I don't have a clue what is going on as everything appears to be working normally on the ground. I am going to send these two receivers back to Walkera for a check. However, I am not hopeful that they will be able to find anything out. I am going to order a new receiver and see whether the problems persist or not.
2 thoughts:

1. Have you tried another ESC? If the built in BEC is dying you might be undervolting the RX and servos which can cause them to run hot or brown out. The tail servo does the most work so it's logical that it'd be the one to die first. Not a definitive test but try binding the heli and then just banging the sticks around on the ground (TH on) for a couple of minutes. You might be able to induce a brown out.

2. Check the A gear bearing under load. Try pulling up on the head a bit and then turn the main gear. If the A gear bearing is worn out it might turn freely unloaded but drag alot more when loaded which could cause the brownouts. Less likely but maybe worth checking since it's easy.
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 05:15 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I personally have never used a "servo saver" mod. But replacing the stiff CF Canopy mounting pin with a bendable paperclip has saved my servos almost every time apparently.
YES it's a great idea and agree.
I use a very tiny diameter of plastic nylon tubing (used for pushrod stiffiner).
As seen in this image.
I replaced the CF pin with a very short paper clip (center), the rest of the pin length is the flexible tubing.
At the inner side of the canopy, noticed is a small red silicon tubing from a silicon wire (insulation) that serves as a canopy stopper.
-------------------------------------

Quote:
Originally Posted by BThirsk View Post
I you want for sport flying, Get these weights fo the flybar.
DUB137 Dura Collars - 1/16 Dubro.
The flybar is only 2 grams and makes the heli very twitchy. If you add 2 of these on each side at 1 gram each, you can tune to your liking.
OK, thanks. I saved this post in my file section.

- Spyro
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Old Aug 27, 2012, 06:07 PM
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Spain, Madrid, M
Joined May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
YES it's a great idea and agree.
I use a very tiny diameter of plastic nylon tubing (used for pushrod stiffiner).
As seen in this image.
I replaced the CF pin with a very short paper clip (center), the rest of the pin length is the flexible tubing.
At the inner side of the canopy, noticed is a small red silicon tubing from a silicon wire (insulation) that serves as a canopy stopper.
-------------------------------------
But then, if I understand it correctly, the main cause to break servos is the canopy itself breaking them in a crash? If that flexible pin replacing the CF canopy pin is used, may be is that the canopy breaks itself less in a crash and then keeps protecting the servo? Also, that is to protect the servo "as a box", but I understand that it does not protect it against gear stripping, am I right?

I'd like to understand it, because it could be a very useful and simple solution. By the way, your heli looks really pretty with those colors
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