Originally Posted by alfmateos

May be you could try with a carbon rod instead, may be the little one which comes with every canopy would do it. That way the pin would be either in perfect shape or totally broken, but at the same time may be it could reduce main gear damage in case of crash. I have not tried it, it's just an idea.

I've tried CF rod and it doesn't shear easily enough. Aluminum works best but copper would probably be ok also.

YMMV, Don

Originally Posted by Crash Survivor

Has anyone ran across this? On my 2801pro I moved some models around V120D02S model 1, GCP BL model 2 and etc. & did a reset on a model # I wanted to delete. Got ready to fly my V120D02S & TX was in mode 1, had to change TX back to mode 2.

Yes it has happened to me several times. Once after changing batteries in the TX and once I can't remember why. It is pretty scary as things are really messed up.

Originally Posted by alfmateos

May be you could try with a carbon rod instead, may be the little one which comes with every canopy would do it. That way the pin would be either in perfect shape or totally broken, but at the same time may be it could reduce main gear damage in case of crash. I have not tried it, it's just an idea.

The CF is a little too strong still, Graphite was okay but hard to find the right size and hardness. The aluminum .032 stock is the best by far! Had my first crash today and it sheered clean on the D05. Not even a nick in the tiny little old skool teeth. On top of that, the middle section inside the shaft pushed right out easily. I use the little tiny allen wrench that i got with one of my 120 helis to poke the dry CA out of the hole after so the new piece of aluminum stock will slide clean though. Dab with CA and go back flying. Of course this is no walk in the park if you crash all the time. But i always have 4 helis with me at the field so it saves me money on repairs. Sure beats reinforcing each of my D05's gear hubs to withstand the impact on from the paperclip, that hardly ever sheered anyway.

Originally Posted by dbennettya

I use a small tappered carbide reamer to enlarge the hole slightly in the main shaft so the 18 AWG aluminum wire will fit in. I tried drill bits but they break easily

Good Luck, Don

Thats probably the ticket. The plastic part is probably smaller than the metal part's hole. Technically 19 AWG i think should be able to squeeze it. if you could find it. But i'm sure smaller is slightly better than too tight. /shrug

Since i got you, i've been meaning to ask you something don! Do you know where i can get a 2mm motor shaft replacement for my TA 215 motor?

Originally Posted by Spyro37

I have all the spare parts needed for this one so I just ordered it, just to have a small belt-driven heli, it will be my first CP heli with flybar, hopefuly it flies good. Reviews were not bad at all. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arehouse_.html
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...631872&page=53

You'll get enlightened with that one.
You'll need align feathering shaft because the HK is like butter. Order a complete set of align ball links because the HK ones are loose and not long enough to set the head up properly. The main gear assembly often won't fit properly and the auto rotate won't work. You either replace with align or sand the spacer washer to make it fit.
When you get it all done, you are in for a ride with probably the hardest to handle heli of all. Read the posts on the HK250 thread and you will get lots of pointers. You will also need a 3.5mm ball sizer.

I got a spin 16300kv & oversky hp08s 16500 kv motor this weekend. I have parts that should be here tomorrow so I can test fly the spin motor with the 10t stock pinion. I have a couple 8t pinions on the way.

I may also try the 130x main & tail blades.

I'll post some video once I have a chance to run some packs through both motors.

Thanks for the heads-up.
True, everyone had mentioned about the feathering shaft and the belt needs to be replaced with align. But 'ill try to fly first before doing that. If I find it not a fun heli even just for mild sports flying, I'll sell it all built for $60 . Rx ready. So no loss on my side, since I only paid under $42 including S&H. Electronics are old spares from my box.
- Spyro

Originally Posted by BThirsk

You'll get enlightened with that one.
You'll need align feathering shaft because the HK is like butter. Order a complete set of align ball links because the HK ones are loose and not long enough to set the head up properly. The main gear assembly often won't fit properly and the auto rotate won't work. You either replace with align or sand the spacer washer to make it fit.
When you get it all done, you are in for a ride with probably the hardest to handle heli of all. Read the posts on the HK250 thread and you will get lots of pointers. You will also need a 3.5mm ball sizer.

Hey guys, I have been testing and confirmed the KBDD main blades for the 130x work well on the 120d02s. They do make the cyclic response faster and more agile. You can pick up a set at HeliRcStore.com or RcHeliworks.com.

Originally Posted by cstoutr

Hey guys, I have been testing and confirmed the KBDD main blades for the 130x work well on the 120d02s. They do make the cyclic response faster and more agile. You can pick up a set at HeliRcStore.com or RcHeliworks.com.

I'm still looking for the white ones, KBDD also makes a bunch of colors for the 130X tail blades, white being one of them. If anyone finds them let me know. Here is the KBDD 130X tail blades for the colors we should be expecting to find surface for the main blades too. I don't know if these tail blades work on the v120. But i can't see why not. Even the Trex 250 tail blades can be made to fit this.

http://helidirect.com/advanced_searc...s=130x&x=0&y=0

STRANGE BUG on THROTTLE HOLD! OR is it some Tx setting?
* NEW 120D02S & DEVO 8S

1. Took-off the ground from NORMAL FLIGHT MODE.
2. Then, toggled to STUNT MODE.
3. Landed on the ground, still on STUNT mode (@ middle throttle stick position).
4. Flipped the THROTTLE HOLD. Motor stopped spinning.
5. Flipped the switch to NORMAL flight mode, then, back down throttle to ZERO.
6. Released throttle HOLD (back to idle UP).
7. The motor started spinning though I am on number "5"

* The only way to avoid a damage is GO BACK TO THROTTLE HOLD IMMEDIATELY, (otherwise this thing would have gone crazy by itself), then, disconnect the battery.

I repeated the procedure holding the heli, & it does exact the same thing. Meaning, the only way to fly back again is disconnect the lipo and start from scratch. Otherwise, releasing the throttle hold will spool up the motor regardless of throttle position even @ normal mode.

I wonder if the new Rx FW release will fix it. But I'd still have to get the plugs to do the update.
For now, I just have to remember that If I click the throttle hold, "that's it", can't fly again unless I disconnect & reconnect the lipo.
Unless, someone knows the answer...
- Spyro

Originally Posted by Spyro37

STRANGE BUG on THROTTLE HOLD! OR is it some Tx setting?
* NEW 120D02S & DEVO 8S

1. Took-off the ground from NORMAL FLIGHT MODE.
2. Then, toggled to STUNT MODE.
3. Landed on the ground, still on STUNT mode (@ middle throttle stick position).
4. Flipped the THROTTLE HOLD. Motor stopped spinning.
5. Flipped the switch to NORMAL flight mode, then, back down throttle to ZERO.
6. Released throttle HOLD (back to idle UP).
7. The motor started spinning though I am on number "5"

* The only way to avoid a damage is GO BACK TO THROTTLE HOLD IMMEDIATELY, (otherwise this thing would have gone crazy by itself), then, disconnect the battery.

I repeated the procedure holding the heli, & it does exact the same thing. Meaning, the only way to fly back again is disconnect the lipo and start from scratch. Otherwise, releasing the throttle hold will spool up the motor regardless of throttle position even @ normal mode.

I wonder if the new Rx FW release will fix it. But I'd still have to get the plugs to do the update.
For now, I just have to remember that If I click the throttle hold, "that's it", can't fly again unless I disconnect & reconnect the lipo.
Unless, someone knows the answer...
- Spyro

Not a bug.

You need to go into the menu for THRO HOLD and edit it. I find -12 or -12.5 is good for me when I have the throttle trim all the way to the bottom and 0 if throttle trim is also zero.

I am going through a rotten patch with the V120D02S at the moment. i am having these brownouts seconds into a flight and two different receivers seem to be involved. I have also burnt a large number of tail servos at the same time.

I don't have a clue what is going on as everything appears to be working normally on the ground. I am going to send these two receivers back to Walkera for a check. However, I am not hopeful that they will be able to find anything out. I am going to order a new receiver and see whether the problems persist or not.

Hello !

I'm new on this thread, and havn't the courage to read the more then 400 pages !

I'm actually flying FP helis, but I know I will have to try CP helis soon (I'm addicted !)
I'm looking for a model that's not too big (more crash-resistant), and the fact it has a brushless motor and can bee ordered with a Devo transmitter is a plus for me.
It should also beeing able to handle some wind outdoors.
So I think the V120D02S should be a good entry in the CP world.

I'm also a little confused because Walkera has also the V120D05 and V120D06, and I don't know if one of these would be better then the V120D02S.

Speaking about spare parts, what is necessary, knowing that in the begining, I won't try to fly 3D.
I will have to learn that on a simulator before trying for real, are the Devo transmitters connectable on simulator programs ?

And a last question, where would you recommend to order one and spare parts ?

Again, sorry for these basic questions, but I'm totally new in CP and Walkera.

Roland

The V120D02S (3 axis) and the NEW V120D02S (6 axis) are arguably 2 of the easiest CP helis to start with. Forget the D05 and D06 at least for now, maybe forever.

There are 2 things that you will need to do to your V120D02S to make it more crash resistant:

1) Slipper clutch mod for the rear rotor
2) Servo saver mod to the servo arms

(plus
3 - replace the main gear pin with some shear pin arrangement
4 - method to keep a hold of flying tail control rod (dental floss method/tape method/under boom method/reduced collective pitch, etc etc)
5 - hot glue and tape to reinforce/repair skids and canopy
6 - ...
-).

Search the thread for the slipper clutch, livionabob can supply you a kit for a tail clutch if you need - or you can run the V1 non adjustable fuel tube one instead.
The servo saver mod - search the thread again but basically, it's a small slit in the servo arm which allows it to expand and slip instead of destroying the servo.

Spare parts... main gears x5, tail gears x5 (if you skip the clutch), main and tail blades x2, landing skids, canopy (if you care about the looks), tail control rod x2, boom.

Then you may, depending on how badly you are crashing require tail boom and drive shaft, tail servos (they tend to fry), cyclic servos (if you skipped the servo saver mod).... rotor head assembly with blade grips ... etc etc...

Originally Posted by dgibbons

I got a spin 16300kv & oversky hp08s 16500 kv motor this weekend. I have parts that should be here tomorrow so I can test fly the spin motor with the 10t stock pinion. I have a couple 8t pinions on the way.

I may also try the 130x main & tail blades.

I'll post some video once I have a chance to run some packs through both motors.

I'm really willing to see your conclusions on the best combination of a powerful motor, and pinion and blades!!!

Originally Posted by thwaitm

Not a bug.

You need to go into the menu for THRO HOLD and edit it. I find -12 or -12.5 is good for me when I have the throttle trim all the way to the bottom and 0 if throttle trim is also zero.

OK, thanks
- Spyro