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Old Aug 25, 2012, 10:04 PM
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Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
Speaking of MAIN BLADES.
I just installed my spare blades from my Blade 130X
I t is longer by 3mm (each one) BUT LIGHTER than the Walkeras.
I flew in front of my garage with limited space, but not at the field, so no 3D flights tested with them.
Everything seems great & smooth with no issues noticed.
Lighter blades should be easier for the motor to spin (@ lower pitch). Not sure if the 3mm difference will have a "noticeable" RPM difference, as I have not flown it in a big open space.
The green blades:http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Def...odID=BLH3716GR
- Spyro
Not to get too off-topic, how do you like your 130X? Significantly better than the D02S? I'm considering another D02S for my fleet but wondering if the money might be better spent on a 130X. Not certain if I want to stock up on spare parts on yet another heli though.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 10:22 PM
IHW Heli Division
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spyro37 View Post
Speaking of MAIN BLADES.
I just installed my spare blades from my Blade 130X
I t is longer by 3mm (each one) BUT LIGHTER than the Walkeras.
I flew in front of my garage with limited space, but not at the field, so no 3D flights tested with them.
Everything seems great & smooth with no issues noticed.
Lighter blades should be easier for the motor to spin (@ lower pitch). Not sure if the 3mm difference will have a "noticeable" RPM difference, as I have not flown it in a big open space.
The green blades:http://www.parkzone.com/Products/Def...odID=BLH3716GR
- Spyro

Nice find! They match the canopy excellently! The reduced weight should reduce some strain on the motor too! The blades being longer will actually be a good thing and should not effect the RPM too much. It might slow down the helicopter's flip rate. Making the rotor disc bigger might put more strain on the servos in that reguard. But it's the width of the blades when pitching that can really do you in. The foam blades are lighter but they are wider, so it actually makes the motor work harder in 3D, imo. These blades being so much lighter and the same width with a little more length. I'd expect them to perform great at the field.
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 10:48 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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Joined Jun 2009
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DON'T get the 130X! Very bad engineriing, if not maybe one of the worst Eflite Blade helis.
There is only ONE problem - TAIL VIBRATION, but so many different solutions.
It may be OK today, the next day, not. It might be "this" is the solution today, but next next NOT! It maybe fixable today, but tomorrow not, & in that case just get a BRAND NEW one and use the other for parts. Mine only flew one good flight (maiden). Then just got worse & worse. NO crash since I've owned it. HH still has my 130X but should be back soon. I bought it 3 days after it was released. Some had luck that did not have the tail-vib. Some returned them back to the store or HH. Some are spending their own money & time & deal with it. Some had success fixing it but would the "issue" come back or not is a big ?.
- Bottom line, it could drain your wallet.
- I'm hoping that one day, there will be a ONE TRUE fix to it from HH itself.
- After spending $$'s, I sent it back to HH for repair. I'm not counting on it, 'coz I've read it already in the forum, that his/their heli is back from service but the tail is still crazy!
- I've never seen a thread with so much complaint regarding an Eflite heli.

I really like the size of it, so I bought the 120D02S & 8S Tx. Then, also got the 300X which I also fly a lot. The 300X is very close to 450X., both uses the same Rx/Gyro.

I have all the spare parts needed for this one so I just ordered it, just to have a small belt-driven heli, it will be my first CP heli with flybar, hopefuly it flies good. Reviews were not bad at all. http://hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store...arehouse_.html
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...631872&page=53
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Old Aug 25, 2012, 11:41 PM
WIFE HAND LAUNCHED MY PLANES!
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Joined Jun 2009
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Nice find! They match the canopy excellently! The reduced weight should reduce some strain on the motor too! The blades being longer will actually be a good thing and should not effect the RPM too much. It might slow down the helicopter's flip rate. Making the rotor disc bigger might put more strain on the servos in that reguard. But it's the width of the blades when pitching that can really do you in. The foam blades are lighter but they are wider, so it actually makes the motor work harder in 3D, imo. These blades being so much lighter and the same width with a little more length. I'd expect them to perform great at the field.
I agree.
I just did some hard pitch pumps (front of my house) and seems to work great.
The blade is pretty balanced so I'm not getting vibration, but it's also less weight so that also helps. I just ordered the older Rx with 3axis gyro only (for Devo), so I could fully enjoy this heli. I'd rather have smooth fast forward flights (which is 6axis' "weakness") without any trouble. I should be able to fly again next week, my schedule this past 2 weeks was not "normal".
- Spyro

another option:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/BLADE-130-X-...ht_3797wt_1059
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 06:13 AM
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Joined Jun 2011
570 Posts
so sad....very sad....went to the field just then and started flying my best mate, v120d02s for the last 9-10 months....was sport flying it without the canopy (as my canopy is full of duct tape and weighs nearly 7-8g, too heavy for fast flying) on the 2nd battery pack and "TING'!!! hit the lamp post.....came down on the concrete floor....broke the elevator servo, rotor head, swashplate, lost 2 links....and worst thing was.....i broke the rx!! one of the gyro pots was detached and lost!! =( lesson for the day....make sure u fly with the canopy on..... =( now i'm thinking to buy a new rx or a whole heli.....luckily i still have my 2nd 120d02s as a spare.....
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 06:31 AM
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Originally Posted by ej189 View Post
Thanks for your complement.
A new hope is from 130X blades, lighter than stock blades for 2 gram and that do change 3D performance greatly, much faster cyclic control that I have to lower D/R down very much to hold it on.
Thanks for the Happy bird canopy files EJ189. I couldnt resist having a play around with Pepakura to finish off the birds using your previous canopy model.

I also downloaded Hexa Great but havent had much luck with that yet ... I couldnt find any links for Mars 3D or Super 5.5 but may try 3D studio at some point if I find the time.

Could you post the bitmap you use for the texture of your newer model happy bird so I can change the colours, and thanks for the warning about Tamyia paint ... I'd have probably tried that first!

Re 130X Blades I will try drilling holes in a pair of battered stock blades and see if I can get rid of a gram or so without ruining them... although I'd like brighter blades so maybe I'll get a pair of 130X blades in the meantime.

Finally do you have any tips on how to go about leveling the Rx to make piros more stable?

Many thanks
Oh and heres where I got to with the old style model Happy bird designs with a printable JPEG
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 08:49 AM
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Spain, Madrid, M
Joined May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ej189 View Post
Thanks for your complement.
The form blades are really light that may improve 3D performance greatly, but they are not durable at all and also get huge air resistance too and naturally unbalanced in weight and pitch angle that needed adjustment on each blade.

A new hope is from 130X blades, lighter than stock blades for 2 gram and that do change 3D performance greatly, much faster cyclic control that I have to lower D/R down very much to hold it on.
The head speed is still the same 4500rpm compare to the stock V120D02S I got it 7 month ago.
According to the length of 130X blades I have lengthen tail boom to avoid it from contact with tail blades.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NWj85...1&feature=plcp
Hi ej189, you seré absolutely right about the foam blades, I almost crash my heli right after taking off, the I replaced them for the stock ones and everything is ok again. After coming back home I tried to balance them, but they seem to be already balanced, maybe the culprit is on the pitch issue, may be there is a pitch defect on one of them and then may be I should compensate it with some pitch, if I did not undestand you wrong. By the way, your suggests made my heli fly really well and with much more power today.

I'll keep an eye on your investigations on those 130X blades, if you think they are promising then I will focus on them.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 08:51 AM
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Joined May 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
so sad....very sad....went to the field just then and started flying my best mate, v120d02s for the last 9-10 months....was sport flying it without the canopy (as my canopy is full of duct tape and weighs nearly 7-8g, too heavy for fast flying) on the 2nd battery pack and "TING'!!! hit the lamp post.....came down on the concrete floor....broke the elevator servo, rotor head, swashplate, lost 2 links....and worst thing was.....i broke the rx!! one of the gyro pots was detached and lost!! =( lesson for the day....make sure u fly with the canopy on..... =( now i'm thinking to buy a new rx or a whole heli.....luckily i still have my 2nd 120d02s as a spare.....
Sorry to hear that, the same thing happened to me some months go, and it was really frustrating. That "ting" sound hurts...
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 09:27 AM
Hong Kong
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ej189 View Post
Not knowing about DEVO7 and there seem no newer firmware after May, cause telemetry function amended in May, maybe you can try yourself like I did on my EVO10. Setting ELEV or AILE in failsafe to lean to the max or min, binding, wait and listen to the sound of servos. It happens once between 5~15 min.
It can turn off telemetry on DEVO10 to avoid that, don't know about devo7.
i am bit surprised that you have less than 100 posts here. It seemed as if you have been here for ever. Certainly, you are very influential. Nobody here would have known about the telemetry issue if you have not pointed it out.

I am having similar behavior to Orbitalgolem and I am sure it has got nothing to do with telemetry. What is perplexing is that two different receivers were involved. I am sure it has got nothing to do with my transmitter as it flies OK with my MIni CP.

There is nothing unusual on the ground but the brownouts occur once I am in the air. I cannot find anything wrong with the servos.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 10:43 AM
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IntegrityHndywrk's Avatar
United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Quote:
Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
so sad....very sad....went to the field just then and started flying my best mate, v120d02s for the last 9-10 months....was sport flying it without the canopy (as my canopy is full of duct tape and weighs nearly 7-8g, too heavy for fast flying) on the 2nd battery pack and "TING'!!! hit the lamp post.....came down on the concrete floor....broke the elevator servo, rotor head, swashplate, lost 2 links....and worst thing was.....i broke the rx!! one of the gyro pots was detached and lost!! =( lesson for the day....make sure u fly with the canopy on..... =( now i'm thinking to buy a new rx or a whole heli.....luckily i still have my 2nd 120d02s as a spare.....

Yeah, i had my share of stupid moments and crashes yesterday:

V120D02S Pitch fail and crash! (1 min 1 sec)
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 10:55 AM
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Malaysia, Penang, Bayan Lepas
Joined Apr 2010
460 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by eugenechong View Post
so sad....very sad....went to the field just then and started flying my best mate, v120d02s for the last 9-10 months....was sport flying it without the canopy (as my canopy is full of duct tape and weighs nearly 7-8g, too heavy for fast flying) on the 2nd battery pack and "TING'!!! hit the lamp post.....came down on the concrete floor....broke the elevator servo, rotor head, swashplate, lost 2 links....and worst thing was.....i broke the rx!! one of the gyro pots was detached and lost!! =( lesson for the day....make sure u fly with the canopy on..... =( now i'm thinking to buy a new rx or a whole heli.....luckily i still have my 2nd 120d02s as a spare.....
Yes, always ALWAYS fly with canopy with these tiny heli. The RX isn't protected with hard plastic, thus any impact on it would be nasty...
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 11:14 AM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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I've grown tired of replacing my main gears on my D05CS. It's about the only thing on the heli that ever breaks too after upgrading to the "S" parts. The old style gears are just too brittle and the D05 gear cannot be upgraded easily because of the belt drive tail. So like many people here and with other small helis. I've been using sheer pins to help prevent damages. Previously i used a paper clip but they seem to vary in hardness and often would not sheer even in the worst rotor impact cashes, like the one in the video with the D02S i just posted previous this post. The sheer pin should have broke, instead i'm missing a few teeth on my main gear.


So i went right to the hardware store and picked up some things to try. First i got a roll of 18 gauge picture frame wire. Which is aluminum wire. I had thought the jesus pin was 1mm in size. By converting metric to AWG i came up with the 19 AWG measurement would fit. I figured 18 AWG should be perfect! But i had a lot of trouble getting it to fit though. Since it's soft aluminum you cant push very hard either. So I moved on to my second option, which in reality was my first pick and was just hoping the picture frame wire would work because it was beefier. /shrug

Anyway, I will report back after a crash to see how it works out, i have good expectations. As long as it can handle the constant load and pitching with these upgrade motors. here is what i ended up using:

.032 aluminum rod stock



It fits nicely, especially since i already have some CA crudding up the area from the last sheer pin. I always use a dab of CA on each end so the pin does not slide out easily.



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Old Aug 26, 2012, 02:17 PM
Heli Crash Survivor
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Joined Feb 2011
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Has anyone ran across this? On my 2801pro I moved some models around V120D02S model 1, GCP BL model 2 and etc. & did a reset on a model # I wanted to delete. Got ready to fly my V120D02S & TX was in mode 1, had to change TX back to mode 2.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 02:38 PM
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Spain, Madrid, M
Joined May 2012
87 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I've grown tired of replacing my main gears on my D05CS. It's about the only thing on the heli that ever breaks too after upgrading to the "S" parts. The old style gears are just too brittle and the D05 gear cannot be upgraded easily because of the belt drive tail. So like many people here and with other small helis. I've been using sheer pins to help prevent damages. Previously i used a paper clip but they seem to vary in hardness and often would not sheer even in the worst rotor impact cashes, like the one in the video with the D02S i just posted previous this post. The sheer pin should have broke, instead i'm missing a few teeth on my main gear.


So i went right to the hardware store and picked up some things to try. First i got a roll of 18 gauge picture frame wire. Which is aluminum wire. I had thought the jesus pin was 1mm in size. By converting metric to AWG i came up with the 19 AWG measurement would fit. I figured 18 AWG should be perfect! But i had a lot of trouble getting it to fit though. Since it's soft aluminum you cant push very hard either. So I moved on to my second option, which in reality was my first pick and was just hoping the picture frame wire would work because it was beefier. /shrug

Anyway, I will report back after a crash to see how it works out, i have good expectations. As long as it can handle the constant load and pitching with these upgrade motors. here is what i ended up using:
May be you could try with a carbon rod instead, may be the little one which comes with every canopy would do it. That way the pin would be either in perfect shape or totally broken, but at the same time may be it could reduce main gear damage in case of crash. I have not tried it, it's just an idea.
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Old Aug 26, 2012, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
So i went right to the hardware store and picked up some things to try. First i got a roll of 18 gauge picture frame wire. Which is aluminum wire. I had thought the jesus pin was 1mm in size. By converting metric to AWG i came up with the 19 AWG measurement would fit. I figured 18 AWG should be perfect! But i had a lot of trouble getting it to fit though. Since it's soft aluminum you cant push very hard either. So I moved on to my second option, which in reality was my first pick and was just hoping the picture frame wire would work because it was beefier. /shrug
I use a small tappered carbide reamer to enlarge the hole slightly in the main shaft so the 18 AWG aluminum wire will fit in. I tried drill bits but they break easily

Good Luck, Don
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