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Old Apr 17, 2012, 09:15 AM
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United States, TX, Allen
Joined May 2003
132 Posts
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Originally Posted by Travis MCH View Post
Ok, thanks for the tip.

I'll try keeping my finger on the switch and hopefully that will teach me to do a quick flip and throttle down when I see a crash coming.
More altitude sounds good for learning technique when flipping. I suppose once I have it down I can can tighten things up and do it a bit lower.

Thanks,

Travis
Using TH is great but be sure you don't get too premature with it because you may start to bail out when you could have saved it. With the mCPX it was easy to TH and start flying again. Bigger birds don't like crashing even with TH. I have found with my D02S and my 450x I can save myself because they have so much power to punch out. The only crash with my D02S was an early TH that put me in the ground, granted I could still fly afterwards.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 10:45 AM
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United States, CA, Mt Shasta
Joined Jun 2010
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Originally Posted by krea View Post
Using TH is great but be sure you don't get too premature with it because you may start to bail out when you could have saved it. With the mCPX it was easy to TH and start flying again. Bigger birds don't like crashing even with TH. I have found with my D02S and my 450x I can save myself because they have so much power to punch out. The only crash with my D02S was an early TH that put me in the ground, granted I could still fly afterwards.
Trying to save the flight is how I get into trouble. I've smacked low brick walls and fences trying to pull up just in time.
Mike
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 01:08 PM
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Joined Apr 2012
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Arrggg... I got all of about 30 seconds of flying time before I barely nicked the ground and lost the tail gear. while fixing I had a look and it seems as if the tail boom is too long and that does not leave enough of the shaft sticking out for the tail gear to mount on. The gear was only "biting" into about a millimeter of shaft.

I shortened the boom a little and it looks like the gear has a little more shaft to ride on (Ok, I know in any other forum, that line would have gotten me in trouble )

I hope that will tie me over until Bob's magical clutch arrives

On a side note... also got the Genius and Msrx back in the air. Looks like I will fly those exclusively for a little bit now.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 01:31 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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Originally Posted by MadMatt986 View Post
Arrggg... I got all of about 30 seconds of flying time before I barely nicked the ground and lost the tail gear. while fixing I had a look and it seems as if the tail boom is too long and that does not leave enough of the shaft sticking out for the tail gear to mount on. The gear was only "biting" into about a millimeter of shaft.

I shortened the boom a little and it looks like the gear has a little more shaft to ride on (Ok, I know in any other forum, that line would have gotten me in trouble )

I hope that will tie me over until Bob's magical clutch arrives

On a side note... also got the Genius and Msrx back in the air. Looks like I will fly those exclusively for a little bit now.
I consistently have to push my tail box back on to my tail boom. I never tighten any of the screws that hold ANYTHING on to the tail boom all the way. I'm on my 4th boom right now and even it is cracked now from a crash. I don't know how my servos hold up and my blades but i've had to replace that servo rod and tail boom too many times. The screws, having no hole to screw into. Press the CF forcing the particles to split where the screw holds. When an impact happens the screw points will crack the length of the shaft. My next shaft i will be boring holes in the boom with a dremel and micro drill bits. Circles cut into fibers are stronger than the splitting of particles that the screws will produce. Its just like in wood shop. A thin piece of wood you always would have to drill a hole first or your wood will split before the screw is half way through. Very fail on walkera, and most heli mfgrs. parts. Just a thought on how to prevent these from splitting. I also use heat shrink on them to keep them tight so they don't crack, and if they do it keeps them tight. I use a small piece of very sticky 3m electrical tape on the servo rod clip located mid boom. This way in a crash your blades might not chuck the rod. Though occasionally you might put nicks in the blades from it too. Just some ways to help prolong the v120d02S's life. I bought that bird just to see how bad i could abuse it... i have done well and it has cost me, but i can honestly say putting heat shrink on the tail boom and upgrading to bob's slipper clutch makes this a nearly indestructible heli. Hopefully drilling holes for the boom screws will prevent cracks all together also. i have actually lost a few B gears that just fell off because the tail box came loose. Good news is i'm getting pretty good at landing on my skids in a tailspin

Just a bit of advise, always replace the A and B gear together if the shaft slipped out and managed to turn at all in the D hole. If the D hole is half stripped it will probably not be able to handle the torque and will fully strip shortly after. I've done this so many times and i still do it.... "Maybe it will still work" and then i crash.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 02:25 PM
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Joined Jan 2012
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post

Just a bit of advise, always replace the A and B gear together if the shaft slipped out and managed to turn at all in the D hole. If the D hole is half stripped it will probably not be able to handle the torque and will fully strip shortly after. I've done this so many times and i still do it.... "Maybe it will still work" and then i crash.
i dont agree, if the d hole of lets say the a gear is half stripped then this gear will be stripped in a crash so you will change this gear and not again the b gear>which means you can have 2 crashes before you need to open another tail gear pack.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 03:07 PM
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United States, OR, Vernonia
Joined Dec 2004
126 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I consistently have to push my tail box back on to my tail boom. I never tighten any of the screws that hold ANYTHING on to the tail boom all the way. I'm on my 4th boom right now and even it is cracked now from a crash. I don't know how my servos hold up and my blades but i've had to replace that servo rod and tail boom too many times. The screws, having no hole to screw into. Press the CF forcing the particles to split where the screw holds. When an impact happens the screw points will crack the length of the shaft. My next shaft i will be boring holes in the boom with a dremel and micro drill bits. Circles cut into fibers are stronger than the splitting of particles that the screws will produce. Its just like in wood shop. A thin piece of wood you always would have to drill a hole first or your wood will split before the screw is half way through. Very fail on walkera, and most heli mfgrs. parts. Just a thought on how to prevent these from splitting. I also use heat shrink on them to keep them tight so they don't crack, and if they do it keeps them tight. I use a small piece of very sticky 3m electrical tape on the servo rod clip located mid boom. This way in a crash your blades might not chuck the rod. Though occasionally you might put nicks in the blades from it too. Just some ways to help prolong the v120d02S's life. I bought that bird just to see how bad i could abuse it... i have done well and it has cost me, but i can honestly say putting heat shrink on the tail boom and upgrading to bob's slipper clutch makes this a nearly indestructible heli. Hopefully drilling holes for the boom screws will prevent cracks all together also. i have actually lost a few B gears that just fell off because the tail box came loose. Good news is i'm getting pretty good at landing on my skids in a tailspin

Just a bit of advise, always replace the A and B gear together if the shaft slipped out and managed to turn at all in the D hole. If the D hole is half stripped it will probably not be able to handle the torque and will fully strip shortly after. I've done this so many times and i still do it.... "Maybe it will still work" and then i crash.
You can buy the boom stock for pennies and cut your own. I got a lifetime suppy for 12.00 dollars will make about 60 booms. That way you can tighten the tail box so it wont slip off and losing a boom is no big deal i have 60 more booms

http://r2hobbies.com/carbon-fiber-sq...-x-1000mm.html

if you glue the B gear to the shaft with super glue and use bobs slipper clutch you will never need another b gear.

the other thing you need is to turn your boom upside down so the blades dont get the tail rod evrytime you crash

My 02s has thoudands of flights and holds up really good
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 03:17 PM
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United States, OR, Vernonia
Joined Dec 2004
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Originally Posted by iflyrvs1 View Post
You can buy the boom stock for pennies and cut your own. I got a lifetime suppy for 12.00 dollars will make about 60 booms. That way you can tighten the tail box so it wont slip off and losing a boom is no big deal i have 60 more booms

http://r2hobbies.com/carbon-fiber-sq...-x-1000mm.html

if you glue the B gear to the shaft with super glue and use bobs slipper clutch you will never need another b gear.

the other thing you need is to turn your boom upside down so the blades dont get the tail rod evrytime you crash

My 02s has thoudands of flights and holds up really good
since using the slipper cutch i have not last a singe cone gear i olose the main gear once in a great while but not often. Mike
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 04:18 PM
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livonia bob's Avatar
United States, MI, Livonia
Joined Apr 2009
16,526 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by MadMatt986 View Post
Arrggg... I got all of about 30 seconds of flying time before I barely nicked the ground and lost the tail gear. while fixing I had a look and it seems as if the tail boom is too long and that does not leave enough of the shaft sticking out for the tail gear to mount on. The gear was only "biting" into about a millimeter of shaft.

I shortened the boom a little and it looks like the gear has a little more shaft to ride on (Ok, I know in any other forum, that line would have gotten me in trouble )

I hope that will tie me over until Bob's magical clutch arrives

On a side note... also got the Genius and Msrx back in the air. Looks like I will fly those exclusively for a little bit now.
I think I have some shafts to work on tonight.. haven't opened the box to check yet.. I'll let you know later..
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 04:40 PM
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Joined Dec 2011
3,228 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
This way if you cut the throttle and have the throttle stick all the way down you won't rip off and chuck your servo rod, hopefully. This tends to be my most common replacement now that i have a slipper clutch installed. I went from ordering tail gears in 5 and 10 packs to ordering servo rods. I now use very sticky tape to hold the rod in the clip on the stabilizer on the boom. This has ruined a few blades for me and bent many of the rods but at least i can straighten them and reuse them instead of just loose them. worst case i get to salvage the ball links on the ends. I'm probably on my 15th servo rod at the moment. Using a slipper clutch will help save all of your drive gears from damage, but if the throttle is on while the main blades get pinned your screwed.
You need to put the rudder control rod on the underside of the boom.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 04:44 PM
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Joined Dec 2011
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Yeah my stock servo lasted about 2 months, and in reality still works but i just replaced it because of the jitter at "center" after binding to the TX. I have shot at least 15 servo rods off my heli too. I now use a better pitch curve in thrott hold. That servo works perfectly but i'm trying to lock out why my d02s goes into a tail spin after getting inverted. I'm starting to think it is the Gyro as i originally suspected. It doesn't go into a tail spin. But if i get inverted by doing a back flip it will spin a 90 degree turn to try and face the nose the way it was before inverting. In any case, yes these servos are cheap garbage. I will be upgrading my 4f200's servos to Align and Futaba for the tail because replacement gears are available. At least walkera sells replacement gears for these little servos, unlike the 4f200's servos. Thank god my v450 will come with metal gear servos, for whatever that counts for.
The cyclic servos aren't bad, it's the tail servo that has problems due to a low quality potentiometer. If they'd just use a better pot they wouldn't develop jitter.

The WK-09-09 servos on the V450 are still delicate compared to other metal gear servos and a lot of people end up replacing them. You can use the gear set for a Henge 933 to replace everything but the main output shaft.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Using a slipper clutch will help save all of your drive gears from damage, but if the throttle is on while the main blades get pinned your screwed.
A shear pin in the main gear solves this problem.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 05:24 PM
Ibs
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Brisbane, Australia
Joined Apr 2009
399 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
Yes, get in the habbit of flicking that throttle hold before you hit the ground. If you manage to kill it before the blades bind up you should be able to save it from taking teeth off. I sometimes put a very small amount of silicone on my main gear. VERY SMALL AMOUNT! or it will make a mess. But it tends to let the teeth slip in a bind rather than chew them off. Especially on smaller teeth like the D05. I know there is alot of opinions on this. I recommend not lubing your electric micro heli gears though just in case you cause more problems than its worth. Someone also told me you can use graphite as a lube on the gears and it won't make a gooey mess like greese because its more like a sticky powder or something. You should also set your pitch curve in throttle hold to a more flat position. This way if you cut the throttle and have the throttle stick all the way down you won't rip off and chuck your servo rod, hopefully. This tends to be my most common replacement now that i have a slipper clutch installed. I went from ordering tail gears in 5 and 10 packs to ordering servo rods. I now use very sticky tape to hold the rod in the clip on the stabilizer on the boom. This has ruined a few blades for me and bent many of the rods but at least i can straighten them and reuse them instead of just loose them. worst case i get to salvage the ball links on the ends. I'm probably on my 15th servo rod at the moment. Using a slipper clutch will help save all of your drive gears from damage, but if the throttle is on while the main blades get pinned your screwed.

I do very very high altitude flips in forward flight in normal mode. Just make sure you don't kill your throttle too much on the inverted part or the motor won't have enough punch to get you back to altitude once upright. If you are in forward flight, flying directly away from yourself you can pull back on the stick to start climbing. If your at a very high altitude you should be able to keep the throttle at full and pull off a BIG ARCHING back flip. But you will have to go into negative throttle in the inverted part and use your forward momentum to swing out of inverted and flip back to upright. I practice these kinds of manuvers at about 150 feet (tree top or higher). But then i have very good vision, soo with these little birds you might want to be careful you don't loose orientation. God knows i do sometimes. Thats why i try and do this flip when flight straight forward away from myself rather than side to side or any other pattern of flight.
Hi,
I set my blades loose in the grips and I reckon that helps save the main shaft, main gear and feathering shaft. They should be tight enough to hold the blades for tracking but loose enough to flop around.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 05:38 PM
Ibs
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Brisbane, Australia
Joined Apr 2009
399 Posts
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Originally Posted by iflyrvs1 View Post
You can buy the boom stock for pennies and cut your own. I got a lifetime suppy for 12.00 dollars will make about 60 booms. That way you can tighten the tail box so it wont slip off and losing a boom is no big deal i have 60 more booms

http://r2hobbies.com/carbon-fiber-sq...-x-1000mm.html

if you glue the B gear to the shaft with super glue and use bobs slipper clutch you will never need another b gear.

the other thing you need is to turn your boom upside down so the blades dont get the tail rod evrytime you crash

My 02s has thoudands of flights and holds up really good
I see you have reversed your tail. Does this mean you are blowing over the tall assembly? Alternatively, you could run the main and tail rotors in reverse. Do you know if this is possible?
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 05:42 PM
Ibs
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Brisbane, Australia
Joined Apr 2009
399 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IntegrityHndywrk View Post
I consistently have to push my tail box back on to my tail boom. I never tighten any of the screws that hold ANYTHING on to the tail boom all the way. I'm on my 4th boom right now and even it is cracked now from a crash. I don't know how my servos hold up and my blades but i've had to replace that servo rod and tail boom too many times. The screws, having no hole to screw into. Press the CF forcing the particles to split where the screw holds. When an impact happens the screw points will crack the length of the shaft. My next shaft i will be boring holes in the boom with a dremel and micro drill bits. Circles cut into fibers are stronger than the splitting of particles that the screws will produce. Its just like in wood shop. A thin piece of wood you always would have to drill a hole first or your wood will split before the screw is half way through. Very fail on walkera, and most heli mfgrs. parts. Just a thought on how to prevent these from splitting. I also use heat shrink on them to keep them tight so they don't crack, and if they do it keeps them tight. I use a small piece of very sticky 3m electrical tape on the servo rod clip located mid boom. This way in a crash your blades might not chuck the rod. Though occasionally you might put nicks in the blades from it too. Just some ways to help prolong the v120d02S's life. I bought that bird just to see how bad i could abuse it... i have done well and it has cost me, but i can honestly say putting heat shrink on the tail boom and upgrading to bob's slipper clutch makes this a nearly indestructible heli. Hopefully drilling holes for the boom screws will prevent cracks all together also. i have actually lost a few B gears that just fell off because the tail box came loose. Good news is i'm getting pretty good at landing on my skids in a tailspin

Just a bit of advise, always replace the A and B gear together if the shaft slipped out and managed to turn at all in the D hole. If the D hole is half stripped it will probably not be able to handle the torque and will fully strip shortly after. I've done this so many times and i still do it.... "Maybe it will still work" and then i crash.
You mention great shrink on the boom. Where do you put it? Surely it would make the boom too large to fit unit the frame and tail. Do you have any pictures? I am interested in this as I split so many booms. Some arrive split. Very poor quality.
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Old Apr 17, 2012, 05:47 PM
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United States, FL, Palm Coast
Joined Mar 2012
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To be honest i never thought of reversing the tail and putting the rotor on the other side. But I'm basically done with these 120 size helicopters. Probably going to shelf them most of the time. I'm sick of stripping tiny screws or breaking tiny parts my hands cant really even hold on to. My custom v120d05 with the D02S head and RX will be my main indoor heli after i get a new motor for it. It is way more durable than the v120d02S but the tail hold is a problem, new motor should compensate for that. I've abused my v120d02S and it flys for crap. I seem to remember a time when it was brand new that i could do a full stick forward punch out and the tail would hardly move. Now it only holds till about 75% stick any harder and it kicks just as bad as my v120d05. Since this occurs no matter the actual throttle curve, normal or 100% flat. I will be removing the slipper clutch to see if it is the reason. I think there is just too much torque for very hard punches. I suppose its not a big deal, but when you couple it with the funny spinning it does when trying to invert i have to try it. I can fly this helicopter with the gyros turned off just fine, in fact its easier for me to invert in adjust mode. It don't spin out on me. I think the Rx might be screwy, but i have to remove the clutch first to see. i have to wait and order a new shaft though because i freaking stripped the screw hole in the locking collar that goes on the end of the tail shaft. I suppose i could use the one that came with my clutch but i don't want to strip out the set screw too.

As for the tail boom replacements you guys are talking about, they do not have the round filling for the shaft do they? they are just hollow and square? That means they are probably just as or more brittle too. I know they are cheap, but the point is not having to frequently replace them. Thats why i'm sticking with the tube tail on the D05 with a belt drive. After crashing that thing a few times all i've had to replace so far is servo gears. Walkera really needs to get the D05 up to snuff. Its worthless before the customization, but now it's truly a dark horse. But reguardless, my 4f200 is my main driveway bird now and i have a v450 arriving for the park. On rainny days or when my others are down I'll take out these fragile little things. It wouldn't be so bad if replacing the parts didn't cost almost as much as the parts for bigger helicopters.
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