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Old Aug 24, 2012, 06:43 PM
Low'n Slow is safest, right?
KaiWE's Avatar
Norge, Østfold, Fredrikstad
Joined Jun 2011
553 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by strykerf27q View Post
Good call! I noticed my elevator was creased a bit but dident pay much attention to it. I will try to reinforce it to see what happens.
It might help some, but it will not solve your "problem" - this airframe ( both versions) will stall at full elevator almost no matter what. This is my experience after countless hours on the V1 and 1 hour airtime (12 batteries) on the V2. On the V1 it became better/almost went away when shifting the CG back from the figure stated in the manual (placing battery further back). V2 is more nose heavy from the start due to the bigger battery/ESC/motor, and I have not been able to shift the battery far enough back to fix the snap-tendency yet...

What you are experiencing is that the elevator changes the angle of attack on the main wing to much in relation to the speed, the main wing looses lift and stalls, and due to the construction of the wing, the left wing will stall first and the plane drop/roll to the left.
It is most noticeable at the top of a roll where the airspeed is lowest.

If you increase the elevator travel to the max, you can get the same thing to happen in straight flight - basically a snap roll...

The only remedy is to limit the elevator travel ( either by not pulling the stick to the max or by servo travel adjust/dual rate) to the point where the "snap" does not occur.
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Old Aug 24, 2012, 06:46 PM
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BryanEW710's Avatar
United States, OH, Cincinnati
Joined Sep 2010
1,653 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by KaiWE View Post
It might help some, but it will not solve your "problem" - this airframe ( both versions) will stall at full elevator almost no matter what. On the V1 it became better/almost went away when shifting the CG back from the figure stated in the manual (placing battery further back). V2 is more nose heavy from the start due to the bigger battery/ESC/motor, and I have not been able to shift the battery far enough back to fix the snap-tendency yet...

What you are experiencing is that the elevator changes the angle of attack on the main wing to much in relation to the speed, the main wing looses lift and stalls, and due to the construction of the wing, the left wing will stall first and the plane drop/roll to the left.
It is most noticeable at the top of a roll where the airspeed is lowest.

If you increase the elevator travel to the max, you can get the same thing to happen in straight flight - basically a snap roll...

The only remedy is to limit the elevator travel ( either by not pulling the stick to the max or by servo travel adjust/dual rate) to the point where the "snap" does not occur.
Thank you for explaining that! I know I've always wanted to understand that phenomenon.
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Old Aug 28, 2012, 08:40 PM
new kid on the block
mr.michael.2468's Avatar
United States, IL, Roscoe
Joined Nov 2011
374 Posts
ok so i'm looking at getting one of these micro 3D guys, i've done some really simple 3D flying on a 32in blu baby before believe or not lol, the guys at the fly field comment about how well i can preform with something thats really not the right type of plane at all for it. i'm a high school senior and my budgets pretty tight, so nothing big for me, and its going to be winter soon any way, so i'm getting a group together to fly at my high school's dome that sits over a 200 meter track. i'm getting them some sky 500's by nine eagles because they are rtf and slo-fly's. i was thinking about the mini swift to go along with them and have the same styled airplane but on a dx6i rather than a crap nine eagles controller.

i guess my question is which model should i get for v1 or v2? i don't own either, so from a first time buyer's perspective, which is a better flying machine? does the 3s really give the plane that extra kick for the 3D or is it not even important? from what i've gotten from this forum is that they have pretty similar fight characteristics, but what would you recommend? thanks a bunch,

and where did you get batteries for these things in the USA warehouses?
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 04:07 AM
ICrashRCs
United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Jun 2011
1,196 Posts
I don't look at these as 3D planes at all. More of a sport/aerobatics flier.
Look at something like the Reaktor.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 04:12 AM
Fly, crash, glue. Repeat.
Belgium, Walloon Region, Plombières
Joined Jul 2011
966 Posts
Agreed. Plus the step up from a Blu-Baby will be a big one. The Slick is quite fast and completely neutral so needs positive pilot input all the time. I don't think it could be considered an indoor flier at all, even in a seriously big dome.
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 04:25 AM
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stalyoni's Avatar
Sydney, Australia
Joined May 2008
3,187 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by IFlyRCs View Post
I don't look at these as 3D planes at all. More of a sport/aerobatics flier.
Look at something like the Reaktor.

+1 on the reaktor. I love mine but i think im going to put a more powerful motor and change out the cotton push pull system for carbon control rods.

Hobbyking reaktor 3d down the park good flight (3 min 23 sec)
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Old Aug 29, 2012, 10:09 AM
Low'n Slow is safest, right?
KaiWE's Avatar
Norge, Østfold, Fredrikstad
Joined Jun 2011
553 Posts
Another +1 for the Reaktor!

I have 2, with different motor set-ups.

I actually prefer the one with the smallest motor and 2-cell, much easier to do 3D and fly slooooow at minimum weight.

And I agree with IFlyRCs, the Durafly Slick (both 2S and 3S) is best regarded as sport/acrobatic planes, not 3D...
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 12:16 AM
new kid on the block
mr.michael.2468's Avatar
United States, IL, Roscoe
Joined Nov 2011
374 Posts
thanks for the suggestions guys, i don't know if you saw the part where i have already flown a super fast larger scale (42in long 16oz) jet that got up to about 100mph, i got the speed part down lol. im not sure if i'm really straight into 3D or not, i'm just looking for a fun acrobatic plane thats a little better build quality than a scratch build and is cheap and small enough to fly a little bit indoors. and lets be honest, even planes that aren't specifically designed for 3D can still be pretty good at it, like my blu baby, if i throw the cambered wing on there i can hover it and harrier it all day

now that im over that its not exactly a 3D monster (sorry for the misunderstanding) would you guys recommend the v1 or v2? and where to get batteries? i'd like to keep it usa warehouse, but i might have to go international because of the receiver it needs to go with my dx6i and the different servo connectors used. i'm not a fan of the 6 week delay and not knowing where in the world (literally) my stuff is..
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Last edited by mr.michael.2468; Aug 30, 2012 at 12:22 AM.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 01:42 AM
ICrashRCs
United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Jun 2011
1,196 Posts
Last page for a comparison:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=754
Get the R415 Rx and everything plugs together.
Your batteries need the red jst connector.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 05:15 AM
Low'n Slow is safest, right?
KaiWE's Avatar
Norge, Østfold, Fredrikstad
Joined Jun 2011
553 Posts
Flew V1 and V2 back to back again yesterday, 4 batteries on each.
Still like the V1 better, and cannot see any noticeable difference in top speed.

The V2 runs a bit longer (180mah in both), and if you forget about 3D and do sport/aerobatic flying, it is a perfectly good plane - just keep the speed up a little bit higher for the landing...

The airframe is very "precise" - it is a joy to to split-S'es, Half Cubans, stall turns etc. - feels every bit as good as my UMX Sbach when flying like this, but both versions lacks the slow speed handling of the UMX Sbach.
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Old Aug 30, 2012, 10:09 PM
new kid on the block
mr.michael.2468's Avatar
United States, IL, Roscoe
Joined Nov 2011
374 Posts
wow really? im surprised by that, i wonder if somethings lacking in the power transfer so its like choking the motor and the power the battery can put out. i know that both versions use the same rated esc... alright cool beans, well i'll probably go for the v1 after that, but where are you guys getting batteries? hobbyking has nothing in stock for american warehouse...
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 12:22 AM
ICrashRCs
United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Jun 2011
1,196 Posts
I screwed up on my last flight and got over my head and into the sun coming in on a nearly dead battery.
Even though this is a light micro, you do not want to nose it in. Have to replace the motor. Everyone should have at least one spare motor on hand. Luckily I have 3.
It should be repairable but I went ahead and ordered the only fuse and wing that was in stock last night.
The fuse comes with a canopy and motor cover which is good.

My biggest problem/complaint is the short flight time remaining once it hits LVC.
I haven't been timing it, just bring it in when it starts slowing down.

Mr.M,
I like the NanoTech 180 size batteries for the fit in the plane. They fit sideways on top of the servos with room for the wires. Runtime is short though. Would be nice to use some 240s in it.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 12:50 AM
new kid on the block
mr.michael.2468's Avatar
United States, IL, Roscoe
Joined Nov 2011
374 Posts
what type of connector does the plane use for the battery? it doesn't say, and hoe does this plane compare to the new planes out by mini-air?
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 01:59 AM
ICrashRCs
United States, TN, Memphis
Joined Jun 2011
1,196 Posts
It's the little red jst connector that comes on most smaller batteries.
Finally found you something in the US:
these are bigger than nano techs
http://www.valuehobby.com/gforce-15c...7-4v-lipo.html

I don't care for the Mini Airs. They use brushed motors and 1 cell batteries.
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Old Aug 31, 2012, 01:33 PM
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Krycek W's Avatar
Canada, QC, Montreal
Joined Jun 2012
147 Posts
Guys,
someone can post here the weight of the V2 and V1 with and without the battery?

Thanks!
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