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Old Oct 22, 2011, 05:39 PM
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Nebraska USA
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Just received my kit - arrived in perfect condition, and it looks impressive and well made. Also, I have a 38mm `turbo-style' spinner and folding prop coming.

Now I just need to work up the courage to slice off the nose (any suggestions to the brand of whisky I might need for that? ). Am planning to go with the 6-degrees down, 2-degrees right thrust arrangement, as many have suggested.
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 03:59 PM
your focus needs more focus
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Gunnison, Co
Joined Oct 2010
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Quote:
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(any suggestions to the brand of whisky I might need for that? ). .

"Maker's Mark"

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Old Oct 23, 2011, 07:16 PM
FPV Desert Beta Test Center
Mesa, Arizona
Joined Nov 2006
2,475 Posts
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Originally Posted by Zaurak3 View Post
Just received my kit - arrived in perfect condition, and it looks impressive and well made. Also, I have a 38mm `turbo-style' spinner and folding prop coming.

Now I just need to work up the courage to slice off the nose (any suggestions to the brand of whisky I might need for that? ). Am planning to go with the 6-degrees down, 2-degrees right thrust arrangement, as many have suggested.
Cutting through the epoxyed BB's with a blade could be a real pain. I have a bench disc sander and just ground the nose down to the epoxy. A couple of minutes with a hammer and punch was all it took.
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 08:02 PM
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Nebraska USA
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Cutting through the epoxyed BB's with a blade could be a real pain. I have a bench disc sander and just ground the nose down to the epoxy. A couple of minutes with a hammer and punch was all it took.
I don't have a bench sander, but I was under the impression (from build photos) that the epoxy/BB mix was located aft of where the nose would accommodate a 38mm spinner (I haven't opened the nose to measure that yet). If that is the case, I wouldn't have to cut through the BB mix with a hobby saw. Happy to hear the hammer and punch made short work of breaking it free. Thanks!
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 08:06 PM
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Nebraska USA
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"Maker's Mark"

Good choice and appropriate! If I can follow the `mark', I can `make' it!
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Old Oct 24, 2011, 12:41 PM
FPV Desert Beta Test Center
Mesa, Arizona
Joined Nov 2006
2,475 Posts
Warning on assembly of BOT dihedral braces

I don't know if all ARF planes are the same but on mine the plywood spacers that are epoxied between aluminum plates were not the same thickness. Two were thicker and two were thin. To assemble a brace you need to use one thick and one thin plywood spacer to end up with the correct brace width. The manual does not explain this and the spacers are close enough that you may not notice the thickness differance.
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Old Dec 17, 2011, 10:24 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jun 2011
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My BOT ARF Conversion

I started into sailplanes this year with a Radian. My second ship is the ARF BOT. Here's how I modified it:
1) stripped the monokote off and recovered with blue and pearl ultracote
2) reshaped the nose with a little fiberglass and added a Hacker A30 14XL and Graupner 14.5 X 9
3) put rudder and elevator servos under the wing
4) added spoilers
5) replaced the dowel setup on the leading edge with two 6-32 nylon bolts and made an aluminum hatch for access to bolts
6) took the wobble out of the supplied stabilizer pivot tube
7) repainted the red fuselage stripe to black and painted inside of canopy black
(will set up initial CG tomorrow)
It should have the maiden flight this week with the help of a more experienced pilot. I will be curious as to any tip stall potential and how the hacker works out. Here are two picks from my workshop.
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 10:11 AM
FPV Desert Beta Test Center
Mesa, Arizona
Joined Nov 2006
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That looks great NZ7C.

Mine is also about ready to fly. It is set up for FPV with an onboard audio vario that transmits the signal to the ground station via the audio channel of the video Tx.
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 11:45 AM
agnotology
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 02:00 PM
Mesa AZ, it's a dry heat!
USA, AZ, Mesa
Joined Oct 2004
628 Posts
Trimming for Flight

I have flown BOTs since 1979. My first and second were built from the plan published in the January 1979 MA I believe. The model needs to fly at a reasonable speed. It is not a floater. If possible try to get a copy of the Jan 1979construction and flying article by Dave Thornberg, the designer, and read his method of finding the correct glide angle.
Dave refers to moving the CG back a little at a time and adding down elevator until the model 'gets on step' and the glide slope suddenly becomes more shallow.
Don't expect to find this point immediatly, it takes time, experience and practice.
When you are happy, then by all means try the famous 'dive test' per Brian Agnew. It works!

Iain
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 02:03 PM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
Joined Jun 2011
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Can you describe, or better post a pic, of what your turbulators consist of, and dimensions? I'm new to this so forgive if this is a naive question.Thanks!
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Old Dec 18, 2011, 07:36 PM
agnotology
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 10:24 AM
agnotology
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 11:59 AM
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United States, AZ, Gilbert
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Kevin -
Thank you for taking time to provide the turbulator jpegs and the technical information. It is most appreciated. As I am not an engineer I wonder if you could explain what the following quoted statement means in lay terms and what "real life" flying difference I might experience with such a change? "From XFLR5 simulations, this should extend the stall at the tips from about 4.5 degrees to 7.5 degrees". Again, I thank you for your input.
Tim
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Old Dec 19, 2011, 01:37 PM
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