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Old Oct 21, 2011, 11:19 AM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
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Originally Posted by MARTE View Post
Hello Peter,
I think you should do a good job of finishing the RE 2005.
You should put the rivet stickers and draw good lines of the panels.
You should also create an effect of "weathering".
CR42 been viewing the work done on this link.
Congratulations for choosing the RE 2005.
Good job.
http://www.rcaeromodellismo.it/main/...r-aeromodelli/
Daniel.

Admin www.rcaeromodellismo.i
Daniel,

After some thought, I think I will just build the stock model "as is" just to get it finished and flying. Later on, if I have extra time during the winter, I may decide to detail it.

cheers,
Peter
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 04:30 PM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
Joined Oct 2008
561 Posts
Some more research on the Saggitario produced the below photo....

It is the Second Zero Series Reggiane Re 2005 Sagittario, s/n MM092344.
Has you can see in the photo the paint scheme is a gloss finish and not a matte finish. I was going to apply a dull coat to the paint as recommended by a few people, but it turns out in this case that would be incorrect.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 08:25 PM
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United States, CA, Davis
Joined Oct 2011
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Orvis ,

Got my kit today and checked for the issues you had. Ailerons are OK but the cowl is also too big. Haven't heard from my friend's yet. But it seems as this is a problem with the kit.
I will e mail Stelvio tomorrow, so that he is aware of this. I know it's a small issue and you apparently are happy with your fix, but it still should not be that way. At first glance the gear push rod set up seems a little iffy.
Following your progress with interest!
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Old Oct 21, 2011, 10:34 PM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
Joined Oct 2008
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Saetta,

Sorry to hear your cowl is the same; out of all the flaws that is the biggest in my opinion. All the others are fairly minor and can be fixed easily. The cowl not so much unless you do it quick and dirty like I did.
Can I ask you what do you mean by the gear push rod set up seems iffy? I looked at it and it is a typical set up found in most ARFs with mechanical retracts. Although, in a general statement, to me, all mechanical retracts setups are iffy that's why I went with electrics.
Let me know what kind of reply you get from Stelvio; I'm curious to see how this is handled.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old Oct 22, 2011, 05:36 PM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
Joined Oct 2008
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I epoxied the the hinge pins into the control surfaces today.
A test fit of the control surfaces into the wings and stabs showed that the gap between the surfaces and the wing was too big.
I took a 13/64 drill bit and opened up just the throat of each pin hinge hole to allow the hinge joint to recess into the wing. Another test fit shows that the gap is now satisfactory.
I also glued the servo mount blocks to the servo hatches. You need to cut the servo mount blocks from a strip of 8x20mm balsa supplied in the kit.
This is the first kit I have seen where you have to cut your own servo blocks. Normally, in ARF kits they are already cut for you. This prompted a mistake on my part by gluing the reinforcement blocks to be used for screwing down the cowl and canopy which I had mistakened for the servo blocks and compounded by not following the instructions. It wasn't until I realized the blocks were not wide enough for my servos. Fortunately, the epoxy had not dried fully when I realized my error so they were easy to remove.
Also I discovered one of the servo hatch doors was severely warped. However, after I glued the servo mount blocks to it and installed the servo, the door returned to its proper shape.
Btw, I am using Hitec HS325 standard servos in this model.

Despite my error with the servo blocks the build has been progressing nicely.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old Oct 22, 2011, 06:59 PM
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United States, CA, Davis
Joined Oct 2011
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Orvis,

I am not a technical guy, I have a friend that always builds my airplanes, (he has built an IMP Macchi 205, of which the kit was a nightmare, and he also scratch built a Macchi 202 from Dennis Bryant plans). He says that the push rod link on the retracts face the wrong direction, and suggested I buy electrics ! Therefore I am curious to know which retracts will you be using for your plane. I am waiting to hear from my friend in S. Ca. to see if his cowl is also too big before I contact P.A
Great to see your progress, you will have this plane flying in no time!!
Judging by the lightness and the large wing surfaces it should fly very well.
Mine will be powered by a Saito.91
Cheers
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Old Oct 22, 2011, 07:20 PM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
Joined Oct 2008
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Ok, I see what you mean about the retracts now.
The setup is similar/same as on the Spitfire. You either have to find a set of mechanical retracts that have control rod linkages bent up and back over the retract mechanism or bend your control rods down to clear the retract mechanism.
You're right though, you're are better off going with electric retracts. I used E-Flite 60-120 size 90deg electrics. I used them in my Seagull Models Dewoitine D.520 with great success.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 06:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orvis View Post
Some more research on the Saggitario produced the below photo....

It is the Second Zero Series Reggiane Re 2005 Sagittario, s/n MM092344.
Has you can see in the photo the paint scheme is a gloss finish and not a matte finish. I was going to apply a dull coat to the paint as recommended by a few people, but it turns out in this case that would be incorrect.

Cheers,
Peter
Ciao Peter,dalle informazioni che ho,solo uno(il secondo prototipo)era lucido,è montava un DB605 speciale,montava un elica speciale,e l'ogiva del Me 109,dalle informazioni pare che abbia raggiunto i 700 Km/h.
Ciao Massimo
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 03:02 PM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
Joined Oct 2008
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Ciao Max,

Non sono d'accordo.
Sì, il secondo prototipo con il tedesco DB605A costruito, VDM prop e filatore, MM495, aveva una finitura semilucida vernice.
Tuttavia, MM092344 nella mia foto originale era sopra lo zero aereo pre-produzione della serie ed è anche lui una finitura semilucida vernice.
Ciao Peter
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Last edited by Orvis; Oct 23, 2011 at 06:23 PM.
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Old Oct 23, 2011, 06:32 PM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
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Finished installing the servos into the wings. No issues there; everything went as planned. I want to note that I didn't use the control rods and linkages from the kit, but instead used a set taken from the Dewoitine. So happens that they were the right length for the Sagittario and dropped right in with minimal adjustments. Plus the clevises are metal instead of plastic.
Make sure you have your dremel tool handy; all the control horn screws are the same length and will need to be cut down when screwed into the ailerons and flaps.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old Oct 24, 2011, 02:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orvis View Post
Ciao Max,

Non sono d'accordo.
Sì, il secondo prototipo con il tedesco DB605A costruito, VDM prop e filatore, MM495, aveva una finitura semilucida vernice.
Tuttavia, MM092344 nella mia foto originale era sopra lo zero aereo pre-produzione della serie ed è anche lui una finitura semilucida vernice.
Ciao Peter
Ciao Peter,allora non dimenticarti di scrivere la matricola da te postata,così non potranno dire nulla sul colore lucido
Quando volerà,non dimenticarti di fare un video migliore di quello di Piccole ali
Osservo come procede il tuo lavoro.
Ciao Massimo
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 09:21 AM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
Joined Oct 2008
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I was going to install the E-flite Power 90 last night when I discovered the "X" mount for the motor had a crack in it. A strength test (technical term for trying to bend it with my fingers. ) proved to be the end of the mount as it broke into 2 pieces. I've ordered a new mount, so it's a waiting game now.
Probably a good time to decide what I am going to do about control linkages for the elevators and rudder. The Gold-n-Rod control rods I have look too big to put into this plane.
I am considering installing the pul-pull cables, but I don't have alot of experience with them.
Can anyone comment on the reliability of a pull-pull system? I'm worried about these things becoming slack or hung up in the fuselage during midflight.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 10:13 AM
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Davison, MI
Joined Sep 2007
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Hey Peter,

I am by no means an expert in pull-pull set ups. I have done a couple.

For me it's one of those start fresh kind of projects. I never fiddle with them at the end of an evenings work.

Every pull-pull I've done you cross the wires inside the fuse. Dubro makes some nice pull-pull attachments that I screw into ball links and bolt the ball links to the servo arm. Makes for a really nice clean set up.

When I thread the cable though the crimp I loop it back on itself so that if it ever slipped it locks on itself.

Here's a drawing of the way I loop my wire in this thread.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_47.../tm.htm#476152

BTW, I ordered a new toy for next year. I know you like the unusual so take a look at this.... I wont get to it till after flying season starts next year but I don't want to miss it. I've only seen it at one shop.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...6#post19683547

I'm hoping to see your fleet at out warbird day next year

Joe
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 11:49 AM
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Leduc, AB, Canada
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Thanks Joe.
Why do you cross the wires; what is the purpose? Doesn't that add the problem of the 2 wires rubbing each other?
The double loop makes sense.

Although I know nothing about gliders, it looks cool; almost looks like an Albatros... which would be logical knowing how an Albatros flies.

Cheers,
Peter
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Old Oct 25, 2011, 12:32 PM
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Davison, MI
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1,192 Posts
Hey Peter,

I guess I don't really know why you cross the wires... Except things seem to align better if you do.

I always got rubbing on something (like the rear fuse opening) when I didn't and crossing them fixed that problem.

I'm sure some manual required that I do that... I think my Maxford Tiger Moth and Powerline Hobbies (Maxford/Green Models) Sopwith Camel had lots of wires and rigging. I most of got that from those builds.

I wondered myself about the rubbing of wires on each other when you cross them but have never had an issue. I think the 3D guys do a lot of pull-pull maybe one of them might chime in here as to the rubbing?

Joe
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