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Sweet! Love the green stripes
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Latest blog entry: Helios and XXLite DLG
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Joined Nov 2009
2,448 Posts
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Very cool idea with the push rods going through the carbon tube. I also like the idea of putting the rods in and then gluing the horns into the wing. Getting the rods to just the right length is what keeps me using RDS.
luaP |
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Latest blog entry: The FireFly
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Joined Aug 2009
939 Posts
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Quote:
i have a template for marking the wing's , i use the front wingbolt holes to position the template. there's a plywood connector from upper to lower spar on the mid section of the wing , the servo's are glued to it for zero movent. there's also another piece of plywood 37mm after the spar , the servos are glued to both of them , so it leaves 5mm of gap to fill up with epoxy , it leaves room to move the servo's in the excact position(bended pushrod dead-on the hingeline) i mark it on paper tape as you can see on the pictures..., the only thing i forgot to mark on the above picture is the location of the hole where the servowires come out of the wing , this is also critical cause they need to be away from the ballast tube when mounted on the fuselage... -kristof- |
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Joined Aug 2009
939 Posts
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Quote:
i mark the locations myself , aswell as the throw peg location(next "chapter" in this build thread) |
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Hi Kristof
Really beautiful wings, especially the green one with stripes, is it on its way to U.S. or DK? ![]() Not that it is current now, but can you describe how you would change a servo. (God forbid that it should happen). Once you have glued the aileron horn, can you get the pushrod out, or how would you do it? Palle |
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Joined Aug 2009
939 Posts
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i hope this info will be useless too but here you go: the servo is wrapped in shrink tube , if you cut open the shrinktube the servo can come out. now you can flip over the servo 180° and it's out of the wing but still connected on the pushrod (make sure the servowire can follow as you do this) now you can just simply screw off the horn and replace the servo... a bit of glue and close the wing up again. it's really simple -kristof- |
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Joined Aug 2009
939 Posts
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throw blade installation
this where i do things diffrently from other's i guess, because the wingtip is so thin the blade needs to be installed rock solid.
epoxy isn't the best thing to use cause it doesn't get in the rohacell very well, thin CA is a much better choise IMO. it's important to have the foam around the blade to be very hard or to be replaced with something hard in order to prevent skin buckling on not so smooth launches. -kristof-
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My blades in my Helios are installed in a similar fashion, but I used epoxy. I took mine and made a tight hole for the blade as you did, then I took a peice of thick music wire and bent a L at the end. I heat the bottom of the L bend with a lighter, put it in the slot where the blade is going to go, and melt the foam out around the blade. It takes a couple of swipes and reheating the wire to get it all, but when you're done, you end up with about a nickel sized (~10mm diameter) void under the skin around the blade. I then put tape over the hole at the bottom, take a small syringe with some thin epoxy mixed with microballoons and some sanded carbon dust and fill the void, and then push the blade through the slot and through the tape at the bottom. Pull the tape off, wipe the excess epoxy off, let it dry! I think thats a pretty common way of mounting blades, at least in builds I've seen. So far mine have held great, but I'm also paranoid so I added a small circle patch (~10mm again) around the blade on the top and bottom because these wingtips are tthhhhiiiiiiinnnnnnn!! Gotta love those knife-blade wings! More details and pictures here: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...&postcount=165
The way you have done it most likely lighter! |
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Latest blog entry: Helios and XXLite DLG
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