|Oct 16, 2011, 01:12 PM|
Custom ultra-micro FPV wing, 1S, pan tracking, HD onboard
The 1Z is named after it's bigger sister, the 3Z, which is also a custom wing.
Reason of existence: the UM Stryker wasn't convenient for a HD camera.
- Depron (2mm)
- profile KFM2-like
- 4 carbon rods (1mm)
- Spektrum brick with 2 extra servos (4 total). The 2 onboard are unused, but I might use them for panning later.
- 1S brushed motor from a 4site
- 450mah 1S battery
- pliwood 1mm for the motor mount
- GWS 5043-like prop
- 5.8Ghz 200mW TX, micro camera, wide angle lens, micro 720p HD camera
- 58 cm wide (~22 inches)
- 22 cm long (~8.5 inches)
- 33 gr empty, 74gr AUW (1.15oz to 2.6oz)
Flies at anything in between, if you get the CG right. Max weight seems to be around 90gr, afterwards, the motor just wont be enough to have any kind of fun. at <40gr its quite sensible to the wind. at >70 it can fly with a good bit of wind, albeit the Stryker flies with stronger wind. The 1Z is also a lot more crashproof than the Stryker, even thus its "just depron". I crashed it quite a bit, pilot errors and some pure "lets see if the camera is well protected", and it still looks pristine o.O
If anyone is interested in plans, I'll try to make some. It can probably fly faster on 2S and be heavier thus care even less about the wind. In fact, I planned it for 2S, but I don't have the ESC/motor yet.
Another thing that is missing is the cloverleaf, but I'll add that soon too. It makes a world of difference on 5.8Ghz.
I'm also thinking of having it CNC cut with a real profile in EPP, after I test it on 2S. Reason for that, is that it flies well and carry the weight without troubles. Micro FPV is a lot of fun and compared to bigger planes, you can fly anywhere. You can even throw it from the Eiffel tower, run around and land in your hands, even if you're a crappy pilot like me ;-)
Bonus: doesnt make a lot of noise, and doesnt hurt anybody on crash.
Small flight vid (sorry for the cameraman, random pick )
|Oct 16, 2011, 10:37 PM|
It's also available as Sketchup document in the attached .zip, if you need more measurements, or prefer imperial.
Detailed build steps (if you already know what you're doing, just get the plans and skip that):
- i used UHU POR but use whatever suits you. Epoxy 5min for the motor mount.
- trace the wing on a depron sheet
- cut it out with a razor/sharp knife and a ruler
- measure cut slots for the carbon rods (be careful not to cut through the depron, in doubt, just dont cut the slots, it doesnt matter very much
- cut the rods to the proper dimension and glue the rods
- trace the extra depron layer and cut it out with the ruler (cut it in multiple pieces of course). glue it on top
- trace and cut ailerons and winglets
- use sand paper to make a round leading edge on the wing
- glue winglets (you can sand them a bit too to make em look nicer :P)
- cut a small motor mount - use whatever you prefer, I used a small 2mm pliwood rectangle on top of a thin layer of spare EPP (but it could be also depron, or whatever you like), as it would fit my 4site brushed motor rather well. Used epoxy for that. Note that it goes over the lower carbon rod. I like when the mount it slightly above the wing level because it protects the motor.
-glue the brick in the middle
- glue the servos on the side, check for the rod to be long enough to reach ailerons (!). I used a small 2mm depron under the servos and brick (so its 3 layers of depron under the brick) as reinforcement. They might not be needed, but suit yourself here.
-tape the servo wires with clear tape, before they get too annoying.
- clear tape the aileron's leading edge, it must cover top and bottom of the leading edge
- clear tape the leading and outer edge of the wing (aka all edges), it must also cover top and bottom of those edges.
- place the ailerons in their final position and use a single strip of clear tape to tape them to the wing. Flex them and make sure they work properly
- put the rods on the ailerons/servos, etc. I used small plastic bits from an icecream plastic box to attach the rods, but use whatever you like. Give a little bit of up elevator by default (very little) to give the wing some reflex. its necessary and easier than by programming (you can always adjust by programming or flexing the rods later)
At this point I suggest to make a test run, give a good 50% rate to elevator and ailerons for the first flight (i fly 100% once its setup as i like being able to give full elevator to parachute, but again, do whatever you like best here).
I put random bits of velcro in front so that I can attach whatever I like to the wing. Make sure the CG is spot on at 8.5cm from the leading edge, as the CG is VERY important on flying wings. It makes the difference between "flies awesome" and "does not fly AT ALL" :-)
Also check the LATERAL CG! If you put a battery on the side, make sure it balances out!
Once it flies, add the FPV gear and fly happy (hopefully!).
- i velcro the cameras slightly behind the edge for protection
- never put the flight battery behind the camera. put it on the side (or put the camera(s) on the side). its for protection as well.
- check my photo for my setup
- throw the wing full throttle by grabbing the leading edge
|Oct 16, 2011, 11:06 PM|
For whoever looks for the actual FPV equipement:
- 200mW 5.8Ghz TX http://fpvhobby.com/93-200mw-58ghz-a-v-transmitter.html
- RX From Hobbyking http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbycity/s...Receiver_.html
- Micro camera (in order of preference for me) http://fpvhobby.com/26-3-grams-cmos-pal-camera.html http://fpvhobby.com/52-480-tvl-33-6v-pal-camera.html http://fpvhobby.com/114-520-tvl-nano-cameraaudio.html
- Wide angle lens http://fpvhobby.com/138-wide-angle-l...no-camera.html
- teflon (HK) or enameled wire
-Cloverleaf antennas (MUST HAVE - even if my demo picture doesnt have one yet - my other planes do, huge diff) need to self-build the RP-SMA connector.. look around
- HD Camera (removed casing, changed battery for 100mah) this kind: http://cgi.ebay.fr/HD-Car-Spy-Cam-ke...item45fdce3941 you-ll have to follow instructions to remove the date on it
See this topic about the HD camera: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...1362692&pp=100
Finally, not using that yet but I might add a better lens to the HD camera as well.
|Oct 17, 2011, 03:17 AM|
Romania, Dolj, Craiova
Joined Sep 2007
A comparative video of all three would be great !
I own something very close to this and wondering how it stacks against yours.
|Oct 17, 2011, 09:33 AM|
they have vivid colors and work well. sun appears as a black spot. i've that one on a stryker and the 1Z wing
the nano is lighter, but the colors are pale, and the sun is more of an issue on that one. additionally, the ground is harder to see on it.
but again, its lighter, and has a mic. I have that one on one stryker. it seems of higher def, too
The one you linked is too heavy in my opinion, for the strykers. For the 1Z it probably works, but I have never ordered that one, so i don't know :-)
It could be one of the micro camera with a big lens/case.
Regardless, I always choose the PAL equipment because it has a slightly bigger resolution (slightly lower frame rate), as it doesnt matter much where you live, you're not going to plug it on the tv (if you do, nevermind!)
Cheapo micro cam + wide angle (this is my cheapo that has a bigger black halo somehow)
first part of the video is the 520tvl micro, then there's the nano as well
Nano camera only:
HD camera (def. needs a wider lens - and also, to point a little more to the ground :-)
|Oct 17, 2011, 09:37 AM|
I've also ordered that wing:
its like a mini swift, heavier than the 1Z but made of EPP. Just wanna see how it stacks up. If its good enough, ill go with that one, because custom CNC cutting an EPP wing of that size is about 30EUR (for me) as well anyway..
The 1Z has the advantage of being super cheap (been like 5EUR total for me) and works on 1S due to its very low wing loading.
I don't have any other 1S that can carry nearly as much ;-)
|Oct 17, 2011, 01:25 PM|
Added pan. Seems robust enough. uses just one servo.
I glued a few millimeters of pliwood on the depron at the front, and screwed a regular servo "arm" (well a round one).
the brick's servo has some piano wire going to that for pan. camera is inside a small EPP thing which is epoxyed to the servo arm.
simple and works. Should handle some crashes, hopefully.
|Oct 18, 2011, 04:39 PM|
i have just resized your sketchup to 44 inch span, i like the larger wing, especially for fpv, i will be using 6mm grey depron on my build, and will put all my fpv gear on, i need bigger span as my lipo's are 2200 mAh so if my bigger version flies as stable as the baby version then i will be very happy
i just put the numbers into the wing calculator, and am getting a cog of 9.8", and just re reading the posts, just wondering what the 3Z is all about ??
|Oct 18, 2011, 04:56 PM|
the original I made is actually 48" :-) (with a modified PW51 profile)
but the smaller version is not perfectly downsized, because smaller aircrafts always need a little more wing area and control surface area, so i made it a little more "fat"
In short, be careful of the CG, when the motor is very rearwards like on this model, it increases the lift at little cost to the weight (aka it makes the wing large/big), but all the gear has to be very frontwards and/or heavy to compensate, and by that i mean, even more frontwards than regular wings.
Hope you'll post pics and good luck
|Oct 21, 2011, 10:36 AM|
Uhm, don't like the hacker wing too much. its not bad. but its a tad heavy for the wing area, and not so much space for fpv stuff once u put a regular receiver in it hehe
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