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Old Jan 16, 2013, 09:01 AM
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United States, SC, Mt Pleasant
Joined Jun 2002
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Jeffsch,
great idea and thanks for the pics to supplement the concept. One question, why do you use a carrier sheet on the vinyl trim sheet? Couldn't you just stick the sheet directly to the mat? The advantage I see in your technique is that it would save wasted material as you have a better reference to the exact location of the cut.

Thank you for your suggestions. I need to get busy on my current build so I can try out these ideas.
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Old Jan 19, 2013, 12:34 AM
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Seattle, USA
Joined Oct 2009
898 Posts
You're right about why I use a sheet of copy paper instead of the supplied carrier sheet -- it saves on the trim material.

As you get going on this, I'm sure you'll figure out some good techniques; please post a note when you do.
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Old Jan 24, 2013, 02:54 PM
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Joined Jun 2012
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VC2000 vinyl cutter

Good thread! Thanks
Took a leap and jumped into the deep end and picked up a cutter during Xmas specials time. This appears to be a fairly common unit with a different keyboard that is sold by several different companies under different brand names (tiger, GCC, etc) - video is the unboxing and basics (couldn't find any on the web) made a couple of RC license plate frames and have done some little projects - working good so far.
VC2000 Vinyl Cutter Plotter (9 min 41 sec)
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Old Feb 01, 2013, 01:45 PM
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Independence, KY and Brandon, MS
Joined Jun 2000
701 Posts
I only recently came across this thread. It is certainly a very good place to see some real world experience from fellow modelers using vinyl cutters.

I can offer another data point to the growing experience list. I just bought a low end cutter from US Cutter. It is the 14 MH 361 MK2 model. Not many bells and whistles but it does have what I need for my intended applications. It also comes with a copy of the US Cutter Sure Cuts A Lot software package. Not a bad deal for $179.

My first use for the cutter was to cut some lettering out of Ultracote Parklite dark blue covering film. The Parklite film is about half the thickness of regular Ultracote, but uses the same nice waxed paper style backing.

The unit uses standard Roland cutting blades which is nice from a supply availability point of view. While the cut depth is set manually with this cutter, I found the process of getting the cutting blade depth set so it would cut only the thin Parklite film and not the backing paper to be fairly easy. A few cycles of manually running the cutter over a scrap piece of covering film and adjusting the blade depth did the trick.

This cutter also comes with a plotting pen adapter and I used that to get a feel for machine operation before trying my first cut. That really worked well and I anticipate that I will use the cutter as a plotter for printing full size plan sections. I do original designs so being able to print sections of the plans full size at home will be a nice bonus from the cutter.

After getting a feel for operation of the equipment I did my first cut with the Parklite film. I was both surprised and very pleased that the first attempt produced very satisfying results. The film cut very nicely without cutting through the backing. After weeding the excess film I used Glad Press n Seal as the transfer medium. That product has a low tack adhesive side that works great for lifting the cut film from its backing.

A common method for placing cut film graphics on a model is to spray the application area with Windex. The graphics and Press n Seal are then positioned and smoothed down. The Windex is allowed to dry over night and the Press n Seal is then removed. For my application I did not use the Windex step. I placed the graphics/Press n Seal on the model and smoothed them down. I then just went over the graphics with my trim iron set to low heat. The Press n Seal was then removed. Some of the Press n Seal adhesive did transfer to the graphics but was easily removed with a wipe of acetone.

At this point I am quite happy with this low cost cutter. I use CorelDraw for developing my graphics, but the included Sure Cuts A Lot software does seem to be fairly capable.

I have included a photo of one portion of the graphics I cut with the MH 361 MK2 cutter as applied to the model. The photos makes the edges of the letters appear a bit ragged but they are actually very crisp and nice.

Paul Bradley
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 01:32 AM
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Ramona,CA
Joined Feb 2008
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Add me to the list of happy customers from USCutters.com. I picked up a refurbished 28" MH721 w/o stand for $180 including Cuts Alot Pro software. I can also confirm a decent customer service call experience. I had some issues loading the proper driver (reman unit had older board) but was pleased with the contact.

Only thing I might have done differently is purchase the cutter stand. I wanted a all inclusive "cart" work station that could be moved around and placed away when not in use. But it would have been easier to incorporate the purpose designed stand into my idea than start from scratch. I thought a 36"x36" cart would be enough, but it gets small quick.

This was my first day cutting with no prior experience. I had been lurking on their support forum for a week and gleaned lots of good info. Also watched all the supplied USCutter starter videos. All this lead to a very successful day of "playing" with the cutter.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 11:05 AM
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Joined Jul 2004
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Studio designer software, Inkscape

Today I purchased the upgraded Studio designer software for the Silhouette Cameo and after opening my first Inkscape file I discovered the dimensions of the Inkscape file is 1.25 X bigger when brought into Studio Designer. Anyone else have this problem.
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Old Mar 10, 2013, 08:19 PM
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I don't have the upgraded version, but Studio Designer always messes up the scale for me as well. (from Inkscape or whatever else.)
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 09:42 AM
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I figured out I could rescale the object when I bring it into silhouette, or I suppose I could build at a different scale in Inkscape.
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 03:37 PM
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Lame as it sounds, I just write down one of the dimensions in Inkscape, export / import and then rescale it to that dimension. Seems like a job for a computer, but my dead tree tablet works as well in a pinch.
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Old Mar 17, 2013, 08:08 PM
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United States, WA, Seattle
Joined Oct 2004
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I'm working on a project right now that I want exact dimensions on. I'll see if I run into this issue.
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Old Apr 14, 2013, 09:52 AM
I'm going flying..........
rpmrpm's Avatar
Ramona,CA
Joined Feb 2008
649 Posts
So I've had my USCutter.com MH 24" for about a month now. What a great TOY......... I found a guy locally that does automotive "wraps" and will sell me large remnants of textured black or silver carbon fiber vinyl. It is very thick and I had to play around to find the proper set-up to cut it correctly. My next goal is to get a working set-up to cut Ultracoat w/it.
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Old Apr 19, 2013, 04:42 AM
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United States, LA, Blanchard
Joined Jan 2006
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I use a roland sv-15 , but have a cheaper off brand ccg and works really good for our needs..
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Old Apr 25, 2013, 11:00 PM
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Tucson, AZ, USA
Joined Sep 2000
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Here is a tip on setting blade depth and works great with everything I have ever cut.

Take the blade holder out of the machine and adjust the blade so that when you run your finger over it, you can JUST feel the tip of the blade. Now hold it vertical like a pen and drag it across a scrap of vinyl or what every you are going to cut, it should cut thru but not the backing (don't over do the down pressure on it ). Replace the blade holder and adjust pressure until you can cut thru the vinyl and just mark the backing paper. Cut a star about an inch big with long points, if it lifts the points it is still too deep If it's small lettering, slow the speed down. If it's a jagged cut, it's too deep.

The blade should be just sticking out in fact you have to really look to see the very tip that is just showing when you hold the blade holder up to the light.
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Old May 19, 2013, 03:17 PM
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Made this for my Beater. Got this plane from my brother never flown and hung for around 5 years.
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Old May 19, 2013, 07:43 PM
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Last thing I cut was a couple Futaba logos so I could by the $15 transmitter case at Academy Sports instead of the $30 one (same thing) from Tower, or the $50 'official' Futaba case.

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