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Old Oct 03, 2012, 05:15 AM
Extreme CNC Alloy EDF
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Australia
Joined Mar 2006
11,494 Posts
I can see now why so many have put you on ignore and been less than kind with their comments, you really dont bother to read anything someone else says do you. My post is very clear, I am not going to list every battery I have tested, its labelled C rating and then the voltage sag which caused it to become overloaded.

Temperature is a good indication for all laymen as to how hard their particular battery is working, this is nothing new its been discussed and posted for years in the various battery forums, you are not inventing the wheel. Cell quality and construction/materials plays a big part in a batteries ability to withstand abuse, the Ir is not the be all and end all of battery technology and you cannot gauge a battery by this alone.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 05:24 AM
EDF rules... :)
AirX's Avatar
Joined Nov 1999
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Originally Posted by Extreme_RC View Post
I can see now why so many have put you on ignore and been less than kind with their comments, you really dont bother to read anything someone else says do you. My post is very clear, I am not going to list every battery I have tested, its labelled C rating and then the voltage sag which caused it to become overloaded.

Temperature is a good indication for all laymen as to how hard their particular battery is working, this is nothing new its been discussed and posted for years in the various battery forums, you are not inventing the wheel. Cell quality and construction/materials plays a big part in a batteries ability to withstand abuse, the Ir is not the be all and end all of battery technology and you cannot gauge a battery by this alone.
+1
I try to read everything that Peter writes but when it gets to the point where his comments become condecending I skip over them, no one knows everything and certainly not Peter.
Mark at Extreme has been very good at getting things correct, he tests his products thoroughly and publishes the findings. There arent many companies that do this for thier customers in this day and age.

Eric B.
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Last edited by AirX; Oct 03, 2012 at 05:33 AM. Reason: Addded comment
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 01:10 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
5,021 Posts
I don't see PVRC's posts anymore, but based on replies I can imagine what you guys are up against, with him promoting use of low C batteries in EDFs.

Fact is, today I flew with some new 60-120C batteries in a plane that used to get 30C batteries, and man, I love it. Size and weight is about the same due to technology improvements, but the POWER, the FLIGHT TIME and the BATT TEMP all were synergystically improved. More initial power let me throttle back earlier, lower internal resistance also let the throttle stay lower, and also kept the temps down.

All in all, I'd say if you are going.to 'spec' in a battery as a replacement, don't EVER be a cheap charlie and get low C batteries, instead UPGRADE and enjoy the longer times, cooler temps, more on-tap power, and longer overall life (more charge cycles and less chance to puff or damage).

Knowing PVRC is out there somewhere fuming at you using those premium cells is just sweet icing on an already delicious cake.

Life's far too short to try to 'just get by'.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 01:15 PM
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I thought the whole primary purpose of using a lower IR Hi C battery is so that one could fly at 90% + throttle setting MOST of your flight without puffing your battery. At least that is why I go that route. It is a total waste flying in sea saw mode an entire flight. There is no fun in that. If I am flying a jet I should be able to fly full throttle for most of the flight with out smoking something. Is it just me ?
Now I know there are some that are satisfied just cruising around and for those a 20c Flitemax would do fine. So I think Peter & Extreme would do better to explain which FLYING STYLE a certain battery would be suited. If you are a full bore flyer from take off until time to land then use brand X at X C-rating for XYZ set up. If how ever you are a cruiser then brand X at X C-Rating would do fine for ABC set up. Now I know there are variables in there because some people will have a BL-32 with a CS fan and be cruisers. So what would the advice be for a set up that has the ability to be very fast ? The Hi IR battery or the better low IR pack.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 01:24 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
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Originally Posted by 91-ZULU View Post
I thought the whole primary purpose of using a lower IR Hi C battery is so that one could fly at 90% + throttle setting MOST of your flight without puffing your battery. At least that is why I go that route. It is a total waste flying in sea saw mode an entire flight. There is no fun in that.
While it's clear that those are your opinions, it might be helpful to identify them as such. Others might feel very differently. Example:

Me, I like high speed passes and going vertical, etc, but *MY* opinion is that only newbs and doofs run around at 3/4 to 90% throttle for the whole battery. I think it's the mark of an unsophisticated flyer. No knife edge passes (yes with an EDF)? No high alpha? No mock approaches? No low-n-slow parade lap, dirtied up with gear and flaps deployed? no scale-like slow rolls and loops?

But just banging it from A to B as fast as it will take you until the timer goes off?

Hey, if that's what floats your boat, then get after it!

That's the beauty part of this hobby; so many different ways for people to enjoy it.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 01:49 PM
Don't Move I've Dropped My Nut
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United States, AL, Huntsville
Joined Feb 2009
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Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
Example:

Me, I like high speed passes and going vertical, etc, but *MY* opinion is that only newbs and doofs run around at 3/4 to 90% throttle for the whole battery. I think it's the mark of an unsophisticated flyer. No knife edge passes (yes with an EDF)? No high alpha? No mock approaches? No low-n-slow parade lap, dirtied up with gear and flaps deployed? no scale-like slow rolls and loops?

But just banging it from A to B as fast as it will take you until the timer goes off?

Hey, if that's what floats your boat, then get after it!

That's the beauty part of this hobby; so many different ways for people to enjoy it.
A BIG +1, tracknoob!
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 02:40 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
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A BIG +1, tracknoob!
heh heh

Might not be the best example (my rolls were all very fast, was maiden day today, my landing was terrible) but here is video of me checking out my CS-10 fan equipped EF-16 just this morning:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1434
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:15 PM
Big gov never Works
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
heh heh

Might not be the best example (my rolls were all very fast, was maiden day today, my landing was terrible) but here is video of me checking out my CS-10 fan equipped EF-16 just this morning:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showp...postcount=1434
Thats about as fast as I would want to fly an F-16. Good job! Any faster and people will not know what it is. Are you using the stock adapters? Sounds like it is out of balance at the mid power levels. I had this problem with the stock adapters having a slight run-out. Just could not get a perfectly smooth run, through out the thrtl range.

I got two adapters from Mark, and problem solved. But I did have one rotor that had an off center arbor hole. No help for that one.

Fuzz
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:17 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
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Originally Posted by St. Martin View Post
Thats about as fast as I would want to fly an F-16. Good job! Any faster and people will not know what it is. Are you using the stock adapters? Sounds like it is out of balance at the mid power levels. I had this problem with the stock adapters having a slight run-out. Just could not get a perfectly smooth run, through out the thrtl range.

I got two adapters from Mark, and problem solved. But I did have one rotor that had an off center arbor hole. No help for that one.

Fuzz
Ahhhh! That makes sense! Because I was so careful with static balance, etc, but yes, it's the stock adapter.

I think I'm going to go with the Dynam kit -- they aren't the fastest or best sounding, but uber reliable, and ought to motivate this little bird just fine.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:21 PM
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Joined Aug 2009
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Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
While it's clear that those are your opinions, it might be helpful to identify them as such. Others might feel very differently. Example:

Me, I like high speed passes and going vertical, etc, but *MY* opinion is that only newbs and doofs run around at 3/4 to 90% throttle for the whole battery. I think it's the mark of an unsophisticated flyer. No knife edge passes (yes with an EDF)? No high alpha? No mock approaches? No low-n-slow parade lap, dirtied up with gear and flaps deployed? no scale-like slow rolls and loops?

But just banging it from A to B as fast as it will take you until the timer goes off?

Hey, if that's what floats your boat, then get after it!

That's the beauty part of this hobby; so many different ways for people to enjoy it.

Doing show passes with foamies to me is boring. Now its a different story with a 1/5 or 1/4 scale HEAVY model. Everyone expects a foamie to be able to fly slow. But to go as fast as a composite model gets a lot of mouths wide open and that my friends is what I aim for. There are a lot of slow flying foam planes around. I get my kicks from making them go faster than expected. How ever like I said they are cruisers that like to do the stuff you like to do. That`s why my preferred models are warbirds and not 3D kites. To me that is just as bad as watching the grass grow. Now try flying around hi wing loading models that will snap the second you screw up, around and taking them home with out damage year after year. I could tell you the fastest foam jet is still no comparison to a 40 lb 100" warbird in terms of relax flying. I fly foamies to relax.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:28 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
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Originally Posted by 91-ZULU View Post
Doing show passes with foamies to me is boring. Now its a different story with a 1/5 or 1/4 scale HEAVY model. Everyone expects a foamie to be able to fly slow. But to go as fast as a composite model gets a lot of mouths wide open and that my friends is what I aim for. There are a lot of slow flying foam planes around. I get my kicks from making them go faster than expected. How ever like I said they are cruisers that like to do the stuff you like to do. That`s why my preferred models are warbirds and not 3D kites. To me that is just as bad as watching the grass grow. Now try flying around hi wing loading models that will snap the second you screw up, around and taking them home with out damage year after year. I could tell you the fastest foam jet is still no comparison to a 40 lb 100" warbird in terms of relax flying. I fly foamies to relax.

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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:28 PM
Big gov never Works
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
12,312 Posts
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Originally Posted by tracknoob View Post
Ahhhh! That makes sense! Because I was so careful with static balance, etc, but yes, it's the stock adapter.

I think I'm going to go with the Dynam kit -- they aren't the fastest or best sounding, but uber reliable, and ought to motivate this little bird just fine.
Did you by chance rotate the spinner, to find the dynamic balance? A quarter turn at a time usually works. If it gets almost perfect, try adding a small piece of tape, in side the spinner. One of my adapters was such a small run-out, the only way I could verify it's being out, was to hold the tip of the adapter against a piece of glass and run the motor slow(with no rotor of course) It will make a tapping noise if not true.

Fuzz
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:31 PM
Diverted by planks
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South Florida
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Originally Posted by St. Martin View Post
Did you by chance rotate the spinner, to find the dynamic balance? A quarter turn at a time usually works. If it gets almost perfect, try adding a small piece of tape, in side the spinner. One of my adapters was such a small run-out, the only way I could verify it's being out, was to hold the tip of the adapter against a piece of glass and run the motor slow(with no rotor of course) It will make a tapping noise if not true.

Fuzz
I left the spinner off, just to keep things simple.

I guess the one thing I might do, now that it's already in there & before I cut it out for a new motor/fan, is try the 'clock' method to see if I can just experimentally find a smoother balance while leaving it all put together. I think I can use a long screwdriver and hemostats, etc to put on and take off tape to the blades, via the intake slots.
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:41 PM
Big gov never Works
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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That will probably help quite a bit. Static balance is only good for the rotor. "clocking" the spinner, will balance everything. Good luck!

Fuzz
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Old Oct 03, 2012, 03:42 PM
Big gov never Works
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Skunk Water, Rhode Island
Joined Jul 2002
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BTW, anybody ever land in that lake?
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