Originally Posted by PeterVRC

8
But at least using one with higher internal resistance means you can limit the motors current draw and thus keep it more in a power/current area you want it to run in.

heh heh

While not debating a word you said, or doubting your ruminations...

there is only one downside to your clever plan (one I had often thought of!)....

Higher internal resistance, to get the same current out of it as a 'better' battery means.... Yup, more heat.

and not in the ESC or the motor or the fuse, where maybe we could do something about it or manage it. Nope that's right inside the battery.... can you say "StayPuft marshmellows?"

I am in a 'tweener' myself right now on this F9 project, with KVs, weight, expected thrust, etc for my plane, but I think I am gonna solve it in the end by staying with the CS10, staying with the lower KV motor on 4S (instead of popping for 5S), and build it light. Leave off flaps, landing gear, etc, and make it a hand launcher /belly lander for our grass field.

Less muss and fuss.

Peter, That is what I was expecting on 2300 motor but my numbers are much lower,480wts,28amps measured on my wattmeter. don't know if should get a 5s pac or get the 2800 motor. Don't want to get the 5s pac if this motor is defective. put my 2w20 het fan back in the F-86 for now. Another ? do you run brake on or off?

run the brake off...better for cooling

I pulled the trigger and joined the ranks, ordered the CP 480 3300. It may be a bit high for the CS 70-10 but I got a P3 F-16 to put it in. After seeing Extreme's vid with a 3200 I thought what the heck as long as I keep it light.. My first Cyclone motor, good, bad?

Originally Posted by ApexAero

I pulled the trigger and joined the ranks, ordered the CP 480 3300. It may be a bit high but I got a P3 F-16 to put it in. After seeing Extreme's vid with a 3200 I thought what the heck as long as I keep it light.. My first Cyclone motor, good, bad?

I'd say good, the one I had I put over 20 flights on it around 2000 watts..I put more than 2000 watts on it and it didn't last past 3 minutes so if you're going to fly at 2000 watts make sure to use throttle management

Tom something isn't right with your figures as others have stated, they don't add up.

Are you sure the fan or adapter isn't slipping on you? Bout the only thing I can think of for such a low amp draw.

My 2855/ 2100's are pulling 36 amps on 4S

Tom... do you have the intake lip on the fan? I missed mention of that.
You will lose half the fans potential without that, on a bench test.

Originally Posted by petervrc

tom... Do you have the intake lip on the fan? I missed mention of that.
You will lose half the fans potential without that, on a bench test.

+1

Originally Posted by PeterVRC

Tom... do you have the intake lip on the fan? I missed mention of that.
You will lose half the fans potential without that, on a bench test.

what does the lip do?

Allows the air to enter the fan smoothly and not so disturbed and gives better efficiency.

Depending on the aircraft, you may or may not need, or get benefit, from a lip.
If the fan entry side has a full surround and is flush to the housing, then there is no need.
If there is ANY irregular shaping at the housing entry surround, then it will most likely benefit - but of course the actual shape and construction around there, space etc can dictate what you can, or can not, do.

And in bench testing it is that HUGE thrust loss if you don't use a lip.

Bench testing without an inlet lip will show ~30% drop in potential performance. If your getting 400-500watts without the lip then you will get ~550-650watts with it. The lip adds inlet area that will equate to loading the fan when flying. The lip also helps in acceleration because it allows more inlet area to the airflow stream. If the airframe your putting this into has ducting you will not need the lip when installed in the airframe the ducting will take care of directing the airflow to the fan, one caveat is there needs to be at least 1/8 inch thickness to the inlet duct of the aircraft or the system will not perform up to its potential, if the airframe does not come with a proper set of inlet ducting then the lip can be used in the airframe to help gather airflow to the fan. One more item to add with the airframe that has not inlet ducting the fan needs a little bit of duct leading into the fan which can be made from 1/64" thk plywood and the lip can be attached to that, the reason is that when installed into a bare airframe drawing air to the fan without a proper duct the airflow eddies arround inside the fuselage and creates a lot of turbulence, the short velocity stack helps to settle the turbulence into a straight flow pattern before reaching the fan. It helps tremendously. Now if it is a foamy like the Vampire the ducitng is already supplied and thus no extra ducting is needed except maybe outlet ducting if its not the correct size.

Cheers,
Eric B.

The above post should be a sticky!

Need to seek some advices on my setup.. running on 2w18 with CS10 blade 70mm with intake lip.. current drawn is ard 90A (max 105A), Wattage is 1150 W (max 1400w when sudden throttle up) when full throttle.

Is my setup efficient? in my F-22 70mm plane.

Running on 4S 2200mah... max i think is 2-3mins of flight time....the CS 10 blade Fan unit is all stock setup, no change in adapter.

Originally Posted by viperviper

Need to seek some advices on my setup.. running on 2w18 with CS10 blade 70mm with intake lip.. current drawn is ard 90A (max 105A), Wattage is 1150 W (max 1400w when sudden throttle up) when full throttle. is my setup efficient? in my F-22 70mm plane.
Running on 4S 2200mah... max i think is 2-3mins of flight time....the CS 10 blade Fan unit is all stock setup, no change in adapter.

You're running with a 2200mah pack even if it was a65c pack you're stressing the pack pulling 100 amps from it.

1105watts / 90 amps = 12 volts so the run time voltage is already dipping below 3.5 a cell...

Can you use a 3000mah or 3300 mah 4s?

Regards