HobbyKing.com New Products Flash Sale
Reply
Thread Tools
Old May 09, 2012, 07:45 PM
Diverted by planks
tracknoob's Avatar
South Florida
Joined Dec 2010
4,982 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
8
But at least using one with higher internal resistance means you can limit the motors current draw and thus keep it more in a power/current area you want it to run in.
heh heh

While not debating a word you said, or doubting your ruminations...

there is only one downside to your clever plan (one I had often thought of!)....

Higher internal resistance, to get the same current out of it as a 'better' battery means.... Yup, more heat.

and not in the ESC or the motor or the fuse, where maybe we could do something about it or manage it. Nope that's right inside the battery.... can you say "StayPuft marshmellows?"

I am in a 'tweener' myself right now on this F9 project, with KVs, weight, expected thrust, etc for my plane, but I think I am gonna solve it in the end by staying with the CS10, staying with the lower KV motor on 4S (instead of popping for 5S), and build it light. Leave off flaps, landing gear, etc, and make it a hand launcher /belly lander for our grass field.

Less muss and fuss.
tracknoob is offline Find More Posts by tracknoob
Reply With Quote
Sign up now
to remove ads between posts
Old May 09, 2012, 08:01 PM
Registered User
Los Banos Ca.
Joined Apr 2000
242 Posts
Peter, That is what I was expecting on 2300 motor but my numbers are much lower,480wts,28amps measured on my wattmeter. don't know if should get a 5s pac or get the 2800 motor. Don't want to get the 5s pac if this motor is defective. put my 2w20 het fan back in the F-86 for now. Another ? do you run brake on or off?
Tom Rouch is offline Find More Posts by Tom Rouch
Reply With Quote
Old May 09, 2012, 08:05 PM
no more glow models for me!!!!
iflyrc1012's Avatar
bklyn n.y.
Joined Jan 2008
881 Posts
run the brake off...better for cooling
iflyrc1012 is offline Find More Posts by iflyrc1012
Reply With Quote
Old May 09, 2012, 08:19 PM
Aka: Tom Jenkins
ApexAero's Avatar
Palm Beach County, Fl.
Joined Aug 2008
4,389 Posts
I pulled the trigger and joined the ranks, ordered the CP 480 3300. It may be a bit high for the CS 70-10 but I got a P3 F-16 to put it in. After seeing Extreme's vid with a 3200 I thought what the heck as long as I keep it light.. My first Cyclone motor, good, bad?
ApexAero is offline Find More Posts by ApexAero
Reply With Quote
Old May 09, 2012, 08:21 PM
Registered User
United States, TX, Grand Prairie
Joined Nov 2005
5,675 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by ApexAero View Post
I pulled the trigger and joined the ranks, ordered the CP 480 3300. It may be a bit high but I got a P3 F-16 to put it in. After seeing Extreme's vid with a 3200 I thought what the heck as long as I keep it light.. My first Cyclone motor, good, bad?
I'd say good, the one I had I put over 20 flights on it around 2000 watts..I put more than 2000 watts on it and it didn't last past 3 minutes so if you're going to fly at 2000 watts make sure to use throttle management
erh7771 is offline Find More Posts by erh7771
Reply With Quote
Old May 09, 2012, 08:58 PM
Kamikaze Ace
Glacier Girl's Avatar
USA, FL, Lakeland
Joined Jan 2010
2,355 Posts
Tom something isn't right with your figures as others have stated, they don't add up.

Are you sure the fan or adapter isn't slipping on you? Bout the only thing I can think of for such a low amp draw.

My 2855/ 2100's are pulling 36 amps on 4S
Glacier Girl is offline Find More Posts by Glacier Girl
Reply With Quote
Old May 09, 2012, 09:26 PM
Registered User
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
10,406 Posts
Tom... do you have the intake lip on the fan? I missed mention of that.
You will lose half the fans potential without that, on a bench test.
PeterVRC is online now Find More Posts by PeterVRC
RCG Plus Member
Old May 09, 2012, 09:45 PM
Hey Ya'll!! Watch THIS!!
Michael Paxton's Avatar
Nashville TN.
Joined Mar 2006
2,555 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by petervrc View Post
tom... Do you have the intake lip on the fan? I missed mention of that.
You will lose half the fans potential without that, on a bench test.
+1
Michael Paxton is offline Find More Posts by Michael Paxton
Reply With Quote
Old May 09, 2012, 11:17 PM
crashing build's character.
United States, AL, Dora
Joined Mar 2008
516 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
Tom... do you have the intake lip on the fan? I missed mention of that.
You will lose half the fans potential without that, on a bench test.
what does the lip do?
onefastxp is offline Find More Posts by onefastxp
Reply With Quote
Old May 10, 2012, 12:07 AM
It should fly at least once
clive45's Avatar
Australia, NSW, Grenfell
Joined Mar 2006
2,557 Posts
Allows the air to enter the fan smoothly and not so disturbed and gives better efficiency.
clive45 is offline Find More Posts by clive45
Reply With Quote
Old May 10, 2012, 12:56 AM
Registered User
Australia, VIC, Melbourne
Joined Nov 2006
10,406 Posts
Depending on the aircraft, you may or may not need, or get benefit, from a lip.
If the fan entry side has a full surround and is flush to the housing, then there is no need.
If there is ANY irregular shaping at the housing entry surround, then it will most likely benefit - but of course the actual shape and construction around there, space etc can dictate what you can, or can not, do.

And in bench testing it is that HUGE thrust loss if you don't use a lip.
PeterVRC is online now Find More Posts by PeterVRC
RCG Plus Member
Old May 10, 2012, 05:53 AM
EDF rules... :)
AirX's Avatar
Joined Nov 1999
13,517 Posts
Bench testing without an inlet lip will show ~30% drop in potential performance. If your getting 400-500watts without the lip then you will get ~550-650watts with it. The lip adds inlet area that will equate to loading the fan when flying. The lip also helps in acceleration because it allows more inlet area to the airflow stream. If the airframe your putting this into has ducting you will not need the lip when installed in the airframe the ducting will take care of directing the airflow to the fan, one caveat is there needs to be at least 1/8 inch thickness to the inlet duct of the aircraft or the system will not perform up to its potential, if the airframe does not come with a proper set of inlet ducting then the lip can be used in the airframe to help gather airflow to the fan. One more item to add with the airframe that has not inlet ducting the fan needs a little bit of duct leading into the fan which can be made from 1/64" thk plywood and the lip can be attached to that, the reason is that when installed into a bare airframe drawing air to the fan without a proper duct the airflow eddies arround inside the fuselage and creates a lot of turbulence, the short velocity stack helps to settle the turbulence into a straight flow pattern before reaching the fan. It helps tremendously. Now if it is a foamy like the Vampire the ducitng is already supplied and thus no extra ducting is needed except maybe outlet ducting if its not the correct size.

Cheers,
Eric B.
AirX is offline Find More Posts by AirX
Reply With Quote
Old May 10, 2012, 06:10 AM
Registered User
Greece, Attica, Athens
Joined May 2011
3,189 Posts
The above post should be a sticky!
anlucas is online now Find More Posts by anlucas
Reply With Quote
Old May 10, 2012, 09:06 AM
Registered User
Antarctica
Joined Apr 2012
746 Posts
Need to seek some advices on my setup.. running on 2w18 with CS10 blade 70mm with intake lip.. current drawn is ard 90A (max 105A), Wattage is 1150 W (max 1400w when sudden throttle up) when full throttle.

Is my setup efficient? in my F-22 70mm plane.

Running on 4S 2200mah... max i think is 2-3mins of flight time....the CS 10 blade Fan unit is all stock setup, no change in adapter.
viperviper is offline Find More Posts by viperviper
Last edited by viperviper; May 10, 2012 at 09:12 AM.
Reply With Quote
Old May 10, 2012, 09:14 AM
Registered User
United States, TX, Grand Prairie
Joined Nov 2005
5,675 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by viperviper View Post
Need to seek some advices on my setup.. running on 2w18 with CS10 blade 70mm with intake lip.. current drawn is ard 90A (max 105A), Wattage is 1150 W (max 1400w when sudden throttle up) when full throttle. is my setup efficient? in my F-22 70mm plane.
Running on 4S 2200mah... max i think is 2-3mins of flight time....the CS 10 blade Fan unit is all stock setup, no change in adapter.
You're running with a 2200mah pack even if it was a65c pack you're stressing the pack pulling 100 amps from it.

1105watts / 90 amps = 12 volts so the run time voltage is already dipping below 3.5 a cell...

Can you use a 3000mah or 3300 mah 4s?

Regards
erh7771 is offline Find More Posts by erh7771
Reply With Quote
Reply


Thread Tools

Similar Threads
Category Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
New Product Change Sun 12 blade 90mm Flip Flop Electric Ducted Fan Jet Talk 7070 Jun 27, 2014 07:21 AM
New Product Change Sun 120mm and new 10 blade 70mm fans Flip Flop Electric Ducted Fan Jet Talk 131 Apr 27, 2012 07:07 PM
Sold Change Sun electric retracts Flip Flop Aircraft - Electric - Jets (FS/W) 3 May 23, 2011 06:20 AM
Sold Change Sun Electronic retracts w/Lander struts hole digger Aircraft - Electric - Jets (FS/W) 2 May 06, 2011 01:27 PM
Sold Change Sun Electric retracts NIB 75.00 jzuniga Aircraft - Electric - Jets (FS/W) 2 Sep 03, 2010 09:36 AM