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Old Oct 25, 2012, 08:48 AM
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4stripes's Avatar
Canada, ON, Burlington
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Had a strange thing happen when running the XK4060-1500 with a YGE clone HV 120 ESC (Himodel version). With timing set at 0 and PWM 8 nice smooth startup and running to full power but after a brief run of full power the motor stopped dead. No heat from motor or ESC and once throttled back would run fine again. Did this 3 or 4 times and only stops at full power. This is my only ESC that has a 0 timing setting.
My son suggested that perhaps the 0 timing should be changed so I bumped it up to the next higher position of 6. The one run I made with 6 was fine with no stopping.
Anyone else have any similar experience with motor timing issues?
Thanks

On the subject of balancing, I found my last fan was dynamic balancing very well but couldn't quite get it perfect. I thought the adapter was tight but apparently not tight enough. Problem solved when a small amount of 5min epoxy added deep inside adapter to hold the motor shaft from shifting. Once solid, the vibrations could be balanced completely out.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 09:44 AM
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United States, TX, Grand Prairie
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4stripes View Post
Had a strange thing happen when running the XK4060-1500 with a YGE clone HV 120 ESC (Himodel version). With timing set at 0 and PWM 8 nice smooth startup and running to full power but after a brief run of full power the motor stopped dead. No heat from motor or ESC and once throttled back would run fine again. Did this 3 or 4 times and only stops at full power. This is my only ESC that has a 0 timing setting.
My son suggested that perhaps the 0 timing should be changed so I bumped it up to the next higher position of 6. The one run I made with 6 was fine with no stopping.
Anyone else have any similar experience with motor timing issues?
Thanks...
I've had a similar issue on the YGE clone on a scorpion, set it to auto timing and thrust picked up so I left it alone after that.

Quote:
...On the subject of balancing, I found my last fan was dynamic balancing very well but couldn't quite get it perfect. I thought the adapter was tight but apparently not tight enough. Problem solved when a small amount of 5min epoxy added deep inside adapter to hold the motor shaft from shifting. Once solid, the vibrations could be balanced completely out.
Great suggestion, I always had a feeling that some shafts wouldn't bottom out in the adapter and that was causing mine to run non perfect at low RPM...will try this soon
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 10:59 AM
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United States, FL, Lehigh Acres
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Eric, this method of adding epoxy to keep the shaft from spinning only refers to inrunners?
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 11:15 AM
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United States, CA, Los Alamitos
Joined Jan 2011
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Blades of the CS90

Hey guys, just want to let you know don't breath to hard on the rotor. I was pushing a pulling as the collet slipped to far in on my TJ90 shroud and I was just pushing the collet and rotor out. Mind you it was not tightened or anything pushed out and with my finger damaged the trailing edge of the rotor.

I'm glad at this point I didn't have the chance to spool up on 12s as I had planned. Back to the old faithful rotor I guess. I wanted to give it a go but this material was really soft.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 12:37 PM
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4stripes's Avatar
Canada, ON, Burlington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by out of stock View Post
Eric, this method of adding epoxy to keep the shaft from spinning only refers to inrunners?
This is not to prevent spinning, it is to prevent the end of the adapter and fan from wobbling from side to side. Some adapters are drilled slightly oversize. It takes very little movement to make fine balancing impossible.
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Old Oct 25, 2012, 12:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by erh7771 View Post
I've had a similar issue on the YGE clone on a scorpion, set it to auto timing and thrust picked up so I left it alone after that.
Thanks ERH
My programming card doesn't have an AUTO setting but I do see it in manual setting via TX.
Cheers Eric
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 06:53 AM
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Canada, ON, Newmarket
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I just checked the last 2 rotors I got, one was in a shroud the other was just a relacement rotor. I mixed them up so not sure which was which. One weighed 45g and the blades would flex more, the other was 51g and would barely flex at the blade tip. Guess I'm tossing the 45g one. That was the one I had ready to go too.
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 10:38 PM
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United States, FL, Lehigh Acres
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is it absolutely necessary to cut the cs shroud? because i dint.

i had to sand off a fair amount of foam to fit it but it fits nicely now! ive seen some guys that dint and some guys that have. what are the benefits of slicing it? btw thanks eric!
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Old Oct 26, 2012, 11:42 PM
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No real issue doing it either way.
Though technically, if you have cut it down it must be a BIT weaker. Mainly because it trims off some of the motor mount area.
But it shouldn't care about that at all really.... at least until very high power levels, and you should have gone alloy by then anyway.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 04:14 AM
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United States, TX, Grand Prairie
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Originally Posted by PeterVRC View Post
No real issue doing it either way.
Though technically, if you have cut it down it must be a BIT weaker. Mainly because it trims off some of the motor mount area.
But it shouldn't care about that at all really.... at least until very high power levels, and you should have gone alloy by then anyway.
as long as you don't cut into the can area it'll be OK, I'm doing the 9.75lbs of thrust with the 1400kv 4074 and it's been holding up without notice or worry.
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 08:30 AM
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Canada, ON, Burlington
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Quote:
Originally Posted by out of stock View Post
is it absolutely necessary to cut the cs shroud? because i dint.

i had to sand off a fair amount of foam to fit it but it fits nicely now! ive seen some guys that dint and some guys that have. what are the benefits of slicing it? btw thanks eric!
I only shorten mine because all of my models have space for a shorter shroud. Perhaps some efficiency is lost with the shortened stators. I also fit cooling fins on my inrunners and the shorter shroud makes it easier to mount the fins closer to the hot part of the motor.
It is only done for my convenience.
Cheers
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Old Oct 27, 2012, 06:08 PM
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Canada, ON, Newmarket
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Originally Posted by jefffassbinder View Post
Anybody using this on 12s with a 1100KV range motor. I have a 1515 laying around that is designed for 12s just wondering if the rotor can take the pain. If not the stardard wemo 90 is going in. But I really want to see if this thing the 90mm rotor can perform.

I ran it on 12S on the HET 1100kv motor, On the second flight with better batteries the rotor flew apart. I have a 2nd generation rotor I will try again.
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 01:16 AM
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United States, FL, Lehigh Acres
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people thanks for the info. i can totally understand why some guys slice the shroud. i thought it was either to shed weight and or fitment.
whats that rule again about watts per pound? i want to make sure my setup produces enough power to fly my bird.... will be doing a watt test tomorrow. i better get some sleep lol
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 02:18 AM
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United States, MN, Hermantown
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http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...er+pound+scale
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Old Oct 28, 2012, 03:44 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by davecrash View Post
I ran it on 12S on the HET 1100kv motor, On the second flight with better batteries the rotor flew apart. I have a 2nd generation rotor I will try again.
on 935kv HET I got around 12lbs of thrust on 12s at around 3/4 power before a blade tossed.

1100kv on 12s must have been a rocket
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