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Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:35 AM
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Bob P's Avatar
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Scatsob

The servo I used was 8 kgcm and that was good enough.

Bob
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:42 PM
Bypass Ratio = Infinity
scatsob's Avatar
United States, NC, Jacksonville
Joined Apr 2006
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TripleW View Post
They will be getting them at VQ warbirds also.
http://www.vqwarbirds.com/product_in...1321f8348b71a1
I saw that yesterday when I was looking around for other sources. There is also a guy out of Virginia that sells ESM stuff that I might try because they say they give a military discount and every little bit helps.
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Old Mar 13, 2012, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob P View Post
Scatsob

The servo I used was 8 kgcm and that was good enough.

Bob
Yeah, I know what I have is overkill. I just need to spend the time to fine tune the system. You wouldn't happen to have any pictures of how you set up the steering with the retract? I was thinking of just running lines from the same linkages as the rudder ones up to the tail wheel.
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 11:19 AM
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Wiltshire England
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Unfortunately I don't have any pics.

I ran closed loop wires from the rudder servo to the retract arm. I used closer in holes on the servo arm than the rudder to get a suitable gearing. To prevent any chance of the retract wires snagging on anything when slackened in the up position I attached a thread loop about an inch in length around each of the rudder and retract wires about half way along. This kept the retract wires safe.

Bob
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Old Mar 14, 2012, 11:21 PM
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I went ahead and finished the rudder/steering setup this evening/morning. What I did was ran a second cable from the same clevis up to the tail wheel control horns. It is not the perfect solution but it works well. The only issue with it is when I add right rudder the wheel causes the right door to pop open a little, nothing serious.
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 03:55 AM
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Prague CZ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scatsob View Post
I got a little work done on the stabs this morning. I mainly wanted to see if I was going to be able to mount the servos like I wanted to. It looks like it will not be a problem; I just need to buy some linkage hardware now. The only thing that was a little tricky is the 'lightening" hole was a little too long so I had to cut away some of the ply and glue in a mounting shelf.
May I ask what servos did you ussed?
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 04:53 PM
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FOX ONE!'s Avatar
United Kingdom, England
Joined Aug 2008
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I'm guessing Futaba s3102's in the horizontal stabilizer , but was also going to ask the question. Scott, what are you using for the rudder & ailerons?

Thanks!
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Old Mar 15, 2012, 09:21 PM
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Hey guys. I am actually using no name brand servos in this plane. Here is a breakdown of the servos I am using.

These are the servos in the horizontal stabs. They are quick, very strong, and center very well. As long as they hold up they will be a good 3102 substitute.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...idProduct=5192

This is the servo I have on the tail wheel retract as well as the rudder. I know its overkill for both but I have had them for a long time and never used them.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...5kg_16sec.html

These are the ones I used in the wing on both the flaps and ailerons. They are a great low cost metal geared standard servo.
http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/s...0kg_16sec.html
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 05:13 AM
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Prague CZ
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Thank you
I was looking on the link and the HK price is same as HS-5085MG over here, strange.
Anyway I lost ESM Ki-84 last year due to issues with the elevator so Im considering this option as the second one is almost done.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 12:53 PM
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That is strange. The servos from HK are more than twice as cheap (minus shipping) as the HS servo you referenced. Those HS have similar specs, they will work great.

What was the problem you had with your elevator? I did not like the idea of pull-pull on the elevator and I like to put the actuator as close as possible to the surface it is actuating. I would have done the same thing with the rudder but it would have meant major surgery to the fuselage.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 01:06 PM
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Prague CZ
Joined May 2010
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LHS has 5085 for $36 and that includes VAT. We have strong Hitec dealer with good pricing

Anyway I had 6mm carbon rod with MP Jet ends (but I got only 2mm ends) I thing this was not enough (stupid me) and I lost the elevator. It was total loss.
I'm considering to use the rod with 3mm steel ends or separate servos like you.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 01:26 PM
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Prescott, Arizona
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Sorry to here about your Hayate Vik.
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Old Mar 16, 2012, 03:42 PM
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Yeah, the hardware that comes with the kit is 2mm, and brass I think. The brass end broke off? I am using 2mm steel threaded rod and am not worried at all. It's not going to be a very fast plane on 6s.
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 01:04 AM
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Prague CZ
Joined May 2010
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The kit has actually 2,5mm or some close equivalent in inch size.
I got these ends. It is actually from Al type of material.
http://www.mpjet.com/market/index.ph...roducts_id=247
As I said I was stupid. Maybe the 3mm will do the job.

Anyway these are from the kit. They broke already in installation.


The one bellow is the replacement 3mm, others are original 2,5mm
They could be ok, but there is a design flaw. The thread goes to the end and this is the weak spot.
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Old Mar 17, 2012, 10:45 AM
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United States, NC, Jacksonville
Joined Apr 2006
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Wow. I have the stock linkages on the rudder and it was not easy to turn on those linkages but they did not break. I will triple check everything before the first flight, whenever that may be.

Anyone have any pictures of how they did the cowl for cooling? Hatches? Right now I am mulling over how I am going to do this. The only reason I can see at this point to have a hatch in the cowl would be that I could take the motor/ESC off for service without taking the propellers off, but thats it. The wing is going to have to come off for the batteries so no help there.
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