Originally Posted by AutoPilotOn

Does anybody know which wires to hook up to run the RSSI out on the Rx to the temp 1 input on the eagle tree OSD. I tried the top (PPM side) on the DL to the center pin on the temp 1 input on the OSD and it doesn't work. Any ideas

On mine (12Ch) its the one labeled rssi (signal pin)and then hook it up to Et as you did.
You have to run the servo analysis to get it to work and go thru the dropdowns in the osd to tell it to use temp1 for rssi

OK got nice solid blue led on RX's.
Think calibration need more time ,would say around 20minutes.Then it's fine.
Now need to test that Dragon Link... ;-)

Originally Posted by Juninou

Nice!! Thanks for the info! 8ch is more than I need now for my Zeph.
So how do you stop the transmitter to emmit it's original frequency? (I know, another dumb question...!)

Thanks again!

All the ones listed have a transmitter module which you remove and then plug the DL to the pins that the module connected to, transmitter sends ppm to the DL instead of its module.
http://www.dragonlinkstore.com/v2/node/10
You dont need the resistor with V2

Originally Posted by Panzlflyer

On mine (12Ch) its the one labeled rssi (signal pin)and then hook it up to Et as you did.
You have to run the servo analysis to get it to work and go thru the dropdowns in the osd to tell it to use temp1 for rssi

It worked...Servo analysis was what i was missing before...Thanks!

Hello,Mike.I have pay the money to you buy dragon link via paypal,but you return to me.Why???
Do you have it on stock?Thank you.

Originally Posted by greenbay

Hello,Mike.I have pay the money to you buy dragon link via paypal,but you return to me.Why???
Do you have it on stock?Thank you.

With the carry on here from some off his customer I would send your money back and tell you to go buy another brand...( If I was him)

Hi all ; i'm after a bit of info,
i have got my DL connected to TX and have the solid green light.
powered up DL-RX with the jumper on 5&6 signal pins, and get the
three lights lite, so all good so far
so here is where i'm getting stuck; with the callibration of 15 to 20 minutes
it said to leave sit for that long, then power them both off.
Do i take the jumper off the RX before or after powering off.
Then when it mentions a green light on TX and blue light on RX , does that
mean that only the blue light should be on, or all three lights.
Thanks in advance , i'm slowly working it all out , HaHa - so much to learn.

Power off then remove jumper.
Blue light is your link status it needs to be solid. Green off

Thanks for reply, so the jumper is only needed for the callibration,
the binding & ID change are all done with out the jumper after inital callibration.
if i understand correctly. the RX should only have sold blue light, what about the power light . the red one ? that stays on too - (yes-no)

Originally Posted by timbocan

Thanks for reply, so the jumper is only needed for the callibration,
the binding & ID change are all done with out the jumper after inital callibration.
if i understand correctly. the RX should only have sold blue light, what about the power light . the red one ? that stays on too - (yes-no)

When you are ready to fly, the red LED and the blue LED should be on solid on your RX. And yes, the jumper is used to calibrate, and also to change a parameter or two (such as rssi output on either channel 9 or channel 12), but NOT for changing the ID, and NOT for binding.

So if i get only red light on RX after callibration ; then i'm best to try again.
replace the jumper - place TX in cal mode - power on RX and let sit a bit longer
this time , and see how it goes. i'll try the 20min instead of 15min.
so the only indication that i have got it right. is that after the set time, i power down
both TX & RX then remove jumper .
power them up again and hope for a solid blue and red light on RX.
Thanks for the help ALL.

Originally Posted by timbocan

So if i get only red light on RX after callibration ; then i'm best to try again.
replace the jumper - place TX in cal mode - power on RX and let sit a bit longer
this time , and see how it goes. i'll try the 20min instead of 15min.
so the only indication that i have got it right. is that after the set time, i power down
both TX & RX then remove jumper .
power them up again and hope for a solid blue and red light on RX.
Thanks for the help ALL.

No, you won't get a solid blue until after you bind!!!! After you Calibrate, Change ID, and Bind, you will have solid red and blue!

Thanks again; just finished the sit test and ended up with just the red light again;
was sure it was something simple , in the process that i was missing.
will continue on with ID change & binding. and let you know how i go.

Thanks again!!!!
Before I rush to go buy another remote though, theoritally I should be fine with my 2.4ghz futaba+Dlink v2 if my fpv setup is 1.3ghz...?

Thanks!

Originally Posted by Panzlflyer

All the ones listed have a transmitter module which you remove and then plug the DL to the pins that the module connected to, transmitter sends ppm to the DL instead of its module.
http://www.dragonlinkstore.com/v2/node/10
You dont need the resistor with V2

i think i've worked out what i was doing wrong!
i was trying to bind useing micro-power mode , the difference between
slow flashing green & fast flashing green,
so now i have servo movement , but have flashing blue light - not solid.
still some work to do