Originally Posted by JettPilot

Some devices will pick up interference from any transmitter. Its not always the Transmitters fault... You can have a perfectly designed and perfectly clean transmitter, and if the receiver does not have proper filtering / shielding built in, it will pick up ANY signal close to it. Like Chanyote says, something as simple is moving the cable or shielding it may solve your problem.

Yes Mike. I have no doubt that DL is well filtered. But, at the same time, I think that the receiver is good filtered because I can see on the TV a good video (I use a Lawmate 1,2Ghz). So the real problem are the googles or the google's cable

Originally Posted by Vantasstic

I used my DL with Fatshark Predator goggles with no problems. My Pred's were 5.8GHz and had HORRIBLE range so I just used it as part of a wireless ground station. With the Fatshark VTx connected to my ground station and me sitting only a few feet away and with my DL in my lap I had no noise in my video. I didn't like the Fatsharks though...not very good contrast and not very comfortable. I sold them and don't miss them. I replaced them with a pair of Vuzix glasses installed in ski goggles....wired to my GS. These are OH SO MUCH better than my FS ever were, have individual focus adjustments, and are comfortable. All that said, I'd say you're problem is probably in the Fatsharks, not the DL.

I use Dominator googles and maybe this is different from Predator. I don't think that the problem is DL or something else... I hope only to solve the problem

Originally Posted by chanyote66

Its the terrible cable that Fatsharks use... If you run the cable over your shoulder rather than directly down infront of you (next to the TX) it will reduce this. Also you can make a better shielded cable that will help even more. I removed thecore from quad shielded COAX, Pulled a 2 pair wire through it and grounded the shielding. The other connected to the pins for the Goggles and the ground station. Id take pics but its all sealed now... If I make another Ill get the details.

Chris

Hi Chris and thanks for your reply. I'll try running the cable over my shoulder... then I'll try to search a better cable. Why FatShark cable is so horrible ? It seems a coaxial cable...

Originally Posted by chanyote66

Its the terrible cable that Fatsharks use... If you run the cable over your shoulder rather than directly down infront of you (next to the TX) it will reduce this. Also you can make a better shielded cable that will help even more. I removed thecore from quad shielded COAX, Pulled a 2 pair wire through it and grounded the shielding. The other connected to the pins for the Goggles and the ground station. Id take pics but its all sealed now... If I make another Ill get the details.

Chris

Then I would like to do a better shielded cable how you did too... so please, can you post one or two photos to understand exactly the work that you have done ?

Originally Posted by Moose2

So the AxisXtend won't work with V1 stuff- bummer.

Add a Channel Wizard and it will do the job, that's what I did on my 9C

I just got my DL v2. in and I'm having some issues getting it to bind. I'm pretty sure I've got everything plugged in correctly on my controller and Tx as they are both powering on properly (green light on DL Tx and power to controller DX7s). The DL Rx board powers on and has three solid lights (red, green and blue). I've tried switching the servo wires on the board and when I do I get flashing lights so I'm assuming this is the improper way of connecting the wires so I immediately powered it off.
I've tried binding it holding down the bind plug for 3, 7 and 15 seconds all of which have different flashing sequences (green, orange and green/red) none of which have seemed to show any sort of bind between the two devices..Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Problem solved thank to - FlyBoyMarcus

Originally Posted by TimeTrave1er

You guys are on to something. Even though there is no mention of it in my user guide, the H switch on the top right makes the "Off" say "On", but I have to hold the switch up since it pulls back down. How would I keep it on? Do I have to tape down the switch or something?

Also, unfortunately this does not seem to be giving me control of my Rx and quad. I tried the single wire PPM on channel 12. And I tried with normal channel 1 through 6 servos. No response even when I held up the switch so that Trainer was "On".

Thanks for the help guys but my problem remains a mystery.

Hi TimeTravel1er,
The trainer function will only turn on when INH is NOT selected AND the trainer switch is set ( or pushed) to the up position. What some people do, myself being one of them, is use an elastic band to hold it up. Usually... I wrap the elastic band around the trainer switch and Switch A (of course, I make sure that switch A is not set to any other channel).
Having said that, you shouldn't have to hold any buttons down to get control of your Rx. The trainer button is only held down when certain functions are to be enabled. For example, I have a head tracker and therefore I have set it up so it the head tracker is active only when the trainer switch is on. If my switch is not in the on position, I still have regular control of my Rx.
If you have more detailed questions on the Futaba, feel free to PM me. I'm by no means an expert, but I do own a 9C super myself and can try my best to help out a fellow pilot
HTH
WJ

Originally Posted by williamjames

Hi TimeTravel1er,
The trainer function will only turn on when INH is NOT selected AND the trainer switch is set ( or pushed) to the up position. What some people do, myself being one of them, is use an elastic band to hold it up. Usually... I wrap the elastic band around the trainer switch and Switch A (of course, I make sure that switch A is not set to any other channel).
Having said that, you shouldn't have to hold any buttons down to get control of your Rx. The trainer button is only held down when certain functions are to be enabled. For example, I have a head tracker and therefore I have set it up so it the head tracker is active only when the trainer switch is on. If my switch is not in the on position, I still have regular control of my Rx.
If you have more detailed questions on the Futaba, feel free to PM me. I'm by no means an expert, but I do own a 9C super myself and can try my best to help out a fellow pilot
HTH
WJ

Why not opening the radio and changing the trainer switch ?

Originally Posted by FlyBoyMarcus

Righto.... I solved my problem by finding another version od the "How to Bind" procedure in the DL manual. This one talks about a yellow light as opposed to the green one mentioned elsewhere in the DL website. I followed this and what do ya know, all good.



Binding
In this section, we will bind the RX to the TX. This process programs the RX so that it knows the ID of the TX it is intended to work with.
The following steps will bind the DragonLink TX and RX:
1. Start with both the DragonLink TX and RX powered off.
2. Press and hold the bind/menu button on the DragonLink TX.
3. While holding the button, turn the DragonLink TX on.
4. Wait at least 5 seconds, or until the LED turns YELLOW and then release the button.
5. The DragonLink’s LED should now be flashing YELLOW. If it isn’t, restart the process from step 1.
6. Power on the DragonLink RX.
7. The DragonLink RX’s “status” LED will come on.
8. Power cycle the DragonLink TX.
9. As soon as the DragonLink TX comes on, the DragonLink RX’s “status” LED should go dark.
10. Power cycle the DragonLink RX.
After power cycling the DragonLink pair, you should have RC control over the receiver. This can be tested by putting a servo on channel 1 of the DragonLink RX. On most RC transmitters, this will map to the throttle stick, which can be moved up and down to set the servo’s position.

Thank you SOOO much for posting this info..I've spent the past three days reading over forums and how to's with no luck..After reading this post I had my DL bound in less than a minute!...YOU ROCK BROTHA...THANK YOU

Originally Posted by Dissonant

Thank you SOOO much for posting this info..I've spent the past three days reading over forums and how to's with no luck..After reading this post I had my DL bound in less than a minute!...YOU ROCK BROTHA...THANK YOU

Same here mate, I wish they would take 10 minutes and update the website to reflected correct info.

Best of luck out there.

Originally Posted by FlyBoyMarcus

Same here mate, I wish they would take 10 minutes and update the website to reflected correct info.

Best of luck out there.

It would take a lot longer than 10 minutes The website is getting improved and much will get done there, but it is a big job. The best thing for everyone to use is to download the .pdf manual from either the website or here, which has very complete and latest instructions.

Mike

Originally Posted by TimeTrave1er

I believe it, the v2 seems nicer than the originals I've seen. I like the Tx stand too. But I'll really believe when I get it working

Hi Time Traveler,

No need to change RC transmitters ! The Dragon Link will work with any RC transmitter. Your replacements and RF module cable should arrive Tuesday, and this will allow you to easily find out where the problem is. You will be flying FPV further and safer than you ever thought possible

Mike

Originally Posted by GLADUS63

Why not opening the radio and changing the trainer switch ?

That's another option... if he's comfortable with it. I personally don't see a reason for opening it up if an elastic band can yield the solution he's looking for.

Originally Posted by williamjames

That's another option... if he's comfortable with it. I personally don't see a reason for opening it up if an elastic band can yield the solution he's looking for.

Ya know...I don't have any of those problems with my sub $100 Flysky 9X with ER9X firmware. Just say'n...

Originally Posted by Vantasstic

Ya know...I don't have any of those problems with my sub $100 Flysky 9X with ER9X firmware. Just say'n...

haha... way to rub it in Van
I don't have any issues with my 9C either