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Old Oct 31, 2011, 11:05 PM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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First we need to trim the plastic flange from the back plate and spinner , there is too much spinner so a shim for the pencil will remove a little more spinner.
We also need to prepare the motor for balancing the assembly.
Take the clip off the back of the motor so all you have is the prop shaft.
Save the clip, If you don't have a magnet to hold it for you somewhere use masking tape to hold against something easy to see.
While you are at it loosen the Allen grub screws and remove the motor bell housing too.
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Old Oct 31, 2011, 11:07 PM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
4,413 Posts
Use a razor to cut the bulb from the back of the spinner, light pressure around and around and it will come off, keep your fingers out of the inside of the spinner.
With the prop shaft ready to test fit, use the hobby knife to enlarge the hole by spinning it inside the hole. Be careful it doesn't take much.
Install the prop and back plate with washers supporting the back plate on both sides.
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Old Oct 31, 2011, 11:09 PM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
4,413 Posts
spinner / back plate assembly

This all sounds hard but it is not , sit down , relax and enjoy the hobby you will have an assembled balanced spinner soon.
Mark the formed prop slot in the spinner so it is easy to see.
Use a rotary file to route a groove in the spinner. once the slots are complete make a cut to the base of the slots.
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Old Oct 31, 2011, 11:17 PM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Lightly sand the outer edge of the back plate and the inside bottom edge of the spinner for the bonding job. install the spinner . . . . . Some bending of the spinner will be needed but don't worry it will bounce back just be sure there is no stress points that will start a tear. (round smooth hole where it turns)
Test fit the spinner to back plate joint and make any adjustments around the blades.
When you push on the spinner to seat it on the back plate watch for the prop blade to move , if it does shave off a bit of spinner in front of the blade and try again.
When you get close to a good fit, tape is needed to hold the splits at the base of the blade holes.
Putting the assembly in a hand drill will allow you to test for center.
Lightly push on the spinner tip, run the drill slowly. You will notice that the "high side" has a prop blade touching the edge of the hole. trim and try again and be careful not to cut the face of the prop blade.
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Old Nov 04, 2011, 07:38 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Apply polyurethane glue with a card to the joint and use masking tape to hold it while it cures.
This type of glue will hold the parts together but not melt the plastic like modeling cement will . This makes it possible for the spinner to be removed for prop replacement. Back in the drill for one more slow test spin to be sure it runs true.
then let it rest pointed end up so any glue that runs goes to the base.
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 12:13 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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After the glue sets up completely you can put the assembly in a drill and use a sanding bar to even up the edges and make the back plate run true now. 120 sandpaper works well . Lower RPM is better because fast will melt but not remove the plastic. Note : it's easier without the motor bell housing
Before you reassemble the motor put the assembly in a prop balancer . Use tape strips on the inside of the spinner to balance the assembly. Four layers of masking tape 1 inch long and the width of the lip in the back plate is all that has been needed for most of the spinners.
Even partially balanced, the power output is much better and they sound much smoother. If you don't have this type of prop balancer borrow one or install the motor on the stick, run it and try to balance with a hit or miss method. . . . . .Balancing, highly recommended.
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 12:15 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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mount the motor to the 10mm stick.

I had a hard time finding a 10mm stick to mount the motor so I bonded two 3/16 white pine sticks together and used the belt sander to make one.
Make it a tight fit!
OK that is a lie. .. .originally on the first Cartoon Plane I used what I thought was "really hard balsa" to save weight. The imbalanced prop caused the aluminum motor mount to chew away at the stick until the spinner rubbed the cowl during a flight.
( that was the squeal you heard on the prototype test flight.)
my point is make the motor mount with hard wood, at least bass wood. I've started using dowel stock sanded to 10mm square.

So
When the fit was good I mounted the motor to the stick. Later there will be a hole drilled in the cowl for motor removal , don't be afraid to make the hole large enough to peak through. it's hard to see where to put the screw on some of the cowls.
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 12:15 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Test fit the motor mount

reassemble the motor "E" clip bell housing and all.
Be sure to pre drill the hole for the mount screw and run it in and out a few times so the threads are cut Stripping out a screw inside the cowl is not fun at all.
The square holes in F-1 and F-2 should make the spinner match the cowl but adjustments are possible. Install the motor and the stick mount in the fuselage and align the spinner with the cowl. If any adjustment is needed a small sanding stick can be made to change the shape of the square hole in F-1. This will leave a gap that will be filled with glue on the next step.
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Old Nov 07, 2011, 12:17 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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Bonding the stick

Use two 1/16 balsa strips set the spinner back plate gap.

( Cancel that! ) I have learned that a 1/16 balsa plate does a much better job aligning the spinner and the gap looks much better when you are done.

Tape is used to hold the spinner centered and suggested while the glue sets up.. Apply drops of polyurethane glue with a stick to the motor mount stick where you can . The rest of the bond can be completed when this application sets up and we are connecting the ESC.
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 12:15 PM
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Leeds, UK
Joined Nov 2004
1,182 Posts
hi - is this a kit. i have been wanting one of these when i saw this video on youtube around a month ago
Q版PA28飛行-頭文字D塗裝.wmv (3 min 21 sec)
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 12:41 PM
Watt Waster
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Joined Oct 2010
1,706 Posts
Not a Kit, but a Scratch Build

Quote:
Originally Posted by muscleflex View Post
hi - is this a kit. i have been wanting one of these when i saw this video on youtube around a month ago
This isn't the best place to ask since the maker has his own build/discussion thread, but all his stuff is a scrach build. He normally uses very thin 2-3mm Depron. Below is the link to the maker's RC Groups page. He has many other cartoon style builds also, and some are jets.


http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1144798
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Last edited by Tsavah; Nov 08, 2011 at 12:56 PM. Reason: spelling ...
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 12:48 PM
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150 mile house B.C. Canada
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by muscleflex View Post
hi - is this a kit. i have been wanting one of these when i saw this video on youtube around a month ago
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=877ts...ure=plpp_video
Plans for that one are on page 12 of the above thread
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 10:06 PM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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What the heck was that all about?
Blatant hijacking.
Muscleflex, Next time go to the video and ask the guy that posted it.
Cool plane though
Well now that we are done with that .
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 10:09 PM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
4,413 Posts
Tires.

You may have a different way to attach wheels but this has worked out best for me.
The large Sullivan push rods fit the gear wire very tight so all I have to do is heat the end of the plastic and smash it against something smooth while it cools to form a collect.
From there, all that is needed is to hold the wire (airplane and all) and push the wire into the plastic. for removal the end is clipped off and then the plastic has to be cut off the wire.
The tail wheel collect is held in place with CA.
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Old Nov 08, 2011, 10:09 PM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
4,413 Posts
The fin bonds to the aft end of the fuselage and the top of the stabilizer.
Hold it in place vertically with a strip of masking tape attached to the tips of the stabilizer and over the top of the fin.
If you apply a short strip of tape sticky to sticky where it touches the edge of the fin adjustments are easy.
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