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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:21 AM
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sparks's Avatar
Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
4,547 Posts
Build Log
Cartoon Spitfire!

I've had a good time with the other two cartoon War birds seen here:

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...4&goto=newpost

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...5&goto=newpost

Thanks to everyone that ordered the Cartoon spitfire based on the video only . Your trust is appreciated.
This may be the most "tooned" model of the flock and if you watched the video this may be the reason it doesn't like to be upside down. ( It tends to get unstable while inverted) it is the cleanest of the flock though that is to say it has a wider speed envelope than the rest.
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:22 AM
RC 4 Life
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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How could I not do a Spitfire? I'm going for a model that uses the same equipment and is the same size and weight. The control surfaces will have basically the same area in an attempt to make them fly the same as well. Like the Cartoon Mustang and ME-109 It will not require shaping the foam sheets and not be boxy. This will require some formed plastic parts that is available on the website with the printed plans/ patterns.
www.parkflyerplastics.com
You might notice that this thread is very similar to the other threads because it is. The instructions are nearly the same but the sequence may be different and I thought that a separate thread would be easier for your build.

Development
The first one was built to test the airframe for weak points and evaluate the flight qualities and to test the plastic part fit. I went with Cartoon Spitfire title because the model is not as fat as the "Fatty planes " seen elsewhere but skewed enough to "cartoon the model and allow me to exaggerate the features. The model features an easy to build airfoil so the slow flying speeds will be more stable like the rest.
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Last edited by sparks; Sep 07, 2013 at 10:30 AM.
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:24 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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What you will get is the Plans and plastic parts listed on the site.
The plans would better be described as a pattern page since you don't actually build it over printed paper. The plastic parts is what makes this model go together so fast , there is no foam forming required.
The materials you will need is
One sheet of 3mm foam and less than 1/8 sheet of 6mm
Gorilla glue ( polyurethane glue)
An Out runner motor that can spin a 8 inch prop at 1800 KV
Three cell 800mah battery
10 amp ESC
Two small servos and a receiver.
Hinge material and other pieces of hardware.
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:26 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
4,547 Posts
Construction.

To build the Cartoon Spitfire I started with the fuselage. I used spray adhesive to bond the patterns to card stock , About the thickness of large mail envelopes is about right.
I carefully cut the patterns out using scissors for the curved edges and a straight edge and hobby knife for the straight cuts. These straight cuts should be made on a smooth hard surface since you have to push down fairly hard; too hard for a craft cutting board.
If you don't have a cutting board get one, when you cut sheet foam it saves blades and keeps them from getting dull.
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:28 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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The hardest part about cutting the formers was keeping the knife 90 degrees to the building surface it's not hard at all.
When you cut the 3mm side panels cut them at the same time. This ensures that they are identical.
Before they are separated mark the former locations at the same time for the same reason. Note that the wing saddle curve should be cut oversized.
This is to be sure there is material available for a perfect fit when the wing mates with the fuselage. To cut the saddle for some extra material I simply slid the pattern down 1/8inch when I cut that portion of the fuselage sides.
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:33 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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fuselage crutch

I started assembly with a former test fit. Each former notch is roughly 1/16 small on purpose this makes it necessary to bow the sides slightly to get the formers to fit in the notch. Starting from the front to back I added the formers. Pairs of short tape strips was used to trap the formers in place on the marks and provided clamp pressure. .

We need the wing already but keep in mind that there is still lots that can be done with the fuselage while the wing goes together. Later, when the thread covers it I'll direct you to the steps that can be completed.
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Old Oct 05, 2011, 07:44 PM
Registered User
United States, FL, Miami
Joined Jan 2009
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awesome planes spark! i have my kit all ready to start the build. any news on p-40?
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 10:44 AM
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Wow, these look great!! I'm interested now ---and if you do build a P-40, I will be ordering it!
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 12:14 PM
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Baar, Switzerland
Joined Oct 2006
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Just watched the youtube vid.
In your comment you write "This is a flight demonstration of the Parkflyerplastics ME-109 Cartoon model."
Shame on you !
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Old Oct 07, 2011, 05:14 PM
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Canada, BC, Williams Lake
Joined Jan 2010
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Quote:
Originally Posted by g00se View Post
Wow, these look great!! I'm interested now ---and if you do build a P-40, I will be ordering it!
He has built a P40 its just not finalized yet , i want to get it and the 109 once i get the stang and spit done
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Old Oct 11, 2011, 06:42 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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The threads, order demands, fun flys, my job , house chores and weather have all caused delays to the P-40.
So far it has not test flown but the drawing is very close to being complete.
All that is left is fitting all the patterns and illustrations on the allotted page space, sort of like a puzzle.
So far I have managed to keep the patterns and instructions in separate areas so you are not reading chopped up print .
It's #1 on my to do list but there is a line. Family, job, website orders, My project list.
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Old Oct 11, 2011, 06:46 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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Wing

now that we have a fuselage we need a wing
This wing construction method uses no ribs, as a weight saving measure the wing has several tapered spars that give it strength and the airfoil shape we need. The wing is built from the bottom sheeting up by using the pattern from the plans to lay out a 3mm sheet. The pattern will need holes poked in them to locate where the spars start a slight turn. These holes are used to mark the locations.
With the Spar locations transferred from the pattern to the sheeting with a pen. The spars are bonded with polyurethane glue to the bottom sheeting using weights for clamp pressure.
Clamp the straight portion of the spars then bend them to meet the tip marks. not hard to do with a helper.
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Old Oct 11, 2011, 06:48 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
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The tops of the spars are square and will require light sanding to give them a curve so the top sheeting will not have humps on the surface. Using a sanding bar wide enough to bridge between the spars will help to ensure the angles blend between them.
Before you start sanding, mark the spars with a highlighter pen. This will help you keep track of your progress. Once you are finished sanding; place a strip of foam across the spars and check for gaps.
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Old Oct 11, 2011, 06:53 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
4,547 Posts
Cut the top sheeting using the pattern, add about 3/16 inch in chord length to the leading edge to allow for the curve of the wing.
To protect the work surface and to keep from bonding the wing to the table top; use packing tape strips along the edges of the wing. Apply glue to all the spars and the trailing edge.
Have the leading edge shim handy to put under the leading edge and as far around the tip as you can. ip. Bond the sheeting from the trailing edge working forward applying small weights as you go.
Once the sheeting is in place and weighted down, check that the wing tip skins are making contact. To close any gaps small foam wedges can be used. let the panels dry completely.
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Old Oct 11, 2011, 06:55 AM
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Fort Worth, TX USA
Joined Feb 2001
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In order to get the slight curve to the bottom of the wing a relief cut is made from the first spar to the leading edge at the wing root. The leading edge shim is placed under the leading edge during the top sheeting bonding step to raise it higher making the curve needed.
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