Full throttle is the only way to fly! Especially into things like trees, pallets, the ground etc. Nose dive into tera firma was how my first yak got retired. Note to self: pay attention to what you're doing when flying.

Rolling harriers are still out of my reach, though I am getting better at rolling circles go figure.

Ughhh........figured out why I have the vibration. I didn't fix it turns out my rubber bands were not tight enough, and that cause the adaptor to scrape the prop hub. Now it just wiggles on the adaptor

And I'm starting to question the "zero rudder coupling" that this plane is supposed to have. Whenever I use too much rudder, guess what, it rolls and dives!!!

Surely you got more than one prop! Stick a new one on, job sorted.

I don't know what's going on with your coupling? mine has absolutely zero.

No.......I didn't think id need 2 props. And I don't get it. Why does brad give us the crappy thin prop bands?

The stock bands that come with the motors are fair at best, upgrade ones are a million times better. Humm we could always lower the power of the motors

Originally Posted by RCAddict16

No.......I didn't think id need 2 props. And I don't get it. Why does brad give us the crappy thin prop bands?

These foamys get used and abused, flown low and risks taken that you wouldn't with a less crashable plane. This makes the props a consumable item, if your going to fly your Yak a lot your gona need a stock of like ten props never mind two. The prop bands you get are the ones that come with the motor from the supplier, Brad stocks a heavier duty version in packs as these too are consumable items. Get on to Twisted Hobbys and order your self a bunch of props and bands or get hold of some surgical tubing like a lot of people are doing.

Originally Posted by Twisted Realm

The stock bands that come with the motors are fair at best, upgrade ones are a million times better. Humm we could always lower the power of the motors

LOL NO! Sorry if I offended you I'm tired and not thinking about what I'm saying. However, I fixed my problem with a little ingenuity. I put welders on a needle and spread it where the plastic was rubbed away. This should grip the hub a lot better. And nvm about the coupling, I was being stupid and dethrottling in a turn, so I stalled and thought it was coupling

Originally Posted by Aviefly

Get on to Twisted Hobbys and order your self a bunch of props and bands or get hold of some surgical tubing like a lot of people are doing.

Surgical tubing for the win! I went through almost 6" (1/8" at a time) of tubing before I asked on here and someone suggested to put longer screws on the motor hub and use two bands. I'm wasn't using the TH motor at the time.

I believe the thin ones are meant to use both...Im using both thin ones with no problems. It is very difficult to get the second one stretched on though, I like that crochet needle idea.

Originally Posted by RCAddict16

Bwahaahaha I love my CY. Full throttle into a tree and a tiny rip in the wing got the CG issue fixed, the batt. hole is now 2 inches behind the motor lol. Its bc I used hot glue to hold the joints together while the welders dried and I never took the hot glue off haha. This thing flies so awesome, its a pain retrimming every other pack because of heat expansion though. Oh yea and I fixed the vibration. The prop hub has worn off a bit because I used too flexible rubberbands, and it was misaligned on the hub. Not like the prop was at an angle, it would be like if the prop is level with the vertical part of the fuse and it was tilted towards the right or left. Does that make sense?

full throttle into a tree.....are you serious?... and just a tiny rip, thats good.

what happened though? how can you full throttle into a tree? so, when you claimed that you are a very good pilot.....was that a joke?

Originally Posted by RCAddict16

And I'm starting to question the "zero rudder coupling" that this plane is supposed to have. Whenever I use too much rudder, guess what, it rolls and dives!!!

Pretty much all planes will roll and dive under full rudder, it's a normal condition. What zero coupling means is that in ke flight with the proper amount of rudder being used to maintain ke flight that there will be no roll coupling. In other words, take it easy on the rudder, just part of learning how to fly. This is where using a lot of expo on the rudder comes into play, it allows you to finesse the rudder input at low deflection angles without sacrificing the large amounts of deflection needed in post stall flight when just stick banging around. It all just takes practice and patience. As far as props, buy them ten at a time, balance them, and I like to go to home depot and buy the O-rings in the plumbing repair dept for the prop saver. A good source for cheap props and reasonable shipping cost is rcplanebuilder.com.

Originally Posted by jetinteriorguy

Pretty much all planes will roll and dive under full rudder, it's a normal condition. What zero coupling means is that in ke flight with the proper amount of rudder being used to maintain ke flight that there will be no roll coupling. In other words, take it easy on the rudder, just part of learning how to fly. This is where using a lot of expo on the rudder comes into play, it allows you to finesse the rudder input at low deflection angles without sacrificing the large amounts of deflection needed in post stall flight when just stick banging around. It all just takes practice and patience. As far as props, buy them ten at a time, balance them, and I like to go to home depot and buy the O-rings in the plumbing repair dept for the prop saver. A good source for cheap props and reasonable shipping cost is rcplanebuilder.com.

What size O-rings are you getting?

Originally Posted by trx

full throttle into a tree.....are you serious?... and just a tiny rip, thats good.

what happened though? how can you full throttle into a tree? so, when you claimed that you are a very good pilot.....was that a joke?

I was doing KE pylon racing around the trees in my yard.........

Originally Posted by docbrew

What size O-rings are you getting?

I use two (2) #35 which can be found at Lowes in the plumbing department.

JC