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Old Feb 05, 2013, 06:27 AM
I like turtles
Mattfoo83's Avatar
United States, FL, Leesburg
Joined Dec 2012
43 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jim Lee View Post
hammer833,

It must be from old stock, As Airborne models ( that's where I got my Electric powered Super Taiji) shows the old nitro version, But it's been discontinued. I would like to have one of the 50 size nitro powered ones, As I have a Saito 4 stroke that would fit right in it.

I've seen the new Evolution 10 gas engine, but I've never tried to run any of my planes on gas, If Glo fuel keeps getting higher, I may switch over to gas, since they are bringing out small gas powered engines.

J
Its the only way ill go back to running a fuel powered plane. And after seeing the above link ill consider it now.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 09:08 PM
I like turtles
Mattfoo83's Avatar
United States, FL, Leesburg
Joined Dec 2012
43 Posts
Well if all goes as planned ill at least be able to order the kit Tuesday.
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Old Feb 09, 2013, 10:24 PM
scratch-built
Jim Lee's Avatar
United States, WA, Port Orchard
Joined Apr 2007
1,021 Posts
The World Models Super Taiji EP (40

That's great Mattfoo83,

If you get it Tuesday and have some time to work on it, You should have it ready to fly by the weekend.

Have you finalized your set-up?

J
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Old Feb 10, 2013, 12:13 PM
I like turtles
Mattfoo83's Avatar
United States, FL, Leesburg
Joined Dec 2012
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Not at all.
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 03:50 PM
Registered User
United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Nov 2007
128 Posts
Getting on the Super Taiji train. Plane ordered, with Hacker A30-10XL, X-70 speed controller, and Hitec HS-65MG's.

Can anyone give a few details about moving the rudder/elev servos to the rear? I've not done that sort of major surgery before.
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 04:32 PM
Rick
hammer833's Avatar
Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Joined Apr 2007
651 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by Neko View Post
Getting on the Super Taiji train. Plane ordered, with Hacker A30-10XL, X-70 speed controller, and Hitec HS-65MG's.

Can anyone give a few details about moving the rudder/elev servos to the rear? I've not done that sort of major surgery before.
I just cut a hole the size of the servo in the fuse side about a 1/4" from a bulkhead. then I line the inside one the fuse around the hole with 1/4"x1/4" stock glued the the fuse side. Try to glue the 1/4"x1/4 stock to the bulkhead on one side of the hole and the other 3 sides to the fuse sides. Then just install your servo as normal screwing it to the stock. It's easy and not major surgery. Should take about a half hour per servo.

I hope this helps.

Rick
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 04:35 PM
Rick
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Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada
Joined Apr 2007
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Old Feb 15, 2013, 11:38 PM
Registered User
United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Nov 2007
128 Posts
Quote:
Originally Posted by hammer833 View Post
I just cut a hole the size of the servo in the fuse side about a 1/4" from a bulkhead. then I line the inside one the fuse around the hole with 1/4"x1/4" stock glued the the fuse side. Try to glue the 1/4"x1/4 stock to the bulkhead on one side of the hole and the other 3 sides to the fuse sides. Then just install your servo as normal screwing it to the stock. It's easy and not major surgery. Should take about a half hour per servo.

I hope this helps.

Rick
Will do. Thanks!

David
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Old Feb 27, 2013, 11:59 PM
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Nov 2007
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Ok. Got it built. I only moved the rudder servo back and not the elevator servo. CG seems to be good, but there's not a lot of room to move the battery, so the CG is pretty much stuck where it is if one doesn't want to add weight.

In the build: I had a hard time finding the pilot holes for the servo horns. One of the blind nuts for the gear was placed incorrectly. Moving the rudder servo was tough since I ran into the tubing for the standard linkage. That was hard to remove without damaging the surrounding wood. The slots in the plastic wing servo mounts had to be widened to accommodate my servos (JR), or the servo arm ended up in the wrong position. Otherwise, it seems like a nicely built model.

Any tips on the little clips that hold the wings? I find them very difficult to get onto and off the screw. I had to use a needle-nose pliers, and even then it was a struggle. I'd like to be able to remove the wings for transport.

David
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Old Feb 28, 2013, 02:08 AM
scratch-built
Jim Lee's Avatar
United States, WA, Port Orchard
Joined Apr 2007
1,021 Posts
Wing Clips

Neko,

I use a small hemostat scissor to fasten the spring clip. I only take one clip off. I leave the other one on, cuts the frustration in half of trying to get the clips fastened. If you do it that way, Be sure and put the wedge somewhere you won't lose it.

http://www.rcdude.com/servlet/the-20...-Curved/Detail

J
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Old Mar 01, 2013, 12:40 AM
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Joined Apr 2011
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Neko View Post
Any tips on the little clips that hold the wings? I find them very difficult to get onto and off the screw. I had to use a needle-nose pliers, and even then it was a struggle. I'd like to be able to remove the wings for transport.

David
Be careful, the wing tube slot at the end where the clips goes in has two different sizes - rotate the tube & you can tell the difference. Make sure you're using the bigger slot, slip it in rotate the tube to ensure the spring hook catches the head of the screw. Once it's fasten, it's very tight, even for numerous snap rolls.

Adrian
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 03:40 AM
eflynow
Sydney, Australia
Joined Nov 2002
12 Posts
Moving the elevator servo to the tail

When I set up my Super Taiji a year ago, I went to quite a bit of trouble to move the Taiji's elevator servo to the tail, make a joiner for the elevator halves etc. On the final dry run before glueing in the fuzzy hinges for the elvator I realised it wasn't going to work!

On my Taiji, the elevator hinge line has a slight sweep. If I put the tailplane halves (without the elevators) onto the joiner tube, the trailing edges at the tip are about 1/8" behind the trailing edge at the root. It's hard to see because the fin gets in the way of looking along the hinge line. A solid elevator joiner causes all sorts of distortions in the tailplane and elevators when the elevator is moved from the neutral position. Not to mention placing a huge load on the elevator servo.

If you want to move the elevator servo aft, put it inside the rear of fuselage and retain the two pushrods - as outlined on a post early in this thread.

I have no way of knowing whether all Taiji's are have the sweep in the elevator hinge line. If you do consider using a solid elevator joiner, check the hinge line very, very carefully.

In my case the solution was simply to put the rudder servo into the cutout I had made for the elevator servo.
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Old Mar 03, 2013, 11:00 PM
scratch-built
Jim Lee's Avatar
United States, WA, Port Orchard
Joined Apr 2007
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Ah, The joy of being a Beta Tester.

J
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Old Mar 04, 2013, 07:50 PM
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United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Nov 2007
128 Posts
Thanks guys. Very helpful. 4-8 inches of snow predicted here. Looks like I'll have to maiden on skis.
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Old Mar 22, 2013, 05:16 PM
Registered User
United States, IL, Chicago
Joined Nov 2007
128 Posts
Finally got a first flight in on the Taiji. Not bad. The one thing I find a bit off is the elevator. For level flight, I need many clicks of up, to the point that the back edge of the elevator is about 1/8" above the back edge of the horizontal stabilizer.

I would have suspected that my CG is too far forward, but in inverted flight, there is not that much of a tendency to dive, and the plane balances pretty near what the specs say. (I put the elevator servo in the rear.)
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